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Guidance for our September itinerary

Hello, Rick Steves community,

I and my wife will be traveling to Greece this coming September. We have used the forum to
guide us through a lot of initial thinking. We believe we've settled on an itinerary
that suits us -- late 50's both of us, active, healthy, Canadian. We are not resort travelers - we like
pensions, and rustic/real (but clean) housing.

Below is our proposed itinerary. Three parts - 1) Three Islands 2) Pelponnese 3) A few Athens days
It's not complete -- we don't have activities sketched out for our time in Paros and Sifnos yet, nor
have we mapped out the order of activities for Athens days.

We'd love any feedback on:
-- the places we've booked to stay

-- the overall ambition of our trip.
-- Paros? We are not 100% committed to Paros. We're going to Santorini just to see it, and we are really excited about Sifnos and the food festival. We'd like to stay at a third Greek island and are torn between Paros and Naxos. (Alternately, I'd love to go to Amorgos, but it seems so very difficult to get there and away.) Worried that Paros may seem too resort like, which isn't our jam. Would like easy transport, a good beach or two, hiking if possible, solid tavernas.
-- which ferries to take?

Islands
10 - 12 Sept Santorini - Staying in Immerovigli - Via Happening.
10 Arrive Santorini late evening - plane from Athens. How to get to Immerovigli at a late hour?
11 Sept - Fira/Oïa hike.
12 Sept - One more day in Santorini -- what to do that day?
13 - 16 Sept -- Paros. (Ferry from Santorini to Parikia, then to Naoussa). Staying in Naoussa - Ostria apartments. Explore Paros, avoiding the "resort" crowd as much as we can. Drive the ring road? Enjoy a beach or two. Wineries? Hiking. Day cruise to Delos? Is there a different suggestion about where we should stay? Which car rental company should we use -- it looks like we need a car, or could scooters work?
17 - 21 Sept -- Sifnos. (Ferry from Parikia to Sifnos.) Our dates are during the Telemedes Food Festival. Currently have a reservation at hotel Anthousa in Apollonia but are debating whether to stay there or Flora Geronti. Any thoughts on best places to stay?
22 Sept -- Ferry from Sifnos to Piraeus. Train from Piraeus to Athens, staying in Attalos Hotel.

Peloponnese leg
23 Sept -- Train from Downtown Athens to Airport, pick up car rental. Drive to Corinth, Nemea, Myceneae (?) on the way to Stemnitsa. Stay in Mpelliko Guest House in Stemnitsa. Thoughts on car rental agency to use?
24 Sept -- Hike from Stemnitsa to Dimitsana. Remainder of the day -- explore villages of the region, make a trip to Prodromou Monastery. Sleep Stemnitsa.
25 Sept -- Drive from Stemnitsa to Kalavryta -- A day on the Odontotos Train and Kalavryta museum sites. Return drive to Stemnitsa. (lots of driving this day -- not 100% committed to the train, but it sounds so great.)
26 Sept -- Stemintsa to Limeni -- visiting Ancient Messini on the way, hike the Kardamyli-Petrouvni-Agia Sofia-Old Town Karadmyli-Kardamyli loop, continue on to Limeni. Stay in Limeni -- Vasilios Apartment Hotel.
27 Sept -- Limeni to Gythio -- visit Drios Caves, [only as far south as Alika], Lagia, Kokkala - Gythio.
Stay in Saga Pension in Gythio.
28 Sept - Gythio to Napflio -- visit Mystras, then take coastal road to Leonidio, on to Napfliio.
Stay Napfliio two nights -- Eleni Pension.
29 Sept - Napflio day. If we didn't squeeze in Mycenae on the 23rd, we visit it this day.
30 Sept - Drive from Napflio to Athens Airport, via Epidauros. Return rental car. To Hotel Attalos in Athens.

Athens
1 and 2 October - In Athens, we'll visit the usual suspects, but aren't sure which order is the most efficient. Does anyone have a good strategy for seeing the sites?
3 October - Leave Athens.

We would welcome any guidance - many thanks, everyone!

Jeff

Posted by
3915 posts

About the islands you will be visiting,

Santorini on September 10th:

Late in Greece is generally after 11 PM. From the airport, there is a bus to Fira, the capital, every hour until 10 PM, but the only way to get to Immerovigli is by taxi or a transfer service. Villa Hapenning offers an Airport/Port Transfer Service, contact them.

September 12th: If you are staying in Santorini that day, there are plenty of things to do, for example, the impressive archaeological site of Akrotiri, an ancient Minoan city, you can get there by bus from Fira or by taxi.

Santorini wines have a worldwide reputation, and many vineyards offer tours with tastings, and other walks or hikes are possible besides the Fira/Oia hike.

There's even a tomato museum, which few people know about, on Vlychada beach in the south of the island.

https://www.tomatomuseum.gr/

Paros

There are few resorts in Paros, a few villa complexes with grandiose names like "Blue Paradise" or "Ambassador Luxury Villas" are concentrated mainly in the northeast of the island.

I know Paros quite well, and personally, Naoussa is the last place I would go. Yes, it's a charming little port, but it has transformed in just a few years into an overly touristy and expensive place, benefiting from intense promotion by internet influencers, travel agencies selling honeymoon packages, and luxury brand branches that set up shop there for the summer.
The small beach in Naoussa is uninteresting. So, to sum up, Naoussa is not a tourist resort at all, but to me it has the same drawbacks.

But to each their own.

Although Paros has a good bus service (the hub is in Parikia), a car or scooters is the most practical way to get around the island (but I don't understand what you mean by "ring road").
I know 3 or 4 car rental companies in Paros that we've rented cars from. All the local rental companies offer pretty much the same types of cars and services. I always use companies that don't require a deposit or advance payment. I just make a reservation and pay by card or cash on the day I pick up the car.

Here are two examples from recent uses:

https://inparos.gr/

https://acropolisparos.com/

You only have two full days in Paros, so you'll have to make some choices. It took us almost a month to really get to know Paros.

A visit to Delos takes a full day with a stopover of a few hours in Mykonos.

You can also go to Antiparos for the day via a ferry that runs from the port of Punta (and Parikia in the summer).

There are some beautiful villages in Paros, such as the old capital Lefkes, Prodomos, Aliki, Marmara, and others.

The most beautiful beaches in Paros are located on the east coast, with the largest being Golden Beach.

In the northwest of the island, you'll find the lighthouse and Paros Park, with some hiking trails and a few small, hidden beaches.

https://parospark.com/

And by the way, there's an excellent winery in Paros, Moraitis.

https://moraitiswines.gr/en/mainpage/

And even a local brewery, if you get thirsty.

https://www.56islesbeer.gr/

We also explored the old marble quarries before they were secured and organized, but now it's officially possible.

https://parianmarble.com/currently-planned-visits/

About Sifnos

Excellent opportunity to go to Sifnos during the Nikolaos Tselementes festival!

You'll have a great time (and eat a lot of good food). We also spent quite a bit of time on Sifnos in different places, but I don't know the accommodations you mentioned. In any case, Apollonia is a good choice; it's the bus hub in case you still have some time to visit Sifnos (which also takes quite a few days). Our favorite place in Sifnos is the old capital, Kastro, but there's no beach.
On the south coast, there are some nice spots for swimming, and of course, numerous hiking trails, which are among Sifnos's main attractions.

Posted by
57 posts

Some of the better car rentals will bring your car and pick up your car at the Athens hotel. No need to go out to the airport for pick-up and return. Stick to local family run agencies.

Posted by
5 posts

JoLui -

Many thanks for your thoughtful reply, particularly the specific tips about Paros!

A follow-up or two:

1) With all of the drawbacks you've listed for Naoussa, which different place on the island
would you suggest staying in? You mentioned the smaller villages - might there be a particular one
that stands out? Is there specific lodging that you could recommend?

2) Antiparos - we've read about it, but can't quite tell what is distinctive about it
relative to Paros itself. You mention it -- what do you enjoy about Antiparos?

3) Sifnos -- Have you specific lodgings and a community you could recommend, especially
considering we're there at festival time?

4) Naxos vs. Paros -- Have you spent an equivalent amount of time on Naxos? Are there similar over touristed and
expensive issues on that island? All in all, would you recommend a stay in Paros over Naxos?

5) Hiking -- I can't tell if you're a hiker yourself. Are there particularly excellent hikes you'd suggest in Paros or Sifnos?

We will likely not be taking the time to Delos, as we'd rather enjoy the "third island" -- whichever
that may be [Paros/Naxos... or...?]

[By the way, I guess the term "ring road" is my own, adapted from this sentence in Lonely Planet guide: "A zippy road circles its central mountain and connects the beaches and villages." Circles = ring?]

We really appreciate your help!

Posted by
5 posts

Lewis 98110 --

Thanks for the detail on Athens car rentals. We'd known that the companies can bring
and pick up your car into Athens, but we *really * don't want to try driving in that city,
plus I believe that the costs for that service make the car rental fee nearly double.
We thought that going out to the airport to pick up the vehicle would be more
affordable and would put us on a highway, thereby avoiding negotiating Athens.

Are there particular "local family run agencies" you can suggest? Many thanks!

Posted by
57 posts

Looks like a fabulous itinerary! As far as hotel feedback goes, we stayed at Vasilios Apartments Hotel in Limeni and enjoyed it. It is very well run, offers lovely views of the harbor, and is within easy walking distance to restaurants and swimming. Vasilios also offers parking spaces, which are hard to come by in tiny Limeni. Limeni is one of our favorite places. Takis fish taverna right on the water is perfect for sunset dining. There are rocky steps down into the water from the harbor and the swimming is great!
On Paros we enjoyed Naoussa and the ability to take water taxis to various beaches. One day we rented a car on Paros and had it delivered around 4:00 pm to have for a 24 hour period. We drove to the small, traditional village of Lefkes, walked around and enjoyed dinner there. The next day we drove around the island and swam at Golden Beach and enjoyed a local taverna for lunch.
As far as your second day on Santorini, if you're interested in history, Akrotiri is an excellent site to visit. You will love the Fira to Oia hike, too. Anyway, that's my two cents worth. Have fun!

Posted by
3915 posts

About Paros and Antiparos

Choosing where to stay in Paros depends first and foremost on your travel style and what you want to do. Having a rental car significantly expands your accommodation options.

I can suggest places, but I can't guarantee they'll be exactly what you're looking for, as we never stay in hotels but rather in studios, apartments, or houses. You also nedd to check if they allow you to stay for only 3 nights. Places with shops and all sorts of services, or places that are too crowded, aren't really our style either. So Naoussa is not our jam at all :-)

Here are a few examples of where we've stayed in Paros:

Niriides Studios, We stayed there during its second year of operation. Angi, the owner, is super friendly and will do everything to make your stay perfect. It's right across from Krios Beach, 5 minutes from Parikia, but a car is essential.

https://www.niriides-studios.gr/

Louridis Studios. Friendly and youthful atmosphere. Inexpensive, located in front of Paros' largest beach, Golden Beach. Ideal for water sports, windsurfing, scuba diving, etc.

https://paros-studios.gr/

Villa Vanta. In Drios, a village on the east coast. This one is a bit unusual since we were three couples sharing the rental price. I'm mentioning it anyway in case you can afford it. Ours was the Vanta II, the "cheaper" one.

https://villavanta.com/

Efi Studios. Also in Drios, these are the apartments managed by Efi, Anna's daughter. Anna is the fantastic woman who runs one of the best restaurants on Paros. Drios is a quiet village without a proper beach, but they are easily accessible on foot.

https://maps.app.goo.gl/DmLH2DZL85YMi3hW8

https://www.restaurantannaparos.gr/

Many people appreciate Antiparos (including Tom Hanks, who owns a house there). It's a small island with a single charming village/port. It's perfect for people who don't want to travel too much or do other activities, just relax and spend their days between the village, the port, and the beach. It's generally a bit more expensive and chic than Paros.
Nicksy, one of the prominent members of this forum and a great expert on ferries, was in Antiparos last week; he could give you more advice. I think Janet also knows Antiparos.

Posted by
3915 posts

Sifnos is also an island where we spent quite a bit of time (it was the first island we visited in the early 90s).

During the gastronomy festival, activities take place all over the island, including at the port to welcome travelers. You should check with the festival organizers to find out exactly what is planned for 2026 during these three days.

Email: [email protected]

Regarding accommodations, I recommend checking the "roomsinsifnos" website, which is locally managed and lists most of the options on the island.

https://www.roomsinsifnos.com/

Again, it all depends on what you want to do there, but as I've already said, I think Apollonia (or Artemonas, the neighboring village) would be perfect.

As for hikes, they are listed here:

https://sifnostrails.com/fr/

Apart from Apollonia, all the seaside villages in the south are nice.

While Kamares, the port, doesn't particularly appeal to me, it can be a good spot if you're looking for local entertainment, restaurants, a few shops, and a beach without the need for more adventurous pursuits. It's what I would (subjectively) call a more resort-style location.

Posted by
3775 posts

In Sifnos up on the hillside ... NOT Anthousa (noisy restaurant downstairs & it's right on he crossroads) ... any of the Geronti properties... I love my little room w vine-covered terrace patio at Geronti's -- the Geronti Pension no longer has its own website, but this great agency, Thesaurus, has good description/photos - https://www.thesaurus.gr/hotels/sifnos/apollonia/geronti_pension/geronti_pension.php
there are 5-6 units with looong balcony w views ... my fave 2 units are next door with vine-covered patios; one unit has 2 single beds, the other has double (not queen) .. that's my fave... Tell Nikoleta (owner-manager) that Janet sent you.
... it's on a bluff overl.ooking vallley & out to sea... only about 500 yards from crossroads & Anthousa.

Posted by
5 posts

JoLui, thank you so much for your very thorough feedback and tips! We are looking into staying in Drios.

Janet, thanks for the Sifnos lodgings suggestion. We've been able to secure a spot in the Geronti pension! Might you remember which particular unit is your favorite, or should we ask Nikoleta which you prefer? :) It sounds like a great place to be during both the festival and non-festival days.

Posted by
3915 posts

In Drios, I saw that Efi Studio has no availability for your dates (already!). Villa Vanta is also unavailable and can only be booked for a minimum of 4 nights anyway.

If you're planning to stay in Drios and are overwhelmed by the options, here are a few other ideas (from my personal favorites and backup plans).

Flora Apartments

https://www.floradrios.gr/

https://maps.app.goo.gl/Q4wFgNeySE9Tzvgx9

Kleanthi Apartments

https://www.kleanthiapartments.com/

https://maps.app.goo.gl/bssvw64Eyqcc4uSa6

Alternatively, further south in the village of Aliki, you'll find a nice beach well sheltered from the wind, a fishing port, and plenty of restaurants, tavernas, and other services. Very family-friendly atmosphere

Among others:

Evita Apartments

https://www.evita-paros.com/

https://maps.app.goo.gl/6hAvVcpDsEBniyYq7

Posted by
3775 posts

About Geronti, just ask Nikoleta ... and btw, give her my fondest regards ... she & I are connected on facebook , but it has been far too long since face-to-face.

Posted by
3775 posts

As for the Paros/antiparos choices .... having stayed in Paros a number of times, and finally discovering Antiparos, That is where I would stay ... It is only a 10-min or 20-min ferry ride from Paros port (depending on which little ferry you take... and it is charming beyond belief. A tiny pier, lovely seafront cafes, a winding "agora" (market street), SO walkable to several beaches. For a look at Antiparos highlights, my friend "stanbr" has great photo album: - https://www.flickr.com/photos/stanbr54/sets/72157632126687570/ It has charm, history... and none of that "resort crowd" or whatever one calls the Spa Types these day.s.

The loveliest beach is a 5 min walk to Left of pier as you face inland ... https://antiparos.com/explore/psaraliki-beach/ just 50yards uphill from it is a place I would love to stay -- http://www.thalasea.gr/ Family-run, highly recommended by Forums MOSt knowledgeable Antiparos expert, Heimdall ... who's been traveling to greece for 30+ years, knows alld the isles. If Thalasea is booked, Heimdall's favorite is Mike's Place, very convenient, with a wee beach just outside its door.
The beauty part is, you can easlily explore PAROS while staying here... ferries go from early AM to late night. This photo-sequence & narratives shows a daytrip to highlights of Paros - https://agreekoddity.com/monday-24th-june-2013-a-day-trip-to-paros/ You can explore the port town's ancient sites, and don't have to worry about reaching Paros' better beaches.

Posted by
15 posts

Chiming in on a part of the Peloponnese leg, with the disclaimer that I’m more of a slow traveler😉

24 Sept - Hike from Stemnitsa to Dimitsana: best way to visit Prodromou Monastery is during this hike since it’s practically on the trail. Driving to the monastery takes a lot of time on a very narrow and very winding road. Other sights on the trail include the Filosofou Monastery and the Hydropower Museum. Also, don’t underestimate hiking in Greece, it can be quite demanding so I wouldn’t plan a full afternoon visiting the mountain villages after this hike ;) Dimitsana is lovely and very interesting to explore. The smaller village of Zigovisti is a short (taxi) ride away from Dimitsana, there’s a taverna on the main square with a handwritten menu, serving excellent food.

26 Sept -- Stemnitsa to Limeni: a beautiful day on the road but with more driving than you think (lots of winding roads) so maybe don’t plan too many activities. I’d be tempted to swap the Kardamyli hike for lunch either at Messini or in Kardamyli😁

I’m happy to see that you’re covering Arkadia and Mani regions, they’re so different from one another, both with is own unique charm.

Posted by
5 posts

Thanks, SaschavA, for your thoughts and perspective on our Peloponnese leg! That's a helpful tip to visit Prodromou on the day we're hiking. Thanks, too, for Zigovitsi taverna suggestion.

Thanks, JoLui, for the sections in Drios -- we'll have a look!

Janet -- re: Nikoleta -- are you suggesting that we contact her before we travel? Should we ask for the "Janet" room? :)
Also, thanks so much for the Antiparos perspective. We'll look into that as well as the Drios options suggested by JoLui.

Kernk -- Thanks, too, for your suggestion re: Arkotiri on Santorini, and for the recommendation of Takis in Limeni!

I haven't seen too many replies saying that our itinerary seems too hectic or unachievable, so hopefully we've gotten it more or less right. Thanks, everyone!

Posted by
3775 posts

re Sifnos bookings ... of course you shoud contact the Pension if you have a reservation, and specify a preference if you have on.

Posted by
146 posts

Regarding Fira to Oia hike, get an early start as it is unshaded for the most part and mid day sun can be brutal. I did this hike in early October and it got really hot by 10 am.

I do remember there is a bus from Fira to Imerovigli. https://ktel-santorini.gr/index.php/en/services/timetable-summer shows buses running as late as 9 PM from Fira bus station (airport bus would drop you off here). Not sure if that would work for you? Also, I don't know if this is the up to date timetable, but you should be able to call or email KTEL Fira (contact info at the top of that page). If buses are not running, taxis are an option. And the walk along the Fira to Oia road passes Imerovigli, but probably not conducive to dragging your suitcases on that unpaved path.

Re. Athens, personally I think 2 days is not enough, but it also depends on the sights you want to cover. My suggestion is to hit the ones you like the most first because you don't know how long you will spend at each (at least, I tend to linger and that is why I needed longer than 2 days). I remember I went to Acropolis Museum on the afternoon of one day of the week when it is open pretty late (10 pm?). You would want to be at the museum in the evening hours so you can see Acropolis illuminated. You can also get great views of Acropolis from Areopagus Hill in the evening. I'd do the Acropolis in the morning and then either the Acropolis museum or Areopagus Hill in the evening so you can also see the Acropolis all lit up. In between, you can visit the Ancient Agora, Syntagma Sq, Plaka, Monastiraki etc. On the second day, hit the sights you couldn't do on the first day. If you want to see the National Archeological Museum, make time for that too.

I rented from Athens Car Rental (ACR) and had a good experience. They will bring the car to you at the airport and also meet you when you drop it off there. I also opted to drop off the car at the airport to avoid driving in Athens traffic. They do have an office in Koropi, a 20 min walk from Koropi metro station. This is the station that is one stop before the airport.

Have fun. I will be in Greece too at the same time, but am covering Northern Greece this time and I do hope to do that Stemnitsa hike, if I have time to make it to Peloponnese. Haven't figured out my itinerary yet.

Posted by
146 posts

Also, in Greece, some (if not all) car rental companies do not appear to top the tank off at the time of rental and expect you to have at least as much gas when you return. If you prefer to rent with a full tank of gas, you should ask for that specifically.