My wife and I want to spend 2 - 3 weeks hiking Naxos and Amorgos islands, mid September to mid October. If you are a traveler who has spent time on these islands, your suggestions would be helpful. We've been to Greece twice: Crete, Ionians, Vikos Gorge, but not the Cyclades, and not this late in the year.
Mid-September to mid-October is a good time to hike, avoiding the summer heat.
If you are used to hiking I guess you already know specialized websites like Wikiloc or Alltrails.
I would add another website which is a reference for the Cyclades islands (made by a Belgian hiker in love with Amorgos)
http://www.cycladen.be/IntroductionEng.htm
Once there you will also find detailed maps and information on possible hikes.
I'm guessing you're not just going to be hiking. Some members of this forum know Naxos very well, they will be able to help you according to your other preferences of activities and style of vacation.
Amorgos is much smaller (and very different) but also offers a lot of possibilities.
It has almost 10 times fewer inhabitants but has the second highest point of the Cyclades
Be careful when booking a ferry in Amorgos. There are two ports. Katapola and Aegiali.
There are also few buses, especially after the high season. It is essential to have a rental car.
Speaking of ferries, also know that a famous ferry the "Express Skopetilis" of the Small Cyclades Lines runs every day (except Sundays) between Naxos and Amorgos.
It also passes through the small Cyclades Islands: Ikaklia, Schinoussa, Koufonissia and Donoussa. If you have 3 weeks to spend in the Cyclades I suggest you also visit one of these islands which will be on your Naxos-Amorgos route
http://www.smallcycladeslines.gr/en/small-cyclades/
Finally, know that if you want to save time and secure your journey, it is possible, since Naxos has an airport, to take a flight to Naxos as soon as you arrive at Athens airport.
And because of the possibility of capricious weather which would prevent the ferries from sailing, it is preferable to keep a margin of one or two days (or more) to spend in Athens before your return flight.
In May of 2016, we enjoyed a wonderful week on Naxos, staying at Kalergis hotel on St. George beach. There's lots of information on Naxos on this forum ... I would just add that we found St. George beach to be a great location to explore the town.
Then we took the Express Skopelitis ferry to Katapola port in Amorgos, for 5 equally lovely days. In Amorgos, we stayed at a pension called Porto Katapola. We got a room with a huge balcony right on the harbor, and it was wonderful. Not fancy, but comfortable, with one of the friendliest hosts we've met in Greece. At the time, he had a large garden, and at the time of your visit he should be harvesting; I've heard that he shares produce with his guests.
We aren't really hikers, so hopefully others can help you there.
Thank you both for the above replies! Very helpful information and links, much appreciated. One question: we want to rent a car to drive into the interior. Is the drive any more direct from St George Beach than from Chora old town where we are presently considering lodging?
Hi -- about the Car Rental ... Chora (POrt Town) and Ag. Giorgios (St George) Beach are directly adjacent... in fact, adminisratively, The AG. Giorgios is PART of NAxos TOwn... Town hall itself is at very Southern end of Port "curve", above the seafront & ... and directly behind it are the beach homes/hotels. So there is NO difference. Is there a specific reason you'd to stay in the middle of Town (Chora) -- up on the heights -- or at far end by the causeway... rather than beach end? I've stayed in all 3 locations, off-season (May or Sept) and, from Experience, prefer Ag Giorgios, at end nearest town. Reasons: (A) Town - up high... great views if you pick right place ... BUT you can only get there walking up stairstep paths, dragging luggage... also, almost no food up in Kastro, so you go down for meals/snacks. And if you forget sunglasses? phone? a tiring climb back(B) On the causeway/Grotto side ...great views of Arch -- but in Fall it's Super WINDY - also, after dinner a looong hike uphill, and the "shortcut path" up the bluff unlit at night, not safe. (C) Ag. Giorgios -- while crowdy in High Season is the "goldilocks choice" in Spring or Fall... populated just nicely, and the magic of beach, tables in sand under starlight. and pre-breakfast strolls or quick dip.. in Sept the water is divine. To see how close beach/Grotta area are to Pier & town center - see Google map https://www.google.co.uk/maps/@37.1004443,25.3794921,2040m/data=!3m1!1e3
About a Car -- if you want to get an early start on an exploring drive around the island, I suggest renting the car at 7 at night or so, before dinner, pick it up & park in free parking lot near town square... then after dinner, drive it back to your lodgings (NOTE: you can only do this if staying in Ag Giorgios or over on the Causeway side of town -- no parking availble in center of port town). Why do I advise an evening pickup? Because Greeks work late (rental agencies are open until at least 9 pm), and then employees stay out even later.... so in the morning, business is uh, very sluggish. Red-eyed counter clerks are drinking coffee at 9:30... and they're "not sure where your car (reserved for 9 am) is, so if you'll just sit over there, I'll go find out. " Twice in my experience, with cars reserved for 9. we didn't drive away until well after 10 am. So the next time we strategized. This isn't a complaint, I'm just saying, this is Greece, plan accordingly. And it works out fine for a 24-hr rental --- after a days drive, you don't want the car after 7 pm anyway... return it on the way to dinner.
Is the drive any more direct from St George Beach than from Chora old
town where we are presently considering lodging?
Naxos Old Town and St George are in the same area.
Whether you are in St George beach or in old Naxos, it is the same thing, you will have to take one of the two or three roads that start from this area to go to other parts of the island.
Moreover, after mid-September and even if these are the busiest and most touristic places in summer, you will not have much parking or traffic problems in "town" or near St George beach.
In summary: this is not a problem.
If you were to be interested in the ease of travel from your accommodation depending on the activities you plan, it is better to study this for Amorgos which is an elongated strip of land with few roads and villages.
Katapola and Aegali, the two possible ports and "towns" of arrival are almost at both ends of the island.
From Katapola I know a hike that crosses Vroutsi and Arkesini and ends in a lost beach on the east coast (Ammoudi Beach)
But in my opinion the hiking possibilities are better from Aegiali than from Katapola.
For an even more "Cycladic" (and central) atmosphere, you have to go to Chora.
My last visit to Amorgos was in September 2019, there were still a few people but not too many.
To rent a car in Amorgos I recommend FM Rent a Car. They have an office in each port. It's a family business run by two very nice brothers, Yannis, the one from Aegiali knows a lot of slang expressions (but in French). They will rent you a car for 30€ to 40€ per day.. They have a website.
And to eat after a hike in the Aegiali area, a place among others, in the village of Tholaria, near the church:
Thalassino Oneiro-Sea Dream
Thank you Janet, for your thorough and detailed reply . Wise advice, indeed, re: both the lodging location, and the manner of renting a car. We'll abide by your gracious advice!
When we were in Naxos this past May, we rented a car from Smile Naxos Car Rental. They delivered the car to our hotel on St. George Beach at 9AM. They ask you what time you want the car delivered. The cost was 25 euros for the day.
[email protected]
These are the places we visited with our rental car: Temple of Demeter, Chalki, Moutsouna with a delicious fish lunch at Fish Net, Apeiranthos, and Apollonas.
I can recommend Hotel Palatia, which was recommended to us by Janet (the Greek expert).
Thanks, will check out Palatia. And recommendations by JoLui are very helpful, too. Just beginning to cobble together hikes etc on Amorgos; we will begin in Aegiali and do hikes around there; probably use Chora as a base on the other end. Hiking info in 7/13 reply are really great.