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Syros or Sifnos in September?

Hi all,

We are a couple in our mid-70's who have visited many Cycladic islands over the past 10-12 years. This year we will be in Greece in early to mid-September and can spend about 7 days on an island.

We like quiet beaches (no loud music please, although sunbeds and umbrellas are welcome), hiking, visiting villages where real Greeks live, and minimal tourism (although I realize that yes, we are tourists).

I considered Syros recently, because I had read that it has little tourism and retains much of the authentic Greek lifestyle. But when I looked into it a bit more, the big attraction seemed to be the city, the beaches didn't look as appealing as some, and less nature/hiking. I may have gotten that wrong.

We visited Sifnos in 2023 and really liked it. Unfortunately, we had contracted Covid on the plane over, and basically spent our 4 days in Sifnos going back and forth between our room and the beach on Platys Gialos. Didn't have the energy to hike the well regarded trails.

The more I learn about the two islands, the more I think I would prefer to return to Sifnos, but wondering about what experienced folks on this forum would recommend, if choosing between Syros and Sifnos.

We stayed at the hotel on Platys Gialos last time and liked it and the beach, but I see others on this forum prefer other beaches. We may have been so out of it at that time that just the sunbeds and the water were enough to satisfy us ;-). At any rate, would consider another beach stay this time. We like to stay on or near the beach whenever possible.

Cost is not an issue, although we don't need luxury - comfortable is good enough.

Thanks in advance,

Rachel

Posted by
3661 posts

HI there! It's travelerjan, and thanks for following my suggestion to re-post your query here, since TA seems to be imploding! The latest I hear is that while their AI robot is deleting our answers as "not in line with TA standards" or whatever, it is scooping up the advice we give for reprocessing & using as its own. ... we may have to stop providing Freebies for Venture Capialists.

Anyway, I urge you to return to Sifnos ... a beautiful island that so far largely has escaped supercommercial invasion, perhaps because it has no airport and fewer ferry connections; go now, before th inevitable happens. Yes it's heaven for walkers & hikers, with many trails in flagstone with low walls (until after WW II, Sifnos had almost no drivable roads & residents travelled mainly via walking, mules and small boats along the shores). This superb webside - http://sifnos.e-sifnos.com/index.htm Gives ALL info; cllick every link! Here's a start on good walks - https://sifnos.e-sifnos.com/explore-sifnos/relaxing-walk.php and dont overlook the unsual opportunity to rent small motorboats on a beach for a half-day. So Much to do & see!

In September, I recommend staying up in hillside villages -- Artemonas- Appollonia - Ano Petali are linked along the hills like a pearl necklace, with views down the valley & out to sea. A good bus network centered up there takes you to beaches -- on my stays, ive gone to beaches every afternoon -- or you can rent a car part-time to explore further. In September the beaches are wonderful by day, but the evenings are liveliest in Appollonia, with music, dining, etc in low-key clubs, cafes & tavernas along its lanes. There are many fans of staying in port of Kamares, and it does have the most retaurants, but I find its beach too near the ferry pier, a main road runs all along it, and to me the village feels a bit closed-in, wedged btween high hills... but that's just me. It IS fun to bus down there for dinner, & taxi back if you stay late. If you decide on Sifnos I have lodging recommends on beach or in hills.

As for Syros, I made a deliberate visit because of seeng pictures of its stunning main square, featured in every website or guidebook about the isle. . . and it was indeed remarkable. The beaches, and the island terrain as a whole, not that imprssive. It's also very much for Greeks, they say 90% of visitors are Greek, and they don't seem to be that interested in others, just my impression. Maybe if going in large group, or with Greek friends one wouldn't feel so much llike an outsider, but as a solo woman of a certain age, hmm. It was for almost 2 centuries (and perhaps still is) the economic capital of Central Greek isles, refueling center for all shipping, with multiple banks, insurance companies, legal offices still filling its main streets. On all the Greek isles I visit, I like to bring away some local art work or handicraft item, so one day, i began a search for a local art or craft gallery. I walked the lanes of the capital for an hour, in vain. Also hoped to get an aerial-view photo or postcard of the Town Square -- but also no places selling postcards; finally found One rack in the portside ticket office next to the pier for day-trip boats. Makes sense, if almost all visitors to Syros are Greek, why do they need postcards. In sum, IMHO, quite interesting place to see, not my choice for extended stay. Others may disagree strongly, and I honor their more fortunate experience.

Posted by
115 posts

Janet and NIcksy, Thank you both for your responses.

Janet, we have communicated a great deal in the past and you have always been very helpful. Thank you for making the effort to respond on TA and then hustling over to this forum, and suggesting I do the same. What a disappointment TA has become!

We have decided on Sifnos and really appreciate all the great info and links that you included, Janet.

We really like being on the beach, so I (sort of randomly, based on someone's suggestion) chose the Erifili Hotel on Faros. The booking is cancellable until August 8, so we have time to change our minds. If we expand our visit to 8-9 nights, I would consider staying 3-4 nights on the beach, and 3-4 in Apollonia or Artemonas. Do you have a particular place you like to stay? We’d be open to suggestions, and as I said earlier, we like comfort but don’t need luxury, and we would enjoy being in a village. Mid-range price is our jam (hope that’s not too vague).

Full disclosure: I had a moment this morning of considering Kefalonia, obviously a whole different thing – because we have friends who have family there and have recommended it, and because we will be coming from an event in Corfu, so it’s an easier place to get to by car and ferry without having to spend a day getting from Corfu Town to Athens, stay in Athens, and then get the ferry to Sifnos. But I have a particular love of the Cyclades, and frankly am not as drawn to the Ionian islands, so I think I will stick with Sifnos and just plan that travel day in.

I will spend some time exploring the Sifnos links you sent and probably get back to you with more questions ;-).

Nicksy, thanks again for your comments on Syros and the photos, which are lovely.

Posted by
1391 posts

I was very close to going to Syros for next April as it does appear very nice, doesn't get the hype of Big Name Islands and seems to have a nice environment, several good villages and a more Greek Vibe than others in the Cyclades.

However, I got a great price on a flight to Lemnos so I'm heading there next April.

We went to Sifnos/Milos on our very first trip way back in Oct. 2010 and it was beautiful.

Very quiet everywhere we went, beautiful villages, landscape, welcoming locals and instantly fell in love with Greece.

I'm not sure how much has changed since then, how much tourists it attracts but I hope it still is holding out by not selling out to mass tourism.

Posted by
3661 posts

GLad you decided on Sifnos, you will NOT be disappointed. I stay in a tiny guest house, but if I were to recommend a hotel it would be the Artemon Hotel, right by the peaceful & beautiful village square, its main floor rooms look on a lovely garden, the upper floor rear balconies look out on a vallley of fields & out to sea. I've just read that in the first week of September for last few years, the Society Gastronomique of Sifnos meets in the Sifnos Square, with all the top restaurants & taverns competing with signature dishes. 2 of my favorite restaurants were right on the square. The bus stop is right off the square, as well as the start of several of the best-known trails.

Posted by
3661 posts

Just found the source & correction on that Festival"
"Gastronomic Festival
In the central square of the settlement, the last couple of years and during the first days of September, the famous Festival of Cycladic Gastronomy "Nikolaos Tselementes" is held Delegations from almost all the Cycladic islands gather and present dishes and traditions of their homeland. A truly insular feast surrounded by lots of dancing and singing."

Posted by
115 posts

Thank you again, Janet. I love the idea o the Gastronomy Festival - we won't arrive in Sifnos til 7 Sept., so it might be over by then, but I will look into it.

I will also check out the Artemon Hotel. When I asked for a "hotel," I did not mean to exclude guest houses and inns, so if you're willing to share the name of the guest house you stay in, I would appreciate it.

Any opinions about our staying at Faros Beach? I know you prefer staying in the villages, but curious what you think of that.

Thanks again,
Rachel

Posted by
87 posts

I must say, in my opinion, Janet is one of the most helpful posters on the RS travel forum! I was fortunate to meet her here 2 years ago when I was planning a trip to Athens and Sifnos for the first time after 20 years of European travel. I enjoyed both, predominately because Janet provided so much information. I stayed at at one of her recommended places on Sifnos, that I highly recommend also, in Ano Petali, at http://www.florageronti.gr/. Flora was a delight, with spotlessly clean units, side by side (maybe 4-5 total), each with a patio out front with small table and chairs, peaceful, and a beautiful view over Appolonia and on out to the sea. At night it was magical with the white twinkling lights all over the island. The small town of Appolonia was a short walk down hill on a cobbled walk, for dinner, a hand-made candy store, an awesome handmade jewelry store and an artisans shop with different artists represented. Up hill on a a cobblestone walk is Artemenos, where the Gastronomic Festival is held in September. We had a cheap, about a 20 year old manual transmission rental car, didn’t even check for damage when we returned the car, but it did get us to numerous beautiful small beaches and bays around the island. We were there the first week in June and I hardly remember seeing tourists. I look forward to returning in mid-May this year.

Posted by
115 posts

Thank you, Susan. I too have found Janet very helpful in past years, both on TA and RS - she is knowledgeable and generous with her knowledge - also enthusiastic, which is so encouraging.

I will check out the http://www.florageronti.gr/ in Ano Petali and appreciate your comment and recommendation. Really excited about returning to Sifnos.

Posted by
3432 posts

I agree with Janet regarding places to stay in Sifnos. We stayed in several places: Faros, Apollonia, Kamares, and Kastro (over several trips since the early 90s). Comparing Sifnos today with my old photos, I see that very little has changed. I wouldn't hesitate to go back, although I've never been to Syros. So this is a subjective opinion.

My favorite place is Kastro, but it's not necessarily suitable for all travelers (a car is preferable, and there's no beach nearby). We stayed twice at Aris and Maria's house.

https://www.roomsinsifnos.com/accommodation/aris-and-maria-house

This same website, roominsifnos, is locally managed. You'll find a lot of information and a list of accommodations there.

Faros would be my second choice. It's much quieter than Plathis Gialos. I stayed in a studio apartment above the local grocery store, facing the small harbor, but it's no longer there.

I have pretty much the same opinion as Janet about Kamares, which is the place where I didn't feel like I was "in Sifnos" (personal feeling).

The "Nikolaos Tselementes" gastronomic festival in Sifnos has been held since 2007. For several years now, it has taken place around the last or second-to-last weekend of September (more precisely, from Thursday to Saturday). We were in Sifnos quite a few years ago without knowing that there was this festival, at the time it was early September, we had a very good time.
Leaving Sifnos has always been heartbreaking.