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Nine days in Peloponnese--Help?

I'm trying to sort this itinerary to see if it makes sense. We are interested in some archeological ruins and history, but also hiking and nature. What we don't care for is too much wandering through villages and shops. Sadly, it won't be warm enough for beach time.
Arrive 29/3. Two nights in Athens.
31/3. Get car midday (recommendations welcome) See Corinth, Epidaurus, arrive in Nafplion, stay two nights.
2-4/4 Drive to Kalamata, Two nights as a base for seeing the western side, Pilos, Methoni, Koroni.
We considered driving down the coast to Kardamyli, but I am afraid of steep, scary roads and it looks like the best thing is to backtrack up to take the 71 down to Sparti. So I am not sure where to spend the last two nights. There are a lot of towns people rave about, but it's not clear what one would do in them.
I know Aeropoli would be a great place for a hike. We definitely want to go to the Kastania Caves and Monemvasia. It would be good to head north for the last night, though our flight on 7 April is at night, we probably would want to drop the car and spend the afternoon in Athens.
Thanks in advance. It's all still changeable if this plan sucks. My husband doesn't love driving, that is why I ruled out long distances like Delphi.

Posted by
3426 posts

We are renting a car for a trip to the Peloponese in May from Athens Car Rental and got a very good price if you want to check them out.

We will be in the Peloponese for 16 nights so twice as long as you. A few comments.

I would not stay in Kalamata. We are staying 3 nights in Pilos because I thought it involved the least driving for day trips and then one night in Koroni. I would decide what you want to see and use that to decide where to stay. Koroni is probably most charming but for what we wanted to see, we decided it wasn’t centrally located enough.

We are staying in both Kardamyli and Aeropoli and in my research it is Kardamyli that has hiking.

Montemvasia is a ways. Maybe eliminate if want to avoid driving?

Posted by
3594 posts

Since you don't particularly enjoy wandering through villages and shops, I agree with BethFL that Kalamata isn't the right base for you. It's a large city, not a village, and not representative of the Peloponnese, which, in principle, isn't a region where one goes to see typical urban environments (the same goes for Sparta and Tripoli).

You don't want to drive long distances, but Pylos is even further from Athens than Delphi (and via a route with many more winding roads). Although all the roads are in excellent condition and very safe, this also means more driving time and less time for sightseeing and hiking.

Given the limited time you have, I don't see how you could also plan a detour to Montemvasia.

On this map you'll find some ideas for visits and hikes.

https://www.google.com/maps/d/edit?mid=1HzqyEorKrUZxc5LjPjlvG2utnKof78E&usp=sharing

Posted by
13 posts

Thanks much. I felt Kalamata was a good base, and near to Messini at least. I don't expect it to be charming, but we have dietary requirements, so we want to maximize our options by staying in a bigger town. It will also shorten the driving the following day.
I was thinking of the hike up to the Profitis Ilias Church in Areopoli, but if there isn't much else there, we can skip it. Sorry for my lack of enthusiasm, this week was an add-on to a late March trip because my husband wanted to see Greece (he's never been).

I understand the distance from Athens to Pilos is far, but it is integrated to a circuit that sort of starts in Nafplion, if that makes sense. I see the road may be a bit scary to Pilos, but I have to live with some of that. I'm fine with curves, it's steep cliffs I have a problem with. Thanks for the link to that map, it's really great. I will save it.

So we are not going so Sparti, I mentioned it the route through which we would head toward Monemvasia. You say I don't have time; are we talking about the same place? I ask because transliterated spellings have already created some confusion for me! It is only 2,5 hrs from Kalamata. I have tried to maintain a pretty limited geography I think. I prefer not to stay only one night in a place, but we might stay one night down in that area. Could you recommend a place on the way back north to stop for the last night?

Thanks.

Posted by
1430 posts

I stayed in a nice Greek Town called Petalidi on the right side of the left finger of the Peloponnese. It was a good base to explore Pylos, Methoni and Koroni.

Also a good base to get to Messini and a more relaxed Greek Vibe than Kalamata.

Another option is Gythio on the middle finger. Lovely town with a long waterfront, lovely back streets in Greek Neighborhoods, and lots of options for services. Also a good base to explore the Mani, Mystras and Monemvasia.

Also a lot easier to get to from Nafplio.

If interested you can check out a trip report with reports I did of one of my trips to the Peloponnese that may help with decisions.

FYI: Most of the roads anywhere in Greece are good whether in the mountains, coastline or driving through villages.

They are only dangerous ifyou drive dangerously.
https://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowTopic-g189483-i1277-k14200587-Peloponnese_Trip_Report_Sept_25_Oct_12-Peloponnese.html

Posted by
3426 posts

You are right that there is a fast route to Monemvasia. It never occurred to me to go north to pick up the tollway which you can do. There is a route through the mountains which is more scenic but certainly something you would want to avoid if you don't like steep scary roads. I found this on a travel site.

The Fastest Route (Via Highway & Sparta)
This is the most efficient and comfortable option for 2026, utilizing the modern toll road network.
Route: Kalamata → A7 Motorway (towards Tripoli) → Lefktro interchange → A71

One difficulty with Monemvasia is that you really have to go to the center of the peninsula to get back to Athens as there is no main road up the coast. It looks like it is four hours (you really need to add to these estimations though so I would think more like 5). If you want to be closer, you could drive to Cornith.

edit: to add what Tommy said, you might want to go to Gytheo rather than Kalamata and see that part of the Peloponese instead. It would be less driving and still lots to see.

Posted by
13 posts

I'm in the weird position of having a day and no good way to use it. Yea, it was Google maps that sent me north to pick up 71. I found that frustrating at first! OK, wow. There is no way it is worth driving all the way down to Monemvasia (which I only know about because people online talk about "you have to go there") to spend a couple of hours walking around the old town. Kastania Caves are off the table because it would be close to 3 hrs of driving on scary roads to spend a couple of hours at the caves. Thank you Beth, for the detail about the roads; now I see why JoLui called Monemvasia a detour!

Total shift. Now we are looking into maybe one night in Pilos, then drive up the coast to Olympia, through Patras to Delphi (LOL) and back to Athens.

Posted by
3594 posts

Sorry if I'm having trouble understanding your logic, but with this new shift, you'll be spending about 50% more time driving.

You can do it that way, but keep in mind that you're defining many destinations that might be "must-sees" but are very far apart.

Olympia, Delphi, are just places where you'll only spend a few hours among other tourists and you'll be driving for hours to get there.
So, in fact, you'll mainly be visiting the Peloponnese through a windshield. If that's okay with you, that's fine.

Also notethat archaeological sites close earlier during this season, typically around 3 or 4 PM at the latest.

Posted by
3426 posts

I am confused too. The route I copied for you is further miles wise but faster and less difficult driving. There are tollways in Greece and driving on them is usually more efficient time wise even if further miles-wise.

We are spending the night in monemvasia in the old town. So you could do that too. You also could visit Mystras the next day.

OLympia is very crowded. We are skipping it. We saw Nemea when we visited Nafplio which you could do also if you add a night to Nafplio. Two nights isn’t very long. And you are doing even more driving.

Posted by
13 posts

First of all, thanks for the replies, Really. You're not the only ones who don't see the logic. That last iteration comes from thinking how stupid it is to drive hours to see one small place of moderate interest and then backtracking for hours. Once that was off the table, we just figured the only option is to head up the coast. Believe it or not, I have done a lot of research, so we were going to see Nemea while based in Nafplion. I alluded earlier that people mention charming towns and there is nothing to do there. No judging, but we are not the types to wander around a cute village and sit in cafes for extended periods. We live in Europe, so in some ways that is regular life. I'm NOT saying we want to rush from site to site. A sincere question: 3 nts in Pylos and 1 in Koroni, what will you do for those days? I keep hearing Gytheio but I still don't get why? There doesn't seem to be much of interest there.

So I had Perplexity calculate it. Actual driving time doing my original plan with the final leg being Kastania Caves back to Athens is 13-14 hrs. The route I last mentioned, with the final leg Delphi to Athens is about 11-12hrs. I know those big-name sites will be crowded, that's the nature of the beast nowadays. I don't like the idea either for what it's worth. If I can book another night at the hotel in Nafplion I will, maybe a day trip to Methana or Poros.
Sorry, Beth, a bit confused, do you mean the route you mentioned from Kalamata to Rt 71? That is the route I mentioned at first which avoids Kardamyli. I guess you feel it's worth driving all that way to see Monemvasia--because you have a longer trip? Cutting that leg means I have nothing but Athens-Nafplion-Messenian Peninsula. Adding Mystras on adds 1,15, which seems reasonable. I stiil have a couple more days.

Posted by
3594 posts

I confess I'm completely lost with all these possible destinations and changes. I don't even know if Kastania Cave is on one of the itineraries or both, and the same goes for Pylos, Monemvasia, and Aeropoli. I'm not even sure in what order they're listed, lol.
So it's difficult to compare.

We probably don't travel in the same way, since we spend a lot of time stopping along the way, like typical Europeans who wander around villages, sit in seaside cafes for a break, or in tavernas for lunch and a short hike in the surrounding area. It's actually our favorite part, especially in the Peloponnese.

Visiting an archaeological site or a Byzantine fort is also interesting, but we don't make them our base because they only take up 2 or 3 hours of an entire day. As a result, it took us almost 3 weeks to do roughly the itineraries you're planning.

However, I still believe that without rushing, in just six and a half days (if I've calculated correctly), with all the travel time between points, it will be difficult for you to fit everything you want to do — hiking, sightseeing, nature - into your itineraries (taking into account the closing times of the sites).

But it's your vacation, not mine.

Posted by
3426 posts

As far as what we plan to do in Pilos for three nights and Koroni for one, I don't anticipate having any trouble filling our time.

We are coming from the Athens Airport, having spent the night before nearby. Goggle says 4 hours. I think it will be able six by the time we stop to see the Cornith canal and later for lunch. That means we won't arrive until mid afternoon at the earliest. So we will have two full days.

I expect to spend one of the days in Pilos, seeing castles and the archeological museum. We also might take a boat ride in Narvarina Bay or even rent a boat. Our son who is traveling with us (along with his wife) enjoys driving a boat.

The second day we will drive to Nestor's Palace, and hike to Voidhokilia beach.

On the way to Koroni, I plan to stop in Methoni to see the fortress. In Koroni itself, there is a citadel and a lovely beach as well as a charming town.

As far as Gytheo goes, it is more of a base to explore than a site itself, although it seems to be a pleasant enough town. We are spending two nights there and planning to visit Mystras, a winery, and Mavrovouni beach. You could easily use it as a base to visit Monemvasia, although we decided to spend the night.

I also do not like to spend all my time seeing ruins which seems to be how you are organizing your trip. Thus we are planning on visiting a winery, an olive oil factory, two caves, doing some hiking, a boat ride, and beach time as well as visiting ruins. Your priorities obviously may differ.

Posted by
13 posts

We have sort of a low boredom threshold. The places you mentioned are all in my original post. We are not basing ourselves to be near one particular site, but I don't like backtracking a lot. I think being based in one place can mean you drive to and from activities every day. I added a day to Nafplion to do a day trip to Methana. So that gives us four nights to go to Mystra, then on to the Messenian peninsula and back to Athens. I'm okay with this.
I really don't want to see all ruins. We will hike a lot and if weather permits, we would look into something like boat excursions. I appreciate all the input.

Posted by
6632 posts

I would share the hikes we did, but the drives would not be to your liking! Kardamyli and the Stemnitsa area were both great for hikers.

Posted by
3594 posts

Pylos and Navarino Bay (which BethFL will be visiting soon) are an example of a place that isn't a major must-see, but where you can spend a day. It was the site of a major naval battle that proved decisive during the Greek War of Independence against the Ottomans almost 200 years ago.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Battle_of_Navarino

The wrecks of ships sunk during this battle still lie in the bay, but without going diving, you can take a lovely walk along the entire bay. The archaeological museum of Pylos is actually the former French barracks.

I think I've already mentioned this, but the person in charge of the reconstruction of the entire region, which had been devastated during the war, was a French general member of the Morea expedition

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Morea_expedition

I mention him as an anecdote because he owned a castle near my house (which still exists) and was buried in the village cemetery (his grave isn't very well maintained).

https://photos.app.goo.gl/A6yZjy4etn3aMbT98

Posted by
13 posts

Thank you! Interesting history! There is a post from 2 years ago in which you talked about the perilous (to me) roads and your feelings about Monemvasia that was really helpful as well. So this holiday will have way more driving than we'd like, but now it is what it is. If it feels like too much, we'll make cuts! Have a good evening.