I'd set off from Britain in summer 1972 on the overland "hiippy trail" as a 20 year old.. I hitch-hiked through Europe down to Turkey. From there i took trains and buses- until I reached Mashad in Iran. From there a beat-up, crowded bus, comprising various European and Americans headed to the Afghan border.
Our bus finally arrived at the Afghan border compound around 9 in the evening. On disembarking we were informed that the border had closed for the day. Not knowing what to do next we suddenly heard a loud voice coming towards us. A large man in a white, shirt, wearing a bright green skull cap and carrying a large torch commanded our attention. "I am the Chief Customs Officer of Afghanistan- you are now in a free country. Not like that shithole Iran. All the boys will sleep in the hotel- the girls will sleep in my room". After laughing at this we made our way across the compound to the hotel . On checking in I asked if there was any food - whilst a couple of the others asked the manager if they had any hashish. There was no food to be had, but plenty of hashish was available. And that was my introduction to Afghanistan!
Good one!!!
I never made it to Afghanistan because I was coming from India and crossing Pakistan was prohibited due to India-Pak war, early 1970s. So sorry about that. Maybe some day. The NYTimes ran an article last year about how tourism is beginning to boom there.....cannot be that be true?? Maybe.
I also had issues on the Pakistan- India border. On the way to India I arrived in Lahore the evening before the border opening the following day. We'd been informed that we needed a piece of red tape from a govt. department in order to leave Pakistan. Not having time to get this item I took a chance and the next day arrived at the Pakistan- India border (once a week opening). The customs official asked for the piece of red tape. When I said I didn't have it I was refused permission to exit Pakistan. I hung around for an hour and then approached a border official who waved me through. On the Indian side they found the idea of red tape laughable- more interested in my opinion on the cricket scores.
Coming back into Afghanistan I was stopped at the Pakistan border. Upon finding a map of Asia I'd bought in Britain he noticed that it had Bangla Desh marked on it. He confiscated the map and when I asked for it back threatened me - telling me not to make trouble for Pakistan.
Those really were the days!!!!
I remember when travelers were advised to buy a bottle of JW Black and a carton of 555 cigs, and to give these to customs in Rangoon airport in exchange for ..... something I don't remember.
And the immigration agents would also change your cash into kyats.
I do wish I could have visited Afghanistan, though.
Look: