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Return to Greece 2022: Chania

With high hopes we booked flights to Greece in January 2022 hoping Covid regulations would be relaxed by May 1. We arrived May 3 just as the rules were changed by both Greece and Canada. It is a very long trip. We arrived in Chania after 4 flights and 24 hours of travel.
We arrived at Chania airport at 1PM and were met by a taxi hired by our VRBO hostess Efi owner of the Venetian house. What an attractive little doorway at the end of a narrow lane. The house was in the east end close to the harbour near the old shipyard buildings, but hidden up a back alley which proved to be very quiet and convenient to Chania old town. The moment we opened the front door I remembered that old Venetian houses have a very small footprint with several floors above. Ours had 4 levels. There was a well stocked kitchen and bathroom on the ground floor. A seating area with couches was on the second floor, the bedroom on the third floor and a lovely rooftop seating area with a view over the harbour. Perfect. Except having the bedroom on the third floor and the bathroom on the ground floor was a bit inconvenient in the middle of the night.
Despite jet lag we unpacked and headed out to the old town and wandered around, familiarizing ourselves with the area. We bought cheese, bread and wine and retired to our rooftop patio for a snack and rest.

In the early evening we always head out for a glass of wine or an ouzo and watch the sun set over the harbour. Finally, we are relaxed and settled into familiar routine in Chania.
We chose to dine at Amphora one of our favourite tavernas on the harbour. The food has always been good, reasonably priced and the view is outstanding. We had a simple dinner of mezies and house wine. It was a cool evening and the crowds were light so we got a table with an unobstructed view of the harbour and lighthouse. What a great way to finish our first day in Chania.
Morning coffee on the rooftop was wonderful. There were swallows swooping all over the sky, church bells ringing and the sun shining. Today our plan was to walk to Agi Apostoli beach. This took us along the shore line, past Neo Hora beach. We walked as far as Aptera Beach and stopped at a cafe there. We were tired. Jet lag and a long walk had caught up with us. The sand beaches all along here are beautiful. Part of the walk to Aptera is along a groomed dirt road. The wild flowers are beautiful.

Looking for a sunset spot, I was accosted by a taverna barker and in the ensuing banter asked him if they had the best ouzo. With that we ended up at a table. The very nice head man said that he had sent out for something special for us. He chatted with us about being from Sparta. Very pleasant. The ouzo finally arrived and it was very special. Smooth. The brand was Porto. We were told we could buy a bottle at such and such a place. We said that we would definitely return for another serving one evening. We never did find the place where this ouzo was available. All the stores that sold Ouzo told us they have never heard of this brand. Strange.

Tonight, we dined at Semi Ramis, deep in the old town maze of alleys. We ordered grilled vegetables, fried zucchini balls, shrimp saganaki and fried potatoes. It was a lovely setting but the food all came too quickly and all at the same time. Our preference is to make dinner an occasion that takes time. We prefer to have two appetizers then later another appetizer or main and share them slowly. This was the only occasion on the whole trip where we felt rushed.

To be continued

Posted by
2789 posts

How fun to read about your arrival in Crete especially since we just were there.

I have part of a trip report under trip reports but maybe should have put it under Greece like you did.

Posted by
2186 posts

Thank you Stan! These detailed descriptions from you and Beth are making me wish we had come to Crete in May too. But September will soon be here. And I’m taking notes.

Posted by
1444 posts

Part 2 Return to Greece.
The next day we decided on a morning walk back to the beaches as we wanted to find Agi Apostoli. Rested and early, the walk was much easier. Walking through town we came to the open-air market which has blocks and blocks of fresh produce. We bought raki, cinnamon and honey. Later we combined those ingredients to make Rakomelo, Honey Raki. Going onward for our beach walk we went to the far end of Golden Beach. At that point we reached a rocky outcrop that we were too tired to try and walk around. We stopped at a delightful wee taverna for iced coffee and a beer. We must have spent an hour talking and reading before heading home.

For sunset we walked to the end of the pier to the Chania Sailing Club. What a great view as we could see the sun set behind the mountains, rather than behind buildings.

After Sunset we tried out the ‘best’ restaurant in Chania according to Tripadviser reviews. It is set back behind the old mosque on the waterfront. It is very modern. We had a Greek salad and fried potatoes, really soft unripened cheese and herbs. The main, was lamb shank on a bed of risotto. Very good. They did not have a house wine but the waiter recommended a Greek wine which was very nice, but we agreed we would have preferred something a little bolder with the lamb. ( Side comment. Not having a house wine is unusual, however on this trip we noticed a few tavernas only sold bottles. A litre of house wine normally is 10 to 12 euros bottled wine 18 to 30. I sense a trend for more revenue. We now confirm house wine is available beforer we order. We can always leave and find a taverna with house wine.) The food was excellent and so was the service. However, they played their background music as if it were a night club, way too loud with heavy base. This distraction did not create a relaxing eating environment.

Next morning, we picked up our rental car from Auto Rentals Crete. Dimitris, a Crete Destination Expert, came all the way from Heraklion to bring us the car. It was so good to see him again. After the paperwork was finished, he drove us into the old town and took us to meet Eleni, another Destination Expert. What a lovely lady.

Today was a destination expert extravaganza. We immediately drove the car to the to the Botanical Gardens to meet another DE, Widcombe and her husband. We had a great lunch of Greek salad, horte and fava and home-made bread. We all went on a two-hour hike through the gardens and saw lots of ducks, screechy peacocks and krikri at the bottom. Then we had to climb back up! Botanical gardens is well worth visiting.

Botanical Gardens https://www.flickr.com/photos/stanbr54/albums/72177720299739852

On Saturday we tried to drive to Agi Apostoli as we still hadn’t gotten there. However, we couldn’t find a drive-up access or parking so gave up. The problem is we were now on the secondary road that followed the coast with busy traffic and lots of hotels all the way to Agia Marina. I was happy to get back on the National Highway where we proceeded to drive to Ancient Falasarna, which is an old Greek/Roman town. We walked a couple of kilometers through well groomed olive groves and greenhouses. As we walked, we found a place that had unusual rock formations. Could this be Falasarna? We had an app that told us to find the gate house and there was a concrete building with a small gate. We wandered into the area but it just didn’t seem right. After a few minutes we realized this was no archaeological site but rather a substantial goat pen! We looked around to make sure no one had seen us and made a hasty but dignified retreat. We continued up the road until we found the gate house. It was closed. The highlight of the day was finding a flock of goats happily munching on tomatoes.

Posted by
3397 posts

Enjoying the report here & on TA, and memories of others too. Your thing about herds of goats reminds me of times when goat-clumps would block a road while they took their own sweet time. Goat-delay news cheers me, that tourism hasn't totally won. I remember being chased from Sanctuary of Apollo on a Paros hilltop, 20 years ago -- not by the goats, but their owner and his Fierce Dogs... they came rushing down the hill and we backed up the car... the herder had staked the place for grazing & didn't want company. He even scared off a hells-angels biker type. Since then, a few super-luxe villas have appeared there, so probably goats gone. But not in Crete!
Speaking of sites & animals, when we discovered Falassarna's ancient Hellenic/Roman site, just about 200 yards from hotel Petalida, it was populated with small group of local chickens out for a stroll.

Posted by
3961 posts

Enjoying your wonderful trip report (as usual!)
Great details. I always learn something new and will bookmark! Semi Ramis sounds like my kind of menu selections. I agree- we too enjoy a meal that takes time!

Posted by
1444 posts

Yes we have met his sons. Demitris is grooming them to take over, sometime in the next 30 years.

Posted by
1444 posts

Last part of Chania trip report.
On Saturday we tried to drive to Agi Apostoli as we still hadn’t gotten there. However, we couldn’t find a drive-up access or parking so gave up. The problem is we were now on the secondary road that followed the coast with busy traffic and lots of hotels all the way to Agia Marina. I was happy to get back on the National Highway where we proceeded to drive to Ancient Falasarna, which is an old Greek/Roman town. We walked a couple of kilometers through well groomed olive groves and greenhouses. As we walked, we found a place that had unusual rock formations. Could this be Falasarna? We had an app that told us to find the gate house and there was a concrete building with a small gate. We wandered into the area but it just didn’t seem right. After a few minutes we realized this was no archeological site but rather a substantial goat pen! We looked around to make sure no one had seen us and made a hasty but dignified retreat. We continued up the road until we found the gate house. It was closed. The highlight of the day was finding a flock of goats happily munching on tomatoes.

On the way back we did a detour and drove to Elafonissi beach. The road was through mountainous territory with narrow roads, hairpin turns and impatient Greek drivers piling up behind us. We eventually found a monastery which is supposed to be the most important one in Crete. It is built high up and resembles a fortress with a commanding view of the sea and surrounding countryside. The whole area was beautiful. All we could hear were the birds and the ocean lapping far below.

It was getting late and traffic was flowing past us heading away from Elafonissi so we turned around and headed back to Chania. Our biggest accomplishment of the day was not once mishandling the clutch and stalling the car.

In the evening we ate at Ela, a restaurant in an old soap factory building with no roof. We were at a table for two overlooking the dining room. It had a very nice atmosphere. We had cheese saganaki, veg and smoked pork. I am going to say this just once, so I don’t have to repeat myself, virtually every taverna on this whole trip had outstanding food. They all seemed to have found a way to modernize and refresh traditional dishes.

Next morning we met our friends Dimitris and Linda at a beach side taverna for morning coffee. Dimitris was our first travel agent in Greece in 1996. We have kept in touch all these years. Greeks really do place value on relationships. We had a great visit.

The rest of the day was just relaxing in town. We purchased a lovely pomegranate ornament.
We then visited Eleni’s shop to buy a bowl and she gave me a lovely bottle with laurel painted on it. Laurel in Greek is Daphne.

On our last day we drove to Gouverneto Monastery. On Mondays open from 9-12 and then 5-7 so we weren’t able to go inside. Just as well as I was wearing shorts. There is a mountainside hike to a ruined catholic church and a cave with a big rock that resembled a bear. We took a refreshment break sitting on the side of the mountain and we had a visitation from two goats.
The path continued down to another abandoned monastery but the path was paved with rocks and uneven. Age is beginning to affect us and the knowledge that we had to climb back up the path, was sufficient for us to decide not to finish the hike down.

We returned to Chania for our first gyros pita and beer at Kallatinos Grill and Gyros near the white fountain. We ended the afternoon sunning on Neo Hora beach.

Our last night in Chania we went back to Amphora. A week after we arrived the crowds on the waterfront promenade had increase substantially and we had to wait for a table. We ended our stay in Chania with a delicious dinner of fried mushrooms, stuffed eggplant with feta, lamb with horta, with an amazing dessert on the house, sweet wine and raki. Great house wine too.

Posted by
2789 posts

Thanks for sharing. Will there be more installments of the other places you went?

Posted by
1444 posts

Hi Beth. Next instalment will be Elounda. I may start a new thread though. Probably this afternoon it will be ready.

Posted by
2186 posts

Hi Stan — In a Chania trip report some years ago, you mentioned small organized day trip tours that were available from/near the bus station. I can’t find the details now. Anyway, we will not have a car for our trip in September and were hoping to find some day tours like that. Did you happen to notice these on this trip?

Posted by
1444 posts

Hi Charline. Yes the tour was called Smart tours and ran from Chania bus station. We stopped at the station 3 times to see if the tours were still being offered but the office was closed each time. There was a sign at the entrance tot the parking lot that said smart tours and I did see a mini bus that might be Smart Tours but I just don't know. You can probably visit any travel agent in Chania to enquire. Thee are certainly lots of tours offered.

Posted by
2186 posts

Thanks, that’s good to know. We’ll check around when we arrive.