Budapest ..... again, and elsewhere.

Happy trails, Mr E, may all your connections be seamless. And congrats on the coming grand baby, they are the best🥰.

So many things to celebrate, congratulations!

I promised you boring.

Uber on time. Driver fascinated with where I am going. Wanted my email so we could discuss more.

Carryon and personal item only so skipped the counter and went to security. No weight limit on Delta, but the KLM connection, yes and I am a 1 25 kg over. I've already sorted 1 25 kg to go in my cargo pants if necessary, buy doubt it will be.

No boarding pass check, just ID. TSA Guard thanked me by name and said have a good flight.

SAT PreCheck shoes on, laptop in bag, liquids in bag. Went through as fast as I could walk.

Delta keeps sending me text updates on the incoming flight which is on time. The app even has a flight map so you can track progress.

Beer and quesadilla at the Fruteria next to the gate not bad.

Love reading your advice! I want your travel schedule!!!

Well, boarded 15 min late. I was in the last group and told bins were full and I had to check my carryon. I explained it was an international connection and she let me pass. Got one of the 3 slots left in plane cause the bins were full of purses and personal item that don't fit under the seats. Someone should pay the flight attendants to check and pay them a bonus of $10 per rejected bag.

Now told the engine starter is broken, but they have a workaround. Seriously? What that even mean? Charlie Chaplin with a Model T crank?. 10 min past departure time now. I have a 3 hour layover so not stressed.

Flight left 30 min late, arrived 10 min late.

Flight to AMS on Delta did scrum boarding. I am 6 feet tall, in Basic Economy and have no issue with the knee space.

Last time I arrived in AMS, just a few months ago, they let US passports go through the automated line. No more. Back to the old chaos.

Mister E, I hope you have a great trip and congratulations on your children's life events. My husband and I just returned form Budapest and loved it. My husband kept on asking me "who is this Mister E and TexasTravelmom you keep talking about?" I used all your travel tips which came in very handy and made our trip even more special. I can see why both of your love it so much. We definitely planning on returning.

itsv, this made me laugh. Thank you and I am glad you had a wonderful time! Hope the leg is better, though! And maybe some day we’ll be there at the same time. :)

itsv: I'm so glad you enjoyed Budapest! I agree, Mister É and TexasTravelmom have provided this forum with great information! They have helped make my trips better.

Congratulations Mr E. On your new grandbaby’s impending arrival. Enjoy your mini vacation with your son too.
Looks like you have a full schedule for the coming months, all with happy events.
If possible, do report a little about Malta.

Malta, sure.

To finish this one to this point, Delta's food was terrible and little. KLM was no better and no more. Then KLM on the last leg welcomed everyone to BUCHAREST twice and in two languages. Delta's flight attendants were really terrible. KLM's were better but didn't know where they were.

The taxi from the airport was 12.500 forints. I remember when it was 5.000. Town is packed with tourists, maybe 1/4th are here for a football match tonight. Weather is perfect.

Watching that football match now Mr. E. They are in overtime.

Barbara, a friend told me there was a street fight last night, not too far from where I stay. Two Soccer gangs. Police had to come. I spent the match in the bar under the reflecting pool down by Deak Ferenc ter and it was pretty laid back and relaxed.

I took a short walk to see the building one fo the RS people was going to be staying in. As i walked down Paulay Ede utca something came to mind as I passed a couple of open courtyard doors ..... cold blasts of air. Today it will hit 82F, but these old buildings with the meter thick walls do keep out the heat ... or more precisely hold in the evening temperatures well into the day. Where i am staying the inside is a bit cool, despite the AC not being on. I suspect at best the buildings hold the average for the day ... so 65 to 70F more or less.

Got this in my email today. Things to do in Budapest this summer https://1drv.ms/b/s!Ai7Zk-szxfTJi5VVPLX66a1zdTZuGw

No shortage of things to do. Some day I will be there in spring or summer.

My continuing saga.

Tonight while sitting in a local sidewalk cafe I was reminded of the discussions about the current European apparel; so I watched. First, I sort of reject the topic at the start because it includes "current European" and I think while you could find some common world wide trends, there is not much in common between Paris and Tirana other than they are both capital cities.

But here, in Budapest, shorts are as common as pants, moreso among ladies under 30, less so with older Hungarian gentlemen; but still common. https://1drv.ms/i/s!Ai7Zk-szxfTJi5VSFtDJzk1e9V4Udg?e=FyfOA3

Sneakers are universal and probably more than 50% of what is being worn by all, but those over 50; and even at that age, many. I have seen sneakers with long skirts slit half way up to ..... well you know, and 6" heals with shorts more than once.

The European trust fund brats on weekend holiday in Budapest tend to be the worst dressd, while the local ladies, of all ages, the best or at least the most exotically dressed.

Older American couples are easy to spot, as they are the most conservatively dressed. That is dressed in accordance with the old guidance on how to "blend in" in Europe. Older British couples also easy to spot for their total lack of care in dress.

Baseball caps not terribly common, but you will see a few in every 100 or so people. Hats, a bit less common other than Spanish ladies for some reason.

Exclude the European trust fund brats and the dress is not much different that what I would see at home in the US, but maybe a tad more stylish.

I saw people gathered to enter the Liszt Academy for a performance. Without exception they were dressed for a special night out; suits (or at least sports coats), very nice, mostly long, dresses. But they were also over 40 for the most part.

For those worried about pickpockets, I am sure they are here, but in 20 years I have never met or heard of a victim. Still, I am a little cautious and to that end I like my cargo pants. My deep zippered pocket will be the second choice for the pickpocket, the first choice being the american standing next to me with the walllet in his back pocket. The cargo pants are some nylon quick dry off brand purchased on Amazon for about $30. I can pack four of these for the same weight as one pair of jeans and they fit right in with what is being worn here. That and my unit has a washer with a spin/condesnsor dryer which means it really doesnt dry, so the quick dry ensures by morning they are ready.

Christy, I went to Pörc & Prézli Étterem with a friend my first night in town. I didnt have a reservation and they first told us no. I looked sad and they relented. The place was almost empty when we sat down, 15 minutes later every table was full. They were right but they took care of us anyway. You mentioned the service. Christy, you could not have been more correct. My friend had never eaten Hungarian and the waitress took the time to explain everything. What great people they were. Food was excellent too. I will be back.

Wow, you’re quite the traveler!

Enjoy your time celebrating your son’s birthday, and congrats to your daughter, and on becoming a grandfather.

Wishing you a safe and wonderful trip to all the places you’re traveling to.

I enjoy reading your reports, thanks!

Okay, a day in the life that a tourist might get some value out of:

Woke early, put laundry in washer (4 hour cycle) ate breakfast at Lions Locker and visited with the family a bit. Then walked 5 to 10 min to Deak Fernec ter Metro Station and got my Month TravelCard.

Then on the M3 line to Nyugati Station and got a coffee at McDonalds, then a brief walk to an Asian Market for Fish Sauce and Thai Peppers. Then back on the M3 back to Deak Fernec ter escorting a lost tourist to the M2 line platform in the Keleti Station direction before climbing the stairs to the M1 line. By the way the M3 stations are all renovated, the rolling stock is refurbished and its all beautiful. Got off the M1 at the Oktogon then a short walk to an outside produce market at one of the old market halls for veggies. Then a longer walk to my favorite meat market in another old market hall on Dob utca. Then 5 to 10 min to the Grocery near where I stay for beer and coke and water. Then 2 min home to dump everything before another 4 min walk to an outside cafe near the Opreretta Theater for lunch and a beer. Ate meat filled strudel. Total time 3.5 hours of grocery shopping. Now going to get sore feet attended to.

Mister É, I am delighted to hear you loved Pörc & Prézli Étterem! Yay!!
You've provided wonderful assistance all these years. I'm so glad I got to share something new with you. =)

Christy, your recommendation proved a point. Often living or spending too much time in a location works against being a good source of Tourism information. We get complacient and sort of lose track of what first time people might enjoy and we get into ruts and dont try enough new things. In some ways the advice from a 2 time visitor could be better than someone with a long track record. You were spot on wiht this one. I walked past it 100 times but I knew of my regular places a little further up the street so never stopped. Thank you again

Hope you have a GREAT time. You deserve it.

ronjo, thank you. I am at a Rose Wine Festival in City Park. About $8 to get in which comes with a tasting glass. Then you buy each drink for 90 cents to about $1.25 each. 2 booths down, 22 left to try. I will sleep on the M1 going home.

One of the nice things about Budapest is that the resources for enjoyment are still developing and expanding.

To compare, in Prague everyone flocks to Old Town and it has become dense with tourists. I am certain there is plenty outside of the district, but draw doesn't seem to be developing.

Budapest originally had 3 or 4 centers of tourism and as they have developed things began spreading out until those zones became connected and as a result tourist density lessens a bit.

I think of this as I sit drinking wine in a newly developed street that extends off Andrassy. A year ago, not much, today among my favorite places. It can happen in Pest because every street is rich with character and architecture and just sits waiting on investment.

Okay, I come here often enough and stay long enough where trip reports seem a bit redundant. Spending too much time in a location may make you less than ideal for providing advice beyond functional directions. But I have had a few interesting days’ worth chronicling.

19th August. I have a friend, an expat who has lived in Budapest for about 7 years who had family visiting from the UK (sister and two teenage nephews) and asked if I would be interested in joining her and the family at the Lukacs Bath House in Buda. Sure. Never been why not. She lives not too far and goes a lot and knows it very well, so the guided experience would be worth the effort. Arrived about 1pm. As Tom points out, this is a bit of a maze on at least 3 levels. There are a number of indoor pools of varying temperatures, steam and dry saunas. Outside there is one courtyard that is full wall to wall with a pool for recreation and another courtyard, a level up, somehow, with a lap pool. We had a blast for a bit more than 3 hours. Don’t recall hearing any English while I was there. The co-ed locker room was also interesting.

Then a few stops on a tram to Obuda where the friend lives. First a few drinks with the family at her flat then off to a 24-hour Hungarian restaurant for dinner and a few more drinks. Took a taxi home given the time when I left.

20th August. This is the day that St. Stephen, Hungarian king and patron saint of Hungary is celebrated. The biggest holiday in the Catholic republic of Hungary. The day started a bit late thanks to the night before, but by 2pm I was in a basement sports pub to see two British teams that I knew nothing about play in a football match. Interesting. You book a table and tell them the match and they put you in a location in the pub where that particular match is showing. Again, the UK relatives from the day before. Our team won 4 – Nill. Whatever a “nill” is.

Then off to a construction site where a renovation of a 130-year-old building is ongoing to accommodate a new business (my expat friends business). I am sort of in the construction business, so I was fascinated to see how it was being handled. That took about 2 hours.

Then to an “American” restaurant that sold anything but American food. But the schnitzel was pretty good. Someday the Austrians need to learn how to do a chicken fried steak the right way. Wont name the place, cause can not recommend the place.

Then we walked to Parliament.

The NYE fireworks show in Sydney harbor is said to be the best in the world. I saw it about 5 years ago, and I can say that I believe it. Spectacular.

But what I saw tonight over the Danube was at least technically equal if not better, and when you include the narration and the music, I think it is a better overall experience. I was speechless before it was over. It ended with drones. You could only see one white light on each of a least 50 as, above the Parliament they formed first an angel, then the crown of Hungary and then a three-dimensional rotating cross that had to have been 200 feet tall. It is a religious holiday after all.

What a great weekend, Mr E. Love the old school Catholic patron saint thing. Almost all countries, all professions have a patron saint. I had to look up Hungarys saint Stephen vs the Saint Stephen in Vienna. Two different saints altogether, as I thought it must be.

The local guy has is hand on display in the Basilica. Today they brought it out in a procession. 😳

Here is the pregame drone show and the start of the fireworks show. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=-HEASbu0rBw

Since I started this, I will stick with it a bit. I've been here a few weeks and there were a few days when the high temp was about 70F and a few days above 90F. But I think on average 85 maybe. I mean, for the high. Just plan a museum for 2 to 5 pm and otherwise it's below 80F, sometimes significantly. Anf this is fairly typical for past July/ August visits. But I will say the St Stephen's celebrations make the heat worth taking.

And the real name of Hungary is: Magyarország. Which explains why we call it Hungary.

Thank you, Mister E for including the link. I thoroughly enjoyed the show. I love fireworks and especially in such a beautiful setting.

I've seen a lot in my young life, (65), but these were at the top.

I spent the better part of the day with my expat friend, to be further reminded and to witness that there is a huge difference between living someplace, if only for a few years, and visiting a place multiple times a year for decades. Who could have known you could cut through the lower level of the Spar Grocery Market to reach the Nyugati Underground..... Oh, and if you just want to see something out of another world do visit the Nyugati Underground.

Also spent some time trying to assist another expat (I guess third month in the city) straighten out an accout with Vodaphone. I need to get a local account too, but todays exercise convinced me Vodaphone will be my last choice.

Another interesting place to sit for the ambiance, the view, wine/drink/beer is the outside W Lounge at the Budapest W Hotel across the street from the Opera House. You will feel you are in Budaoest in a way that is special and rare. The wine list and the beer options are poor for such an upscale place, but the experience and the service make up for it. Warning, they sell $1.75 (the going out of tourist zone bar price for a .33L draft beer) beer for about $7.

Also, another zone that has really turned into a great venue, especially evening for dinner or drinks is Hajós utca which is the mostly pedestrian street off Andrassy ut on the right side of the opera house. Just past the opera there are a large number of restaurants and bars with outside seating. SOPHIES has great Italian. Across is an Asian sushi house, also pretty good. About a block off Hajós on Ő utca is Sky Massage if you wore out your feet and need them repaired, and a bit further up is the Hard Rock hotel with an interesting rooftop bar.

Interesting day. They are ready to close Andrassy ut in preparation of a marathon tomorrow as part of the World Athletics Championship in town.

I was having breakfast outside at Stika a few days ago and someone sat behind me. I didn't look but I heard him ordering .... a SIX egg omelet with about a pound of meat in it. Then I heard a voice, "you're an aggie" so I turned around and this guy was freaking huge, tall. Like a gladiator. Was in town throwing javelin for the competition.

Then, today, between where I am staying and the W Hotel is a dance studio that has existed at least 15 years, and apparently they are using the studio as part of an action movie being filmed in town. Great old building. Lots of movies being filmed here. I got caught up in a street scene full of zombies earlier this year.

But now, I sit with my $7 beer.

"You're an Aggie" Love it!

Your observations are fantastic, thank you so much! We have less than 30 days now. See you soon!

An Aggie, and we both know how he knew.

Someone will be walking from the Casati Hotel to Kadarka, so, the tour

On your right the Uj (new) theater. Great architecture and history worth googling. Left is the new W Hotel. Also great history worth a google. Ahead, on right, in the brick building is the before mentioned dance studio. Walk past the front at night and sometimes you can hear the music and see the dancing through the windows.

Turn right up Vasvari Pal utca and on the right is a super good Spanish restaurant. On the left is Lions Locker a great family owned breakfast place. Opposite side a but further up is a rather unimpressive yellow building. If I am home, my door is open. Further up, opposite side is an interesting religious school with a Synagogue in the courtyard. Across from that is where you can get your laundry and dry cleaning done (duck when you go through the door). Next on the left at the end of the street is Kadarka. Total walk, maybe 250m.

This deserves a new thread, but ....

I wandered into Kadarka about 15 years ago. The owner helped me out with a few bottles of wine, glasses, cork screw .... to go.

In the early years 2 weeks, twice a year .... then 3 trips a year and then sometimes 4. All the staff knows me by name, even the new ones which means they were instructed by the older.

Do you have any idea what it means to sit down, "welcome back to Budapest James". They don't know about RS forum and they have no idea how many I sent to them and to be honest the business is so good, they don't need my help. Just good people being good.

I get in ruts and miss a lot. Five years ago Arany János u wasnt much. Now it's a pretty sweet walk. Bring an appetite as great restaurants and nice bars. A better clientele than Dustrict VII.

I now have PIlates on Tuesday and Thursday in a magnificent old building near Nyugati Station, and Hungarian lessons on Monday and Wednesday in another lovely old building in District V near a comfortable pre-class bar.

My husband and I are two of those who went to Kadarka, based on your suggestion. We also went to that restaurant with the teapot chandelier--can't remember the name, though. I think it was a Jewish restaurant? We enjoyed it and appreciated all your tips and suggestions.

Thank you BB

When the weather is good here, like today, it is indescribably good.

We went to the Lion’s Locker while we were in the city, great place as promised by Mr E.
And our trip WAS for the World Athletics Championships so your story about meeting a gladiator javelin competitor made me smile! My sons and I are huge track and field fans. I caught a part of the marathon and noted the many cranky people upset that they couldn’t cross the street. It happens here in Nebraska when the Lincoln marathon goes on also and I just wave as I run by!
We saw a few athletes out and about in the city and loved it! The competition itself was awesome - Budapest did a great job with the new stadium and their public transport system is impressive. After the competition on Saturday when the pole vault, 4x100 relay and other amazing events took place, about 35,000 fans left the stadium at the same time so the metro and buses were a little overwhelmed that night. We just walked the 3 miles back to our flat because the trains were so packed. But stopping every mile or so for donor kebab pita or Chinese dumplings and a beer made it more like a food tour walk :)

Part of the crankieness may be because it seems like once a month they close Andrassy ut for something. But, no fret. You take tgr metro to one end or the other and cross.

Happy you enjoyed the visit. Your favorite restaurant?

On Vaci utca, the big tourist pedestrian street which originally served the wives off Soviet leaders with western products and fashion there is a souvineer shop called Memories. Best of all of them. Mostly real Hungarisn crafts, art, etc. The only place I know where you can buy a gömböc.

For a little historical context, here is another souvineer shop called "Aero" but only because the sign use to say Aeroflot and you will also find the first McDonalds behind the Iron Curtain. Despite the tourist nature you will find some nice local shops on Vaci, snd its worth the walk.

We didn't really have a favorite restaurant exactly, but loved the quick Greek and Turkish spots that we found by walking up and down Terez/Erzsebet Korut near our VRBO. For the most part we followed locals and ate outside. Ate at Laa Zolino Doner & Pizza and Istanbul Torok Etterem for kebab and pita more than once! We also had a few Hungarian snacks like the chimney cakes and some sausages. I made a point to seek out a "ritzy" restaurant and made reservations in advance. I found Rumour, a Michelin Star restaurant, for a "chef's tasting" menu since we have never done that before and it was much less pricy than in the US. Each of the 9 amazing courses were accompanied by a Hungarian wine then tea at the end. That was really fun, and very different from eating at a plastic table on the sidewalk with paper plates and canned beer (Kobanyai was my fave) for the Turkish kebab!
Went to Cosy Cafe for brunch a couple times and the Lion's Locker.
Cannot say I had a bad meal there, even the chicken sandwich at the fancy first McDonalds in Hungary in the old railway station tasted better than back home. Must be the ambiance! Plus the sandwich was called the "Ranch Rebecca" and my name is Rebecca so I had to have that! :)

"Can yoi recommend some restaurants popular with locals"

"Sure, Burger King, KFC, McDonalds and TGI Fridays".

My pilates class is in an Eiffel designed apartment block, across the street from the Eiffel designed railway station.

To get to class I take the M1 to the 4/6 tram to Nyugati then through the underground to the Vaci ut exit. Vaci ut is NOT Vaci utca. The Nyugati underground is unique. Shops, food vendors, a florist and today I discovered the closest thing in town to a hidden bar.

Oh, except for the W Hotels hidden bar.

Okay, Tudtam én Főzdebár is the small previously mentioned bar behind the Opera. I like it, no, I love the kids that run it. But despite all that's good, it needs business. So. Before the Opera it's good. Before or after the Opera House tour. When walking lower Andrassy ut. I promise you leave with a sweet memory.

Ok, I think I have enough nights in Oct. to give it a try. 🤣 But either you are going to have to quit talking about new and wonderful things, or I am going to have to quit reading them - otherwise I will have to add a week to my already scheduled time…..

Yeah, what Texas Travelmom said!!

Fireworks were terrific. Are they scheduled for other events? Would love to attend Will be in Budapest Oct 5 -8

Well, there is definitely the making if a few good parties. https://community.ricksteves.com/travel-forum/hungary/in-hungary-august-september-october

Always up for a good party…. 🤣 Especially with good forum people.

TTM for you, Cortile Adults Only Hotel Rooftop Bar and Party Pool

Sheriff, tgey do fireworks at New Year, which seems to be getting better each year, but nothing like St Stephen's Day. And I think there may be some 12 October, but not sure.

I say to look into courtyards. https://maps.app.goo.gl/PB3LgaFmHr3ADMec6

Extends between the yet to be renovated ends of Nagymezo u. and Hajos u. Very much worth the visit.

Today I went to a burger place that is extremely popular with locals. I picked today because I walked past and there was no line.

I got the double meat bacon cheese burger, fries and a locally bottled soft drink.

The burger is cooked over a flame and sufficiently greasy. The cheese as it melted became very much Velvita in nature. The bacon was typical European bacon ... that is undercooked, not crispy, uncured pig something or another.

All in all very rewarding. I will probably return.

No one asked for the name 🤣

Here is another side trip if you are just out wandering after dark. Board the M2 and go to the Keleti train station. Get off, go up the escalator to the sublevel just below the front of the station. Look up. This view, lit up at night is one that will stick in most memories. https://storage.googleapis.com/welove-media/e5/keleti_bodis-krisztian_20150414.inbox780x585.jpg

Well I wasn’t going to ask because I figured you would say McDonalds….. but it did make me think I need a stop at Zing Burger next time. Keleti at night….. I have also not yet made it to see Nyugati.

WRONG. Of course the most popular burger in Budapest isn't McDonslds. That's laughable! It's Burger King!

The Nyugati underground is a hoot. I'm there twice a week now on my way to Pilates. Love it. But you do need to visit the Nyugati McDonalds, then walk through the station to the mall.

Today, I spent with an expat friend shopping for construction materials. OBI is the local Home Depot and a visit to Ikea. I ended up in amazing new places. This city, the old architecture, just goes on forever with sweet little renovated oasis' mixed among the decay.

Bring friends and have a private party (very few customers), with great views of the Drechsler-palota and the Opera, good wine beer, full bar..
https://maps.app.goo.gl/n4WjK4aUtC5sXHnY9

I did see that view of Keleti, but not at night.

This has to be the most beautiful city in Europe.

Looks like another great wine bar practically on my doorstep while I’m at K&K hotel opera Budapest Oct 26-31. Thanks again Mr E!

It's really a quiet place. Tonight it will be an art gallery too. Nice stuff they are hanging. Next door is a traditional wine bar, so you can't do too wrong.

Unfortunately I miss you. My trip to the States for the second half of this year is 26 October till 14 November.

Oh no, I was looking forward to meeting you at your favorite watering hole (starts with Ka…. sorry I have it written up in notes I can’t get to now)! Damn.

Kadarka Wine Bar

My flight is at 6am on the 27th, so, I will see you jet lagged on the 26th

Kadarka; it came back to me. Ah well, l will enjoy a glass in your honor.

BTW, my husband is class of ‘71, in the Corp. I went to A&M on many weekends😉.

Whoop. Working on Muster here. Me '79, son 12 Squadron 12, daughter 19. See you on the 26th. Taxi comes at 3am, just make sure I'm in it.

This is interesting

https://dailynewshungary.com/value-preservation-interactive-map-of-budapests-oldest-sites/

Note to self: Trams 2, 2B and 23 all run the riverfront in District V ...... but once they pass the Market Hall they all take different paths.

This morning I got a guided walk through a part of Obuda.

I had seen Aquincum but had not Flórian tér and Thermae Maiores, but most interesting part of which are exposed in a long pedestrian passage under a highway. Odd thing to find. https://welovebudapest.com/en/toplist/roman-budapest-6-ancient-sites-in-our-modern-city

The next stop was Obuda Piac Market. As much for sale as the ground floor of the great market hall. But 100% local customers. Not a glorious old 19th century building, but a fascinating stop. https://foursquare.com/v/%C3%B3budai-piac/4c2d80f275579521ba775d83/photos

And while it will not be open until November, the Obuda Christmas Market is worth the effort.

From Pest 1 or 1A tram is probably the easiest.