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Seeking Feedback on Peloponnese Itinerary

Dear fellow Rick Steves forum fans:
I am hoping you might have time to give some feedback/advice about our proposed itinerary for a 9 day trip to the Peloponnese in late June/early July. We are semi-experienced travelers to Greece. We have been to Athens and Nafplio, and have had two different trips to Crete. We are a couple in our late 50s, relatively good shape, traveling with two young adult children (early/mid 20s, LGBTQ) from Seattle. What we loved most about Crete was the food!, staying at a villa in a small town (Gavalochori) swimming, walking to the local bakery, eating wonderful food at the tavernas, and occasionally going further to visit the beach and swim. We also loved seeing the Palace at Knossos and Chania. I try to balance sightseeing of different types with time to chill out and just experience the atmosphere of a place. There are so many places I would love to see, but we have only 9 days, and we don’t want to spend all of them in the car. It will be hot – can’t avoid the timing due to work. We are returning the Nafplio because the kids really loved it there and so did we. We already booked our nights in Nafplio so we must start there. Our return flight to Seattle is out of London, so I’m thinking we could possibly fly from Kalamata to London instead of returning to Athens. We don’t have a desire to stay in Athens. I know a lot of folks recommend Olympia but it seems too far for this trip.

Sat 6/27 Arrive Athens (late) via Rome from Seattle - get in around 10 pm. Overnight near Athens airport
Sun 6/28 Rental car, drive to Nafplio. On way, stop in Corinth, Acrocorinth. Night in Nafplio at beloved Pension Marianna.
Mon 6/29 Walk around Nafplio, see castle, recover from jet lag, eat great food. Nafplio.
Tues 6/30 (Is one of our party’s birthday) Day trip to Mycenae, Nemea (we love Greek wine). Sleep Nafplio.

Now I think I need help deciding between two possibly itineraries. Or maybe there’s a third way?
Option 1:
7/1: Drive coast road via Leonidio and maybe Kousmos or Geraki to Monemvasia. Overnight Monemvasia.
7/2: See Monemvasia in morning. Drive to Elafonisios via ferry. Overnight Elafonisios.
7/3: Snorkel around ruins at Pavlopetri. Beach time. Possible sight seeing or relaxing. Night in Elafonisios.
7/4: Check out early. Drive to Areopoli via Caves of Diros and some of the Mani. Night in Areopoli.
7/5: Drive to Kalamata. Try to squeeze in Ancient Messene? Night in Kalamata.
7/6: Pack up. Food market in Kalamata. 5 pm flight to London.
7/7: Day in London. Fly to Seattle in evening.
What I like about this: coast road, snorkeling the ruins, seeing some of rural Peloponnese. Downside: Is Monemvasia worth it? Miss seeing Mystras, which I really want to see. Not much time in Mani.

Option 2:
7/1: Get up early. Drive to Mystras to see in morning (2 hour drive?). Lunch/afternoon in Sparti – see museum. Drive to Areopoli to stay. (I chose it instead of Githeio because Githeio looks similar to Nafplio but I may be totally wrong. And I think Kardamyli too far after the long day at Mystras and Sparti.)
7/2: Caves of Dirou. Drive part of the Rick Steves Mani driving tour, south of Areopoli. Night in Areopoli.
7/3: Beach day – maybe snorkel to see turtles at Lemeni. Night in Aeropoli.
7/4: Drive to Kalamata. Maybe stop in Kastania on way? If time, see museum or do food tour in Kalamata. Night in Kalamata.
7/5: Side trip to Ancient Messene. Night in Kalamata. (I was thinking Kalamata might have some night life for the kids).
7/6: Food market, sight see in Kalamata. Evening flight to London from Kalamata.
7/7: Daytime in London. Fly home in evening.
Pros: Get to see Mystras and this does more justice to the Mani Peninsula. Con: miss Monemvasia, Elafonisios. Lots of driving.

If you have thoughts for me I'd appreciate it! - Susan

Posted by
6681 posts

Have you determined that you can do a one way car rental? That does not seem to be as easy as in other countries.

Posted by
3634 posts

A one-way rental is possible (pick-up at Athens airport and drop-off at Kalamata airport) with companies like Hertz or Avis, for example, for an additional fee of €350 to €500 depending on the type of car.

Before finalizing your itinerary, you should decide whether you prefer to return to Athens or pay the additional fee.

Posted by
11 posts

Hi Susan,
We love the Peloponnese and have visited many times (again in May this year). I do think you are trying to do too much and with that in mind would possibly cut out a day in Nafplion which is getting very crowded now.
Here's a route I would suggest:
from Nafplion drive down the beautiful coast through Paralia Astros and Tyros to Leonidio and then on to Mystras via Kosmas. This is a long and windy drive and I'd prefer to stop a night in beautiful Leonidio, or at the beach there (Plaka) but you may be happy to drive on.
Stay in Mystras not Sparti, and if you can, arrange to drop your car in the lower carpark and have someone drop you in the top carpark. Then most of your wandering through this wonderful site is downhill! It will be rather hot.
Then down to Gythio or Areopolis as you choose - Gythio is not much like Nafplion - a much more 'Greek' town and, when we were there in late May, no tourists to speak of - just lots of Greeks on holiday.
We didn't stay in Areopolis but it is a lovely area. We went further down the Mani and stayed in Gerolimenas... the Mani is fascinating and great spots for swimming and yes, do go to the caves - we loved them.
Then I'd head north through Kardamyli, which is getting busy but still lovely and there's a great moderate hike up the hills from there.
Then skip past/through Kalamata and go straight to what is perhaps the best site in the Peloponnese - ancient Messene.
This site is less than an hour from Kalamata so if you do decide to pay the drop off fee and leave the car in Kalamata you could even stay in the hills near Messene and drive down to Kalamata to drop the car and fly out.
Yes you would miss Monemvasia which might be lovely at a different time of year - it was a gorgeous place when we stayed there 12 years ago, but getting sooo busy these days. They are thinking of putting in a gondola lift to take people to the site above the old town... sad...
Trace this out on a map and see what you think.
And... if you decide not to go to Ancient Messene you could consider heading south from Kalamata to Methoni and Koroni - two lovely towns only 40 minutes apart - great beaches and castles and food in that area, and also close to Kalamata for a flight out.

Posted by
29 posts

I really appreciate the feedback. I also talked with the young people, who are less interested in long car rides and more interested in having the option of relaxing near a pool or with beach view with options to do a bit of shopping or walking around. So now I'm wondering if (after Nafplio) we need to limit the number of places we stay so that some of us can opt out of the day trips if they want to.
7/1: If feel like a drive, take coast road to Leonidio then Kosmas to Githeio. OR, drive to Githeio via Tripoli, looking for roadside cherry stands on way. Beach. Relax. (I am still torn about how to get to Mystras early in the morning so that we could spend a few hours and not roast. But I'm reluctant to spend just one night in Mystras. I'm also concerned that Mystras will be very hot so not so good to hang around). Night in Githeio. (I changed to here because there is a bit more to do for the young folks).
7/2: Up early to drive to Mystras by 8 am. ½ day tour of Mystras. Museum in Sparti. Return to Githeio to relax. Snorkel at Lemeni?
7/3: Caves of Dirou. Drive to Kalamata area via Kardamyli. Stay at villa or apartment with pool and water view, ideally close enough to Kalamata to get to Ancient Messene & Kalamata reasonably. Is Pylos too far?
7/4 – 7/6: Beaches, side trips to Ancient Messene, Olive oil/wine tour with The Olive Routes or food tour in Kalamata. Maybe some city time with shopping for young people. Or see Koroni or other towns.
7/6 evening fly out of Kalamata.

Posted by
3634 posts

I agree 200% with Kathyv's suggestions.

Take the coastal road to Leonidio, then the road to Mystras.
The town of Sparta isn't really worth staying in, you'll find much better options nearby.

Continue towards Gythio or Aeropoli, as Kathy suggests.

Monemvasia is only worth a few hours' visit at most. The fortified medieval town is uninhabited except by tourists who stay overnight. There are two or three restaurants and souvenir shops; it's like a large open-air museum. Staying there overnight is, in my opinion, a waste of time, especially since it involves a detour and extra driving to the southeast.

There's no shade in Mistra, so it's best to go very early in the morning given the temperatures and sunshine you might experience in July.
Ancient Messene is just as interesting as Olympia, set in a stunning natural environment and without the hordes of tourists. So don't regret not going to Olympia.

I've listed a few places on this map, in case it gives you some ideas.

https://www.google.com/maps/d/edit?mid=1HzqyEorKrUZxc5LjPjlvG2utnKof78E&usp=sharing

Posted by
1434 posts

I'm another who agrees the road from Nafplio down the coast is much better, more scenic, less traffic and more enjoyable.

I've stayed in Gythio and can highly recommend it as it's a lovely town with a long waterfront and not solely devoted to tourism.

Lots of options for shops, markets and tavernas and a nice Greek vibe.

Great base to explore the Mani, day trip to Mystras and also Monemvasia which for me was just OK.

Lots of options in the Peloponnese and a car is highly recommended but it can be slow going not because the roads are bad but due to the terrain like mountains, curving coast lines and a huge amount of photo ops.

I also recommend some type of navigation system. I use Google Maps and it really helps with driving directions, distances, miles and time involved.

Here's a link to a great map of the Peloponnese that you can zoom in/out and left/right, up/down.

https://euro-map.com/karty-grecii/peloponnes/podrobnaya-turisticheskaya-karta-peloponnesa.jpg

If interested you can read my trip report with photos of a trip that may help you decide on an itinerary.

https://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowTopic-g189483-i1277-k14200587-Peloponnese_Trip_Report_Sept_25_Oct_12-Peloponnese.html

Posted by
1434 posts

Janet:

Yes, I've noticed the link I posted to the map isn't "quite" the one I've had for years that is very easy to zoom in and out and navigate around.

Not sure what happened but at least you can zoom in a bit and go up/down, left/right which helps with this one.

The original map I have is really helpful with locating areas of the Peloponnese one would like to look into.