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Greece for the first time—draft itinerary

Hello!
This is our first time visiting Greece, and we're very excited about it! We are a family of six (1 child and 3 teens). After much research, we put an itinerary together, and we were hoping that this knowledgeable group could let us know if it's doable or not realistic. (We don't mind the fast-paced, but if it's too much, it may not be enjoyable. Wondering if we should add/remove time in some places)

Day 1: Land in Athens at 1pm
Day 2: Athens (Acropolis, Sunday Changing of the guard ceremony, Plaka)
Day 3: Rent car, drive to Meteora (overnight stay)
Day 4: Drive to Nafplion (5-hr drive)
Day 5: Nafplion (Mycenae, Epidaurus, Acrocorinth during the stay in Nafplion)
Day 6: Nafplion
Day 7: Drive to Athens ferry, go to Milos with rental car (or fly out to Milos and rent another car)
Day 8: Milos
Day 9: Milos
Day 10: Milos
Day 11: Ferry/flight back to Athens
Day 12: Fly home

We appreciate your insights in advance!

Posted by
3644 posts

You have 2 nights Athens, 1 night Meteora, 3 nights Nafplio, 4 nights Milos, 1 night Athens.

If you reverse your trip, you can have 4 nights Milos, 1 night Meteora, 3 nights Nafplio, and 3 nights Athens.

You could take a flight the same day you arrive in Athens later in the day. Then fly back to Athens and rent a car at the airport.

I do think it is a lot of driving to go to Meteora for one night. It is 5 hours there and it adds to your trip to Nafplio also. We went for 2 nights but my son went for one on a different trip. He told me it was too much driving and we should stay longer. Yet, he was glad he saw it. But with four kids especially I might reconsider. I would add a night to Nafplio. We spent 4 nights there with twenty something kids--there were seven of us--and enjoyed it a lot. But 3 is enough to see the main sights--we visited different beaches as well as it was 95 degrees in early June.

If your group is more interested in Meteora, you could spend 2 nights there and then only 2 in Athens. We had some of our group who had to leave after two nights. This is what they were able to see. We had a private tour at 4pm of Acropolis, Agora, and other sights on first day there (after coming from Nafplio). The next day we went to other ruins and to the Archeological museum for a couple hours in the afternoon where we followed the Rick Steves tour and saw the highlights. My son in law who was determined went to the Acropolis museum for an hour also. The other two did not. Those of staying three nights saw it the next day as well as the Plaka and several parks.

Or if you haven't bought airline tickets, maybe you could add a night to your trip and do it all.

Posted by
4221 posts

First, you should provide your travel dates, planning a trip in May is completely different from planning one in August.

Yes, Days 2 and 3 are too packed, as bethFL mentioned, driving all the way to Meteora with children and staying only one night would be exhausting and isn't worth it.

Second point: Car rental agencies generaly do not allow you to take rental cars on the ferry. Even when it is possible, it is pointless and very expensive. It is better to simply rent another car on the island. On Milos you will only be able to drive in the accessible half of the island, the other half requires a 4WD vehicle, it's the NO SERVICE area on this map:

https://rent-a-car-milos.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/01/MILOS-MAP-1024x728.jpg

Taking a connecting flight to Milos on Day 1 would allow you to make better use of your time.

Posted by
7048 posts

I’d nix Meteora to be sure, also do some initial research into the vehicle to fit you all.
It can be stressful on arrival day, but I think flying to the island on arrival and doing Athens at the end would be efficient and be easier in the end.

Posted by
8 posts

Thank you for your insights!

We had thought about being in Athens for a couple days first to adjust to the time zone, and because we really wanted to see the Changing of the Guard ceremony on Sunday. If we do Athens at the end of our trip, we would be there for three days, and we would rather spend that extra day somewhere else. Also, we thought ending the trip on the island would be more fun for the kids than doing the ruins at the end.

Is Meteora really a 5-hour drive from Athens? I keep seeing that it is 3.5 hours, which would be totally doable for an overnight trip...

We are traveling next July, at the peak of tourist season. There are vehicles available at the moment, and we had thought to take the rental car to the island as the cars on Milos are so much more expensive! But knowing that some rental cars cannot be taken on ferries may change our plans.

Posted by
7048 posts

Makes sense about wanting to be in Athens in a Sunday. And a split stay can be nice, I’ve always liked how I could squeeze in something I missed at the start, or even just wander the city seeing no “sights.”
I would not do the drive at 3.5 hours either, that is just too much time in a car to me—there are so many places you could see instead, I really don’t think it will be a trade off. If it’s the monastery on a cliff aspect you were looking for, the ones at Stemnitsa are also a lovely excursion, and Mystras is fascinating.

Posted by
4221 posts

There are vehicles available at the moment, and we had thought of
taking the rental car to the island since cars on Milos are so much
more expensive!

Where did you look? Rental cars on Milos aren't necessarily more expensive. Beware of very cheap car rental offers!! You'll be in for a lot of trouble.

Not all ferries take cars. For a round trip to Milos, the ticket will cost €170 for the car only , which is the price of about 3 days' rental (the ticket could be more expensive if you take a minivan since there will be 6 of you).

Since you are concerned about prices, a round trip to Milos with a standard car and 6 passengers costs between €700 and €1100 depending on the type of ferry (conventional or high-speed). Cheaper conventional ferries may be night ferries.

Posted by
3829 posts

Welcome to RS Forum! I know that you're very excited about your first visit to Greece, and we want it to be all that you hope for. We also want to help you avoid pitfalls, so we may suggestt big changes. (NOTE: its Vital to give dates up front, since visiting in High Season means very different advice. Here are my Suggestion & why --

DO ISLAND FIRST --- then NAFPLIO -- ATHENS LAST
Getting over jetlag in a HOT, Bustling Big City is a Bad idea, just to see the sunday Guard Change... they have a nice guard change EVERY day around 11 Am, and you can see it at the end. Your gtroup will be cranky & tired... go to a great beach recover & re-energize. And with only 10 Days (U cannot count Day 1 or 12), you cn only do ONE island, plus Athens or you'll be gaga... you'll spend allyour time in transit ..

ISLAND -- SIFNOS!
Please, don't fall for Mios "eye-candy"... it's not real research. This used to be a fun visit, in May or Sept, but now it's been discovered by "Package armies" or the Idle Rich -- now crowded and costly. For your gang I recommend a fab island not yet overwhelmed by tourmobs, because it has no airport... wonderful SIFNOS.! This site - http://sifnos.e-sifnos.com/index.htm -- tells all: click every lilnk!!! Main cost is fast-Ferry, about €86 each (but less than plaine to Milos)... and you can choose a slower, cheaper ferry back PIraeus port. PLAN OPTION - Book car-service like Welcome Pickups to PIRAEUS, catch 3 pm ferry, by 6:30 you can be on a beach! I suggest staying at Platy Gialos beach - since u r planning far ahead, you might be able to get great family apt just 100 yards from the sea, like this -- http://www.giannakas-studios.com/home.htm If it's booked, this island-based website has tons of great recommends - http://www.roomsinsifnos.com/ Your gang can swim, hike, rent a boat for afternoon, have 4 wonderful days.

NAFPLIO & AREA
On early AM day 5, ferry back to PIRAEUS, and pick up car from agency that has both PORT andf AIRPORT offices, and head off for the NAFPLIO/Argolid area. On the way, Stop to see ANCIENT NEMEA (this is the runner-up to Olympia as Ancient Games site... you can enjoy in an hour, no crowds!). Stay just outside of NAFPLIO Old Town, on a beach, if you can snag an apt in this place --- https://www.booking.com/hotel/gr/porto-assini.html 3 nights (2 1/2 days) will fly by! Devote a full day to Nafplio Old Town -- high castle walls, sea-level walk around "point" ... instead ofs expensive crowded hot MYCENAE, I suggest a similar Huge fortress nearby, TIRYNS -- great boulders/view, NO crowd. on Morning of last day, Drive EAST across the Peloponnse "Thumb" to EPIDAURUS, then drive up seacoast to ISTHMUS, stop 30 mins to see/photo Corinth Canal, then get on BIG highway and turn LEFT at ELEFSINA, to take bypass road N of Athens to Airport to return car. Then Metro or Uber to Central ATHENs for final 3 days.
For Nafplio/Argolid Planning -- Study up on this FAB website - http://www.visitnafplio.com/ -- and for browsing, & sharing your Argolid planning iwth teens, i Like this online map - https://euro-map.com/karty-grecii/peloponnes/podrobnaya-turisticheskaya-karta-peloponnesa.jpg ... click & it gets huuge, you navigate using side-slides. Shows all sites mentioned

You don't have time for AcroCorinth or Meteora... save them for your next trip.

Posted by
3644 posts

Milos has an airport and that is a significant advantage. It will be simpler. Greek is surpringly complicated to travel in. I personally would stick with it despite the appeal of Sifnos.

I understand now why you prefer going to Athens first. But I still would go to Milos first if for no other reason than to claim an extra vacation day. It is also hard to start jet lagged in a dense city. Your children will get more out of Athens when they have acclimated to Greece. Otherwise, I am afraid it will just be something to get through.

We were in meteora in June and it was 97. We went out in the morning and then again late afternoon. You won’t be able to work around the heat with one night. Personally, I would only go if you can spend two nights.

It took us five hours to where we were staying the night before flying home. I just looked and the internet says 4 hours. So I am sure it depends on where in Athens you are going to (or from) and whether you stop at all (we did). We also stayed in Kastraki which I would highly recommend but it is further from Athens (but right where the monasteries are). But it certainly isn’t 3.5 hours.

Posted by
13835 posts

Did a quick look at one way car rental to Milos and there is a $300+ one way fee

The cost of a ferry both ways looks no better, $$ wise.

google shows 3.5 to 5.0 hours driving time for Athens-Meteora, depending in when you leave. How long does your family sit in a car without a break? It's a bit over 200 miles so a fuel stop is not needed.

I have found google is optimistic on its drive times, so I would plan for the trip to take closer to the 5 hr than 3.5 hr time frame.

Posted by
795 posts

I am wondering about the interests and preferences of the kids. Have not been to Nafplion, but found Meteora jaw-dropping and Sifnos is the island that draws us back to Greece. Milos has some interesting, Instagram worthy, geological formations but otherwise is more touristy, less friendly, less interesting and has less to do than other islands. Our first trip to Greece, on arrival, we drove directly to Delphi; visited the historic site the next morning, then drove on to Meteora; from there, drove back to Piraeus to catch the ferry to Sifnos; next, went to Milos via ferry; and then took a flight back to Athens to explore before returning home. It was an awesome trip and we fell in love with Greece (though if we were to do it over, we would skip Milos). Wishing you the same!

Posted by
4221 posts

Your first draft sounds good in theory, but has a few practical flaws. You've likely noticed that anyone here who knows Greece well has pointed this out to you, and there's a good reason for that: Traveling in Greece requires factoring in a lot of basic logistics that you won't find in travel brochures, and you can't just snap your fingers and get from one place to another.

Based on the day count or your draft, if DAY 2 is a Sunday, then DAY 9 should be one too.

By starting with an island, whichever one you choose, then heading to Nafplio, and saving Athens for the end, I think you could move the changing of the guard to DAY 9:

Here is another draft:

Saturday DAY 1: Athens - flight to island, Night 1

Sunday DAY 2: Island, Night 2

Monday DAY 3: Island, Night 3

Tuesday DAY 4: Island, Night 4

Wednesday DAY 5: Island - ferry (or flight) to Athens - car rental - Nafplio, Night 1

Thursday DAY 6: Nafplio, Night 2

Friday DAY 7: Nafplio, Night 3

Saturday DAY 8: Nafplio - Athens, Night 1

Sunday DAY 9: Athens, Night 2

Monday DAY 10: Athens, Night 3

Tuesday DAY 11: Athens, Night 4

Wednesday DAY 12: Flight home

That being said, structuring a two-week trip around a 45-minute ceremony seems a bit excessive. Especially since while the Sunday 11 am changing of the guard is special, changes happen every day, every hour, and even outside of the main tourist areas (I can point out some alternative spots).

There's easily enough to do in Athens to keep you busy for 3 days even if you aren't huge fans of ancient history. If your teenagers are of legal age, they can even go out at night without any safety concerns.

Plus, you can dedicate a day to a day trip, for example, to Cape Sounion, which is about an hour away from Athens.

Posted by
8 posts

Thank you for all the pointers. Naturally, everyone has their own experience to base their advice on, and it seems the interests are different. The reason we want to end with the island is the kids would love to finish with something relaxing after seeing the sights (ruins, etc). Our kids have done lots of road tripping (Canada 10 hours one stop every summer, Turkey last year 5 hours, then 7 hours, etc.) We're not worried about the driving part of it.
You are all giving us lots to think about! We'll have to revisit the itinerary with everything you told us in mind.

Posted by
3829 posts

It's good to be aware of the way Greece works -- weather-wise & tourist-wise. The later you wait in July, the hotter it may get, and the thicker the crowds on island beaches (because of European "holiday" schedules) ... and Athens, conversely, will start emptying out, later in July. You could strategize to just do 2 days of Athens at the end, and low-key it ... stay in a small apartment on he SOUTH side of Acropolis area, in the small lanes of low-rise buildings, and lots of trees, and parks.

Have a minimal sightseeing thing -- maybe go up on acropolis at 4 pm, when crowds are gone ,,, beforehand, go to Acropolis museum late morning (teens like to sleep late), and have a lovely lunch (at reasonable prices) in its glassed-in (air conditioned) terrace restaurant looking Up at the Parthenon. On the top floor of that museum, an excellent 25-minute film both animated and live-action -- gives complete history of Parthenon & all Acropolis famout buildings ... history that kids/adults alike enjoy. One day you could watch the guard exchange at 11, then wander through the National Garden by the Parliament/Palace ... it's full of huge trees, tropical plants, ponds etc... has a cute cafe right in a pathway, overhung with vines. You could walk downhill fdrom Acropoiis a few blcoks to the Original Olympic Statdium (For the revival of the Olympic Games in ?1906? it was restored ffom its orginal state from 2000+ years ago.

Maybe just 2 days in Athens, and on final day, check out of Central Athens hotel/apt, and go to a place by a BEACH, right near the Airport, HOtel AVRA, which has a FREE shuttle from & back to Airport 24/7. IT's at the edge of the small port village of Rafina, so for your final night you could again have a village-type greek dinner under the trees, in the small town square. Not Biggie Athens... a village finale.

Posted by
367 posts

For what it's worth, you can do a beach day while in Athens, so it's not all ruins, by going to the Athenian Riviera. Beaches, restaurants, and if you're interested the Temple of Poseidon in Sounio.

Posted by
8 posts

We're wondering if we should forego staying in Nafplio and do day trips to the region from Athens in order to simplify the logistics. What do you think? Are there places similar to Nafplio in Athens or closer to Athens?

Posted by
8 posts

I know a few people have said to not do Meteora, but it's an absolute must for the kids--they insist on experiencing it.
So, we're trying to simplify the trip, Perhaps we should do a couple nights in Meteora and stay in Athens the rest of the time (with the exception of Milos). We could day trips to the ruins by Nafplio from Athens. Is that reasonable?

Posted by
3829 posts

Annie, who's paying for the trip, you or the Kids?? About Meteora... Have you asked them to look back and remember if they've taken trips that involve starting with a 4+ hour drive straight through, staying one night, and a 4 hour straight drive back. When you have only 10 days, it just doesn't make sense.

And if your kids like scenery, have you showed them the stunning view from atop Palamidi, the cliff/mountain that towers over Nafplio and the bay?? Photos that look as if taken from a plane were just taken from the Fortress walls! And instead of being limited to monasteries, Nafplio has a myriad of high points & trails... This YouTube has about 6 videos of just a few palces to climb & explore in/around Nafplio. https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLjKcEZPX-NEUnghzWo1EM3kA-EAkZzpYz PLUS, there are great beaches & swim places all around. And instead of Mycenae, huge TIRYNS fortress is just outside town -- Huuuuge boulder sides, and no crowds.

PLUS, the drive to Nafplio, right off the highway, the kids can visit an actual "Olympia runner-up" Sacred Games Site, ANCIENT NEMEA, where they can walk thru the actual "hero" tunnel of athletes... and in the stadium, race each other off starting-blocks 2400 years old. http://nemeangames.org/

Over the years, I've recommended to dozens of families with children aged 9 - 18 who are active & like climbing and adventure, to soend time in Nafplio & area. They'vee all reported having great times, many of the kids said it was their favorite part. And no, a Day trip would be all driving, no fun.... just like the drive to Meteora.

Posted by
7048 posts

If you prefer including Meteora, I would just make it fully replace the Peloponnese and save that for a future trip. There are a number of stops you could add so it’s not just a long drive up there and back. The Bradt guide is excellent. I’ve planned my northern Greece trip but have not taken it yet.
We can only tell you what we would do in your shoes, and for me it is absolutely an either/or situation, not both, good luck!

Posted by
3644 posts

Can you add another day or two? We went to four places with 14 nights (Santorini 3, Naxos 4, Nafplio 4, Athens 3) but you have only 11 for four places.

If you must do all of them then you really ought to save the Athens night by going straight to Milos upon arrival as many of us have suggested. Then take that night and give it to Meteora. It is just too much to go there in July for one night.

Then you would have 4 nights Milos, 2 nights Meteora, 3 nights Nafplio, and 2 nights Athens.

But in my opinion something has to give-either Meteora, ending on an island, or the number of days. Maybe let the kids choose whether they would rather end on an island or go to Meteora, if you can’t add at least another night.

PS and I agree with Janet that Nafplio is very kid friendly. Your older ones can wander around safely. Half my gang liked it best.

Posted by
2410 posts

I agree with the others that you should start your trip in Milos. But how about taking a night from Milos (I think 3 will be enough) and adding it to Athens — and using that third Athens day to take a day trip to the nearby island of Aegina? It’s a short ferry ride, and there are several ferries daily. That would give you the Greek ferry experience & give your kids their last day on an island. Then come back to your Athens hotel for the final night.

So you would have: 3 nights Milos, 2 nights Meteora, 3 nights Nafplio, 3 nights Athens.

Posted by
8 posts

CharleneB, you literally read my mind! That's what I just did... we added a day in Athens and I have all the tabs opened for Aegina island day trip! I think this may work well.

Posted by
2410 posts

Ah! Great minds … I hope you can work it all out and that you have a wonderful trip.

Posted by
3829 posts

Here is a complete photo-album guide for Daytrip to Aegina -- http://www.flickr.com/photos/36264706@N03/sets/72157621604646139/detail/ it is literally step=by-step .. it was put on internet 16 years ago, but Aegina has not changed greatly, except some improvements: Important to note:

• Athenians overwhelm Aegina on weekends; So you should go M - F
• Avoid Hydrofoil ferries (no decks; trapped inside, no view); always take open-deck ferry as shown
• Album shows car rental but E-bikes & ATVs now available for rental
• Many beaches, but w limited-time of day trip, Ag Marina may be best. W car, another near port town, Marathona, is an option
• Both Green Line & Blue line Metro now go to Pireaus (30 mins). Ask your landlord/hotel which one in yr area.

Posted by
3070 posts

I hate to be the voice of dissent here, but I actually disagree with the common wisdom of starting at the island and then ending up in Athens. I like to end my big trips with a "vacation from my vacation" as Rick says. Despite jet lag, you'll have more energy to start and you can relax at the end. This is very individual, but I have done both and much prefer "chaos to start, chill later". But I also actively enjoy large cities and their chaos which a lot of people don't - I've met many Americans who don't like Athens. So something to consider.

My other feedback: I haven't been to Milos but LOVED Sifnos. But you are moving around too much between too many geographically far-flung areas on this trip. I would either make this an Athens and Peloponnese only trip (with a day trip to an island or a boat trip to several) or Athens/Napflio/Saronic gulf island of your choice (Hydra, Aegnia, my personal little slice of heaven, Agistri). It's true none of these have the classic Cyclades "look" of the whitewashed style people associate with Greece, but it's a much longer and more expensive ferry trip with less flexibility than going to any Saronic island from Athens/Piraeus or Napflio which is cheap, fast, and a different enough vibe from the mainland.

Keep in mind you[re counting this as 12 days but it's 10 on the ground.

If I had 10 days for a first time in Greece, as someone who's done 10+ trips to Greece, with my own travel preferences in mind which may not be yours, I'd do, based on full days on the ground:
Day 1: Athens
Day 2: Athens
Day 3: Rent a car to Napflio from Piraeus, stopping at Corinth canal and possibly Mycenae on the way (or do Mycenae the next day)
Day 4: Napflio & a bit of chill
Day 5: Epidaurus, possible day trip to Hydra/another island or Mycenae if you didn't do it earlier (it's a 45 minute drive!)
Day 6: Drive back to Piraeus taking in any sites you've missed along the way, evening ferry to Agistri
Day 7: Relax in Agistri/go to Aponisos for the afternoon
Day 8: Full day boat trip with Christos/Jamacia Water Taxi which takes you to multiple Saronic islands and is an amazing day out (he's on Below Deck: Med fwiw!)
Day 9: Half-day trip to Aegnia
Day 10: Relax in Agistri

You can easily sub in your islands of choice here, there's various convenient connections by water from the Peloponnese to various Saronic islands. But to me this is the right mix of busy/sightseeing and relaxation. Could easily add a day to Athens but not everyone would agree.

Your original plan isn't bad either except for the long detour to Meteora. We did an Athens/Agistri/Sifnos trip in 2023 and it was cool to finally a proper Cycladic island and they have the best capers I've ever eaten. But I still prefer my Agistri.

Edit: Just saw your kids are insisting on Meeaora. Still totally doable, but I would then eliminate either the island part or the Peloponnese part and do Delphi as well. Or you could do one of those big bus trips from Athens as a day trip to see it. I wouldn't love it, but you could. But I'd still try to talk them out of it, yes it's super dramatic but it just interrupts any flow that makes sense for everything else y'all want to see.

Posted by
8 posts

Janet,
thank you so much for the Aegina pointers! (I clicked on the link, however, and it would not open. I will try again from a different computer and phone)

Posted by
8 posts

Sarah, thank you for all the tips!
I was debating between Milos and Sifnos--we were actually hoping to do both before we decided to see more stuff inland. We settled on Milos because we'll be flying to save time. Without a car, would you suggest Aegina or Agistri (we may have only one day)?

Posted by
3829 posts

Re Aegina phto allbum -- DO try a regular computer not a phone, I tired that link on my Mac opened up fine.

Even without a Car, I would suggest Aegina for several reasons
• the big open-deck ferries go straight to Aegina, to the smaller Angistri, you may gt just a hyrdofoil

• Angistri really very small ... if you do it, best beach is right near dock... u can walk thru a tree area, not too much otherwise
AEGINA
• Since u will be in Athens, the night before this daytrip, go to ticket agency near your apt/hotel (agencies are in almost every block in central Athens), and see timetable & get outbound tickets. One less thing to do. Get the inbound tickets right when you dock at Aegna check return times & buy then.
• if there are 6 of you, a rental car would be cheaper than renting e-bikes. With all your flying around, surely you can pop for €50 or so -- it will be a lot cheaper than Milos cars.
•IF not renting car or E-bikes -- right near dock is BUS STOP wi timetable. Inquire about cost & whterh u pay in Euros or (as one can now eo in Athens) by zipping a Visa or Mastercard thru a machine onboard.
* Bus goes on Main Road (only road?) inland uphill to Temple of Aphaia, where you get off. A FAB 360° view, but after 15 mins u r ready to move on,... and busse come very seldom.
• My discovery ... walk down the road about 100 yard & you see a path going down a steep hill -- way back when, there was a sign on a tree "SHORT cut to Ag. Marina" (maybe an official sign now). You scamper down the path and in 100-200 yards... a paved walk into this beach village.
• My next move... walked along beach w my towel ... found a place to sit (or u can rent a sunbed). A number of cafes for lunch. i sat & ordered a Coke, then I went to hte restroom & changed into my swimsuit. After my swim, i sat at a table, ordered some lunch & went into restroom & changed back into my polo shirt & slacks.
• You can ask during lunch what time next bus is, and where is bus stop, and time your stay accordingly.
• The last open-deck ferry usually goes around 6 - 6:15 pm (1800). Plenty of seafront cafes for ice cream, beer, etc. It's fun to walk the back streets of Port Town, explore local groceries & hardrware & home-decor shops ... not touristy, these are for the Greeks who live there.

Posted by
3070 posts

I've been to Aegnia and Agistri many many many times, but only day-tripped to Aegnia, while staying on Agistri. That said, I disagree with the above poster, while Agistri is small it has many beaches. There is a shallow, sandy one right at Skala, which is now considered the main harbor. If you go left from there, there are shallow, pebbly beaches with beach clubs for quite a ways. If you go right, there's a short hill into the pine forest, from there you can have breakfast or lunch at Hotel Kekrefalia, where we used to stay, which grants you access to their "beach" platform, which IMO is the best experience - no sand, all relaxation, the most beautiful water. You can keep going up the hill to Skrili beach, which you descend briefly down a steep stone staircase (no handholds). I adore this beach, especially in the morning, but it's narrow and gets crowded by 11am in busy season. Two weeks ago I swam there from another hotel that doesn't offer beach access to people who aren't staying there, because at my age/stability it's easier to go up the steps than go down! Then you can continue further into the beautiful pine forest for amazing views and perhaps the most famous beach on the island, but it's a serious, very difficult scramble to get down to it. Even my hardcore hiker friends won't do it - i've only visited by boat, which you can rent as well.

The most beautiful swimming area is probably on the other side of the island, which is only 10 minutes by taxi or about 30 by bus, Aponisos, which does have a small fee but is absolutely stunning. There is a fish taverna that may rate highly although I find if you don't arrive by yacht, they don't much care about you.

The real main town, Milos, is small and hilly but has a beautiful church, but yes, but tourist standards, Agistri is pretty much there for beaching and relaxation.

Aegnia has a lot more going on, but the beaches aren't as nice. The old town is charming, has some lovely little fish tavernas, and really cool ruins you need to take a bus or taxi to get to. We did once and walked down to the village on the other side, but I wouldn't recommend that. Very impressive ruins, though!

I prefer to relax on Agistri and visit Aegnia as a half-day or day trip, but this is when I was living in Europe and Agistri was my beach vacation. That may not be a fit for everyone, but it's a little slice of paradise for me and everyone I've taken there has returned.

Also the previous poster is wrong, Agistri is served by the same large car ferries that go to Aegina. In high season, there's so many ferries these days, it's crazy. We did take a hydrfoil back, because it fit into our timing of catching a flight, but we always take the slow boat over and enjoy the ride and views on the outside deck when we can.\

Edit: To answer your car versus no car, that's a no-brainer, Agistri doesn't have many cars, people either rent e-bikes, scooters, or take taxis or the one bus (which just goes to Aponsisos) to get around. I've never rented any kind of vehicle in my time there although I was tempted to rent e-bikes.

Aegnia is more difficult without a car. We wanted to take a bus to the ruins up the hill, but despite waiting it didn't appear to be running, so we took a taxi. We asked him to come back in 2 hours to get us, but he didn't and we didn't have good cell reception at the time so we literally couldn't get a taxi up there which is why we scrambled down a rocky gulch and along a road with tour buses with no walkway (kinda scary!) to get to the nearest town, where we had the restaurant call us a cab so we could get back to port. Aegnia anywhere outside Aegnia town is best explored by vehicle IMO.