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Budapest -- Liberty Square Counter-Memorial -- A "Must See"

A "must see" in Budapest is the counter-memorial in Liberty Square, only a few blocks from St. Stephen's Church.

In mid-October 2025, my wife and I stumbled upon an unexpected and unheralded site in Budapest – decidedly not part of any tour of Budapest. And not mentioned in the Rick Steve's guide book -- but it needs to be added.

To make a long story short, Hungary has long sought to characterize their country as a victim of the Nazis rather than a collaborator with the Nazis, and has sought to blame the murder of over 600,000 Hungarian Jews on the German Nazis.

In 2014, with no advance notice, Viktor Orban erected a monument in Liberty Square, a small park in central Budapest. (The American Embassy is on another corner of the park.) The monument has symbolism and text that memorializes the “Hungarian victims of the Nazis.” The monument was not well received in the much more liberal Budapest. First, the text was changed to read “the victims of the Nazis”. Second, an organized group of Budapest citizens subsequently erected a make-shift counter-memorial emphasizing that the Hungarian government was not the victim, but instead the perpetrator of the atrocities against Hungarian Jews. The memorial includes text (in many different languages) explaining what the Hungarians actually did during 1944 – 45, and adds photos and personal belonging of Jews that were murdered.

Orban has (for now) allowed this counter-memorial to remain in place.

Posted by
5745 posts

It definitely makes you think. I remember coming across it, not by design, and trying to figure out what was going on.

Posted by
7491 posts

We stayed in a lovely hotel just a few steps from this memorial - was there a couple of weeks ago. We did see numerous tour groups checking things out every day - couldn’t quite tell which parts of it were getting attention though.

Posted by
24585 posts

EDIT I got a little on my soapbox last night, so I edited it down a bit.

If anyone is moved by the people's memorial that potomacdad pointed out, good, you should be and it is worth the time to visit it. Still, generalizations are never very productive when dealing with complex subjects and generalizing that “Hungarians” do this or that will never hit the mark with any fairness. The WWII Hungarian government should be condemned for their actions and beliefs; but that’s a different subject.

I love the strength and integrity and simplicity in the people's memorial. Nothing planned by an architect could have more power. I was there when it first began to be formed and I respect the society that maintains it and keeps it alive. No vandalism from the opposition.

You said, “for now” Orban has allowed tge peoples memorial to remain. “For now,” would be going on 10 years so far; so be fair the government has condoned it through their silence on the subject. Worth thinking about.

The other, the monument, built by the government, simply says; “1944 In Memory of the Victims,” 1944 being the year that the Nazi’s took control of the government in Hungary. So, the government monument was not intended to address any other issue than Nazi occupation and those that suffered as a result. Were any innocent Hungarian citizens victims? If the answer is YES, should society be afraid to make the statement? Most of the history of post 1944 is documented in the House of Terror Museum and you will find there were Hungarians tgat neither supported the Hungarian or the Nazi governments and died in opposition; they were victims. They were persecuted, sent to die in forced labor camps, conscripted into the military, had their lives torn apart. Consider if the US had a president that was disgraceful and that you disagreed with that did terrible things, would it be possible for you to be a victim of that?

But the government monument is indeed terrible from my point of view. Ugly as heck, constructed in the dark of the night, and so vague in its meaning that it begs for controversy. But do note that the same people that were generalized in your post as wanting to blame someone else are the ones responsible for the people's memorial. They protect it now, and allow it to remain so there is no unified Hungarian voice hiding past sins.

Looking towards the positive, today, Hungary is tied with Italy as the safest and most prosperous country in Europe for Jewish to live in. I live across the street from an orthodox synagogue and watch the daily carefree coming and goings of the congregation. I walk down the street, the Stolpersteines remain undisturbed, the boundaries of the ghetto are set into the walkways so you cannot enter without a reference to the past. This country is messed up as much as any country, just in different ways. Its been interesting sitting outside looking in at how they deal with things. If you are interested in the subject it is so much a part of the lifeblood of Budapest that to begin to understand this place you need to read the history and visit a number of other monuments and locations where that history played out. I can share what is significant for me if anyone is interested.

The OP assisted me with some clarifications. Thank you.