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9 August: Sub-Carpathians from Budapest

A short holiday in a small city in the Carpathian Mountains. More correctly stated I think is the Sub-Carpathians or Trans-Carpathians.

The city is about a 5-hour drive east of Budapest. The goal is some sightseeing … and to dump some cash in the local economy. I am posting now so I can build on the post during the trip. I do better with daily reports than writing when I get home; but I am no good at pecking on cell phones, so this alleviates some of the pecking.

PREP:
Bought the mandated medical travel insurance and I am brushing up on what little Hungarian language (Magyarország) I can fumble through as I presume English will not be as common as it is in Budapest. Double checked the Air Alert app on both phones and made sure the region was set correctly. Luggage is a backpack.

If all goes well, maybe in the Fall, I will push a bit deeper in and find a spot for fishing.

DAY ONE - THE PLAN

Morning shared transfer. Route: https://maps.app.goo.gl/a3X9wm1nfQHA5UBZ7 | Afternoon a guided short walking tour of the old part of the city: https://youtu.be/vmmHm5dpuBE?si=xUpDUxRQZoRFkWBN | The hotel is The Old Continent Hotel in the old part of the city. https://youtu.be/M_XRHobOX9g?si=PaVRlkDD3VILEFRD

HOW IT WENT

A good 98F day for a drive. The transfer service arrived on time. A massive MB Sprint. Sears at least a dozen. I was first onboard so I got the front seat. Nice view. The driver played the pre-flight recording in English. Seatbelts, stops, emergencies, etc. Nicely done. The van has WiFi. Thats nice.

Our next stop was the airport for 5 more passengers, then the highway. Nothing worse than a US highway and some as good as an Interstate.

After about 3 hourss, one break stop of about 20 minutes and back on the way. Landscape is just Hungarian farmland.

Hungarian border control did the whole EES photo and fingerprint thing on the non-EU people in the van. I was exempt because I am resident. Completing the Hungary border control we drove forward to the next one. They were pretty efficient. They didnt check the insurance, buying had it just to be sure. No issues. Total time was 40 minutes. But the driver knew the system and routine and I think we went around the confused people.

My Telekom and TMobile both have service here. But I'm using the WiFi.

Now to Uzhhorod. Ooops, just realized the others are going to the train station in Mukachevo. Detour. But the road from the border runs straight and long towards the Mukachevo Castle far off in the distance sitting on a hill below the mountains. An amazing view and you realize why it was built there. Worth the detour for the sight.

The road from Mukachevo to Uzhhorod is lined with small communities. Sweet, classic, old but clean with artistic detail in every architectural opportunity. This could be middle class Hungary or Italy or France Interpreted in a different language.

Checked into the hotel, went to the bar and ordered a beer. The bartender said I should try tge local palinka. I agreed, he said come back in the evening for something special. An hour later the guide was with me and we walked the old town and the castle. I researched this, but what i found exceeded my expectations. It's a lovely city. Very excellent guide too. I'll post contact details later.

After the tour I was too tired to deal with language issues so I ate in the hotel restaurant. Shocked again, its exceptionally good. I mean really good. Then the bartender brought me a glass of the cherry palinka that his grandmother makes. Wow! The kindness from nowhere... And it was amazing. The eAlert did its thing during dinner. No one paid attention. Lasted about 20 minutes.

The hotel? That video above is very accurate. I chose well. I have a balcony to the courtyard on the 4th, top, floor. Excellent start to the trip.

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DAY TWO - THE PLAN

Day trip to Nevtske Castle: https://youtu.be/0Dr0ipFZciE?si=igz32Rfrv3DFDFpM, | then on to the village of Lumshory for the mineral baths. Outside on the riverbank they have large cast-iron cauldrons full of mineral water that is heated by a wood fire underneath. You boil for a few minutes then you dive in the cold river; then repeat. Sounds like fun and an interesting way to make new friends (?): https://youtu.be/CDcCs3RYAjU?si=tmJ27-S7k1VP0eG6. Route: https://maps.app.goo.gl/A2NZdHw5CJ31SMAV8

HOW IT WENT

The guide came to the hotel at 09:30 and we started the tour. I think we took the back roads to Lumshory, but a beautiful drive through wonderful towns and villages. For people expecting scenes out of some stereotypical depiction of depressing Eastern European existence, its not here. If you are expecting WWII movie depections of Europe at war, its not here. This is young, healthy, vibrant; bright colors and families, but with limited means and a dark cloud on the eastern horizon.

The baths were perfect. I will post some pictures maybe some will enjoy. A fun experience in a cast-iron cooking pot over a wood fire followed by a dip in very cold river water ... repeat. I could spend the day there. Even had a waitress bringing beer.

Lunch was a local place owned by Rusyn- Lemko. Among the famous Rusyn- Lemko was Andrej Warhola.

Then to Nevtske Castle with beautiful views of the area.

The guide had me back to the hotel at 15:30 which was about right for this old guy.

One of the most unexpected things today was the construction. Housing, retail and hotels going up all over the region.

I came here expecting a 7.5, so far its a 10.

I ended the day in the hotel bar. Sitting nearby is a somewhat well known American former politician, current paid talking head on news shows and blogger. Can't imagine why he's here. Probably for the baths. Most of the guests in tge hotel are well to do (judging by dress) Slavic language speakers.

There are very nice 4 and 5 star resort hotels, in the forests outside of the city, but i chose this one because for this trip i wanted to see the city.

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DAY THREE - THE PLAN

Another Day Trip. The first stop is Palanok Castle: https://youtu.be/xRAdErAYbV8?si=siAEE-BfQdAK-bnE. | Then St. Miklos “Castle” which is more of a fortified estate house: https://youtu.be/8D_cs2YJhjc?si=7XaAN9KOh4Nb8bdv. | Not far from St. Miklos I have spotted an Armenian restaurant. The guide may be forced to stop for lunch. https://maps.app.goo.gl/q9tNzhHafGbMsRFw9 . | The third stop is the Schönborn Palace. https://youtu.be/YvmbZMavVyE?si=omX8pIpxAI7xJh-7 Route: https://maps.app.goo.gl/1X947yNL5BXRtz6J6.

HOW IT WENT

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DAY FOUR - THE PLAN

Unplanned. I might just use the time looking around town. Both the Philharmonic Theater, originally the 19th century synagogue of the city, and the Performing Arts theater are doing tours to raise money for relief programs so that might also be an option. There are some good-looking restaurants in town, so maybe I will use the day to eat my way across the city.

HOW IT WENT

DAY FIVE - THE PLAN

A late morning door to door shared transfer back to Budapest. I should be home by 18:00.

HOW IT WENT

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I expect other readers will also be curious what country this is, as your post doesn't mention that it's Ukraine, and while I think my knowledge of European geography is pretty good I had to google these towns to figure that out.

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RESOURCES

Local insurance required for entry.
https://VisitUkraine.today.

To arrange the tours i used a travel agency. The tours are their stock tours but I think they will do most anything of interest. I modified the day 2 tour to ensure I could participate in the baths, not just see them.

Kamilla (contact name)
[email protected]
https://prokarpaty-tour.info/uk/

To reach Uzhhorod from Budapest i used
H2O Transport
https://www.h2o.net.ua/
WhatsApp +380 66 008 2999.

Hotel is Hotel Old Continent
https://www.hotel-oldcontinent.com/en/

Air Alert
https://visitukraine.today/blog/143/air-alert-app-that-notifies-about-danger-in-certain-region-in-your-smartphone?srsltid=AfmBOorg7q7QjTUnmg6M0MhS5_fea0y-L2qCbDzHMH7I5mXXE3Yr6895.

Language
Predominately Ukrainian, but Hungarian and Slovak are common. This area at one time or another was under the control of Kyvian Rus, Poland, Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth, Hungary, Austria, Austro-Hungarian Empire, Imperial Russia, Soviet Union and Ukraine.

Misc.
I have a number of acquaintances in Budapest that are from Uzhhorod. Coming to Budapest made sense for them because they are part of a fairly large Hungarian speaking ethnic minority in the Ukrainian trans-Carpathian region. So we had a lot of discussions of where to go and what to see, where to stay, etc.

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I enjoyed this, thank you & cherry palinka noted. Which app are you using for the alerts?

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I wonder if the cherry palinka is similar to what I had in Lviv. Homemade by Grandma would be the best, but if you can’t get that - and if it’s what I had in Lviv - then there’s the place in Budapest that also sells it (and I have seen in in a couple of other countries as well).

Gerry, there are a few people (or more) who see Mr. É as encouraging people to travel to Ukraine right now and don’t think that’s a good idea. I suspect, based on some past threads, it might possibly make him slightly hesitant to be completely clear. I know after I went in 2023, I was not anxious to post about it. And didn’t for a year or so.