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Can't decide on an itinerary for Greece

First off, thank you to alI the regular Greece forum posters here - I have learned so much from reading your posts! Despite that, and despite being a fairly experienced independent traveler, I have been having such a difficult time deciding on an itinerary for my first trip to Greece. I think it's possibly because there are so many things I want to see, so deciding what to cut is tough. Also, I'm going in August (I know, bad idea), and while I usually avoid high season, I saw a great airfare deal recently and decided to go for it, but that means a lot of places are already booked.

A little about me - 35, female, traveling solo. I like wandering around charming towns, being near the water, and seeing things of historical interest. I foresee this trip as being a mix of those things plus swimming, seeing ancient ruins, and doing a lot of reading on my Kindle while being near water. Since I'm by myself, I doubt I'll be doing much on the nightlife front. Also, while I enjoy swimming, I'm definitely the type who likes to go to the beach for a couple of hours during the day, then I'm bored and ready to move on to something else.

My main dilemmas currently are:

  • Trying to figure out a way to fit in Meteora between the islands and Athens without either spending a one-off night in Athens (so I can catch the train the next morning) or renting a car, which I am open to doing, but would prefer not. I know the best idea would probably be to cut Meteora, since it’s out of the way, but it’s a must-see for me.
  • Naxos or Paros? Both Naxos Chora and Naousa look very charming and lively, both seem to have great beaches as well as boat tours to swim in crystal clear waters, which appeals to me, and both seem to have interesting villages to explore.
  • Should I go to Nafplio? On one hand, if I go there, I'll likely be shortchanging other locations (like Naxos or Paros, or Athens). On the other hand, everything I have read about it and all the pictures I've seen make it look exactly like a place I would adore. Plus I like that there are some great day trips nearby.
  • Is 3 nights in Santorini too much for me? It's definitely the most expensive place I'm visiting, because I want a caldera-view hotel. I also know that in August, it's going to be very busy and crowded, so part of me is tempted to only go for two nights or even as a day trip. That said, another part of me, the part that loves sweeping views of the water and really loves some places that others shun as too touristy (Venice is one of my favorite cities), wants to give it a chance, just based on pictures alone.

Two itinerary ideas at the moment:

1 - No Nafplio

August 15 - arrive Athens from US at noon, flight to Santorini. 3 nights at Santorini View Caldera Studios in Firostefani.
August 18 - early ferry to Naxos or Paros for 4 nights.
August 22 - Ferry to Athens in the evening; stay somewhere near the train station.
August 23 - Train to Kalambaka, arriving around 1 PM. Sunset tour of Meteora. Spend night at Monastiri Guesthouse in Kalambaka.
August 24 - Day tour of Meteora, take train back to Athens at 5 PM. Check into Sweet Home Hotel for 4 nights.
August 28 - Fly home.

2 - Includes Nafplio

August 15 - arrive Athens from US at noon, flight to Santorini. 3 nights at Santorini View Caldera Studios in Firostefani.
August 18 - early ferry to Naxos or Paros for 3 nights; looks like I could get to either place before noon.
August 21 - early flight to Athens; drive to Nafplio for 3 nights.
August 24 - drive to Meteora in time for sunset; spend the night.
August 25 - day tour of Meteora, drive back to Athens for 3 nights (really only two full days, though).
August 28 - Fly home.

Thoughts? Does one itinerary look better than the other? Would it make more sense for me to include Nafplio, based on my interests, or exclude it and have more time in Athens and Paros or Naxos? Thank you!

Posted by
1388 posts

Given your interests I’d definitely try and include Nafplio. With a car there you can easily get to Mycenae, Epidavrus and Tiryns.

You don’t say when in August you are going but the Epidavrus Festival,is on until mid month. Even if you aren’t massively interested in ancient drama seeing a play in an original theatre is great.

Santorini is spectacular, and I’d never advise anyone who hasn’t seen it not to go, but it’s about the only place in Greece I wouldn’t want to go back to myself. Three nights there is more than you need to get the point.

Meteora is somewhere that really benefits from having a car. The monasteries are quite widely spread and you can take in more at your own pace.

So it’s option B for me every time, but with less Santorini. I suspect though you’ll get a lot of different opinions (and where would be the fun if you didn’t!)

Have a great trip.

Alan

Posted by
1157 posts

August will be the height of tourist season so most islands will be crowded and Santorini probably the worse.

Santorini would not be my first choice for a Greek Island, however, everyone has their own opinion about it.

Naxos is the largest of the Cyclades Islands and is one of the best and has something for everyone. I haven't been to Paros so can't comment on it but it appears to be a very nice island to go to. You could combine Naxos and Paros or even visit one of the Small Cyclades Islands from Naxos instead.

Meteora will eat up a lot of time getting there and returning. I haven't been there but it does appear to be a one-of-a-kind place.

Nafplio is one of Greece's prettiest towns and is a perfect base to explore the nearby world-class archeological sites.

I would drop Meteora and spend more time in Nafplio. The nearby archeological sites will make up for not seeing Meteora and you can even do a day cruise to the islands of Hydra/Spetses.

Posted by
396 posts

I love being on and around water too : ) We were in Greece a few weeks ago and took a guided sea kayak trip with this company that operates in the Nafplio area: https://www.panexpeditions.com/ They were very professional, friendly and upbeat, and the equipment was in very good shape. It was a great day on the water, which was crystal clear. We took the six hour Sunken City tour, which was about 15-20 minute drive farther from Napflio than Epidaurus, so provided a nice day trip when paired together. There were two opportunities to snorkle on the trip, one being over the sunken city. I think they also have a shorter paddle around Napflio harbor. Just an idea in terms of adding variety to your itinerary. They have both single and double kayaks so you don't necessarily have to be paired with someone you don't know.

Posted by
2498 posts

We did a similar trip in late May early June this year. We had one more day than you and did 3 nights Santorini, 4 nights Naxos, 4 nights Nafplio, 3 nights Athens.

Regardless of what route you choose, I would try to fly to and from Athens and the islands. It saves precious time. We flew to Santorini and then back to Athens from Naxos.

Santorini was crowded but not oppressively so in late May. Three nights gives you two full days plus an evening. We hiked from Oia to Fira one day, and swam in Amoudi Bay. The second day we rented a car and explored the island. If you aren't interested in exploring the island, then I think you could stay two nights to see the caldera view.

Or consider skipping Santorini altogoether as I can't imagine the crowds in August.

We loved Naxos and would have easily spent another day there. I have never been to Paros so can't compare the two.

My older son skipped most of Athens (only saw Acropolis and agora on day we arrived) in favor of an overnight trip to Meteora and was very happy with his choice. He thought he would be back to Athens.

I don't think you can do five places well in the time you have. It is a half day at least every time you move location. As I said, my son sacrificed Athens for Meteora.

Also consider the heat. We hit 97 degree temperatures in Nafplio the first week of June which meant that we were not touring in the afternoon. We went to the beach. That means you can't see as much in the same amount of time as another time of year, although seeing Epidaurus for an evening performance would help. We spent a morning there (performances only June and August) and then went to the beach.

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I have a trip report under the trip report tab (family group of 7) if you are interested.

Beth

Posted by
4320 posts

I like #2. we loved both Naufplio and Santorini. If you don't want to drive, we booked an overnight tour to Naufplio through Fantasy Travel. The tour also went to Mycenae and Epidaurus.

Posted by
17 posts

Wow, thank you for all the thoughtful responses! I really appreciate it.

Kaeleku, minority opinion or not, I appreciate it! It's so hard for me to say when I've never been, of course, but there is a lot on the mainland that I'd love to see, even beyond what I mentioned here (Athens, Meteora, Nafplio and surrounding area). I think in my head, I felt like since it's hot in August, it would be good to be out on the islands instead of in a city on the mainland, but the crowds may outweigh that.

Thanks Alan! I arrive on August 15th. I just did a little searching and it looks like Oedipus at Colonus is on Friday the 17th and Saturday the 18th in Epidaurus. I would love to see a play in an original theater, that would be amazing. It would require me going to Nafplio first right after I land in Athens, but that might not be a bad idea. Sounds like two nights in Santorini at this time of year might suffice.

tommyk5, it sounds like you really like Naxos and Nafplio both. You're right that I could spend time at both (and combine Naxos with Paros, too) if I cut out Santorini and Meteora. I wasn't aware that I could do a day trip to Hydra/Spetses from Nafplio, so thanks for that - I've really only seen it mentioned as a day trip from Athens so good to know it can be done from Nafplio as well.

Lia, I love the look of that kayaking excursion, thank you! That looks like something I'd really enjoy, and you're right, that would add some variety to my itinerary. Thanks for mentioning that they have one person kayaks as well - sometimes I'm in the mood to share with a stranger, sometimes I'm not. :)

goodorf, it looks like your family had a great vacation! Very similar amount of time, as you mentioned, to the time I have available, so it's good to see what's possible. It's unfortunate your son had an accident - I have seen people recommend renting an ATV or scooter to see the islands and while it would be nice to have the freedom, I'm too much of a worrywart to do it, I think. Also, you mentioning you and your husband working out on the Stairmaster in preparation for the trip made me smile - I should probably start doing that! I'm not in bad shape at all but must say I rarely have to climb many stairs, and definitely not in excessive heat.

Thanks cala! That's good to know that there's an overnight option from Athens if I decide I don't want to drive and just want a short visit.

I definitely am committed to going to Nafplio now...just need to decide when, and what I'm going to cut in order to go. I'm leaning towards going there right away, as I'd love to see a play at the Epidaurus Theater as part of the Epidaurus Festival that Alan mentioned.

Posted by
3320 posts

BT83, I think that Nafplio would be a good start for you .... and if you order play tickets online you may very well see Oedipus in the theatre of Epidaurus, thrill thrill. Just question of getting to Nafplio -- and we could advise u better if you shared just a bit more... such as where in US you're arriving from.

Example -- if you land at noon from US East Coast nonstop, you will have had a 10-12 hr flight (plus 7 hr clocktime change), so with a BIG cup of STRONG espresso, you'll be good to pick up a rental car and drive (on a modern divided highway, no stops) to Nafplio. If you have done a grueling 20+ hour journey from SF or LA, you'll be draggin and groggy. In the latter case, it might be well to take a taxi to the Intercity KTEL Bus Terminal on Kifissou Street, and get on the 1:30 bus (hourly on half-hour, takes 2.5 hours). You could snooze the first hour (comfy upholstered reserved seats, good A/C), then gaze at scenery til you hit Nafplio.

Your first day you could recover, explore Nafplio, have a swim, here's the great NONcommercial website - http://www.visitnafplio.com - that tells ALL about the area. For the day of the play, you could rent a car locally in Nafplio (NOTE: your hotel can arrange this IF you drive stick; if you need automatic, you'll need to book ahead online. Also remember you need to get a Intl. Driving Permit; go to AAA takes 20 minutes and $25; and also bring your OWN license along). After your Nafplio time, you drive back to Airport.... or if u bussed, take bus back to Edge of Athens (Eleonas; only stop before terminal, half the passengers get off here) & catch the Blue Line express Metro to the Airport. That's if you fly to an island for a few days before returning to mainland for Athens...

I can't advise Meteora unless you do that 1-day train excursion; on a trip of less than 2 weeks I can't vote for a 2-3 day visit so far out of the way, I usually say get a really good video of it, and instead experience a Greek isle or 2.

Posted by
1388 posts

Just a quick addition to Janet’s excellent advice. When I went to a play at the Epidavrus Festival there was a special bus from Nafplio and backed timed for the performance. This was several years ago but if it’s still running it might be worth considering.

Alan

Posted by
396 posts

In Athens we really loved the Dora Stratou Dance Theater. http://www.grdance.org/en/ It was a great way to top off an evening. The music, costumes and dance are authentic to different areas of Greece and are absolutely beautiful. I was glad to see this part of Greek culture. My husband, who is not so into 'dance', enjoyed it very much as well. It's in a smallish venue; in June we sat in the front row, although perhaps it's more crowded later in the summer. The performance started at 9:30 PM (times and days vary) and was about 1 1/2 hours. Cabs are waiting outside the venue when the performance ends so it's easy to get back to the hotel or wherever you're going next. We took a cab going to the theater as well since it was a bit of a walk from the hotel and apparently cutting through the park where it's located is not a great plan late in the day or at night The theater area itself seemed quite safe. Cabs are inexpensive in Athens.

Posted by
17 posts

Thanks janet - I'll be arriving from the East Coast. Leaving Raleigh, NC on a late afternoon flight, a couple hours layover at JFK, then nonstop from there to Athens. So fortunately, that flight is just under 10 hours. From what I've read, it sounds like the drive from the airport is pretty straightforward - mostly I worry about when I get there, as I won't have anyone to help me navigate to find parking, etc. and I know driving in any city, but especially historical ones, can be kind of stressful. Good to know there's a bus option as well, and then I could rent a car there for exploring (which I would do ahead of time - my dad tried to teach me how to drive stick, but it never quite, well, stuck). Thank you for that website about Nafplio - I think you had linked to it before on one of your very helpful posts I had read when I did a forum search, and that site is what made me think it would be a good place for me to go! It lays out so many interesting things to do nearby, plus before I visited that website, I didn't realize how many beaches were nearby. Not that I ever lay at the beach all day, but for August, I like the idea that there's a place to cool off not too far away.

I do hate the thought of eliminating Meteora, since I want to see it so much, but I do have to agree that it's such a detour from the rest of my trip that it probably makes the most sense to not go there. It would give me two extra days, essentially, to add to either the islands or to Athens (or one to each), which would help make my trip less rushed feeling.

Thank you Alan - that sounds like a great option for me, as I don't know how comfortable I'd feel driving in the dark. It might be fine, but would probably be a little more relaxing to take the bus.

Lia, thanks for the link - that looks like something I'd enjoy as well, and would give me something to do in the evening, which I sometimes struggle with when traveling alone. I'm never super comfortable going out to a bar by myself, but I absolutely will go out for performances in the evening, so that looks like a good choice.

Posted by
2498 posts

My two cents would be to take the bus to nafplio, since you are traveling solo and are talking of going there after an overseas flight. I drove there and found it a bit challenging as we did not have a map (rental place did not provide one) so were essentially driving blind. If you do drive make sure you study a map carefully and download maps off line. The signs are not marked for nafplio until you are fairly close so you have to know what direction to go.

You can read my adventures on trip reports if you are interested.

I had not just arrived in Greece and had already driven in the islands. The faster speeds mean you have no time to think so I actually preferred the more rural driving. You could always pull off and look at a map or even find someone to ask.

I would rent a car in nafplio for a day if you want to explore surrounding area but would take bus to evening performance at Epidaurus . But then I do not like driving places I don’t know at night.

Beth