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Father/Daughter trip to Athens & the Peloponnese over Christmas Holidays - Questions

Hello,

I’m planning on doing a father/daughter trip to Greece with my teenage daughter. She was always very interested in Greek Mythology and (Ancient) Greek Literature and so she has been wanting to visit Greece for a while. And we are particularly interested in visiting ancient historical sites.

I have the air tickets booked (Dec. 26 thru Jan 8th - 14 days total) but nothing else. I’ve never been to Greece so far. And it’s been a while since I’ve planned a trip like this. I’m a bit overwhelmed and now realizing why people opt for the packaged tours! I have lots of questions. Feel free to weigh in on any advice you want to share! Thanks!

The plan is to spend 2-3 days seeing the main sights in Athens, then using a rental car to explore the Peloponnese, then loop up to the “mainland” to visit Meteora and Delphi on the way back to Athens and our flight home.

Some questions:

  • We are scheduled to arrive at the Athens Airport at 1:15 AM on a Monday morning. Looks like the Metro will be closed. Should I take one of the bus services, or just take a taxi? (We don’t have a place in Athens yet, but I’m planning on getting something in the Plaka or nearby).
  • I was planning on having reservations for a place to stay only for Athens, and then not having reservations but just "play it by ear" finding rooms/hotels as we go. (I have been told that since we are off season it should be easy to find places… Is this good advice? Or do you think I am making a big mistake?
  • Any recommendations on how to go about renting a car?
  • What is the best way to get a SIM card for my Android phone so I can have cell phone and data service there.
  • A big question in my mind: Is Santorni a “must see” and should we arrange our schedule to make time for it? It seems remote enough to make logistics a hassle, but I don’t know when we are going to Greece next… Also, I notice that Rick Steves seems to think that the island of Hydra is more a “must see” than Santorini-should we consider that instead?

===
The tentative itinerary so far:

--Days 1-3 days in Athens to cover the Acropolis, Acropolis Museum, National Archeological Museum and do Rick Steve’s walking tour. (I realize we should be able to cover these in two busy days, but since we are arriving in the early AM after 20 hours of traveling from LA, I figured Day 1 might be mostly sacrificed to getting rest and dealing with jet lag. Plus it is December 26th, the day after Christmas, and it looks like just about everything is closed.
-- Day 4 - Rent car, stop by Corinth and the Acrocornith, - Sleep in Nafplio
-- Day 5 - See Nafplio. visit the big theater at Epidavos. - Sleep in Nafplio
-- Day 6 - Visit Mycenae and Nemea - Sleep in Nafplio?
-- Day 7 (New Year’s Day - lots of sites closed it seems) Stop by the site of ancient Sparta and the Mystras on the way to Montevasia. Stay in Montevasia.
-- Day 8 Kardamyli
-- Day 9 Koroni & Methoni

-- Day 10 Hiking in the Louisios Gorge
-- Day 11 Olympia
-- Day 12 Drive to Meteora (Monasteries)
- Day 13 See Meteora
-- Day 14 Drive back to Athens stopping at Delphi along the way. Stay in Athens (near the airport if possible). We leave early the next morning.

Posted by
11052 posts

I would add another day to Athens as there is so much to see and explore. You will loose some museum access due to holidays. On our last trip to Athens we took a walking tour with local Kostas of Athens-walks.com and highly recommend him and his company.
Day 6: Yes, sleep in Nafplio. It is a lovely small city. I would definitly book your hotel in advance for Nafplio. it is a very popular get away spot for well to do Athenians.
Day 7. There is lot more than one church to visit in Mystras. you start at the
top of a hill and follow the town all the way to the bottom. It is Byzantine, a nice break from Ancient Greek antiquities. Our Greek friends told us not to miss Mystras! We stayed in Sparta and it was hard to believe what a power it once was, a small city now with 16,000 residents.Our waiter had spent time in the USA.
Day 11. We enjoyed Olympia, the archeological site! many skip it but we were so glad we visited it.
Day 14: I would move Delphi to an overnight. It is so special and the scenery is beautiful, mountains, olive groves to the sea.
Car rentals: We have booked our cars through AutoEurope.com for over twenty years.They are USA based, Portland,ME. We have never had a problem. Their website is clear but you can always call them their 800#
if you have any questions. Highly recommended.
Athens hotels; unlike many on this forum, we avoid the Plaka for hotels, one time was enough. We stay nearby near Syntagma Square. Avoid Electra Palace if you do stay in Plaka.
we like to go up too the top Lycabettus Hill for the views of Athens.It is in the Kolonaki neighborhood, one of Athens' nicest residential areas. You walk or taxi up to a cable car that takes you up to the top.
Restaurants:
Kolonaki: Kafeneio-Original Athenian traditional taverna, address: Loukianou 26. Recommended by Greek friends who used to live nearby.
Near Acropolis; ManiMani
SIM CARD- Go to a SIM store. They will sell you a card like Vodafone or WIND.
Download WHAT'S APP before you go. Your daughter should do this too. It is used heavily in Europe to communicate for free. I use it in the US and Mexico too.
Rick Steves tours use Hydra as it is nearby.
The Cycladic islands tourism will be heavily shut down when you are going. We didn't care for Santorini, very touristy although beautiful,, but perhaps when you are going it would be much better. The view of the caldera and a visit to Akrotiri, the archeological site, would make it worthwhile for you for two nights.

Posted by
75 posts

Thanks, very helpful. I will check out Syntagma Square for accomodations.

Sparta - yes since my daughter is really into the history and mythology of classic Greece, she specifically asked for to visit. Looking it up, I see that it is not highly recommended because there are no spectacular ruins/fortifications. So it turns out that when they said that Sparta's walls were not of stone but of men, they meant it!

Delphi - will see if we can make this an overnight.

Posted by
1383 posts

I’d second the idea of staying overnight in Delphi. If it was me I’d miss out Kardamyli which is pleasant but not that special.

Have you considered going to Delphi in the way to the Meteora rather than the way back? Olympia to Meteora is a bit over 5 hours via Ioannina and a bit over 6 via Delphi. The route via Delphi is more scenic and you could stop in Nafpaktos for coffee or lunch.

If you have the energy on Day 1 you might consider a walk up Philopappos, the hill next to the Acropolis. There are excellent views back across and you can visit the Pnyx, the ancient meeting place, which will be open even on a holiday.

In Nafplio it’s worth visiting Tiryns (‘of the mighty walls’ as Homer says). It’s on the road in from Argos. Oh, and the hilltop fort at Argos is free and has incredible views..

Christmas is a great time to be in Greece. I envy you!

Have a great trip.

Alan

Posted by
1726 posts

As you have noticed, the archaeological sites and museums will be closed on the day of your arrival (Dec 26) as well as January 1st.
You will therefore only have days 2 and 3 left to visit Athens, which may not be enough if you and your daughter want to have enough time to visit Athens.

In order to optimize your stay in Athens, note that in winter the museums and sites close earlier (around 3.30 /4:30 p.m.), the National Archaeological Museum will be closed on Tuesday Dec 27th morning but open from 1:00 p.m. to 8:00 p.m.

I was planning on having reservations for a place to stay only for Athens, and then not having reservations but just play it by ear
finding rooms/hotels as we go

I do not advise you to arrive around 2am or 3am in Athens after a transatlantic flight without having reserved a room.
I don't usually recommend the Plaka/Syntagma district, but in your case it's still the best option to optimize your stay and visits in Athens.

If you find a hotel close to Syntagma Square you can take the bus (at 1:15am there will be no metro at the airport)
The X95 bus that goes to Syntagma Square operates 24 hours a day. The ticket costs 5.5€.

The best option is still the taxi.
The price of the taxi to go to Athens center is 55€ from midnight to 5:00 am. It's a flat fare. Don't be fooled by drivers trying to overcharge you with false pretenses such as extra baggage or tolls.

You can also book a taxi with https://www.welcomepickups.com/athens/
It costs a few euros more but the driver will wait for you at the airport with your name on a sign (and they speak english)

In Athens you will find prepaid SIM cards in many shops. Vodaphone and Cosmote are the two main Greek operators.

Posted by
14801 posts

I second the suggestion of Welcome Pickups. I've used them twice and both times were excellent. I will use them again.

Posted by
2462 posts

Regarding car rental: We have on two different trips rented from Athens Car Rental at the airport. They are a local company that was recommended by several regular visitors to Greece. They are not located at the airport but meet you there. They are less inexpensive than the majors.

Posted by
4211 posts

The drive into Kardamyli was a little hairy--that would definitely be weather-dependent, and that part of the trip gets a little rushed given what I remember about drive times. Have you mapped all of these drives?
Where did you want to stay for Louisios gorge? That could also be weather-dependent, but it's a popular weekend getaway for Athenians.

Posted by
1152 posts

Looks like the most time will be spent in Peloponnese which I think is a good choice as it's filled with history going all the way back to Mycenean times up to the present.

A car is a must for the Peloponnese as bus services is limited and/or usually for locals like school and work hours.

I think omitting Meteora would be wise as it's a long drive from your last location of Olympia.

The best guide book for the Peloponnese is the Cadogan Guide as it's filled with more info than any other guide. A bit dated (2008) but still very relevant.

There's really nothing left to "ancient" Sparta as the Spartans were not noted for the construction but more towards "destruction" as they were a military might.

The best way to get to Monemvasia from Nafplio is down the coast rather than taking the highway to Sparta then head south and east to Monemvasia on secondary roads.

I stayed in Gythio in the Mani then took the road to Sparta to see Mystras then took the spectacular road through the Langada Pass to Petilidi rather than stay in Koroni/Methoni. It was a good base to explore that part of the Peloponnese.

If you want had to pick between Korini/Methoni I would recommend Korini as it's more characteristic of a Greek town rather than Methoni which was "rebuilt" by the French to look more European with straight roads and a grid like lay out.

Consider the fantastic archeological site of Messini rather than Olympia. It's one of the best and least visited sites anywhere in Greece. A lot still remains unlike other sites and is located in a beautiful rural area. Far less commercialized, developed and over touristy like Olympia.

You don't want to cram to much into the time you have as the more time you go from Point A to Point B eats up time and driving in the Peloponnese is slow going due to the terrain.

Posted by
75 posts

A big thanks to everyone who has replied. It is great to get good advice like this, and it is much appreciated. Very helpful, since I have never been to Greece and haven’t done much international traveling in many years (but have done lots of road trips in the U.S instead).

I do realize that the weather will affect what we do (and how long we stay at some sites), and so that is why I am hoping on using the itinerary more as a “framework” and playing it by ear a bit. Although I do see that all sites will be closed December 26 and January 1, so everything has to be worked in around them, and we have to find activities for those days that don’t require entry to anything.

And also, if the itinerary ends up being too hectic for us, then we would have to back off, maybe skipping some of the sites I have listed. I can go non-stop when I’m traveling, but I will want to calibrate to what my daughter wants to do.

Also, for sure taking Meteora off the itinerary would simplify things and reduce driving time. It’s location isn’t very convenient, but it is iconic and has been recommended to us as a “must-see.” But we might need to leave it for another trip.

Some additional questions:

-- How feasible would it be to visit the Epidaaurus theater, the Mycenae site, and the Nemea site all in one day, starting from and returning to Nafplio? (This would allow us to visit Mystras on New Year’s Eve, because the site will be closed on New Year’s Day.)

-- I see that Steve recommends an all day loop drive of the Mani Peninsula. If you did this, how did you like it? Most of the archeological sites, etc. will be closed on New Year’s Day, and I’m thinking that this drive might be a good activity for that day.

-- I visited Italy this summer (first international trip in years) and was surprised to see that just about EVERYONE accepted credit cards. I ended up using cash Euros hardly at all. Can I expect this in Greece also? Or should I expect to have to pay cash for a lot of things. (And will it be hard to find cash machines in Peloponnese?)

-- How safe will stuff left in our car be while we stop at sites? (Unfortunately, I will have to take a laptop to handle some work stuff…)

Thanks!

Posted by
75 posts

Regarding Sparta, yes, from what I'm seeing there really isn't a lot left. I was thinking we'd just do a brief stop there just to see it (what is left), but spending most of the time we have on that day in Mystras.

Posted by
75 posts

An additional thought: As I mentioned, we are flying into Athens at 1:15 AM on the day after Christmas, December 26th. And I see that December 26th is one of the major Greek holidays (right up there with Easter, Christmas Day, New Year's Day and their Independence Day) on which almost everything is closed. I wonder if that might be a good day to do a day trip to Hydra if it is not too hectic... Or is that a bad idea? (Probably only I can answer that! :-) )

Posted by
1726 posts

In my humble opinion, wanting to make a day trip to Hydra the day of your arrival when you have hardly slept after a transatlantic flight, is not a good idea. Especially on a holiday day.
Just because RS went to this island doesn't mean you have to do the same. He could have gone to Aegina which is much closer to Piraeus.

Going to Hydra involves about 3 hours of travel to get there and as much to return. (you have to go to Piraeus, check the ferry schedules, the ferry crossing takes about 2 hours)

If you want to keep busy during this day of December 26, you will have many more choices in Athens where there are plenty of things to see and do even if the museums are closed.
You can walk in Plaka, find the small district of Anafiotika, go to the district of Psiri via Monastiraki square, go to Mount Lycabettus, in the district of Exarchia to see street art, to the national garden, to the hill of Filopappou, etc.
Just with these few examples, you are busy for 2 full days

Posted by
75 posts

JoLui, I think that is sound advice. We're going to keep the first day in Athens local and low-key.

Posted by
75 posts

"The price of the taxi to go to Athens center is 55€ from midnight to 5:00 am. It's a flat fare. Don't be fooled by drivers trying to overcharge you with false pretenses such as extra baggage or tolls."

We booked small hotel (Palladian Home) in the Plaka. They are offering to arrange a taxi for us at a cost at the cost of €43,00 euro each way (additional charge €17,00 applies from 23:30 to 5:00), so at the time we arrive it would be 60€. Do you think it is worth having a pre-arranged tax, or is it easier to just take a taxi that is waiting. (On one hand I can see it being helpful to have a pre-arranged taxi if they are hard to get, but on the other hand, if I have trouble finding them it might be easier to just take whatever taxi is waiting...)

Posted by
75 posts

We did reserve a car through Auto Europe. The rental care company is Volta4U and their lot is right outside the Athens Airport. So on the morning of Day 4 we will take the bus or at taxi back to the airport to pick it up.

I'm scheduled to drop it off the evening before we leave, but am now wondering if dropping it off in the morning before the flight is better.

Posted by
1726 posts

€60 is the standard nightly rate for a pre-booked taxi.
The hotel only makes reservations on a service such as welcomepickups, just like you can do it yourself.

Advantages of a pre-arranged taxi are:

The driver knows in advance which hotel he has to go to

He is waiting for you at the airport

You know what you are going to pay.

If the Palladian Home is the one on Farmaki Street, it is in a good location. I hope that the taxi will be able to access it because it is a mainly pedestrian street (in the middle of the night this should not be a problem)

Anyway it's too far from Syntagma square (1/2 mi) to take the X95 bus from the airport and finish the journey on foot in the middle of the night.

Posted by
1726 posts

I'm scheduled to drop it off the evening before we leave, but am now
wondering if dropping it off in the morning before the flight is
better.

If, on day 14, you do not need or want to return to Athens and prefer to stay close to the airport, you can spend the last night at the Avra ​​hotel in Rafina.
https://www.hotelavra.gr/

It is located about 20 minutes from the airport, at the port of Rafina.
The hotel has a free shuttle (every hour).
On day 14 you return the car. and you take the hotel shuttle.
You spend the evening in Rafina where you will find some restaurants and taverns.

The next day you take the hotel shuttle to go to the airport and take your flight.

The only imperative is, when booking, to inform the hotel when you will need to take their shuttle

Posted by
75 posts

Thank you, JoLui, very helpful! I will let them arrange a tax. We'll have spent 24 hours nonstop in airplanes and airports, so I expect we will be dead on our feet. Waiting for the bus, taking the bus, getting from the bus stop to our hotel--well, that doesn't sound very attractive under these circumstances!

Posted by
75 posts

All the advice I have gotten here has been great, and I really appreciate it.

In taking this advice and in thinking it over and starting to finalize my itinerary, I thought that Day 5 probably was too much. And we should have a bit more time to see and enjoy Nafplio and Monemvasia. Also, we think we should probably let go of Koroni & Methoni.

And a hard choice for me: I think we have to give up the Corinth/Acrocorinth sites and so visit Mycenae on the drive from Athens to Nafplio. (The alternative would be to give up one of the following: Monemvasia, Mystra/Sparta, or Meteora. I suspect those are all higher on the "must see" list than Corinth, especially since we will already be visiting Mycenae.

Our updated itinerary:

Day 1 - Dec. 26 (Mon) - Arrive Athens 1:15 AM (After 21 ½ hours of flights+airport layover) - Take bus or taxi to pre-booked hotel at the Plaka. Recover from jet lag, do Rick Steves City Walk, etc. (Stay in the Plaka) NOTE: Everything will be closed due to Christmas.

Day 2 - Dec. 27 (Tues) - Athens - Visit the Parthenon, Acropolis, Agora, etc. (Stay in the Plaka)

Day 3 - Dec. 28 (Wed) - Athens - Visit the National Archeological Museum (Stay in the Plaka)

Day 4- Dec. 29 (Thurs) - Pick up rental car. Drive to Peloponnese. (Skip visiting Corinth sites) Visit Mycenae (and Nemea if there is time) (Sleep in Nafplio).

Day 5 -Dec. 30 (Fri) - Visit Epidavros and explore Nafplio (Sleep in Nafplio).

Day 6 - Dec. 31 (Sat) - Go to Monemvasia and explore there. (Sleep in Monemvasia).

Day 7 - Jan 1 (Sun) - NEW YEAR'S DAY - Mani Peninsula Drive. (Then, sleep in Sparti).

Day 8 - Jan 2 (Mon) - Visit Sparta and Mystras sites (spending bulk of time at Mystras), go north (Sleep in Megalopolis, or closer to the Louisios Gorge)

Day 9 - Jan 3 (Tues) - Hiking Louisios Gorge and/or Messini ruins (Sleep near Olympia)

Day 10 - Jan 4 (Wed) - Olympia (Sleep near Olympia)

Day 11 - Jan 5 (Thurs) - Drive to Meteora (Stay at Meteora)

Day 12 - Jan 6 (Fri) - Visit Meteora monasteries (Sleep in Meteora)

Day 13 - Jan 7 (Sat) - Delphi (stay at Delphi)

Day 14 - Jan 8 (Sun) - Return to Athens Airport- Return rental car, (Sleep near Athens Airport)

Day 15 - Jan 9 (Mon) - Leave Athens 7:10 AM - (21 1/2 hours of flights/layovers to get home in the USA)

Posted by
75 posts

Update: The trip was great! Very successful! The advice I got here was super helpful! Thanks!

We got SIM cards from the Cosmote store at Syntagma Square. 12 GBs of data and 100 minutes of talk time for 12 Euros. This ended up being very, very helpful, in letting us use uncrippled Google Maps, being able to look things up and to text and call places we were staying at to coordinate via getting the keys or deal with issues. And to get help when our rental car wouldn't start.