We're going to be in Crete for 7 nights in early September. Flying in and out of Heraklion. We'll have a car the whole time. We're planning on staying in 2 hotels only - one in Eastern Crete for 3 nights (probably in Hersonissos) and the other in Western Crete for 4 nights - either in Chania or Rethymno.
My question is where to base ourselves in Western Crete. I know that it's all about personal preference but I'd like to hear some opinions. We're a 65+ active couple but we're not planning on any strenuous hikes or a hectic pace. On the other hand, we're not planning on lying on the beach - we want to visit interesting sites, villages and see great views. After reading up on the Net, I've come to the conclusion that Chania will be the furthest west we'll go this trip. Rethymno seems to be the best situated for day trips and the hotels I've looked at give us the combination of beach/pool option after our day trips but what is it like at night? At night, we want to enjoy tavernas with live music and a place where we can wander about.
Thanks for your input.
Posted by
NH (USA)
1157 posts
We stayed in Chania for 8 nights and enjoyed our time there. We stayed just off Theotokopolou St. which is probably the best area in the Old Town. Lots of shops,markets and tavernas within walking distance. Lovely waterfront and not to far from the New Town which is where most of the locals live. Lots of small shops but "modern" but still Greek. Large Agora at the edge of the Old Town with more shops and eateries.
Rethymno is basically a smaller version of Chania with the same characteristics but less to do.
September will be the start of the off season so things will slow down a bit but still very lively. Lots of locals come from New Town to Chania's Old Town, but if you walk to the Splanzia District it will be less crowded but still very lovely with lots of colorful buildings, archeological sites, etc.
It all depends on preferences. Do you want more to do but a bit more crowded then Chania. If you want less people and less options Rethymno.
I think either would provide a lovely experience but feel Chania would be the better choice.
Posted by
Brighton, UK
1388 posts
I've stayed in both at various times. Chania has the bigger old quarter and, in my opinion, the prettier seafront. Rethymnon though is a university town and has the livelier music scene. Several places when I was here had low key live music: often just a couple of people with guitars.
As you say, a matter of personal preference. I'm sure you'll enjoy whichever you choose.
Alan
Posted by
Crete
91 posts
I'd agree with the 2 postings above - Chania is the most beautiful old city, its Venetian harbour cannot be beaten, nor can all the tiny alleyways behind it. Rethymno is also lovely & because the city centre is much more compact, it's easier to have beach & old town at once.
I do believe the landscape around the Chania region to be the most picturesque in Crete, there are more pretty places more easily accessible than Rethymno. Places like Aptera, like the foothills of the White Mountains & the ancient tiny villages of Apokoronas, like the monasteries of Agia Triada & the beach at Stavros where Zorba's hill is (from the film). From Rethymno you can go on a nice, easy trip to Arkadi monastery & a day through the Amari valley if you like to drive.
BUT I do question your choice of Hersonissos, can you tell us why you have chosen there? It's rather a built-up, not too pretty resort, which is fine for beach lovers but doesn't seem to fit well with your other selections. I'm wondering whether you might prefer Elounda near Agios Nikolaos for instance. It's a prettier, smaller, relaxed little place to wander.
Posted by
Sidney, BC, Canada
887 posts
Definitely Chania. As others have said, lovely waterfront, interesting old town, great market, some interesting museums, check out the Nautical Museum's display on the Battle for Crete in WWII and the story of the Cretan Resistance. As a follow-up I would suggest visits to the Commonwealth War Cemetery in Souda and to the German War Cemetery at Maleme.
Aptera is an amazing site with Mycenaean walls, Roman, Byzantine, and Ottoman buildings to WWII gun emplacements it's a place that gives you Cretan history in a nutshell, along with stunning views. It's also very quiet and peaceful.
Rethymno's old area around the harbour is attractive but much of the town was destroyed during the war and is less so. The Venetian Fortezza just outside the old town is well worth a visit.
A great day trip from either city is the Minoan Palace of Phaestos....still in its ruined state I find it more interesting than Knossos. A good break in the journey is the site of the Roman city of Gortys.
Another thing near Chania - Vouves claims to have the world's oldest olive tree, it still produces olives. The claim to be the oldest tree is disputed, but it's certainly one of the oldest, about 3,000 years old. Also has a small museum about traditional olive growing.
In eastern Crete there are some more interesting and rarely visited Minoan sites, Gournia is a particular favourite of mine. Spinalonga near Elouda, a Venetian fortress on an Island. Became the last leper colony in Europe, closing in the 1950's. There is a rather romanticisized novel about it called The Island.
Enjoy Crete - one of my favourite places to stay.
Posted by
OP
Tel Aviv
15 posts
As I said, where to stay is really about personal opinions and I've gotten a lot of interesting perspectives. As far as Eastern Crete, Elounda makes a longer drive to the airport which I'd prefer to avoid. For some people driving an extra 30-40 minutes won't make a difference, but it does for us.