Hi,
I'm in the early stages of planning a trip to Greece in May or June. I'm try to figure out the most efficient route without backtracking. I want to visit Athens, Delphi, Meteora, Nafplio, and one island (Poros or Agenia).
Is the mainland trip possible without a car. I prefer not to rent a car. I have been a passenger in other European countries and driving is stressful.
My advice is to drive. Greece does not have anywhere near the rail system that Western European countries do. We had a car for Meteora and were so thankful we did. We loved exploring not just the town and monasteries, but the surrounding countryside as well. That part of Greece is more mountainous than we think of Greece as being. Very interesting drives.
Greece is building beautiful new motorways that make driving there very easy.
Tack Poros or Aegina at the beginning or end of your trip so you can drop off the car in Athens and jump on your ferry. And consider Hydra instead - its a car-free island and we loved it.
Your itinerary on the mainland without time-consuming backtracking by bus or train is not doable.
Driving in Greece isn't particularly stressful; you'll get used to it after a few hours.
By car from Athens, you can combine Delphi and Meteora on a trip north, then continue towards the Peloponnese (Nafplio), and finally return to Athens. It's also possible in the opposite direction.
A car allows you to have intermediate stops at the many interesting places you'll encounter along the route. As darrenblois mentioned, you'll have to cross some mountainous areas, so expect winding and scenic roads.
Are you a nervous driver at home? If not, then absolutely reconsider. I found the roads marvelous—either excellent modern highways or rural roads with little traffic. However, I am lucky to be married to a driver, which I am not, so I do have empathy for those who don’t want to drive—if that is their default, not for any concerns about Greek roads.
But the real answer lies in how much time you have. If it is several weeks, then sure, an adventure could be had with some truly slow travel throughout Greece, which would need to be supplemented with occasional tours or drivers. If you have a couple weeks like most of us, then you would have to drive or take a tour to get all of this in.
Driving in Greece is not dangerous as long as you don't drive dangerously which is possible anywhere you travel even back home.
Roads are good even in the most rural areas.
Driving is slow going in many areas not because the roads are bad but due to the terrain especially in mountainous areas, along curving coast lines and even driving through small villages.
If visiting a town/village there is usually parking available outside the village and that is your best place to park as driving through some towns is like a maze.
I also use a navigation system like Google Maps which really helps getting from Point A to Point B.
The best way to experience Greece whether islands or the mainland is by car as buses while available may not be convenient and hours may be geared to work/school hours.
Take your time and you'll be fine.
