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Peloponnese / Mani March 2023

My wife and I are seasoned independent, active senior travelers. We have been to Greece once a few years back when we visited Santorini, Naxos, Athens, Delphi, and Nafplio in November all using public transportation i We just loved it. We will be staying in Athens for 3 nights, arriving from Spain after visiting our daughter who lives in Valencia for 5 nights and a few days in Madrid. I know many people on this forum advise to visit Athens at the beginning, which we did on our first trip. That worked well for us then but being already acclimated we prefer starting there and then taking it slow.

On March 4, we will be picking up a rental car at the airport for 25 days and hope to slowly explore the Peloponnese, ideally mostly from a few bases. We previously enjoyed Nafplio very much, but we were only there for a couple of days so this time we are considering a week stay. Our interests are mostly cultural, just walking around checking things out, nature hiking, mountains, eating (vegetarian and fish). We are not hanging out at the beach people which is good considering the time of year we will be there. We have considered Meteora but are hesitant given how far out of the way it is, especially since we have already been to Delphi which is kind of on the way.

We are open to suggestions.

Which direction to travel?

Is this a good amount of time?

We are trying to be less is more travelers, but should we consider a day trip to Hydra from Ermioni?

Should we reconsider Meteora?

We will be returning the car to the airport before catching our 1:30 flight to London for a few days before flying back home to SFO.

Thanks!

Posted by
11056 posts

You have time to enjoy and explore this area. Be sure to include Byzantine Mystras in your itinerary. We did a day trip from Napflion to the island of Spetses and enjoyed it. We drove out to a location where we could take a water taxi across to the island. We were surprised and pleased that Spetses was so green as we had recently been in the arid Cyclades.

Posted by
1152 posts

I was in the Peloponnese this past October for 13 days split between 3 locations: Nafplio, Gythio & Petalidi.

Each different from each other which adds to the charm and uniqueness of the Peloponnese.

I went clockwise from Nafplio (3 days), down the coast, then cut over to Leonidio, then south to Gythio (5 days), then north towards Sparta, cut over through the Langada Pass (a must as it is truly spectacular) then west to Petalidi (5 days). Each served as a great base to explore.

I would highly recommend the Cadogan Guide to the Peloponnese. While last published in 2008 it's still relevant and has more info than any other guide. A option would be the Bradt Guide, newly published, more color but far less info. More of a "Reader's Digest" guide (condensed) to the Peloponnese.

Since you have 25 days you should cover most of the Peloponnese, but bear in mind it involves a lot of driving as most roads while very good are slow going due to the terrain like mountains, coastline, villages, not to mention stopping for the many photo ops. Then the time to visit each site/village you stop at. There is a major highway down the middle of the Peloponnese which is in excellent condition, decent views if you need to make time but the back and secondary roads are where the "real" Greece is.

I did a trip report on another forum including photos which may help you decide where to go, see and do.

https://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowTopic-g189483-i1277-k14200587-Peloponnese_Trip_Report_Sept_25_Oct_12-Peloponnese.html

I also recommend some type of navigation system. I used Google Maps and it came in handy. I would still be lost in the mountains without it (I guess that wouldn't be a bad thing!) Paper maps are almost useless as they tend to be large, ungainly and difficult to read even with a passenger trying to figure out where to go and how to get there.

Meteora may be do-able from Athens but shouldn't be part of the Peloponnese.

Hydra is indeed lovely but would involve most of the day to get there, wander around and return. OK if you have the time and need to see an island if you want to do it on your own. However, there is a day cruise from Tolo, near Nafplio through Pegasus Travel which includes Hydra/Spetses but it's a full day and a lot of time on a boat with a couple hours on each island.

Most people save Athens for last and make sure you get back at least one day prior to your flight in case of any delays due to a number of reasons.

Posted by
4217 posts

Lucky you! I only spent ten days, Nafplio-Kardamyli-Zatouna, and I'd do it all again but want to get back one day to go into the Mani, west coast (Methoni-Pilos). I highly recommend the Bradt Guide.
I know it is nowhere near as dramatic as Meteora, but there are monasteries in the Dimitsana/Stemnitsa area with lovely hikes. It's an easy drive back to Athens from there (I was told many from Athens come there for weekends), so it would make a nice finale to a loop around the Peloponnese.

Posted by
1 posts

As you probably experienced on your last trip there, traveling in Greece during the off-season can be great, but it can also be frustrating as the listed hours for things like museums and historical sights often become more like "suggestions" at that time of year (i.e. if no one's been by in a while, they'll close early or maybe not even open at all if the weather is less than great.)

If you're going to Meteora for a few days for the monasteries and hiking around, it might be worth the trip, but otherwise, it's really out of your way.

Hydra is great to visit and hike around on, but at that time of the year getting to the islands can sometimes be a bit dodgy depending on the weather (boats canceled or just rough seas). Pegasus cruises out of Tolo (about 10 minutes by car from Nafplio) operates cruises there and back also stopping at Spetses, but I don't think their season starts until mid-May at the earliest.

Definitely bring rain gear. It's not like Ireland, but it can get pretty wet in the late winter/early spring.

Posted by
260 posts

Thank you all for your suggestions.
Based on the collective input and additional research…

We have decided against going to Meteora or to Hydra. Another time, another trip.

We will do a combination of bases and perhaps a few short stays on the way in an effort to keep driving reasonable. We recently completed a 5+ week driving tour of New Zealand with similar Spring weather issues and slow 2 lane roads that take longer than Google says. We combined bases with occasionally short stopovers along the way and it worked out well especially if we went short distances with hiking or sightseeing along the way.

We will order the Brandt Guide from our local bookstore and see if we can get a copy of the Cardogan guide.

A few things are still unclear.
Any opinions about Olympia? We will be visiting the various antiquities along the way. I am not sure if it is worth the drive out there for such a heavily touristed sight. We could spend the time elsewhere. We have been to Delphi and enjoyed it (except for the eating choices) ,despite the tour groups, by getting there as early as possible.

Do you think Kardamyli will be too deserted in March? For visiting, for hiking?

suki… Mystras for sure. Spetses sounds nice depending on ferry issues in March

tommyk5…Lots of intriguing suggestions for sure. I like your suggested bases and will likely include some or all of them. And Langada pass seems like a must for us. What a nice trip report and pictures! We do use Google maps and find them most helpful. I download the offline versions just in case we lose signal.

valadelphia… Dimitsana/Stemnitsa sounds like a must see for us. We will try and include that.

sdmarions…. Thanks for the reminder about the weather. We almost always travel off season so rain is therefore always in the mix. It’s our tradeoff. Sometimes we get lucky but best to be prepared and thanks for your insights about Meterora and Hydra and your reminders about off season hours etc.

Posted by
4217 posts

Any opinions about Olympia? We will be visiting the various
antiquities along the way. I am not sure if it is worth the drive out
there for such a heavily touristed sight. We could spend the time
elsewhere. We have been to Delphi and enjoyed it (except for the
eating choices) ,despite the tour groups, by getting there as early as
possible.

Do you think Kardamyli will be too deserted in March? For visiting,
for hiking?

If you make it that far west, then I would probably include Olympia. Honestly Nemea scratched that itch for me -- it is so small and easy. What I would absolutely not miss (in addition to Mystras, I feel the same as the others who mentioned it) is ancient Messene (two hours south of Olympia). In late May we had the site practically to ourselves and it was amazing. We fit it in en route from Kardamyli to Zatouna. We planned to stop at Mystras en route from Nafplio to Kardamyli, but we ended up going from Kardamyli on a drizzly day instead.

I think Kardamyli might be a safe bet in March but it was definitely quiet in May. Lots of great hiking there.

Posted by
1152 posts

Regarding Olympia, I would highly recommend Messini which is one the best and least known archeological sites in Greece.

Very large site, well taken care of, neat, laid out with signage, beautiful rural location and hardly anyone there early October.

See my photo link in previous post which includes Messini. It is an awesome site but can't compare it with Olympia as I haven't been there.

However, from those who have been to both most recommend Messini over Olympia if you have to choose between them.

Re: Cadogan Guide is probably only available from on-line book sellers like Abe Books or Good Reads. I bought a used copy for less than $10 (US) including shipping.

Posted by
260 posts

valadelphia and tommyk5....Thanks for your additional comments. They are very helpful. So much to see and do !