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Suggestions for Bavaria/Alsace/Switzerland

Hello travelers,
My wife and I will be spending slightly over 4 weeks in Europe from mid-September to mid-October, flying into Frankfurt and flying out of Zürich. The first 5 nights are in Berlin. We'll be there mainly for our niece, who is running the marathon, but this will also be our first time in Berlin. We're looking forward to Berlin, but we were looking for a little help with the rest of this trip.

A couple of things to know:

We took a trip to Germany and Austria a few years ago, which included Munich, Füssen, Salzburg, Hallstatt, and Vienna. We loved it, but we intend to visit different places on this trip.

Lately, we prefer to settle down in one location for a while (4 or 5 nights or more), mostly to soak up the culture, even if that means we'll miss seeing every village or must-see attraction in the vicinity. After Berlin, we plan to spend some time in Bavaria. We are then thinking about heading to the French region of Alsace, before moving on to Switzerland.

So here’s a preliminary itinerary:

First 8 nights after Berlin:
Bavaria -
Most likely candidates:
Würzburg, Bamberg, Nürnberg, Rothenburg.

If we insisted on spending 4 nights each in only two of these towns, what would be the best scenario? We’d appreciate any suggestions for staying in a combination of these towns (or any other towns in this area), where 4 nights isn’t too much overkill.

Initial thoughts:
Bamberg looks like a place we could easily spend 4 nights in – especially if we were walking distance from the famous brewpubs. :)

We do not want to miss Rothenburg completely, but Rothenburg does seem like it could be a day trip from somewhere like Bamberg, unless someone feels 4 nights there is doable as well.

We are still unsure about whether we will have a car, but it is certainly a possibility. We are savvy enough with train travel for a couple of day trips, so only if there were some not-to-be-missed scenic drives would we consider having the car.

Next 8 nights of the trip:
Alsace France -
Most likely candidates:
Colmar, Strasbourg

So, the same question about spending this many days in only one or more of these towns. How would you split this up: 4 nights in each place, or 8 in one place with a trip or two to the other? Or any other towns nearby that make more sense for an extended stay?
How about renting a car while we are in Alsace? Aren't there some nice drives in the area (wine route)?

Last 7 nights of the trip:
Most likely candidates:
Lucerne, Zürich

We intend to spend several days at Lake Lucerne, which would include a day for Mount Pilatus. We’re not certain if we want to visit Zurich on this trip. We do have to fly home from there, but I do see that I can get from Lucerne to Zurich airport in an hour, so we don’t necessarily need to stay in Zurich at all.

Are there any suggestions for where we can spend the last 7 nights in combination with Lucerne?

It could include more of Germany/France, or somewhere else in nearby Switzerland. Or is staying in Zurich for like 3 nights a good idea? It also seems like train/bus travel might be best for this area of Switzerland, but if there are good reasons to have a car, please let us know what those are.

Anyway, we are completely open to any suggestions for adjusting this itinerary - or blowing it up completely if that’s what’s needed!

Thanks for any help.

Posted by
7499 posts

Some quick comments, I wouldn't stay in Zurich, I'd stay in Luzern/Lucerne and perhaps Murren, Bern or Basel. Zurich is a huge city, not what people go to Switzerland for. Strasbourg is lovely, but I don't really think of Strasbourg when I think of Alsace. Colmar I liked quite a bit, but when people think of Alsace they think of the little half timbered wine villages--Eguisheim, Riquewihr, Kaiserburg, Ribeauvillé. Maybe this article helps https://fullsuitcase.com/alsace-wine-route-best-towns/

Posted by
6661 posts

Regarding Switzerland, spend as much time as possible in the Berner Oberland (Murren/Wengen). No one is ever ready to leave the Alps. Every day is different, and magnificent- even rainy days. However, you are late to be booking for fall, so jump on accommodations asap. I'd stay at least five nights, maybe more. Check when the lifts start closing down, to figure out the better time period, because it's October.

I would also skip Zurich, and spend three nights in charming Lucerne.

Looks like you have a great trip in the works. Have a wonderful trip and safe travels!

Posted by
22633 posts

You might consider 6 nights in Nuremberg. It is a direct train from Berlin. With the VGN TagesTicket Plus you can get to Bamberg and Rothenburg easily and cheaply. Bamberg is only 45 minutes away. You can get to Strasbourg with a single connection.

You might consider 4 nights in Strasbourg, then 4 in Colmar. Yes, you could rent a car in Colmar for a couple days of drives. Haut Koenigsbourg is an interesting restored castle, easier to get to with a car in late September/early October.

If you want 7 nights in Switzerland in a single place, choose Luzern. Lots to see and do from there.

Posted by
1535 posts

A quick take...

We spent a week in Leinsweiler in the Pfalz, Germany this year in the middle of the vineyards. Something to think of for a non touristic break north of Strasbourg.

From Bamberg/Nürnberg branch out into the Fränkische Schweiz. Good Beer too.

Love the Franken wine region along the Main River.

All these really need a car.

Mid October in the Alps. Be ready for weather. Fog and rain. Snow in higher elevations.

Tell's Chapel. I can still hear the bells above. Always wanted to go back for a stay in the area.

Posted by
7693 posts

If we insisted on spending 4 nights each in only two of these towns, what would be the best scenario?

I'll ride the Sam train here... Nuremberg is very walkable for a city of its size and has a diverse selection of things to see/do. And it's an ideal base town for outings. 45 minutes by direct train to Bamberg. Regensburg is not on your list but worth considering... it's Germany's best-preserved medieval town and just 60 minutes away. I could see 5-6 nights here:

https://www.regensburg.de/welterbe/en

https://tourismus.regensburg.de/en

https://tallgirlbigworld.com/things-to-do-regensburg-germany/

Rail map showing railways to Bamberg and Regensburg:

https://images.gutefrage.net/media/fragen-antworten/bilder/459443150/0_full.jpg?v=1655930239000

Rothenburg could be a day trip from Nuremberg too... figure 75-90 minutes with 2 changes of train. BUT...since you want to stay elsewhere... Würzburg - a nice place you've already researched - makes for a good base... 70 minutes to Rothenburg with only one change of train from W'burg. 4-5 nights in Würzburg is very doable with an outing or two. Other short outings from W'burg:

  • a half day outing to Iphofen?? (Direct train, 45 minutes, precious little place.)

  • a half day outing to Ochsenfurt (direct train, 18 minutes) and Marktbreit (4 minutes beyond Ochsenfurt)?? I find it amazing that these two attractive towns get completely ignored by tourists heading to Rothenburg - they are on the same train line to overcrowded Rothenburg but sadly, both get the stepsister treatment.

These outings of course are all optional. Do them if/when the spirit moves you.

Please note that if you like beer, Nuremberg will not disappoint. And of course you can find beer in Würzburg as well, though it's primarily a wine town. The Goldene Gans Biergarten in W'burg:

https://www.bierland-franken.de/wp-content/uploads/2022/11/wuerzburg-brauhaus-g1-768x576.jpg

Posted by
54 posts

Far from trying to break your trip, but have you considered Lake Constance? It is possibly the best season to go there - it is a wine and fruit region, so harvests and fresh products will be in full swing, it is still warm enough to do city trips, hikes and lake cruises, …
And if you do cut your other destinations a little, you can get multiple nights there without loosing on the other fronts.
As to the more general question:
Nuremberg is probably the most convenient in Bavaria, location wise - the others are easy day trips from there, including Rothenburg.
Strasbourg and Colmar are just 35 minutes away from each other, so one (probably Strasbourg, it’s bigger and more conveniently located) should do.
My suggestion would be 6-7 nights in Nuremberg, 6 nights in Strasbourg, 4-5 nights in Constance and 5 in Lucerne.

Posted by
470 posts

Lot of good advice in this thread. Good timing for your trip, you won't find Rothenburg as jam packed with tourists in Sept-Oct. My wife and I love Rothenburg, and usually stay 3 nights, but for your trip, maybe 2 nights would be plenty (lots of other places to see). We love it in the evening when it's quiet. Take the Night Watchman tour.

If you're a beer geek, Germany will be wonderful. Switzerland, not so much. I love Rauschbier, but have not gotten to Bamberg yet, It's on my list.

Luzerne is a good base (not Zurich), and there are a lot of 1-3 hour boat trips which are very scenic on Lake Luzerne, Lake Brienz (my favorite), and Lake Thun.

Posted by
2 posts

Wow! Thanks for all the great advice.
You’ve already helped us make a couple of choices:

  1. We booked the first 7 nights after Berlin in what seems like a very nice apartment in Nuremberg’s Old Town
  2. We booked the last 6 nights of the trip in what seems like a very nice apartment in Lucerne’s Old Town

Nuremberg seems wonderful enough, and, yes, also a short train ride from Würzburg, Rothenburg, Bamberg, and now Regensburg (you sold me). Not sure how many day trips we’ll make. As I said, lately, we prefer to settle down in one place for a while, so we’ll see how it goes.

And since we will be right off Lake Lucerne and close to public transportation, I don’t think we’ll run out of things to do there.

We’re still leaning towards filling the middle 10 nights primarily in the area around Strasbourg and Colmar.

I’m not discounting the suggestions for either Berner Oberland or Lake Constance. Those are both amazing suggestions that I was actually looking into. As someone mentioned, the weather in the Alps in early October might be a concern. The real issue is that I think we’re just running out of time (and brain space) to try and rethink the trip too much. I know I asked for it, but those will have to stay on our get-to-real-soon list for now.

From what I can determine, the best place to rent a car in the Alsace area is Strasbourg. Perhaps, we will make that the base for that leg of the trip and have a car for a few days while there. We’ll see if we find perhaps a better deal by splitting it up and spending half those nights in Colmar. Since we have 10 nights, we can maybe spend a few nights in one of the smaller villages along the wine route and maybe get even further off the grid for a while. :)

Anyway, thanks everybody!

Posted by
22633 posts

I would tend to rent the car in Colmar as it is smaller, parking easier, and Strasbourg is not particularly car-friendly.

Posted by
35681 posts

If you are willing to venture back over the river from Alsace to Baden-Württemberg there is a town on the edge of the Black Forest which can compete successfully with the beautiful Alsace wine villages - Gengenbach. It is past beautiful, has the little windy back lanes and I love it as do several others here.

With 10 days in the area it is well worth a visit.

Posted by
54 posts

Nuremberg, Strasbourg and Lucerne sound like a good plan!
I had just mentioned Lake Constance because it could be conveniently on the way from Strasbourg to Lucerne - similar to last posts mention of Black Forest. Though you might be faster to avoid Germany altogether on that part of the trip, to be fair…

Posted by
5 posts

I have been to Switzerland many times and I would try and make it to Zermatt and ride the gondolas to the top of the Matterhorn if you can. It is not close to Lucerne, but look iinto it if you need a couple of days to fill.

Sounds like you can't lose with the itinerary you already have.