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Why does Rick dislike Heidelberg so much yet loves Rothenburg?

In Rick Steves Guidebook to Germany, he lists the city of Heidelberg as a lowlight.

Rick writes, "this famous old university town (Heidelberg) attracts hordes of Americans. Any surviving charm is stained almost beyond recognition by commercialism. It doesn't make it into Germany's top three weeks."

But, at the same time, Rick still loves Rothenburg even though it attracts hordes of tourists too and is also very commercialized even though he admits that it suffers from 'crowds, overpriced souvenirs."

If anything, Rothenburg's economy is even more centered around tourism than Heidelberg.

I really don't understand the difference.

Has Rick ever gone into more detail about why he dislikes Heidelberg so much?

Posted by
6347 posts

I’m sure that Rick Steves’ Heidelberg review is based on his own experiences and personal preferences. And I would assume that his preference for Rothenburg is based on the town’s appeal. It is very charming and most people are willing to face the crowds in order to see it.

I like Rick Steves and I like his books and I like this forum, but I don’t follow all of his advice and I don’t always agree with him. That’s what makes travel so interesting. We can go someplace and make our own choices.

Posted by
6905 posts

Rick Steves' opinion might date back from the time when there was an American base in town. It closed 10 years ago.

Personally, I really like Heidelberg, a bustling university town.

Posted by
8456 posts

Well he has to make some value judgments. I've been to both three times. I like Heidelberg, but it doesn't have Rothenburg's higher concentration of cuteness in a small space.

Posted by
776 posts

I find Rick has many inexplicable such opinions throughout his guide books. Some are explicitly stated, other wonderful sites are ignored entirely.

The guides have to be read with discretion - they are literally "Rick Steve's Europe"; often not my Europe.

To me, RS guides read more like travel blogs than standard guide books which tend to refrain from personal opinion. His detailed instructions on access and suggested itineraries can be useful (when accurate), but I never find his books to be complete enough to plan a trip without consulting other sources.

Posted by
3851 posts

I kinda agree with Rick on these two cities. Heidelberg is nice but Rothenburg is charming. Besides the altarpiece he mentions, the Crime & Punishment museum is a winner. Not sensationalized like other cities. The narrow climb up the tower on the square for nice views is worthwhile, as is just walking around. Also, if you stay within the town, the B&B’s are friendly, great food, and just what you imagined.

But, of course, the highlight of the city is the Nightwatchman evening tour. Very few city walking tours anywhere can compare to this gem, IMO.

Look at their websites and you can make your own decision.

Posted by
19095 posts

In 1987, I spent one night in Heidelberg on a business trip - arrived after dinner, stayed at what is now the Marriot, left by car the next morning. I came back a year later to see the castle, then went by train to Ansbach, where we spent two nights and made a day trip to Rothenburg odT.

I've been back to Rothenburg two more times (three if you count just passing through - had lunch at the train station, never went inside the walls that day). I've never been back to Heidelberg. Nuff said?

I've just barely looked in the door of the Christmas Shoppe. I don't even know where the Crime & Punishment Museum is. But I've toured St. Jakob's church, had lunch on Herrngasse, walked most of the wall on the Wehrgang,

Posted by
4331 posts

I agree with Barbara. Disclaimer: I have not been to Heidelberg.

Posted by
6649 posts

"But, of course, the highlight of the city is the Nightwatchman evening tour. Very few city walking tours anywhere can compare to this gem, IMO."

From the comments I've read over the years, I think your point of view is shared by many Rick-fans. I'm certain this tour gets more praise here than any other single walking tour (with the possible exception of the Frankfurt tours offered by one of our fellow forum members.)

IMO the nightwatchman thing and traditional walking tours are not comparable. Most walking tours are content-heavy experiences that teach you some history, sometimes in an entertaining way. Rothenburg's nightwatchman handles sees his job very differently. He's an entertainer first, peppering his flair for drama with a few educational tidbits here and there. But maybe that's what our group is looking for.

Or maybe we like him just because we see him as unique and quirky... He is the only nightwatchman mentioned in Rick's materials... but in truth he is not alone; there are others like him in other towns that are tourist-friendly as well...

Cochem: https://www.wochenspiegellive.de/fileadmin/user_upload/import/artikel/84/7384/Nachtwaechter.jpg

Gengenbach: https://www.stuttgarter-nachrichten.de/media.media.ba02c81b-6329-423d-8f72-1cd0dbf06b58.original1024.jpg

Nuremberg: https://nachtwaechterin.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/03/Nuernberger_Nachtwaechterin-Foto-Freimark_2009-3-300x425.jpg

Berchtesgaden: https://blog.berchtesgadener-land.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/Nachtw%C3%A4chterin-Schloss-Berchtesgaden.jpg

Bremen: https://www.stattreisen-bremen.de/fileadmin/_processed_/csm_nachtwaechterrundgang_2cb463c3d1.jpg

Posted by
193 posts

Rick’s guide books are his opinions for what to see and do and include his preferences. He also knows his audience. Some people plan their trip to Madrid or Munich to see Real Madrid or Bayern Munich play and he scarcely mentions them in his books, even though they are world famous and a key part of their respective cultures.

I like his stuff - books and show - but they’re a starting place, not a definitive source. They have some clever tips and good ideas but some of it is outdated and it’s certainly not comprehensive, nor does it claim to be. It’s most useful as an introduction for a first visit as opposed to a returning visit.

Posted by
20139 posts

When Rick was a young man, he was mistaken for a new student and kidnapped and given a cruel dueling scar with a rusty sword. It took years of plastic surgery to regain his handsome visage. He has held a grudge against Heidelberg ever since.

Wait a minute, April Fools was last Monday.

Posted by
68 posts

He's an odd duck. He recommends not going into the Leaning Tower of Pisa as well, which for us was amazing. His guidebooks are very good but no two travelers share the same goals or desires. You do you.

Posted by
1296 posts

I lived in Heidelberg 1998-2000 while in the Army and loved it. Hated to leave when my tour was up. We went back so many times since we over did it and let it rest for a while. The Army left Heidelberg in 2013. Heidelberg is reality. A living breathing city with a fine history. Altstadt Rothenburg for me around the history is a fairytale (see Disney). A day trip at most. Each to their own including Rick. I'm sure he has his reasons/marketing. Both the Tauber and Necker River Valleys are worth a visit.

Posted by
987 posts

I’m going back to Heidelberg for the 3rd time this year. I also liked Rothenburg. My reason for Heidelberg this year is because it’s a good central place for several places I want to day trip to, and is a pleasant place to spend evenings after day trips. I don’t think it’s about one place being better or worse. Everyone (even Rick) has different preferences fortunately or we would all be in the same place!

Posted by
836 posts

Why does Rick dislike Heidelberg so much yet loves Rothenburg?

As Mr Steves is a successful businessperson, it probably means catering to his customer's perceived desires rather than his own preferences. In most cases that means emphasizing the cute Disney-like towns that most remember from their childhood TV watching years.

Posted by
985 posts

Unbelievably, I am going to Rothenburg ob der Tauber for irrational reasons because my mother's maiden last-name is Rothenberg. The fact that the town is prominently described in Rick Steves' guide might be just a major coincidence. Yeah the last name is spelled with -berg with an e instead of -burg with a u. I don't know why the spellings are different yet. I probably have no way to know whether any of my distant ancestors lived in the town. The last name might not be from the town - Roth just means the color red, burg might just mean hill, mountain, possibly castle or fortress. In Yiddish, barg = hill or mountain, royt = the color red, shlos = castle, festung = fortress.

Posted by
293 posts

Yeah the last name is spelled with -berg with an e instead of -burg
with a u. I don't know why the spellings are different yet.

A reply to Mike: In German, the word "Rothenburg" and the one "Rothenberg" are very different words for us. The place names ending in -berg have to do with mountains. The ones ending in -burg with castles. (These words also sound very different to a German ear, so they really are distinct).

Actually, they are also different places as well: Rothenberg exists--there are many parts of towns/old villages named Rothenberg, here is a list from wikipedia.

Assuming your mother's name is actually related to German place names and the spelling did not get corrupted along the way (a big assumption, however), you would be visiting the wrong site.

Posted by
1556 posts

"I'm sure he has his reasons/marketing." – or maybe he just prefers to visit one place over the other. I certainly do.

I've been to a few places which have been described as Disney-like, though they are nothing at all like each other. Some people who visit Venice on a regular basis say Rothenburg is too touristy (ha). Disney World is Disney-like, and I liked it.

Besides, no reasonable comparison can be made between Heidelberg and Rothenburg. Like comparing Fussen to Regensburg.

Posted by
1482 posts

Heidelberg and Rothenburg ob der Tauber are both real places with genuine histories. Check out Wikipedia.

Being stationed in Germany for 6 years, Heidelberg was always our headquarters and we visited it often. We enjoyed it.

We like Rothenburg better, as much for the surrounding area as for the town within the walls. Rothenburg failed for a while after the 30 Years War and did not modernize. That probably explains its current "look".

Does Rick dismiss Heidelberg in his most recent books?

Posted by
14521 posts

I saw Rothenburg only once. That was in 1973. Why? Because everyone was doing that , so perceived then. Besides, then it was free for me.

On the other hand, Heidelberg was on my agenda , like Hamburg, Munich, and Berlin, during my first trip in 1971, well worth it. In 1997 I went back for a second visit to Heidelberg, this a day trip. I would heartily suggest to the first time visitor to Germany to spend a couple of days in Heidelberg, several reasons for that.

No such recommendation from me on Rothenburg