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Two Days in the Rhine Valley

I'd like some comments on a part of our trip to Germany in the fall.
Prior to planning this, I have spent some time on both the Fodor & RS forums plus reading a few guide books for input.

Two "senior", but relatively active couples will arrive via an overnight flight from the States in Frankfort, rent a car & be moving by late morning on day 1. We will drive to Oberwesel or St Goar (recommendations on preference?) to stretch our legs for a few hours before jet lag kicks in & then do the short drive to Bacharach for the night.
On day 2 we plan to drive down to Bingen, hop on a river boat & cruise up to Braubach (or should we get off the cruise in St. Goarshausen & take the train to Brubach?) in time to make the 1PM English tour of the Marksburg castle. Afterwards, after some time in Braubach, we would take the train down the east bank of the Rhine to Bingen (there is a ferry to get across the river.....right?) & return to Bacharach for the night.
RS's book does not list a hotel in Braubach with elevators......we are active "seniors", but not that active. Any recommendations?
On day 3, we would begin our drive to the Black Forest & afterwards to Bavaria.......but that is another plan for another day.....we are not going until October.

Any input would be greatly appreciated.

Posted by
19092 posts

First, I would not recommend anyone renting a car and driving after an overnight flight. There are very good train connections from Frankfurt airport to Oberwesel, St. Goar, and Bacharach. Most travel along the Rhein is better by train than by car.

Normally, I would not recommend the long trip from Bingen to Braubach, but there is a boat that arrives in Braubach at 12:20, in time for the 1 PM tour (although you would have to walk fast). It is the one that leaves Bingen at 9:30.

You need to understand that the Rhein runs down (with the current) from Bingen to Koblenz. It's important since trips up the river, against the current take a long time. Here is where to find the schedule of the K-D boats.

There are ferries across the river at Boppard and at St. Goarshausen. The one at Boppard is difficult to get to; use the Loreley Fähre, at St. Goarshausen.

"RS's book does not list a hotel in Braubach with elevators". Are you staying in Braubach, or Bacharach, as you originally indicated (doesn't matter, because there are probably not elevators in either town). Either way, I don't think there are many places in either town more than three stories high.

Posted by
6637 posts

After Marksburg and after some time in Braubach, you say you "would take the train down the east bank of the Rhine to Bingen (there is a ferry to get across the river.....right?) & return to Bacharach for the night."

I don't quite see what your objective is here. You've already seen this part of the river, and Bingen doesn't offer all that much to make such a trip. If you take the train south from Braubach, you will end up NOT in Bingen but in Rüdesheim (just opposite Bingen,) a very popular destination. R'heim is a very cute place - but it is also on every tour bus itinerary and can get pretty busy there. After that, yes, there are ferries from Rüdesheim to Bingen.

But instead of that trip you might want to visit Boppard back on the west bank - quite a nice town, with lots of dining choices and a nice riverfront. There's a 3:05 pm KD boat from Braubach to Boppard you could take - buy the round-trip ticket when you board in Bingen that morning to get on this boat and you'll step off in Boppard at 4 pm.

Boppard waterfront
Boppard's river walk
Boppard's market square
Chairlift ride in Boppard
Severus Stube
Popular Boppard eatery

After Boppard it's a direct 20-minute train ride back to Bacharach.

St. Goar or Oberwesel? Rheinfels Castle ruins are the main pull in St. Goar. If you want to stretch your legs, go to Oberwesel - Oberwesel has far more impressive buildings and a fairly easy walk around the old town wall.

I completely agree with skipping the car on Day 1. As you can see, the car isn't going to get much use on the Rhine. You could pick one up if you need one for later in Koblenz. There are DIRECT trains between the FRA terminal and Bacharach if you are concerned about changing trains with luggage (I'd recommend you observe Rick's packing tips anyway - do that and train travel should be quite doable.)

Posted by
42 posts

A couple of thoughts from our Rhine trip:

Marksburg is a great tour. The town of Braubach is very small, so you really won't spend much time at all there after your tour.
You could catch the car ferry just south of Braubach and go across to Boppard. It is a very cute town with shops and a square, and we had a terrific meal at Severus Stube.

If you really want to do something memorable, drive south to Oberwesel and stay overnight in a castle, at Burghotel Auf Schoenburg.
The rooms come with dinner and breakfast, and the views down into the valley are breathtaking!

Kevin