In a few weeks(!), we're spending the night in Kamilari (Messara plain) after seeing Phaestos, Gortyna, etc. The next day we want to drive north through the Amari valley, and visit the Eleftherna museum, and Moni Arkadiou. I thought Thronos also looked interesting, with it's Agia Panagia church frescoes. I've read that the Amari valley is quite beautiful, and it seems like a different experience than the lowland areas, but most of the things I'm interested in are in the north part of the valley. I know this is completely subjective, but would you drive up to Spilli and access the Amari valley from there, or do you think the better choice is to enter the valley from it's southern end? Viamichelin suggests that the Spilli route is actually a slightly longer drive. BTW we are ending the day at Argyroupoli, possibly stopping by the Minoan cemetery at Armeni and possibly stopping in Roustika to see the frescoed churches there. In my view the must-sees for the day are Eleftherna museum, Moni Arkadiou and Argyroupoli and interesting frescoes. Will we get a feel for the Amari valley simply by driving the northern part?
Posted by
Crete
91 posts
I have just come home to Chania from a few days in the Amari valley & Eleftherna!
I think the Eastern side of the valley is probably the most picturesque, ie through Fourfouras to Thronos, perhaps with a little detour up to the dramatic hillside location of Vizagi, or down to the valley floor to see the ancient olive groves & a couple more Byzantine churches. I particularly liked the position of Agios Paraskevi.
In Thronos, Agia Panayia has the most complete frescoes I have seen (key from the old lady with a little café next door), she will expect you to go for coffee in thanks! It's that sort of stop which is charming, & in my opinion the best way to experience Crete, however it will eat your time up. Next door to the church is the Aravanes hotel, with fantastic food & the best view of the valley.
You have given yourself a lot in a day, I spent 2 1/2 days doing this route this week.
The Eleftherna museum really is superb, a very modern explanation & display of the area, it closes at 18:00. I can't see you will have time for Spili, the Minoan tombs at Armenoi (also worth a stop) or Roustika.
I assume you have time the following day to explore Argyroupolis? There is the old village to see (get a map from the avocado products shop), as well as the lower village with springs & tavernas for lunch. You may like to visit the church of the 5 virgins, just outside the village, for a short walk with an amazing tree & more minoan tombs & a cave church. & I recommend the carob product shop, just before the start of the village, which is making delicious all natural foodstuff from the ancient staple, carob.
Enjoy this piece of nature, almost unchanged for centuries, & do make sure to find time to stop & listen to the birdsong & not much else. heaven.
Posted by
OP
Columbus, USA
396 posts
Thank you very much for the great reply full of information. I find the days outside of the cities are harder to plan on any trip because the pace, timing and driving are more difficult to estimate. We do tend to linger at sights, so if we don't get to everything in a single day that's OK. I like to have a few extra things planned in case we get through the major activities for the day sooner than expected. We have eight full days on Crete and are only seeing sights west of Heraklion (exception for Knossos) and still there is so much to see and do. After our Amari day we slow down for several days, and the focus is more on nature, and can spend additional time at Argyroupouli. I'm OK with missing Spili. Spili sounds pleasant and picturesque but with eight days we have to prioritize.