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Delphi itinerary help

Hello! Long time lurker, first time poster. My husband and I and my senior parents will be headed to Greece for the first time in September. My parents are in decent health - my dad is still pretty spry but my mom gets tired a little more easily nowadays.

We have 4 nights in Santorini (my dad’s only request and this is a birthday trip for him), 4 nights Nafplio, 2 nights Delphi and 4 nights Athens. I feel like I have a pretty good handle on our itinerary but could use some help with the Delphi portion. I know we can do this as an overnight, but I’m trying to slow down the pace for my parents sake. We will be there Sept 24-26, which happens to be free admission for European Heritage Days, if that matters.

We are open to considering a private tour. It would be nice to see the the Athena Pronaia temple as well, but I think this might be too much walking just to get to and from the site itself, unless we can drive and park nearby? I’d like to save my parents energy for the actual site seeing. We also want to see the Hosios Loukas Monastery. And if our car has enough space to hide all of our luggage in the trunk, we could visit Ancient Corinth on our way to Delphi from Nafplio.

In general I don’t like one night stops as the packing and unpacking even with minimal luggage can feel like a lot. But I’m open to it as long as the schedule isn’t too exhausting. On a related note, we are planning to go to the Temple of Poseidon by bus on one of our Athens days, so perhaps we can juggle things around with that in mind (not sure if it’s in the budget to stay in Sounio itself). I still have not booked our Delphi or Athens accommodations yet. We definitely want to stay 4 nights in Athens regardless. Any feedback is appreciated, thank you!

Posted by
3320 posts

Assorted comments about stops en route etc.

ANCIENT CORINTH -- r u really interested in this, or just because it's on the Highlights list? My friends have enjoyed it but they take things slow & are in early 60s. May be a lot of walking among ruins for parents if they're in 70s & get tired. U need to read up on this. An alternate stop, shorter & more level, en route from Nafplio to Delphi, is ANCIENT NEMEA. It's a "Olympia wanna-be"... the runner-up for Ancient Games. It's just 5 miles off that big highway s. of Corinth ... and is delightful. Has columns of ancient Temple, a good SMALL Museum, beautiful grounds (it was excavated by Archeologo Dept of U Cal Berkeley, so they have the$$$). Also, separate (u drive down road 1/4 mile) a STUNNING stadium! SO much is just as it was... the hero's tunnel... the stands.. even the original starting blocks from 2400 yrs ago. The local area was inspired to Revive the Ancient Games, and in JUne they're holding the 7th REvival... thousands come from around the world to dress in white chitons and race for laurel crowns. I have brought newcomer friends there 2x and they were all thrilled. http://nemeangames.org/ tells about archeology ANd games.. a restful stop

DELPHI - I don't think you need 2 full days unless you want to seek out some churches ... you can come in early afternoon, see museum that day, Day2 @ 8 am, see the ruins part. I understand your wish not to tire your mother too much, & here's my thought. the road into town is uphill & steep .. first you see the AThena Temple, then the Ruins site/temple. KEep going.

You should continue uphill to the "village center" -- really an intersection of an upside-down Y, u are comingin on one arm. Park & find hotel. We booked PAN hotel about 100 yards downhill from intersection. (funny story, hotelier said, we have nice rooms on this same lobby floor behind lobby. We said ??? show us. Walked down corridor into room, out on balcony. Hawks were circling -- 100 feet BELOW us (!)... sheer drop down mountainside, view out thru olive groves to a silvery sea. I said, we'll take it). It was 5pm (if u are earlier, parents could nap an hour). Our landlord said, why dont u got to museum before dinner? It's empty this time. We walked down road, a sidewalk beside the parapet, flags flying, vie down mountain, gorgeous. Museum is WELL-signed easy to understand no one there, enjoyable. It's about 1/2 mi walk at most, downhiil... but 1 of you could walk w pop, the other drive with Mom. At that times, easy to park by site. Then all 4 of you could drive down to Athena Tholos, then back uphill to village center for sunset dinner on a terrace.

Morning of Day 2, be there at 8? 8:15? opening time to tour ruins. Bus crowds don't arrive untiil 10 am or 10:15, by that time u will be higher up on ruins (you walk uphill into them). Don't attempt to go all the way to the top where there's a stadiium because u can 't get in, due to recent rockfalls; (they r afraid rocks will hit tourists who will sue). En route up, there are plenty of low stone walls where one can rest; i know I did. YOu can really benefit from a pvt tour -- there is one in Delphi who is (justly) famous for knowledge & presentation - Georgia Hasioti - http://www.delphi-guide.gr/ her fee is about €60 per hr/2 hr min; she meets u at site (this fee is usual rate). Do not delay in booking - she is sublime & in high demand. Afternoon u can go on to that monastery or, if parents are exhausted, just stay another night

Final tip I give to ALL going to Delphi -- Drink the Water!!! At a simple "diner" terrace, waitress filled glasses from a pitcher; I tasted & gasped; BEST water ever!! I said, what brand?? She said, straight from tap. She pointed up at the mountain above us & said, it comes straight from the snow-pack on Mt Parnassus (the famed Mt of Inspiration!) Next AM before leaving we filled our backpack bottles.

Posted by
5 posts

Thank you for the detailed response Janet! Ancient Corinth is not a must-do for us, I just thought it could be an option to break up the drive. I do have Nemea bookmarked as “maybe if we have time after visiting Mycenae” during our Nafplio stay, but perhaps it’s better suited on our way to Delphi, and we can spend the afternoon after Mycenae either wandering around Nafplio or relaxing on the beach. The tip for being able to drive to the museum and the Athena temple in the late afternoon is exactly the advice I was looking for. I am definitely interested in a private tour at Delphi as well so will contact the tour guide you recommended. I think we will go to Hosios Loukas that afternoon and come back to Delphi for the evening. It’s backtracking a bit but will be less tiring for my parents, and we can leave for Athens in the morning refreshed.

I wasn’t sure if I should create a new topic for this, and hoping it’s ok to just ask here since I am the OP: would you also recommend a private guide for the Acropolis in our circumstances?

Posted by
3320 posts

ATHENS GUIDE -- that would depend on how deep your pockets are... as noted, all licensed Guides have an hourly fee that at last look was around €60 (maybe more with inflation?) and a certain minimum. However, even in a group walk you'd pay €29 each... so ?? With a pvt Guide for 2 hrs, you could cover the basics of the Acropolis.. and you could do it at the time of day you want. just a thought.
However, have you even looked at the fab opportunity offered FREE on this very website by dear Mr Steves? Let me introduce you to Site Research:
•  Look at LH corner -- Watch read listen -- click on that
•  IN menu click AUDIO TOURS
•  IN Audio menu under GReece - you will see ACROPOLIS, ANCIENT AGORA, ATHENS CITY WALK, NAT ARCH MUSEUM
-- ... step-by-step DIY tours, same info as in his guidebooks + more ... and ALL FREE
• In AUdio Eurpe App - shows u how to get the FREE apps ... if you want to get them on your Phone (which you do)
... you might want to listen to these ahead of time - if they do the trick for you, again, you can use on your own schedule

Posted by
3320 posts

YOur remark about Nafplio, "wandering around town or relaxing at the Beach" makes me wonder if you've done any reading about Nafplio yet. I recommend HIGHLY study of "VISIT NAFPLIO" website and clicking EVERY link. THe "town beach" which is on other side of the Nafplio cliff/peninsula, is a fun fun adventure, but a long dwnhiill walk from the parking area to reach, not good fr your parents... or also a looong walk arond the sealevel peninsula path. There are several oher options shown on this website

• BANIERES -- This is an unknown treat for a good swim! At sea-level, just around the Point, used to be Nafplio's Lido. It's for swimmers... all deep water, encircled by chains, but SO refreshing... there's also seating, and a bar -- and (if its open) AGnanti restaurant is good for a sunset dinner.

• Just out of town is the big busy TOLO Beach which I don't like much... in hgih season its crammed with package-holiday crowds, there's no changing rooms/restrooms, sands aren't kept that tidy...
HOWEVER -- if you drive just south of it on the coastal road, across from the RUine of ASINE< is KASTRAKI --- an adorable little gravel beach & ONE tAverna. You change in their restroom, use their sunbeds, have a dip, and later climb to their terrace for a beverage... or stay for dinner!. I found this on my own, back in 2009, and since then have dellighted travel companions with my secret Gem. NOTE: this little cove is perfect example of why -- instead of flip-flops -- you pack "water shoes"... you can get them cheap at Walmarts etc .. then you can enjoy every beach, & step into the water without an "ouchy" if its a stony entr.

FINAL PLUS -- The FIRST hotel to book... even before Santorini -- is Hotel AGAMEMNON in Nafplio. ALmost the ONLY hotel right on the seafront with unobstructed balcony views of the sea. Ideal location and for some reasonl, itis also modoerate price. Lovely buffet breakfast in glassed in lobby. AND IT has an elevator (!). I've stayed all over Nafplio until I fouond this, and now I would choose this above all. Book TODAY>

Posted by
5 posts

I have actually done extensive research on the Visit Nafplio site, my comment was more about perhaps taking it slow in the afternoon rather than trying to fit in another site. I understand that the closest town beach is not the best but thought a couple of hours of downtime at one of the nearby beaches would be a good way to wind down at least once during our stay, so thank you for the suggestions. I doubt we will be able to fit in everything but have a good idea of what are our must-sees and what we would like to fit in if we have the time and energy. I appreciate the feedback!

Posted by
1 posts

We are going to Delphi for the day and have hired a private driver for the six of us. My question is: Can we experience Delphi on our own or do we absolutely need a guide for the site, museum, etc?

Posted by
3320 posts

This is a reply to THom who is "piggybacking" on another's thread (tip for future - start your own thread or you may miss out .... I almost did not open this, because had finished advising Celerymar, and did not think I had anything to add... piggybackin risks not getting an answer).

Thom, the Museum is well signaged, and you can appreciate much of the display, especially if you go before or aafter the crowds from bus tours between 11 am - 2pm. As for being able to "experience" the site without a licensed (and yes, costly) guide... of course you can.. IF you are willing to do advance homework, read up on it, and bring print-outs & maps. Otherwise, it can be a lot of rocks in a scenic mountain setting.

I got a great deal out of delphi on my own... of course I have a long shelf of books on ancient greece & archeology, have audited 5 courses at U of Penn on same, plus a lot of internet reading. Do you have any guidebooks? The best for classic site is BLUE GUIDE fo GREECE (usually can't take from Library but u can photocopy Delphi section ... R Steves has a kind of basic approach
MY FAVORITE LINKS for ADVANCE PREP & PRINT to TAKE -- Havent rechecked in 2 yrs to see if all still work;

Best Maps of site! (Printable maps of Museum, Sacred Precinct, Wider area)
http://www.planetware.com/map/delphi-map-gr-del.htm
• Sacred Destinations http://www.sacred-destinations.com/greece/delphi
Lots of ads, but also good info; see menu on side
http://www.ancient-greece.org/archaeology/delphi-archaeology.html
"Dr J's Delphi" http://people.hsc.edu/drjclassics/sites/delphi/sacredway.shtm
NOTE: click items in SIDE MENU for complete photos & explanatory text. SUPER!
Surprisingly good & succinct for Wikipedia --- http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Delphi

Posted by
279 posts

First, Janet you are a wealth of information.

First timers here in Greece driving all over everything Meteora south (currently in Monenvasia and leaving today for Nafplion). For those who don't live in a windy road state, the drive to Delphi can be intimidating. We live in CA and it was tough for us. Although the roads are in great shape, the Greek drivers are impatient and pass on blind curves.

Celerymar, since your mom is walking a bit slow these days, a small car is best. There are no parking lots unless you stay in one of the "resorts." We stayed at the Acropole hotel which has rooms on the main floor (actually the 3rd floor) of the hotel lobby with amazing views of the sea and mountains. It's a 10 minute sloping walk to the archaeological site. There is minimal parking at the museum, although there does seem to be some parking at the Athena site. We met our guide Georgia (that Janet mentioned) who was wonderful. She got us passed the tour groups in the queue and shared so much of her knowledge. We were at the museum at 8:30 when they opened and because it's Easter, student tour groups are everywhere. There is a lot of walking up hills and it was warm even at 10:30 in the morning.

We loved Delphi because of the terrain, the views, and the vibe of the village. Consider a driver for an overnight trip. That way you don't have to drive to and from and you get a nice stay. I don't know how far Delphi is from Nafplion. From Athens it's about 2.5 hours. If you have the chance eat a meal at Patrikko Mas......amazing food, and one of the best of our trip. BTW, Olympia is a much easier site to visit, as it's on flat land and not a hillside.

In Athens, I'd recommend booking The Zillers and get rooms with a view of the Acropolis and the Metropolis Church. Although, the street can be busy at times and the bells ring every hour during the night, the location, the breakfasts, the staff which went above and beyond for us even after we left. Greek is a tough language to negotiate and they know it. We took the Athens Walking Tours, groups up to about 8 and it is a lot of walking. For your mom, maybe they would allow the use of one of 2 elevators for those with disabilities. Go early, as there is little shade. Our guide Daphne was knowledgeable, and graduated with a degree in archaeology. We had a food walking tour with the same company with Irini who took us to some great places in the Psyri neighborhood. She was most excellent, and although her degree was in marketing, she knew her neighborhood, was entertaining, and would appeal to old and new.

I hope this adds to your itinerary and suggestions that Janet made. Have fun!

Posted by
3320 posts

THAnks Sue! I just try to maximize people's enjoyment, but even more important is helping them avoid pitfalls. Your advice to Celerymar is very apt, especially about people who tire more easily these days (like me!). Luckily, unlike most of USA towns & villages, in GReece there are places everywhere to sit down for a bit... when it's not a chair, it's a stone wall, or a step, or even a random ancient ruin. Here in philly, we have rowhouses with nice marble "stoops" that I employ on my daily walks (so boring, thus I motivate with podcasts about Ancient Minoans, Mycenaeans etc).

Sue, if you've read any of my gushings about Nafplio u know how I love it!! What a surprise when I first discovered it, and a joy each time I return. Best sunsets ever.