How many days in Chania?

Chapter #1
First things first -- staying in Iraklion. I like Hotel Kronos if you can get a balcony w a sea view... it's right on the sea front, and walkable to the bus station. Reasonable rates. You can get a rental car delivered right there .. but DO get good directions for getting out of town! Iraklion has 1-way streets, very confusing... once u are on the highway heading west, no problem. When you return to Iraklion to get the daily 9:45 ferry to Santorini, u can arrange just to leave y our car in a certain lot by the ferry.

Now, about this "Base" fantasy. People who talk about having one "base" in Greece usually got the idea from visiting Northern Italy. Rent a place in Tuscany or Umbria, and every day drive 20 minutes in a different direction & have a new experience, N - S- E -W in 4 days, then back to "base" in half an hour & sleep in same bed.

Greece is not Italy. In small islands of course, if you go 20 miles in ANY direction you drown. So you spend 4 days in one island and hop to another. That's why they call it island-hopping, not island basing.

Crete is as big as a country, but also has its limitations as a "base" concept. Because of the major mountain ranges, you cannot go any direction you wish ... only down the valleys between mountain ranges. Thus you spend a lot of time getting there i.e., Chania to Paleochora and then you have to backtrack. You spend all your time in the car. this online map which I love (click & it gets huuuge) http://www.explorecrete.com/crete-maps/images/Crete-eot.png - has roads AND terrain & shows plainly what I mean.

Certainly CHANIA itself is rewarding for 2-3 days to explore.. and you want to stay on the WEST side of Old Town near the wall -- the main "lane" (no-cars) is Theotokopoulos street, and it is absolutely LINED with small pensions that have what you call "studio units" w. small kitchenette or kitchen "ell" w sink/hotplate. ALL rooms have FRIDGES most also coffeemakers, small table & chairs. Just a few of the places along that street include Hotel Hera & Casa di Pietra (the 2 with the BEST location.. at end of street nearest the sea), then either on Theo or just off include Anemones Apts, Pension Nora, Iason Studios. Casa Veneta This terrific map https://www.hotelscombined.com/Place/Chania_1.htm?mapState=expanded%3D1 shows this cluster of small lodgings (6 -10 rooms) u are planning so far ahead no need to using an online agency, just look google their websites, look at their Trip Adv reviews, then contact 5-6 of them direct ... they'll be delighted because that means they don't have to pay an agency fee. This is hands-down the best area to stay in... there is free parking at a lot right by the seafront (look carefully, one lot also charges), then you roll your little bags up a gently ramped walkway to the foot of Theo. street, and there you are!!

Sure, enjoyable day trips: Akrotiri Peninsula , the ancient ruins of Aptera, Rethymnon, (mainly for the Fortezza its Old Town isn't up to Chania's). To see small villages enroute to Rethmymnon, jump off E-W Highway (on the map, Big Green Road marked E75) drive instead Old Road, in Red ... on this, one May we ran into "traffic jams" of herds of Goats & sheep meandering along. FOr more villages, head for VAMOS (see map)up a road near the sea, to Gavalohori, a very traditional town w. crafts. Then swim at a beach like Almirida or Khalives, & return to Chania. On yr drive West, detour inland at Panormos 5 - 8 Miles to Cave of Melidoni ... gorgeous stalactites, yet haunted -- in 1823 Turks suffocated over 300 civilians there ... a simple pile of stones erected at the time says "never Forget" ; poignant, unforgettable.

However -- that's maybe 4-5 days, u have 10 ... time to Move Along! I've reached the word limit... so will continue in Chapter #2.

CHAPTER #2
Keep that Map open while considering options. In order not to simply retrace your drive, you'll want to go SOUTH, then get back NORTH=CENTRAL for your Ferry in HERAKLION (Iraklion). As Map shows, you can't just go Straight south to Paleochora or Sougia and then drive EAST because -- Guess what??? There is NO ROAD on South Coast, only Mountains & the mouth of Gorges. There are several options some more complicated than others:

(1) DRIVE to PALEOCHORA -- (spend the Night) and take ferry(Ferries) EAST to HORA SFAKION ... u could spend a night there OR go East about 16 KM (10 miles), and stay at FRANGOKASTELLO. (I have a great hidden 11th C church on a hillside to steer u to) However, you then would have to drive back N along the rim of the IMBROS Gorge, and be on the Big Green North highway again (I would NOT recommend, driving from Hora Sfakion E along coast & up thru mountains to SPILI -- having done that ... the map does NOT convey the challenges of that road!) The other option ----

(2) DRIVE E on RED ROAD, then down Rt 97 to SPILI ... a Good road, scenic, in a valley. Look up SPILI - its "town square" (really a triangle) has fab fountain, 20 lions' mouths, water from top of Mt. Ida -- crystalline and Delish!! If u got there by noon you could turn inland at Spili for the Western "loop" of the Amari Valley (google it), and then emerge At AG Galini. Continue to beach area of MATALA. Do NOT stay at crammed row of beach pensions... back about 1000 yards is Dimitris Villa https://www.matala.gr (they now call themselves Dimitris Resort Hotel but don't panic; it's still just 20 rooms, a pool a cafe & Dimitris & his adorable family). Lovely place, view of mountains, vine-covered patio. In May, Matala beach won't be overcrowded, if u are brave u can climb up to the famous caves on the cliffside overlooking. Stay here 2 nights, and one of the ays you can go see The Palace of Phaistos (Festos) and Ag Triada Villa... ruins NOT fancifully restored as Evans did Knossos. Then hit the road again, drive thru GORTIS (stop if you want -- a lotta tumbledown roman-era ruins), then on to WINE COUNTRY.
IF you exit Red Road (97) near Dafnes, you're in the heart of Cretan's biggest vineyard area. This website tells about the best wineries to visit around there http://www.we-love-crete.com/dafnes.html Near Archanes this ancient Site Vathypetro is supposedly the oldest winepress ever discovered, 2500 yrs old?? http://www.minoancrete.com/vathypetro.htm There seem to be a lot of nice places to stay around Dafnes @ about €60-70 per night, such as Villa Daskalogianni ... or you could just ask at a Dafnes taverna owner, where is i good to stay around here... his uncle Kostas probably has a place .. you will still be off-season. It's close enough to Heraklion you could make that 9:45 am ferry & not have to stay in Heraklion 2x.

Some great ideas above, lots of lovely places to visit.

OR - you could stay half your time in Chania & half in 1 other place, perhaps a small village, or maybe the South coast. That way, not much packing & unpacking.

From Chania there are many half-day & day trips you may like, some could include:
- the 3 monasteries on Akrotiri (or the top 2 if you don't want to walk down to Katholiko, which is the best bit)
- Pretty little beaches fairly near - eg Marathi, Tersanas - both have 1 good taverna, Stavros where Zorba's hill is in the film
- Amazing beaches further afield - Elafonisi, Falasarna (& ancient port), Balos. You may well be able to swim by mid-May, depending on how hard this winter will be!
- Lots of little villages in Apokoronas to drive round, stop for a stroll & a coffee - you can make a good circuit around places like Kalyves, Vamos, Gavalohori, Armenoi, Stylos or inland more through the higher villages on little roads, heading towards the White Mountains - to Fres, Melidoni, Pemonia, Tzitzifes & lots more. Some of the best local eateries are in these village tavernas.
- Lots of old churches & monasteries to explore - places like Karydi monastery with it's 12 arch olive press, Agios Nikolaos in Samonas
- A drive up Therisso gorge (small war resistance museum) could lead you on to Drakona & the now famous Dounias taverna
- A day-trip to Hofa Sfakia on the South coast, & perhaps the ferry to Loutro for lunch
- Ancient Aptera.
- Polyrinnea
= several museums & galleries in Chania
-Day trips from Chania will ust be starting if you want a non-driving option
- don't forget places like Nea Hora, the town beach, where you can watch life going on & eat fabulous fresh fish.
-The sleepy little town of Kalyves, followed 5 mins later by the little beach village of Almyrida, then up the hill for 2 mins brings you to the old village of Plaka, with 3 tavernas (go to O Harokopos, it's the best!). This could be an option for a few days stay for you, there are many privately owned holiday villas in the area, some inexpensive in early season. Just another idea, without driving too far out of your way.

& many more. Also, you'll want a couple of mornings to stroll around the old harbour & little lanes of Chania. & another at a street market, especially as you like food. Here you will find the freshest local produce in season, & the Chania residents out shopping. There are 3 market days in fairly easy reach of the old town.

The WWII museum is part of the Maritime Museum which is really interesting in itself. If interested in the history of the War in Crete, do visit the Commonwealth War Cemetery at Souda, overlooking the Bay where the Allied fleet was sunk. I think you will just miss the Rememberence ceremony held there every year that commemorates the Battle of Crete. The German war cemetery overlooking the airfield of Maleme is also very evocative. An excellent book is Crete, the Battle and the Resistence by Anthony Beevor.

The eastern part of the Island is also interesting; Spinalonga, a Venetian island fortress that was a leper colony up until the mid-1950's. Interesting displays about life in the colony and the history of the site. The Lasithi Plateau with its windmills, The sites on two small islands just off Mohlos, the archaeological sites of Gournia, Lato and Malia. Crete has almost too much to see!

Going back to Chania, which is a centre of the olive industry in Crete, a visit to Ano Vouves, to see what is claimed to be the oldest olive tree in existence, is worthwhile. The tree is estimated to be 3000-4000 years old and is still productive!

Of course Chania's harbour is a great place to while away a few hours. Find a favourite cafe, sit and watch the world go by, wander past the pleasure and fishing boats, visit the latest exhibition at the art gallery in the mosque, walk out to the lighthouse.

The covered market is a mix of souvenir shops, seafood, cheese and butcher shops. If going for seafood get there early, they are usually sold out by late morning. The fish is so fresh it is still wriggling! For a special meal look at Tamam, a small restaurant in an old Turkish Bath. Good food and lots of atmosphere.

Recommend the Rough Guide to Crete. Good information, maps etc.

Since my initial query I have obtained the Rough Guide to Crete, the Lonely Plant Crete and a National Geographic map of Crete which is spread out across our dining room table. I was beginning to have some qualms about my base idea (acquired in Provence, not Italy) so I appreciate the reality check. I have never been able to easily translate a flat map to actual driving conditions so I appreciate having this bubble burst.

I am always astounded at the depth of knowledge responders in these forums have and extremely grateful that you are willing to take the time to share this with people you don't even know.

I am going to work on a revised itinerary with several overnight locations. When I have the rough draft in place I will ask for another reality check from the forum.

Many thanks to you all.

Happy to help; you should also know that you won the hearts of Greece travel "vets" by actually obtaining some guide books!! Some inquirers really don't want to fact-find anywhere but on their Smart-phones; their world is a 3 x 5 screen. They've never had a library card; who needs one, with Google, they say. But then, you are grown-ups.

I was reading over Janet's Chapter 2 and REALLY wanted to go from Frangokastello to Spili, even though she advised not doing so. I looked at the map and satellite views and was thinking we could do that, having driven in Provence and both Hana and the north coast in Maui. But then I saw a utube video of someone driving to Frangokastello and it made me totally revise my thinking. The road clings to narrow cliff edges and there are many hairpin turns. I got dizzy just watching the video. I am back to the drawing board for our itinerary.

One other question - is the drive from Frangokastello north along the rim of the Imbros gorge to get back to the big green road much better?

I like the SW Hania province driving tour suggested by lonely planet but rather than doing it in a whole day I thought we could spend the night, (in Elafonisi at the Elafonisi resort?) before heading back to Hania so we would have more time to enjoy the beaches and small towns along the western coast.

Many thanks!

When we need to head back to Heraklion the 2nd drive janet suggested sounds perfect.

M.e. - Regarding driving the road along the rim of Imbros Gorge, I have been "navigator" doing it in both directions ... yes there re many many hairpin turns, however, the road is well kept up, and going UP the road is much easier on the nerves than going down ... the driver just has to keep eyes on the road and ignore all passenger cries of look at that! Imbros Gorge is thrilling to contemplate because of its history in WW II ... When the Nazis invaded by air & sea, the Brits & Aussie & NEw Z troops were nearly trapped. The heroic and fierce resistance by the populace (old women and teenagers attacking parachuters with pitchforks as they landed!) delayed the Wehrmacht long enough that the Allied troops could organize and flee to the south coast, where submarines & destroyers waited to take them off. The troops went down the Imbros Gorge, led by locals... just an hour ahead of the pursuing invaders --- then when the Germans filed down the gorge, the Sfakians stood high on the rim above, with their rifles, and picked t hem off 1 by 1 (The Sfakians were the Hatfield/McCoys of Crete, forever feuding, and demon snipers!). Grateful troops remembered their rescue ... I read that New Zealanders returned to the site of their rescue, Plakias, where a priest aided in their escape, and brought a new bell for his damaged church.

Have not been to Elafonissi, have been to at least a dozen wonderful beaches in Crete, but avoided the trek to Elafonissi because I had heard about the daily crunch of tour busses (the photos of the lovely empty beach either are taken at dawn, or in the off season!). Apparently the beach is PACKED from late May thru September... but it empties out about 4 pm. So you might want to time it to arrive late in the day (but be prepared for lots of debris left by the Bus People).

Falassarna is a very different story in May. In late June-early July it becomes a teen Mecca, but May... serene.

I just got back from a 11-day trip to Greece, one day of which was spent in Chania. Stupidly, I took the Hop On, Hop Off bus which went to 11 sites, none of which was interesting. Plus, the bus got stop in traffic...

I would like to go back to Chania on another trip, as it was the most interesting town or city on the 7-day cruise of the Cyclades, and I didn't feel that I spent enough time there, especially in the Old Town.

Are there places nearby worth visiting that are accessible by public transportation?

I never saw Knossos, either.--------------

Denny I gather you meant ATHENS when you referred to a hop-on, hop-off Bus route. I agree that it's a waste of time, because all the worthwhile sites are walkable in Central athens/plaka, and many are on no-cars lanes. The busses are limited to big avanues, where yousit in traffic looking at office buildings. As far as I know, Chania thank god has NO hopon busses.