Naxos Trip Report

Thursday 16th October

Breakfast was buffet style for the continental options, and a hot dish can be ordered. You had the choice of eating in the dining area, or on your patio. With the sensational view we had, no way were we eating in a dining area. We had our now usual starter of yoghurt, honey and nuts, followed by an omelette with a side of bacon.

We set out for a long walk around Chora, Naxos town. We visited the Venetian castle, the archaeological museum and just generally walked. There were nowhere near as many shops as I’d expected but that didn’t worry me.

We had lunch by the port, we shared meze of more zucchini balls, fried Naxian cheese, which we didn’t enjoy as it was in batter. We also had meatballs and a large Greek salad, with a small jug of local white wine.

We then returned to our room, but it was then quite hot, so we had more time in the hot tub, some sun baking by the pool.

The hotel has a small pool overlooking the ocean, but it is literally freezing, so we much preferred the hot tub.

We decided to take a taxi to and from our chosen restaurant, To Eleniko, last night and I’m so glad that we did. It was only €15 each way, but it was a long, complicated journey, which if we’d walked it would have taken ages, and we’d probably have got lost.

The restaurant is one of the highest rated on the island and for good reason. It was more inland so no views, but a perfect courtyard to eat in. It was absolutely packed on a random Thursday in the shoulder season, so thank goodness we made reservations.

My husband G Rosto, a traditional Naxian dish of slow cooked pork, and I had Lamb Kleftiko, another traditional dish of slow cooked Lamb and vegetables, with a slice of feta on top. This was all wrapped in a baking paper parcel, and the flavours were amazing.

I’ve never like ouzo but we decided that we needed to try it in Greece. Neither of us much liked it so we reverted to our regular wine.

Dessert was a lovely orange syrup cake with ice cream.

Friday 17th October

Today we had booked a private driver from Naxos Sun Holidays to take us on a full day tour of the island. We started at the Temple of Demeter, and the accompanying museum. We continued to the village of Chalki where we had free time to wander, before visiting the Kitron Distillery and tasting the different strengths of this Naxian liqueur. We both preferred the strongest one so purchased a small bottle for after dinner. We also got to try the homemade raki, which I preferred to ouzo, but it was not something that I would buy to drink again.

We drove through Filoti, but didn’t have time to stop, instead we continued onto an olive oil press where they showed us how they have pressed olive oil for hundreds of years. We had an amazing olive oil testing, not just the usual oil dropped onto bread, but a complete oil and food pairing, including chillies, cheeses, potatoes and even cake. It was a fun way to spend an hour with another couple from Oregon.

We then drive to Apeiranthos, a village built of marble. We had lots of time to wander here, before lunch in a local restaurant where they served us a huge Greek salad, more Rosto and another dish of eggplant, diced veal, cheese and yoghurt. This was followed by a yoghurt dessert with lemon juice and rind, very refreshing.

Our final stop was the fallen statue, the Kouros, which was in a lovely shady spot. We were very lucky, and we managed to get ahead of two huge tour buses; we’d never have had the chance for photos with 80-100 others in that tiny spot.

We decided at that point that if the only way we could travel in the future was on a bus tour, we wouldn't bother, it looked awful.

We walked to dinner at a relatively highly rated restaurant not too far from us, about a 15-minute walk. The restaurant, Apostilis, was beautifully decorated and very busy.

We had a reservation, but when we said that, we were told to “find a table where you like”. We found a table and sat down, and things started well with an excellent complimentary starter of Naxian bread with cheese and a small bowl of pumpkin and vegetable soup. I ordered a chicken fillet marinated in a spicy whiskey sauce with mashed potatoes, and G ordered a pork steak with rice. I literally couldn't work out what cut of chicken I had, it was tough and chewy like poorly cooked breast, but it looked like a thigh. Either way I wasn’t eating it. G’s pork was no better, he ate the rice and left the rest. Luckily, we’d had a big enough lunch that we weren’t that hungry anyway.

The waiter came to clear and asked if we enjoyed the food. I would have thought that the fact we’d left most of it answered that question. We said that the meat wasn’t very tender and he replied, “oh that’s no good” and that was it. I must say that I cannot recommend Apostilis.

Saturday 18th October

We started the morning with another lovely breakfast on our terrace, before more wandering of the old town of Chora. I’ve read lots about the amazing little shops but frankly there wasn’t much although I did find a lovely Christmas tree ornament to add to my travel collection. G bought a shirt and a Naxian marble carving that I am sure we could live without, especially after seeing the price and the fact that the “artist” wouldn’t accept a credit card, so we had to go to the ATM for cash. He loves it though, so that’s the main thing.

We walked out along the path to where the symbol of Naxos was, the ancient Portara. We had a lovely view of this from our room and terrace but it was nice to see the monument up close. Of course, it was just last month that some fool posted pictures of himself hoisting a piece of the marble on Instagram, so naturally the fencing is now a lot higher. We still had a great view though with less than a dozen people around us.

After we left, the bus tours started, we beat those at least and then stopped for Freddo espressos at a little cafe out on the point. We passed a cute restaurant with nice port views so reserved a table for lunch, before watching the Blue Star ferry that we are catching tomorrow arrive and depart. At least we understand that system now.

We wandered the tiny streets for another hour or so, before our lunch. I couldn’t resist another serve of the zucchini and cheese balls, I’ll need to get the recipe for these when I get home! We also shared some “ham and cheese trumpets” which were delicious rolls of ham and cheese in a lovely flaky phyllo. On top of that we had chicken pitas, which we call gyros back in Melbourne. The starters were excellent, the pitas very nice, but our local Greek takeaway does far nicer ones. Of course, that is run by Greeks living in the world’s third largest Greek city, so not surprising that they do it well there too.

The waiter insisted that we had a dessert on the house. I tried to tell him I was far too full, but he wouldn't take no for an answer. I’m so glad he wouldn't. It was a small piece of what he described as an orange and semolina cake, and the taste was out of this world.

We returned to our room and spent the entire afternoon in the hot tub or reading on the terrace.

A highlight was getting an email saying we had won the upgrade challenge for our flight from Santorini to Rhodes. A full business class upgrade with lounge access for only €30. That is a winner.

Our last dinner at Doukato was just as good as on our first night.

I restrained myself from more zucchini balls and instead we tried something called Fava, a Greek mashed yellow split pea paste, with other things such as onions, garlic, olive oil and lemon. It was served with toasted thick Greek bread with yet more olive oil and garlic, and it was one of the best things I’ve ever eaten. I’ll be ordering this again for sure.

For main course I had sea bass with vegetables oven baked in a parcel and G had a veal party stuffed with cheese with fried Naxian potatoes.

As seems to always happen, they insisted on giving us a mini lemon dessert.

The next day we left for Santorini after a very enjoyable four nights in Naxos.

Good morning DebH! Kalimera!
So fun to read your trip report. I was in Naxos the week before you for 5 days and we thoroughly enjoyed every minute.
To Eleniko was also a highlight for us and we loved Oasis too (ate there for dinner twice).
If/when we return I will definitely consider the hotel you had….it sounds lovely.

Glad that you enjoyed it vmrunner.

Of all of Greece (and Istanbul), Naxos is the only place I would really consider returning to. I loved it there.

Deb

do you know that there is special Forum just for trip reports?

Nigel, I did know actually, but completely forgot.

Do you think I should post there as well, or just leave it here?