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Planning solo 75th birthday trip to Greece May 2018 for 8-10 weeks

I am a retired USA teacher that loves budget style travel to new places. I have more time than money!! I have been to Athens/ Santorini /Mykonos in 1988 and thought it's time to return to Greece and see some other spots. I will fly in/out of Athens. I do NOT plan to rent a car. I want to use bus/ ferry transport although I realize I might have to consider short flights. I would like to rent rooms for 20-30 euro ( or less) with shared kitchen. Private bath and balcony would be a plus. I like to stay 3 nights or more in each place to avoid being on the move too much. On past trips I have used bookin.com and airbnb. I like small family run lodging the best. My focus: seaside walks, historical sites, café people watching, time to read! I plan to take short tours to visit places not easily reached by public transport. I am open to any and all suggestions. I find on line forums offer a wealth of info to supplement guide books such as Rick Steves + Rough Guide. Some destinations I am researching include:
Nafplio/ Monemvasia/CRETE/ / Syros/ Naxos/Antiparos/ Milos/Delphi...not sure about RHODES I need more input. Do you have a favorite hotel or restaurant in any of the above destinations? My daily budget for food/room/admissions is $60-70 per day so dinners have to be 10-12 euro max. Is it common in small towns to have set menu prices at lunch?
looking forward to hearing from independent travelers.

Posted by
897 posts

I've never been to Greece, so I can't help you in that realm. But, based on your post, you are absolutely my kind of traveler. I compliment you on your obvious enthusiasm and determination. I can only hope that when I reach your age I will have even half your spirit of adventure. Bravo!

Posted by
122 posts

My philosophy when I turned 70 years old was "if not NOW, then WHEN? So off I went solo to Ecuador for 6 weeks. I met great people and became more confident about being a budget traveler. Since then I have been to Belize for 2 weeks solo. My big trip was 2 years ago. I went from Budapest Hungary to Dubrovnik using public transport/ staying in hostels and family run inns and using items from the deli and bakery to fix simple meals. I felt safe and happy the entire 8 weeks! I even connected with cousins in Slovenia that I never knew existed...

Posted by
72 posts

I too applaud your zest to travel and live life now attitude. You are an inspiration.

Crete is an absolute must see... you could spend 2 weeks there. All 3 of the main cities are different and interesting. You have Minoan Palaces, Venetian castles, WW 2 intrigue and interesting people and small villages up in the mountains. Crete is very different from Santorini/Mykonos/Athens. What little I know about you - I think you will love Crete.

Read Patrick Leigh Fermor's book on the Mani peninsula and I bet you will add that area to your list. That's located on the Peloponnese.

Delphi is a must see. What time of year are you going? If you are in Greece during Orthodox Easter - Delphi would be a great place to be on the biggest holiday for Greece.

All three of these suggestions are quite a distance from each other so work in some travel time. But travel time in Greece can be fun - ferries, busses and adventure are all part of the experience.

If during your research you decide to go to the Dodecanese (Rhodes is part of this island group) - DM me - I spent a lot of time there and know the islands well.

I envy you your trip - I can't wait to hear where you end up going.

Cheers
Amy

Posted by
122 posts

AMY thank you for the quick reply/ kind words and trip tips. I love having books with me that focus on my travel destination. I would like more info on adding RHODES to my agenda. My trip is planned for May 1st to July 10 2018. I don't want to fight the crowds and heat in summer. I know I need to reserve a few nights at start/ end of trip, but I am hoping it wont be necessary to reserve way ahead for island stays since it is not quite high season. I need to look up 2018 dates for Easter since that will be a factor I assume in some locations...or will it be all over Greece? Isn't Greek Easter a week ahead of Easter in the USA? Lots to research and decide that's why I am starting now. I appreciate your on line support!

Posted by
983 posts

I second Crete as a great place to spend extended time. Fascinating island great archaeological and historical sites, lovely small towns, beaches, interesting cities ( love Chania), great food, friendly people.

Posted by
1223 posts

Since you'll be traveling off-season there'll be a lot of pluses . . . mostly lower costs, less tourists and nice weather without the heat of summer.

Off-season accommodations will offer you more bang-for-the-buck but I think you'll probably spend about 30 euros a night which can offer you a nice studio with kitchen and a private balcony . . . but that may depend on where you go.

Off-season also means less public transportation, mostly buses that run more on locals' time than tourists' time which means early morning departure and late afternoon return which is doable but you'll be limited on where you can go. I use to rely on public transportation until I started renting a car and found what I was missing by not doing so. You'll have access to out-of-the-way areas of Greece (islands/mainland) where you'll find the more traditional Greece rather than the tourist Greece. If it's all possible rent a car . . . you don't need to do it for your entire stay somewhere but at least 1-2 days.

Nafplio is one of Greece's loveliest towns but it may be a bit more expensive . . . Monemvasia also. Crete is superb but needs weeks to fully enjoy. Naxos is one of Greece's loveliest islands and is very doable within your budget. Sifnos & Milos to. Don't overlook Amorgos and Astypalea . . . same for Ikaria and Fourni. Kardamyli in the Mani Peninsula and the surrounding area is an overlooked area of Greece and can provide you with wonderful experience. A rental is necessary to fully experience the areas. Delphi entails a long day trip from Athens . . . more time on the road than at the site. It would be best to spend an overnight there which adds to the cost. Rhodes is very popular and can offer wonderful historic/archeological sites but tends to be on the high side of costs.

So many areas of Greece to consider: islands and mainlands . . . most will offer you what you seek and at very reasonable prices, especially off season.

My recommendations for Greek Islands/Mainland:

Amorgos--Porto Katapola Studios
Astypalea--Oneiro Studios
Sifnos-- Sifnakia Konakia Studios
Naxos--Studios Naxos
Milos--Forget the name but there are numerous accommodations with Adamas being your best area to stay in
Tinos--Athos Studios
Chios--Frourio Apartments
Crete--Chania--Iason (Jason Studios) in the Old Town and superb for the price
Most anywhere in the Mani Peninsula, especially basing yourself in Kardymili, but a car rental is essential.

Lots more options but it's going to take more research on your part to find the best islands/mainland areas and prices. With the internet you can do it . . . it's always best to contact the accommodation rather than going through a third-party website.

Check out Matt's Greece and Greek Islands Website for lots of info, options and what to do:

http://www.greecetravel.com/

Posted by
122 posts

Thanks TOMMY I especially appreciated having the names of some places you know about in each locale..I will reserve ahead the 1st few nights and my final time in ATHENS before my flight to the USA , but Id like to go with the flow as much as possible the rest of the time. I know I am limited because I will not rent a car but at age 75 I have no desire to do so since I will be solo and on a budget. I will check on line to see which places are easiest to get to via bus/ferry and then plan accordingly.
I had not read about Astypalea or Amorgos so now I will. I also just purchased books for background knowledge and getting a sense of place such as Mary Renault's THE KING MUST DIE. Since I travel solo a book is essential when dining alone/ hanging out on the beach or sitting on a balcony. I hope some places I stay have a book exchange. I will get Rick Steves guide and a Rough Guide. I have DK Top 10 Crete (2003) which will be handy to take along since I plan to spend a week in Crete.
I hope to make a report upon my return that might inspire other "golden oldies" to travel solo wherever they desire. If not NOW...then WHEN. I will never be younger/healthier/richer than I am now :)

Posted by
2189 posts

What a wonderful adventure this will be! Regarding food costs -- look for a hotel or b&b that includes breakfast in the price. In budget places, it may be as simple as Greek yogurt, bread and coffee, perhaps fruit. I haven't seen set menu prices for lunch, but for me, a huge fresh Greek salad and that wonderful Greek bread is a great lunch, around 5 euros. Or a gyro or souvlaki would be similarly priced. You should have no problem finding dinner around 15 euros, including a glass of wine, on the small islands we typically visit. We haven't spent much time on mainland Greece (and none on Crete), so I can't speak to prices there.

Our favorite thing to do is island hopping. Immediately upon arriving in Athens, we fly to our furthest island and hop via ferry to 3 -5 others, then usually fly back to Athens. Over the years, I have found some good strategies that you might find helpful for that part of your trip.

First, I recommend that you buy a copy of the Thomas Cook Greek Island Hopping guide. It's out of print now, but you can buy a used copy of the 2012 version from Amazon for $5.84. Don't count on the ferry routes and timing, or on hotel/restaurant recommendations & prices, as they can obviously change from year to year,

However, the book is still a wonderful resource for learning how ferries work within and between the various island groups. Study it, and you'll quickly see that combining Crete, Syros and Rhodes can be very difficult and expensive. It's easiest (and cheapest) to stick within one or two island groups (i.e. Eastern Cyclades, or Dodecanese). The book has some good sample itineraries. The Lonely Planet Greece book also has good sample itineraries that you should look at (you can get this book from your library).

Another good, easy source of itineraries is the Blue Star Ferry website. Blue Stars are big, reliable ferries with timetables showing regularly-scheduled routes. If you find a route that interests you, you can use these ferries almost like a hop-on, hop off bus. Hop on the ferry, go to an island, stay there a few days til the next ferry comes through, go to the next island. We did this from Kastellorizo (a gorgeous tiny island) through Rhodes, Tilos, Nisyros and Kos. Tilos was a lovely little place we would probably have never visited otherwise. Nisyros has an active (but not erupting) volcano, and you can walk into the caldera! Amazing. You could take this route to Astypalea, then hop over to Amorgos>Naxos>Antiparos and back to Athens for the mainland part of your trip. Or you could take the Blue Star up to Patmos, then make a quick hop to Samos and take a day trip to amazing Ephesus in Turkey.

There are, of course, other Greek ferry websites you can use as your trip gets closer, including www.gtp.gr/.

Lots of possibilities. Have fun planning!

Posted by
1223 posts

Two of my most important and frequently reference books are The Blue Guide to the Aegean Islands and Greek Island Hopping with the Blue Guide being the better of the two.

If you want to combine two wonderful Greek Islands off-season then I recommend Astypalea and Amorgos. You can fly to Astypalea and then take a ferry to Amorgos and ferry back to Piraeus.

Off-season at these two islands is a joy. Virtually no tourists on Astypalea (October) and just a few on Amorgos (October). Astypalea had one of the most beautiful Choras I've ever been to in Greece and Amorgos is just a gem of an island with it's world-famous monestary and beautiful Old World Villages on the east of the island. The rest of the island is rural, mountainous, goats/sheep, secluded beaches, hiking and just a wonderful Greek Experience.

I could say that about Tinos also which turned out to be even better than my research indicated with some of the most beautiful and little known Greek Villages I've been too.

Off-season is a great time to experience Greece . . . you'll save lots of money if you are not fussy and don't want an over-the-top room which is waste because you'll be spending more time outside of it than in. Spend your money on more important things like Greek Food!

I still recommend a car rental, especially on smaller islands with very limited public transportation. It would be a shame not to see those out-of-the-way areas if you going such a long distance. Bite the bullet, rent a car (off-season will get you probably 20-30 euros a day for a small car which is all you need) even for just a day or two. You don't want to go all that way without really experiencing some of the most beautiful areas of the Mediterranean!

And don't let your age interfere with a decision on anything. While I am not as "old" as you I am still considered a senior citizen but that doesn't stop my from hiking, walking, partying, hanging out, renting a car (which I feel is a mistake if you don't) and just acting like I did 30-40 years ago) which I am thankful for surviving!

Posted by
122 posts

Thanks CHARLENE and TOMMY ...YES I have a suggested itinerary from an old Lonely Planet Guide. I have not looked at Thomas Cooks Guide or Blue Guide to the Aegean. I will check 2 local libraries before I purchase.
Both of you suggested Astypalea + Amorgos so for sure I will google these destinations!.
CHARLENE -your dining tips are spot on. I don't have much control over the cost of admissions or transport. Some times I wont have much control over the cost of lodging but the FOOD budget is always more flexible. A 5 euro lunch and hopefully cheap breakfast in my rental.. Dinner will depend on how much $ remains after a day of sight seeing and snacks/drinks in a sidewalk café, On past trips, I found cheap take out dinner from local grocery/deli worked out ok while relaxing on my balcony. Of course, I will have at least one "splurge" dinner per destination! {I know prices drop once you walk away from the tourist squares/ waterfront spots.}
Your feedback has made me even more eager to begin reading and planning my birthday adventure~~
Ise TOso KahLOS Ef -haree- STOH Po -LEE carol jean from the USA

Posted by
122 posts

LESLEY Thanks for the feedback and encouragement. Do you have suggestions for budget rooms and/or meals on CRETE. would love to know!

Posted by
1223 posts

What we (I) normally do when in Greece is go to the local markets and buy food for breakfast and lunch and then do a little splurging for dinner.

You can get very good Greek Cheese (Feta), Greek Olives (an unbelievable variety), tomatoes, cucumbers and wine at low prices for lunches and buy local fresh made bread for breakfast along with coffee and/or baked goods from local bakeries. It's a lot better and cheaper than eating out for those two meals.

Most Greek Tavernas, especially off-season can offer you wonderful meals for under 10 euros. I have gotten great full course meals at around 8-9 euros, throw in bread at a very nominal price and a little wine and you are in heaven for far less than you would spend back home.

Dining out in Greece is very inexpensive and you'll get quality and quantity at prices that make Rome, Paris, London, New York Lisbon, Barcelona, etc. look like a rip off!

Of course, my tastes may be different than yours. However, I grew up in a Greek-American household and have a good idea of what real Greek Food is all about . . . I am not an food connoisseur but know good local food at good prices and at tavernas that cater more to locals than tourists.

If you want a romantic over-the-top meal then I'm sure you can find that . . . but if you want what locals want and eat then you can do very well at very affordable prices.

Posted by
122 posts

HI TOMMY I don't think any romantic dining is on my SOLO agenda LOL I am glad to hear that fresh bread at bakeries will be reasonable. The cheese/wine/olives sound perfecto. When I spent 8 weeks in Slovenia/Croatia I often got meat+cheese at the deli counter and bread at the bakery. I carry tea bags and drink mixes that can perk up bottled water. I loved stopping at cafes for a cold drink or walking along the sea with a gelato. I like to sample street food plus I like local dishes at MOM/POP places. ON Trip Advisor I can put in name of town and then click on "cheap eats" as a starter but the best strategy is walk the neighborhoods away from touristy streets . Then I check the sign boards...look for locals not tourists. If I can get dinner for 10 euro or less then I can stay within my budget. Thanks for the encouraging words.

Posted by
91 posts

What an exciting trip to plan for. Just a few pointers:

Easter 2018 is the weekend of April 7th, so you'll miss it.
The last couple of weeks of your trip are coming into high season in some places (eg Crete)
Rent rooms are based on a room cost, with few single rooms, so not so easy to find in your budget
Some of the bigger holiday resorts which have a large volume of apartments will give you those prices, but possibly not if booked early
In Crete, the North Central-Eastern side has this glut of apartments in the big touristic resorts, but the places I would recommend for you don't & are a little more expensive, rooms often nearer E50 , but there should be deals to be done if you are happy to spend time looking.

In Crete I recommend for you some time in the wonderful Venetian city of Chania, then in the Apokoronas region, which is full of beautiful, tiny, ancient villages in the hills leading to the White Mountains, with the little town of Kalyves, or the small beach resort of Almyrida to base yourself. Lovely walks through olive & orange groves. Then instead of bus travel, how about a few days of ferry travel, along the South coast - the ferries go from Paleochora, past the bottom of the Samaria Gorge, to picture postcard Loutro & along to Hora Sfakia, & Sougia along the coast could be a nice place for a few days quiet. The best walking hill country around, You should be able to get accommodation at this time of year for your budget, perhaps not in Loutro, which is very popular.

The food in Crete is awesome! In my village, a huge meal, with a 'meze' style starter & a main course home made, most home grown, locally sourced, fresh ingredients, with often a free dessert & raki, can be as little as E10! Eat like the locals, with very little fish or meat, plenty of salads & vegetables. For daytime, a spinach or cheese pie or similar, maybe a tomato & fruit from a greengrocer, delicious & inexpensive.

Posted by
122 posts

HI Jwugg from Crete Love the insider tips. I will need to see how easy it is to arrange that coastal trip you suggested. The southern coastal sights would be spectacular I am sure. Love the idea of small towns and villages "off the beaten path".is there a website you can suggest for this ferry route?
I am happy to see I can eat a great meal for under 10 euro if I stick to mainly fresh fruit and veggies with not so much meat! sounds healthy and hearty.

Posted by
4614 posts

Love the OP's approach to life. Question about island hopping in Greece-is language a problem. I'm thinking people may not speak English on non-touristy islands.

Posted by
1223 posts

cjleisch:
The main meat in Greece is pork! You would think goat or lamb. However, those animals are more valued for their milk rather than their meat. Cheese and yogurt making in Greece is a huge business and worth more than slaughtering animals on a one-time basis. However, Greeks will kill a goat/sheep for special occasions like weddings, births, religious/feast days, etc. Chicken is also very popular. Of course seafood is a main ingredient for protein but even in Greece the oceans are overfished especially by big commerical fleets, not local fishermen.

You'll be surprised by the low prices to eat out. Obviously you can spend a lot of money for over-the-top gourmet restaurants anywhere, especially those who present food in a more "work of art" presentation. As for me . . . if I want a work of art I'll go to a museum. I want locally grown food, low-fat meat (chicken, pork [depending on the cut] & seafood) Don't expect the usual (USA) seafood of cod, haddock, flounder, halibut, lobster, but more local types of fish which is not available in the US.

I've never left a Greek taverna still hungry because you get a good-sized meal at affordable prices. Many tavernas will throw in a free appetizer, free dessert and free after-dinner drink. Here in the US you'll not get anything free!

And even more fun is asking to see what's "good today". You'll be taken to the kitchen or serving area and have an option of a la carte dining with a little of this, a little of that and a lot of those! Try that in the US and you'll be thrown out!

One of the joys of travel to other countries is the food. Be an adventurous eater . . . try the local food, delicacies, drinks and as they say: When in Greece do as the Greeks Do!

Posted by
122 posts

Love your take on dining. I will try "what's good today" so I can sample local foods. You didn't mention street food/ no carts in tourist areas? or food trucks?

Posted by
2189 posts

I've been to 20 (mostly small) Greek islands and don't recall ever seeing a food cart, let alone a food truck. Maybe in Athens? And only the larger, more popular islands (Rhodes, Santorini, Mykonos, Naxos) have what I'd call tourist areas.

You will get your meals from tavernas, or souvlaki/gyro shops, or cafes (coffee shops, usually with old Greek men sitting outside with their worry beads). These places line the streets and harbors, to serve tourists and locals alike. Most of them have their own seating area, usually out front. You can also pick up food in markets, many of which have a deli case where you can buy small portions of salami, cheese, etc.

Posted by
1223 posts

As Charlene mentioned I never saw "food trucks" anywhere in Greece. "Street Vendors" are rare . . . there may be vendors selling fruits, chestnuts, roasted corn on the cob, baked goods, etc., mostly in larger towns/cities. There will be so many tavernas that it may be difficult to decide where to go.

Look for patrons that "look" Greek, menus written mostly in Greek, avoid places that have fancy photos of food (maybe good, but geared to tourists). Don't overlook tavernas that seem to be a dive but end up serving the best of traditional Greek food.

Solo travelers sometimes get a little self-conscious about dining out, but after a few glasses of wine you'll hardly notice whether you are alone or not! Taverna owners are welcoming, happy to meet any request and waiters/waitresses are not constantly stopping by and asking if everything is all right or can I get you anything else.

You'll get seated quickly, served quickly then you'll almost will have to lasso the owner/waiter for your bill.

Eating in Greece is a slow and enjoyable process . . . which is uncommon back in the US where wait-staff are almost shoving you out the door before you finish eating!

Posted by
29 posts

I recommend ferryhopper as a source of boat info. It shows many indirect routes and slow boats as well as highspeed direct options.

Posted by
122 posts

I agree tablecloths and English menus are a dead give away...I see that and off I go...I like specials of the day written on a black board, patrons that "look" Greek/ small crowded tables. I am totally at ease dining alone after doing it in the USA and other countries. I always have a book and my journal to distract me if I grow tired of people watching. I also find it easy to chat with fellow travelers of any age..."oh what did you order? It looks so good/ have you been you been to the ________museum/ historic site/ " I can usually tell if they are open to chatting or seeking solitude. If a place is crowded and I am at a table that seats 3 or4 I often ask a solo traveler if they want to sit at my table instead of waiting for their own table. I have met some interesting people by doing this!