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Budapest Mini-Trip Report: ❤️ The Opera! The Scenery! The Food! The Catastrophe!

This report is long overdue but here is a short (ha!) trip report about my 5-night solo travels in Budapest from October 6 through October 11.

Getting There:
I had just spent three weeks in Romania and so I flew from Bucharest to Budapest on TAROM Airlines which is the Romanian national airline. It was a very pleasant experience. I've flown TAROM twice now; this flight and they also operated the second leg of my flight to Bucharest from Schiphol Airport. The flight went well and left on time. Just about every bag larger than a small personal bag was gate-checked as it was a small plane with only 18 seats.

Arrival in Budapest:
As soon as I got off the plane, everything went quickly. It was an easy walk through the airport. I headed for the “Nothing into Declare" exit, then walked outside towards the 100E bus, which is an airport bus that heads into the city. There were signs indicating where it was, although I did have to make a quick pit stop along the way.

Soon I was standing in line for the bus outside. I didn't get a ticket since anyone over 65 can ride for free. That was good as I avoided the very long line of travelers inside waiting to buy tickets at the counter. I don't think they realized you can tap and pay when you board. When the bus pulled up and the line started getting on, I was asked for a ticket, but I told him I was a senior and over 65. He smiled and nodded me on board.

The bus was crowded but I managed to get a seat, and we were soon on our way. The ride took about 45 minutes overall. My stop was at the Deák Ferenc tér M station. From there it’s a 15 minute walk to the hotel I booked. I could have switched to the Metro at Deák Ferenc, which would have gotten me close to my hotel but decided against it. It was beautiful outside and I felt like walking, I was glad I decided to do that. I literally gaped as I walked along and was amazed at how beautiful the city was. The buildings were gorgeous with interesting touches of color and decor, and the architecture was just exquisite. There were loads of people out, and I saw lots of shops, cafes, and restaurants.

Eventually I turned onto Andrássy, which is one of the main streets of the downtown area, and loaded with trees, beautiful buildings and really fancy shops like Gucci and Jimmy Choo. The Hungarian State Opera was along the street as well, and only a block or so from my hotel.

Hotel Medos (aka Hotel Medosz):
TexasTravelMom had mentioned this place to me and it looked nice so I booked it (she has not stayed there but booked it for a later trip). The clerks were very friendly and I was soon ensconced in my fourth-floor room. I love that the windows open! The room and bathroom were both quite large. The room had open shelves, a double bed, a small sofa, and a large desk, and the bathroom (with a shower) was quite large, too.

That said, I wound up being in two different rooms because of a wifi issue. My first room could not access the wifi router for some reason. I tried everything, and it worked when I went down to breakfast or sat in the lobby, so I knew it wasn’t my phone. The hotel was very accommodating, however, and moved me to a different room on the seventh floor where the wifi worked fine. It had the same spaciousness; albeit a little bit different configuration but I liked it and it was closer to the elevator.

Overall, I would not hesitate to stay here again. It was in a wonderful location—only a few blocks from the opera, the Oktagon metro station, and there were loads of restaurants, wine bars, and cafes nearby. It was very quiet and the price was quite reasonable—only €93.60 per night, which included a HUGE breakfast. Seriously, their breakfast was amazing. They had two coffee machines, lots of fruit and vegetables, pastries, wonderful breads, hot food, cheeses, eggs served several ways and lots of sausage and dried meat options.

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The Catastrophe:
As I unpacked, I realized I had a problem. When I was waiting for my flight at the Bucharest airport, I had been moving things around because I wanted to make sure I didn't have to check a bag. So I put my purse and moved a few other things around so that all I had was my carry-on and my personal bag. In my rush, I placed my wallet somewhere, and it must have fallen out because when I got to Budapest, I realized it was gone. I tore apart my bags but I couldn't find it.

It wasn't a complete catastrophe as I still had my passport. So all I lost was my driver's license, my health insurance cards, and about six or seven credit cards. I locked the credit cards using my phone and figured there's not a whole lot someone in Romania can do with my driver's license and my health insurance cards. But it was still a pain and I knew I would have to take care of it when I got home. I emailed the Bucharest Airport on the off-chance someone had turned it in, but otherwise, I decided not to let it affect my trip and headed out to explore the city..

Restaurants:
Két Szerecsen: This restaurant, which was fairly close to my hotel, had been mentioned in Time Out, so I headed there. It was wonderful. I had a very tasty dish called Mézes Mustáros Csirkesaláta, which was a salad with slices of chicken and avocado in a honey mustard sauce with bacon and cherry tomatoes. It was so good that I almost licked the plate. I had a glass of rose with it. Both Romania and Hungary have really good rose wines. I've never been much of a rose wine drinker as I usually prefer reds or whites, but I've been drinking a lot of rose since I've been here, and enjoying it immensely.

Goli Budapest: I made a reservation here after I saw it mentioned on the Michelin website. I also read a Facebook post by Cameron Hewitt who raved about it. It was opened several years ago by a chef from Tel Aviv and it specializes in small plates cooked over an open fire. It was amazing. It's a small place but the decor was really cool. I liked it a lot. The menu had been custom printed for me and included a cocktail list. Everything looked so wonderful that my mouth was watering.

The cocktail list was pretty fascinating as well. They had really interesting ingredients. I finally decided to go with the Isfahan Sunrise, which is made from white sun-dried Persian lemon, gin infusion, super lemon juice, and Persian lemon snow. It was wonderful. For my meal, I ordered 3 small plates: pita with homemade Labneh, which was phenomenal; Saged Campfire Potato which was basically a smashed potato that had been flattened out and cooked over fire, topped with spices, tzatziki sauce and olive oil. It was so good that I just wanted to pick it up and cram it all into my mouth. Of course I refrained, but I just couldn't believe how good this food was!

My last dish was entrecote on a stick—beef chunks that had been grilled over open flame, and were so tender they almost melted in my mouth. The flavor was amazing again. I would have loved to have had dessert because I knew that they had Knafeh on the menu, but I was way too full by the time I finished. The bill was very reasonable, and included a service fee.

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Kizmeso:
I stopped here after my night at the opera and had a wonderful meal. It was very close to my hotel and quiet at that time of night. I ordered the Veal Paprikash which was served over Bryndza Dumplings and was fantastic. I loved the taste of the paprikash with the soft curly dumplings. It was really a good combination. The dish was accompanied by pickled cucumbers flavored with sesame oil and sprinkled with sesame seed that was quite tasty. I had a glass of red wine with the meal as well. It was a lovely evening and I really enjoyed the dinner.

Cafe Gerbaud: After I read about this lovely cafe, I added it to my list. It's considered a place that is more for tourists than local residents, but it was so beautiful I couldn't resist. It opened in the 1850s and is quite historic with a really lovely decor. It took me forever to decide on a pastry, but I finally settled on a beautiful cake called the SissI Dessert. It consisted of vanilla sponge cake, soft white chocolate mousse with a rich raspberry sauce inside, and topped with violet jelly and candied violets. The whole thing was just decadent. I had a cappuccino with it but also splurged and got some ice cream, as I'd heard their ice cream was very good. I got a scoop of chocolate, which the server said they are known for. That chocolate ice cream was, without a doubt, the best chocolate ice cream I have ever had (and that includes Graeters from Cincinnati). The food, coupled with the decor, really made it a worthwhile visit and I was glad I stopped here. It was pricey but not overly so.

Bellozzo Pizza: I was delighted to find this wonderful pizza place near my hotel called Bellozzo Oktagon (they have a number of them all over the city—Bellozzo Oktagon was near the Oktagon Metro station by my hotel). It had two sizes of pizza; large and small (the small was a little over 9 inches in diameter) plus pasta dishes and salads. Instead of ordering at a table or a counter, you head for one of the four electronic ordering stations to order your food (there is an English option). Once you’ve decided, you put it in the digital cart and pay for it. It then goes to the kitchen, which is right in front, so you can watch them making the pizzas, which is fun. Up above is an electronic board with your order number on it. It shows the status of your order; “Getting Ready,” “Almost Ready,” and “Ready.” Once it’s ready, your number is placed in a little digital truck, which “drives” over to the “Ready” side. It was really cute and a great idea!

I ordered a Pizza Quattro Formaggi (with Gorgonzola, Pecorino, Grana Padano and mozzarella) that came with fresh arugula sprinkled over the top, and a bottle of water. You can eat there or purchase take-away (there is a bag/box fee for that). The pizza was really good and I was very happy with my choice. It's a great option for solo travelers because you can order a smaller pizza, which is always my issue with other pizza places. I hate having to take leftovers with me and I hate leaving them behind and I simply cannot eat a large pizza by myself.

The Great Market:
The Great Market is a large local market inside a historic building in the city center. It was easy to get there by tram (and once again, free). Most of the stalls on the ground floor had food items: produce, meats, pastries, candies, spices, and alcohol. The second level (a mezzanine floor) has some eating places and lots of tourist gifts and souvenirs.. The basement contains fish, vegetable stalls and some butcher shops.I was looking for a T-shirt for my oldest grandson because he is hard to shop for, and I thought he might like something from there. I really enjoyed it there but it can be overwhelming and after about an hour, I was ready to head out.

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Parliament:
I had a ticket for Parliament for 10 am my second morning there. You can spot it in the distance because it's so huge (but also quite beautiful). As I made my way towards the building, I saw there were about six or seven police standing out in front and a mixture of crowds nearby. I walked up to them and asked what's going on, and they said that Parliament was closed today because there was a session. I was a little annoyed because I was really looking forward to seeing the inside, and I didn't get an email about it. But there was nothing I could do about it.

I checked with the office about a refund and they told me that it would be credited back to my account. They also told me I could check in the morning to see if any tickets were opening up that day. I did try it but got nothing. That said, my time wasn't a total waste. While I was at the office, I noticed the gift shop, so of course I had to check that out. Pretty soon I walked out with several purchases. They had some very interesting items for sale there; albeit a bit pricey.

St. Stephen’s Basilica:
Since I couldn't go to Parliament, I trotted off to St. Stephen's Basilica. This gorgeous cathedral is named for King Stephen, the first king of Hungary who ruled around the end of the 10th century through the beginning of the 11th. Along the way I passed by the Four Seasons Hotel Gresham Palace, which is a lovely and ornate hotel decorated in an Art Nouveau style. I really wanted to go inside, but didn't have the nerve, so I just took a few photos of the outside and kept going. Soon I was at St. Stephen's, and I realized I would have to buy a ticket. There was a long queue of people waiting but I pulled out my phone and within a minute or two I had my ticket and went inside.

The cathedral wasn't the largest I've been in, but it was really amazing. Brilliant colors; gold, reds, blues, and shimmery glimmer popped up all over the place.There are some beautiful paintings in there too, as well as a number of ornate life-size sculptures. One interesting exhibit was displayed in a gold reliquary. It contains the mummified forearm of Stephen and is called the Holy Right Hand. When he was canonized about 50 years after his death, his corpse was exhumed and his right arm was found to be quite fresh, so it was cut off to be preserved. I guess the rest of him wasn't quite so fresh, which is why they left it behind.

Fiumei Uti Sirkert (Fiume Road Cemetery)
On my third day, I planned to go to the Hungarian National Gallery, but I got a little confused and wound up going to the Hungarian History Museum instead. I had a lunch date and didn't really have time to devote to the museum, so instead I headed to an interesting cemetery that TexasTravelMom had told me about (we both like cemeteries). 😊 I took the tram rather than walk the whole way, It was a bit of a distance. I like the tram as you can see some interesting sites as you go along, but I also like walking, so I try to combine the two.

It was nice getting a bit out of the city and wandering around without crowds. And the cemetery was worth a visit—it was quite evocative with many unique monuments and mausoleums. Some of them were very sad, and others were just... interesting. It's an old cemetery and they no longer have internments there, but there are quite a few famous people buried there including many heads of state, along with Zsa Zsa Gabor and her mother.

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Meetup with Mr. E
James and I had talked about meeting up before I even left the states, so once I got there, I WhatsApped him and we arranged to meet at noon at the Opera House. When I got there, he was waiting for me and asked me if I wanted to start walking. I was great with that, so we walked around to some really interesting places. He lives in Budapest and even before he moved here, he'd been coming here for a very long time, so he knows the city quite well. We visited some lovely and interesting places, including the train station, which is really lovely. Then we took the tram over to Buda where we headed to a large market where a lot of the locals shop. The fruits and vegetables I saw were huge and beautiful.

After that, we stopped for lunch at a place that he likes in Buda. It was a nice low-key place with good food and no tourists.. We each had a glass of wine with our lunch (which was very good), and talked for quite a while about many different subjects. James and I may not line up perfectly on politics, but talking to him was such a joy—I loved hearing his perspective and getting caught up in his stories from all the places he’s traveled. Finally, we took the tram back to Pest and he gave me a quick lesson on which trams I should take to go to certain places, which was very helpful. We made our way back to the Oktagon metro station, which is near my hotel and close to where he lives, so we separated there.

The Hungarian State Opera
When I first started planning my trip, I was very excited to see that there was an opera being performed while I was there. As soon as I could, I booked a ticket to see Turandot. It's been a while since I've seen an opera and really missed it. The opera started at 6:30 pm, I started getting ready around 5. I didn't really bring clothes to dress up but I did manage to look presentable (I think). Soon I was walking down Andrássy towards my night at the opera. The opera house was absolutely gorgeous; so beautiful from the outside, but when you walk in, it just shimmered with lights and elegance and excitement.

I could see that there were a lot of out-of-towners there, but most people were quite dressed up, or at least business casual. I did see one woman behind me in a tank top, which I thought was pretty inappropriate, but I certainly wasn't going to say anything. The theatre was just as beautiful as the lobby and I made my way to my seat, which was a good one—13 rows back in the orchestra and close to center stage, so I had a wonderful view of this production. It was worth it. It was an incredible production and I was so impressed by the performance. The music was, of course, fantastic, and the singers were equally impressive—but it was the staging that completely won me over. The set was stunning, the costumes absolutely breathtaking, and under the direction and choreography of Dóra Barta, everything came together beautifully. I was captivated by the entire production, and especially at the end when Calaf sang Nessun Dorma.

Matthias Church (The Church of Our Lady of Buda Castle)
Words cannot describe how I felt about this church. It wasn't a huge church, but the interior was so beautiful. In fact, I might rank it up there as one of the most beautiful churches I've seen. Honestly, I just didn't know where to look as I was so overwhelmed by its lovely interior. It did not have the ornate grandeur of cathedrals and large basilicas. It was just that the colors and designs were so engaging and so lovely that every place you turned, there was something new and beautiful to see. I finally plopped myself down and just stared all around because it was so gorgeous. You could also walk up into the galleys and look out over the church.

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Matthias (con't):The original church was destroyed in the mid-13th century, and the new church was built soon after, most of which survives today. However, it was expanded in the 15th century by Matthias Corvinus, who was the king of Hungary in the 15th century, and named after him. Interestingly, King Matthias came from Romania and was born in Cluj-Napoca. There was some additional restoration to the church. in the late 1800s as well. The roof, which I really admired, especially the tile work, is actually fairly modern and was added around the mid-20th century. Evidently, the original roof burnt down after it was shelled by the Soviets in World War II.

The rest of Buda:
After leaving the church, I walked over to a place called the Fisherman's Bastion, where you can look at the views of the Danube River and at Pest below. There were gorgeous views where I stood. If you wanted to get better ones, you could pay, but I didn't feel like it, plus I didn't want to walk up that high.

After that, I decided to head to Hospital on the Rock, which is a museum that was built prior to World War II to handle injuries and was built under Buda Castle in caverns. It sounded really interesting and I would have liked to have seen it, but when I got all the way there, it turned out that the tours were all booked for the next three hours, and they only do one an hour. So I would have had to have come back at 4:00, and I just didn't feel like it. Since I plan on coming back to Budapest at some point, I figured I would save it for my next trip.

After that, I just continued walking through Buda and enjoying the beauty of this part of the city. At one point, I decided to head up to the Hungarian National Gallery because I really wanted to see some of the paintings. So I walked and walked and walked, mostly uphill, up steps and winding paths. When I finally got almost to the top, I found a bridge that I had to cross that went over the funicular. I tried to make myself go across, but it was so high up I just couldn't do it, even though it looked very sturdy. It was made of brick and certainly wide enough, but it was just freaking me out. So I stopped and turned around and walked back down and just kept walking down and down until I got to the bottom again. But the views going both up and down were so beautiful that I really didn't mind the walk.

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A Happy Ending to the Catastrophe
Soon I was heading back to my hotel where I needed to do some packing as I was moving to the Ibis Airport hotel the next day given that my flight was at 6:20 am. Ugh. But I had a moment of joy when I discovered my wallet!!!!! It turns out my Bagsmart backpack that I used as a personal bag has a hidden zipper in one obscure area which I must have found when I was stuffing things in the bag at the airport but then inconveniently forgot about later. So I had my wallet, and I could unlock all my credit cards and I didn't need to replace my driver's license or medical insurance cards. Hooray!

The next day I wandered around town a little bit more and did some souvenir shopping but eventually made my way to the airport. I took the 100E bus again and it was just as easy as before. It dropped me off at the airport in front of Departures, and I got out and made my way to the ibis hotel.

ibis Styles Budapest Airport
The hotel was okay but not great. The room was small and had some unattractive graphics but it was fine for a one-night airport stay. I don't think I would have wanted to stay longer. That said, breakfast next morning, which was included in the rate I paid (€109), was very good. The best part was it started at 4:00 am, which meant I could have breakfast before I left for the airport. And as a bonus, the walk to the airport from the hotel was a very quick 3-4 minute walk.

I should mention that after I got to the hotel, I received a message from the KLM app, which asked me to check my bag the next day at no cost as the flight was full. This worked out well for me as I had tried to check-in online earlier but couldn’t do it, and was told to check in at the airport. So when I got to the airport I headed to the check-in but was pretty dismayed by the huge lines I saw there. I walked over to an employee standing nearby and told her that I was trying to check my bag and explained about the message.. She immediately thanked me for checking it, and told me to follow her up to a station with no line where I got my bag and myself checked in. I then happily made my way to the proper gate.


I really loved Budapest and I can't wait to go back there. I did not see everything that I wanted to (or even close to it) as I was still a little bit tired from my three weeks in Romania, so I took it somewhat easy. But it was such a beautiful city and had so many wonderful restaurants and beautiful sights that the city could easily become a favorite of mine. I look forward to a return trip in the not-so-far future!

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Loved your report and that you met up with James. I think you meant 15 minute walk vs. 15 hour walk.......

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Great trip report Mardee! Budapest has never been on my to-do list, but it may be now.
My great-grandfather or was it great-great- grandfather was from Buda or was it Pest (long ago stories from family past).

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Mardee, I visited Budapest over 10 years ago and also loved it. Did you converse in Hungarian or English? I found most of the young folks knew English, but older ones did not. Unfortunately Hungarian is a difficult language to learn as it is not Latin based. I am so glad you found your wallet and admire how you absorbed thinking you'd lost it. Putting it in a hidden pocket and then forgetting there is a hidden pocket sounds just like me. When I got home on Sunday from my domestic journey I couldn't find the key to the chest I put important papers & my laptop when I travel. I remembered it was a new spot and I was concerned it might be too 'easy,' but to date I have not found it. I pulled the chest out from the wall and managed to get half the back off so I could access my laptop. Hopefully some day I'll find the key and hopefully won't need things still in the chest which are difficult to access.

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Thanks for your trip report Mardee, I enjoyed reading it. It's probably been just over a decade since I was last there and it deserves a return visit. I love reading your restaurant reviews, I think our tastes are quite similar so I'll be sure to keep your recommendations in mind.

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Mardee, that's quite a walk you took!

Wow, you handled your catastrophe well. I would have been going crazy. So glad you discovered the lost wallet. I assume you used your Apple or Google wallet to pay. How does that work when you lock your cards?

I'm bookmarking this for your wonderful restaurant reviews. Budapest has moved up on my list. Thanks for your report.

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Carol NR, ha ha, yes, I did mean minutes! Good catch and thanks! I've fixed the error.

Barbara N, thanks, and believe me, I was very happy about that!

Horsewoofie, that's very interesting about your ancestors! I think you would love the city. It has such a wonderful vibe to it.

Laurie Beth, oh, all my speaking was in English. 😊 I know no Hungarian. At some point I think I found someone that spoke a little German and we were talking but that was it. I hope you find the key!

Mr. E, the pleasure was all mine!

JC, thank you! I do like really good food and Budapest is definitely a place where you can find that. I hope you do get back there.

Jeanm, thanks so much! Yes I used Apple Wallet to pay for everything. After I locked the cards, I left my Chase Sapphire Preferred card unlocked as I knew I would get an immediate notice if there was a transaction. But locking and unlocking the card really only took a few seconds. I just had to go to the app, which is very easy and quick to do. So I could have unlocked it, made a transaction and then locked it back up within a 5-minute period.