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Itinerary Refresh/Recheck

My husband and I are finalizing our Sept. 2019 Greece itinerary and want to ask a few questions before we start booking lodging, etc.

We are older and not in the best of shape. We like walking around cities and museums as well as swimming. I snorkel. We've driven in Ireland and Italy and are undaunted by what we read about driving in Greece. :-) We've learned to plan on one major site each day, but will happily fill in quick stops along a journey. Our interests are centered around looking at/ visiting ancient/prehistoric art and sites (I call them 'pagan'). We marvel at the connections us moderns can make to people from 1000s of years ago through their cities and art. We tend to skip Medieval stuff and are uncertain how we'll feel about Byzantine. Our next passion is for excellent food, and that looks like an absolute no-brainer in Greece. My husband doesn't drink alcohol, so wineries and the like don't get planned into our itinerary.

While we don't have a budget and are able to splurge, we generally don't spend a lot on lodging (since we know we'll mostly be sleeping in the room rather than hanging out there). We will always pay a bit more for a private bath and quiet room. We're good with taking local transportation, or taxis, and plan to rent a car on Crete and to drive on the mainland.

Right now, our 3 week trip looks like this:
Sept 3rd and 4th (travel days -- SEA to Heraklion, Crete, see note below)
Sept 5th thru 10th: Crete
Sept 11th: travel to Santorini (via ferry)
Sept 12th: Santorini
Sept 13th: Santorini to Naxos (via ferry)
Sept 14th -16th: Naxos
Sept 17th: Naxos to Mykonos (via ferry)
Sept 18th: Day trip to Delos
Sept 19th: Mykonos to Athens (via ferry)
Sept 20-21: Athens
Sept 22: rent a car and drive to Delphi, Hosios Loukas on the way (sleep in Delphi)
Sept 23: sightsee Delphi, drive to Mycenae, Diakopto along the way (sleep in Napflion)
Sept 24: sightsee Mycenae & environs (Nemea and Epidavros) (sleep in Mycenae)
Sept 25: Sounion seeing Ancient Corinth & Eleusis along the way (sleep in Sounion)
Sept 26: return car & fly out

Questions/notes:
Do we need a rental car on Naxos?
We're debating whether to cut Naxos and be able to extend our time on the mainland. We want to include Mystras, and there is a resort town on the west side of the mainland that janet from Philadelphia has mentioned that we like the look of.
Flights are significantly cheaper to HER, but we'll likely stay elsewhere on Crete.
We are literally just going to Mykonos for the day trip to Delos.
At this time, we are booked SEA to FRA on the 4th, likely going to catch the 18:55 flight to HER (ar. 22:55). We don't love how late that is (it's a 10 hr layover), but other options were more expensive and added significant travel time. We are also going from ATH to CDG to spend a few days there on our way back to SEA. We'll catch a direct flight.
Does this sound like a good first trip to Greece?

Posted by
2816 posts

I think you are moving too much.

  1. I haven’t done it but have read you can visit Delos from Naxos. Naxos is lovely. I would give some of your days from Mykonos to Naxos. We did rent a car in Naxos but there is also a bus system. It is not hard to drive on Naxos.

  2. I then would fly from Naxos to Athens and rent a car. It is an hour into Athens. Much easier to visit Athens at the end.

  3. I did not visit all the places you are planning but I can tell you that Mycenae is very close to nafplio. We stayed in nafplio and day tripped to mycanae and nemea one day. Epidavros is not in the same direction. We did that a different day. I think Mycenae, Epidavros, and Nemea in one day would be too much.

Beth

Posted by
3401 posts

My thoughts, based on experience with your destinations....

• Too bad about flight connections -- CDG is OK if just going to france but if making connections, it is a total nightmare if a layover of less than 3 hours, & horrible place to wait from noonish to 22:55. Do your "points" work at all for some a different airline with connection at a different airport? It might even be same cost to fly SEA to XXX European Airport, connect to Athens flight w SHORT wait-time, Then connect to Chania flight with short wait-time. You say "at this time" ... does this mean any oppty for change? If not, just say "locked-in" so we won't think of options.
• CRETE - good to make up mind now about sequence: When you plan to do the 2 Heraklion "musts" - Knossos & Museum. Due to exhaustion, Probably best to conk out on arrival, next day take local bus Sept 5 to Knossos, do Museum in afternoon, KTEL bus to Chania 9/6, and only rent car after you've explored Chania old city for a day
• SANTORINI - NAXOS - -- To be time-efficient, I suggest you Limit your SANTO time; arr. Noon Sept 11, explore around (but not OIA) Sept 12, bus to OIA @ 8am (to beat cruise mobs), - on Sept 13, don't wait for 1530 Blue Star ferry arr 17:30, instead leave on 1045 CHAMPIONJet Fast-ferry (open back deck for departure views), arrive NAXOS by noon.
• NAXOS - DELOS - Do NOT make separate delos trip!! Take day-excursion to DELOS-MYKONOS on either Mon 9/16 or WED 9/18 on large Excursion vessel MV Alexander (do NOT book on smaller & rockier Naxos Star). Don't go back to Mykonos; just enjoy wonderful Naxos for 5-6 days, you'll never find a better island, and it's bound to change. instead --
• ATHENS -- Sept 18 in AM, FLY from Naxos to ATH airport, get to hotel; go up on Acropolis late-day. Sept 19-20 More sights.
• DELPHI - Sept 21 - Get car early (at airport??) Drive to Delphi (3+ hours) see Housios Loukas enroute. See Museum (open til 8), stay o'night, see Ruins 8 AM Sept 22, 10 am head for MYSTRAS (to avoid backtracking), ssee part in afternoon, O'nite Mystras area. To illustrate, here's Giant Pelops map - http://euro-map.com/karty-grecii/peloponnes/podrobnaya-turisticheskaya-karta-peloponnesa.jpg -click & it gets huuge.
• SEpt 23 - Mystras AM - then head Back East on big intercity highway. See NEMEA 1-2pm - then to NAFPLIO area by 3pm.
. SEPT 24 - AM Mycenae... PM Explore Nafplio stay in NAFPLIO (there is NOTHING isn Mycenae).
• SEPT 25 -- Head back 8 AM, across "thumb" of Pelops, see Epidaurus 10-11 AM, up coast to Corinth area. Possible stop at Eleusis (IF you've done a LOT of homework about it; hard to interpret D-I-Y). See Sounion temple before the sunset Bus-Jam (20+ tour busses), check in to one of nice seacoast hotels

Your wish-list crams a LOT of travel in... even X'ing the Mykonos double-dip & slow ferries. Things you may just have to XX:

• GIALOVA on west coast --- too far, no point in going there just for a few hours-- trying to crowd in too too much.

• Ancient CORINTH -if u are a St.Paul devotee & it's a must, then you might have to rethink Mystras. Neither one is worth crowding out the Natl. Arch. Museum.

Posted by
18 posts

Janet -- as always you are the best.

I'm a little pressed for time, but I wanted to let you know that we are going through Frankfurt, which has a direct to Heraklion.

Posted by
1455 posts

Jan has done the heavy lifting on the response to your plan.

I have not responded to this thread as I have been rereading it several times to try get my head around your plan. I can see a number of inefficiencies that could be tweaked.
Anyway for what it is worth. !!0 hour layover Frankfurt. We live directly north of you so we know how long the trip is to Greece from the west coast. I fully agree that getting to Crete on that first day is the right thing to do but a 10 hour layover wow.

While you arrive in Heraklion you say you plan to stay somewhere else in Crete. The problem is you have to go back to Heraklion to get the ferry to Santorini. This means you are going to have to spend at least a couple of hours at both ends of the vacation getting out of Heraklion and back. My suggestion is just stay in Heraklion. Since your plan is to visit Ancient sites, Heraklion is perfectly located for day trips to several interesting sites. You probably are gong to be exhausted day 1 so just stay in Heraklion. Visit the Archeological museum. Explore the central area and Venetian era harbour. Sticking close to the central area is a good idea because at some point you are going to crash that day and being near your hotel is probably a good idea.

Heraklion https://www.flickr.com/photos/stanbr54/sets/72157655935354556

Next day get to Knossos early before the tour buses arrive, Take the rest of the day to continue exploring central Heraklion and just recover from the trip. Find a car rental agency and arrange a car rental for the next day. By the way we have had unbelievably good experience with Autorentals Crete. They are a local company who work hard for your business. Do not use one of the big international companies use a local rental agency. They probably can deliver the car to your hotel or will pick you up and take you to the car.

Now you have great options. I would head to central Crete south of Heraklion. There you will find Phastos. It is what Knossos was like before the restorations. There is great controversy about the accuracy of Knossos restoration work. At Phastos you can see a Minoen ruin in raw form. Just three kilometers away you will find the ruins at Agia Tradia which was the summer retreat for the Royals. You will understand why they had a summer retreat just 3km away when you visit. Triada is in the mountains and get a cooling breeze. Phastos just bakes in the plain.

Crete Archeological sites https://www.flickr.com/photos/stanbr54/sets/72157645085297380/

I know you said you are looking for ancient sites but I can promise you one of the highlights of this area is the Roman city of Gortyz (or Gorten) plus a few other spellings. There is a gated site here which is interesting however the real experience is outside this site. Just take water with you and start to wander along the roadside through the olive groves. You will begin to see fallen columns just lying in the groves. Keep going and you will find the active archeological site. There you will find a partially excavated amphitheater, baths, the forum plus the Governers Pratoreum, hundreds of fallen columns, a headless statue and partially excavated buildings and roads. It is as if you discovered this place yourselves. You will likely be sharing the treasure with no more than 10 other people. We spent 4 hours wandering this place. It is an off the beaten path gem of an experience.
Gortyz https://www.flickr.com/photos/stanbr54/albums/72157666456665788

I appear to have run out of space so I will continue on another post.

Posted by
1455 posts

Other sites to visit on day trips from Heraklion.

You could head west for a day trip to Rethymnon. While not ancient, it has Venetian era buildings and is worth a day trip. Perhaps visit the Fortezza.
On the way take a detour and visit Melatomi cave. It is a moving experience. In the 1830's the Turks suffocated over 300 (mostly woman and children). By the way the cave has been a place of worship for millennia so it qualifies as ancient. Melatomi village is just a few kilometers away it has a number of abandoned building possibly because there was no one alive to keep maintaining them.

You can see images here. By the way this album also contains images of Ancient Aptera which could be incorporated into a long day trip but probably not optimal from Heraklion.

Melatomi and Aptera https://www.flickr.com/photos/stanbr54/albums/72157672118379637
Rethymnon https://www.flickr.com/photos/stanbr54/sets/72157654700502270

If you still have time you could set your sites east. There you can find the Minoen palace at Malia ( perhaps a bit too many Minoen sites by now) Other interesting sites would be the Doric city of Lato and the amazing walk through Spinalonga near Elounda. While not particularly ancient, no one will ever forget their visit to this abandoned leper colony. You could possibly do both in one day.

Lato https://www.flickr.com/photos/stanbr54/albums/72157686320042962
Spinalonga https://www.flickr.com/photos/stanbr54/albums/72157661798099198

Now the nice thing is you are still in Heraklion for the ferry trip to Santorini. I see you are planning just two nights in Santoirni. Thats just about the right amount of time in my opinion.

You will regret only 2 nights in Naxos. Since you are only going to Mykonos to see Delos then take the day excursion boat from Naxos.

Day trip Delos and Mykonos http://www.flickr.com/photos/stanbr54/sets/72157637922138466/

That gives you two more nights in Naxos. Naxos by the way has several 6th century antiquities around the island. At least you will have a bit of time to try find them.

Naxos Town http://www.flickr.com/photos/stanbr54/sets/72157632094558042/
Trip around Naxos http://www.flickr.com/photos/stanbr54/sets/72157634605629689/

As Jan said fly back to Athens. There is no point in taking a ferry back to Athens spending two nights there then renting a car. Sequence is important so time is not wasted. Get back to Athens airport and rent the car there and get out to Nafplio and then Delphi. Nafplio is the logical base to explore Corinth, Nemia Mycenae and Epidavros. You can also do a long day trip to Sparti to visit Mystras.

Nafplio and Peloponnese http://www.flickr.com/photos/stanbr54/sets/72157632094108982/

Next travel to Delphi. You could do Corinth on the way. Best strategy is to arrive Delphi late afternoon after all the bus tours leave. Visit the museum and enjoy the amazing views down the mountainside to the gulf of Corinth. Next morning be at the site at opening. That will give you 3 perhaps 4 hours before the bus hoards arrive. Leave.

Delphi and Meteora https://www.flickr.com/photos/stanbr54/albums/72157698930270992

Drive back to Athens and do your Sounion/Athens days at the end of the trip. Doing it this way saves you two round trips into and out of Athens..

I suspect I have been pretty repetitive with Jans suggestions but as usual I can only see your original post as I respond. Anyway you are going to love Greece. We will expect to see you back again in the future.

Posted by
11606 posts

Stay in Napflion for the Mycenae, no need to change hotels.