MIni trip report, 14 nights in July, had a wonderful time

This was our nicest weather day so we took the bus to Plaka, third stop. A young couple from Italy helped us, they said if they hear your accent you will be overcharged. We spent 20 euro for two beds and shade and it was wonderful, the told us the price went up to 30 euro the next day. The food we ordered was amazing and also had lemonade with fresh mint, that is my new favorite thing. Full nudity, male and female was on display. We rode bus back late afternoon and had a wonderful dinner at Meltemi and watched the best sunset on Naxos. So Greece is awesome in that the restaurants do not close for lunch siesta whatever you call it, we could eat a lunch/ dinner anytime of the late afternoon/early evening. Now the nowhere to eat breakfast at 8 am was a pain but we survived.

Next day we rented a car for the day to drive to all the places around the island. The car had a 1/4 tank of gas, we were told go to the gas station and show him where you are driving to on the map and he will guess how much you need to add so you can return it at 1/4 tank. We put in 25 euro and it was far too much. I think Apiranthos was my favorite town, but it was beautiful to stop and walk in several towns, all different. We drove to some of the beaches at the southern end of the island, beautiful and rocky. It was windy and cooler and almost 5 pm so we just put on our water shoes and walked into the water instead of swimming. I still can’t believe how cold the water was in July. We tried to do sunset at the Portara, but had forgotten our wind breakers so we ended up at the little corner beach by the bus station and watched the sunset there. We saw a wedding happening at the little church in the harbor earlier and then they took photos at the Portara while we were there and after sunset the bridal party walked through town while everyone clapped and yelled congratulations. The bridal party was from America, first time we heard American english on Naxos.

Our last day on Naxos was very cloudy and windy and so we walked around the old town in the morning and shopped. We did go to St. George beach in the afternoon and rented chairs, 25 euro. The wind was making very high waves, but we wandered out and were wet up to our waist very quickly. We were wind blasted and occasionally sand blasted, which we knew was going to happen but we have no control of the “beach day” weather. We ate dinner at to souvlaki tou maki and it was delicious. Armed with windbreakers we watched the sunset from the Portara, beautiful even with the clouds.

The next morning we checked out of our airbnb at 10:30 and walked to Melimilon to sit and eat brunch (delicious) while we waited for our plane to Athens at 1:35. We took a taxi, prearranged by the airbnb, (20 euro) to the airport from the restaurant. Flight was perfect and our checked bags arrived so we were off to our rented car, Sixt, at airport. We used our maps on greek sim card and headed off to Nafplio, stopping at the Corinth canal on the way. (No issues driving using maps.) Worth the stop, loved seeing it. We arrived rather late and parked at the wharf and walked to our hotel, Omorfi Poli Pension, apartment A1, loved this place. We ate at Aiolos Taverna, amazing food. We did get sprinkled on during dinner but it was warm and not a downpour so all was good. Walked to watch the sunset but clouds didn’t allow a full sunset, we did see a few rays peaking through. We walked around the edge of town to the Arvanitia beach from the the little light house, around the metal gates blocking off the path because of rockfalls a few years ago.

We had a wonderful buffet breakfast at our hotel at 8:30 and then headed to Epidarvos. We loved the theater and museum and walking around the sanctuary. We read through Rick’s tour in the book and it worked great for us. It was warm and sunny when we finished so we headed to Karathona beach. We had a terrible cold sandwich (worst food of the trip) and a cheap sunbed (5 euro) and swam in the ocean. Not impressed by this beach, but this is what we chose for the first beach day. I got to swim so overall great beach afternoon. We stopped at Palamidi Castle on our way back to town. It is enormous, we finished all our water walking around up there. I had teva walking sandals on and it was challenging, wear closed toe shoes in my opinion. We got cleaned up and ate dinner at Kakanarakis, it was very good, but I think the night before was better. Walked around town and took photos after dinner. There were gypsies and begging and kids in your personal space faster than you could blink.

Our second full day we woke to clouds and rain possibilities. After our beautiful buffet breakfast, we optimistically packed swimsuits, towels, water bottles and raincoats with us. We headed to Mycenae. There was a cruise ship in port and we got the last parking spot in the top circle lot. There were buses filling the middle. We again used Rick’s book and had a great tour. The cistern is closed and we were bummed as we had brought our headlamps. The beehive tomb was very cool to see also. Overall the number of people didn’t bother our touring. We stopped for lunch at Melinas Taverna in Mycenae and had a delicious lunch. As the clouds gathered steam we headed to Nemea and thoroughly enjoyed the temple and the stadium. Raindrops started on our walk back to the car after the second stop. We did drive by Kastraki and Tolo beaches so I could take a photo. We got take out pizza and waited for the rain to slow in our room. We did venture out for gelato and shopping with our raincoats. I really didn’t think we would need them this trip but we have used them.

We packed before our last wonderful breakfast and then headed off to tour ancient Corinth, love this place, read lots of signs enjoyed it all. We then successfully filled up gas at the last gas station on the toll road before the airport, it is right after the last toll, there are 4 tolls on the way to Nafplio. We returned the car and then decided we would take the train, 18 Euro for two. We felt like we were on the train from Naples to Sorrento as we were serenaded by a gypsy family, mom carrying baby and a cup for collection, dad playing the accordion and little boy following up the rear with his cup. Hotel was less than 15 minute walk from the syntagma square station, very easy to get to. We were able to check in right away and dump our stuff. The Athenians Art Apartments, view studio, the shower was huge, balcony and chairs amazing and on tip toe view of the parthenon, location very easy to walk to everything. We were getting hangry at this point so we found good gyros, not the best, despite the good ratings. We then walked to the Acropolis museum, maybe a 10 minute wait to buy the ticket. I loved this museum, glad we did this before going up to the Acropolis. We used the guide in Rick’s book, it worked well. We then headed up to tour the Acropolis, tons of people and tons of wind, again maybe a 10 minute wait for a ticket (combo), 5:45ish time. We walked and looked and listened to Rick in our ear as we toured, loved it. We were practically blown off the edge but it was great to finally see up close. We came down and walked around the sides and then headed for gelato, Davinci was also delicious.

We headed off at 8 am to walk and listen to Rick on our city walk tour of Athens. What we quickly learned is old churches were not open that early (we did go in them later) and loukoumades is open but does not serve the signature dish until 9:30ish they said. So we had a street vendor round donut with sugar, amazing and the bread circle with sesame seeds, yum but definitely not to be eaten after the sugar circle. We finished most the tour with rick and then had a great meal near the Agora, Antica Restaurant and Cafe. The food was good but the misting fans on you the whole time were amazing. Athens was to be 91 that day, warm in the sun and we were thankful for shade and spray fans. We then visited the Agora and the museum and again used Rick’s audio guide. Sometimes it was hard to tell where you were and the paper map from the book was helpful to get back on track, still worked very well. We walked back to the apartment to cool off and then headed out for a light dinner and shopping as the evening cooled off. We also went up to the top of Mars hill, very slippery but great view and meaningful stop.

Today was our last day and the temp was to be 95. We visited the temple of zeus and the gardens and the panathenaic stadium. The stadium has a great audio guide included (10 euro each- but did not include a toilet) We headed to Lukumades and enjoyed the delicious treat. We then walked through Psirri and the markets, doing Ricks walk. We then rested and cooled off down in the apartment and did some packing. We enjoyed our last meal at Scholarhio, delicious! We took a taxi up to the Archaeological museum, 20 euro from the restaurant. We used Rick’s audio guide and throughly enjoyed the whole museum. We left right before closing and walked back to the Plaka and enjoyed a last gelato. We were in bed by 10 as we had a taxi coming at 3 am to take us to the airport. We didn’t sleep that long but in 24 hours we were back home and our luggage arrived also at PDX after transiting through AMS.

Wonderful trip, not perfect, but we were glad we got to Greece without complication and enjoyed so much of what we had planned without any major issues. A win on all accounts. Thanks for the help planning, maybe not directly, but I read so many posts and they all had something that helped plan our trip.

Wow. Northwestern, I don't remember you posting many queries, but you must have done a LOT of reading on other Threads on this forum. You really followed closely the itinerary suggested so often by us "Greece vets" and am delighted it worked well for you. I almost felt as if I were following your footsteps thru Santorini, Naxos, Nafplio, Athens, murmuring mm yes, that was a good choice, what's next. It sounds as if you proved the maxim: plan carefully, and you'll be carefree... minimum hassles, maximum enjoyment. And I hope newbie planners follow your example about the Rick steves Audio guides in Athens... they work well, and enable you to sightsee on your OWN timetable, not constricted by a large group and inconvenient schedule.

My only downer was reading the huge price hikes for sunbeds/sunbrellas on Naxos.. but it was bound to happen.. and those going in May or September may get a sllight break.

Yes Janet I read a lot of posts. A lot of info is out there and if you know the travel style that works for you it is easy to adapt. I did add more time to santorini as I booked the trip 6 weeks before we left and I knew flights were a mess. If I had to lose time it would be fine to lose it here, but we ended up getting our whole trip and I am very grateful- what some people went through sounded miserable. I must say when we got to Athens my husband said he wished we had done the big city first and then relaxed on the islands. I was completely opposite. I would never have been able to enjoy the history part as much as I did if I had been jet lagged. I also can be ready to leave to go home when I am in a big city much easier than a small island.

Northwestern, Most of us agree with you about Athens last, and if he'd tried the other way, your husband might agree also, in retrospect. Athens first, when you are jet-lagged, exhausted, in a bustling major national capital that doesn't even use the same alphabet -- many people find that major sights just pass in a blur! Recovering at an island means a lower pace, reenergizing, and importantly, just figuring out how Greece "works" (how to get around, get info, by tickets etc) makes you MUCH more efficient about organizing Athens sightseeing. Also... just being immersed in Greece for a week or two, seeing ruins, landscapes, a museum, learning a little about the nation's struggles & accomplishments -- in places like Crete, Nafplio, ancient temples, amazing centers of ritual and art like Epidaurus and Nemea-- then make the world-famous landmarks & museum treasures in Athensa resonate so much more. It sounds as if this happened for you. I hope that first-timers reading your report will bookmark it as a guide!

Excellent report on a very comprehensive, well planned trip.

Enjoyed your report, especially since we took much the same route. I felt like I was back in Greece. We did like Karathona beach a lot more than you did, although we didn't have any sandwiches there. I liked that it was sandy, unlike the town beach, and that it had facilities, unlike Tolo beach.

Great trip report. I suspect that you may have picked up the Greek bug and will soon be planning another visit.

stanbr,
While we loved our trip to Greece I don't think we will be headed there again soon, there is so much more we want to see. Currently I am trying to replan our trip that didn't happen in April 2020 to Australia for summer 2023. Only one hotel is still willing to use my deposit that I paid in 2019 as my deposit for 2023. Also prices are up 40% as I have just repriced the exact trip for insurance purposes.