Hi everyone!
I did manage to pick up a car (a few of you asked) the following day, though the SUV I originally selected was still not available when we arrived, so I went with a wagon they had, which beats a 7 person van! Roads here are great if anyone is wondering. I'm used to driving the hellscape of Los Angeles and this beats it any day. We drove from Cologne to Koblenz and visited Burg Eltz (go there shortly after it opened- which is highly recommended, there was a line of about 100+ people waiting to go in when we left), and also Reichsburg Cochem (really fun- rather long walk uphill). Both were pleasant and the weather was great! Driving in the fog was interesting (it was very foggy in the am). In Heidelburg yesterday and today. So far, not too crowded, though I'd imagine Heidelburg would be crazy during peak tourist times. Its off season-ish and there were a few hundred people in the old town area. For anyone who is interested I found a laundromat here that washes your clothing for you (Etzold's Washsalon) which is not super far from the "old town" area- one load is 12 euros (we had two loads) but they will wash and dry and fold for you.
Everywhere asks for your vaccine proof, some more stringent than others about the contact tracing, I think people generally aren't actually doing it--- maybe in the castles they are more persistent. But small shops? No (even though I think they are supposed to be- its more like leave it up to the customer). Most places are using the Luca app, which for me has been hit or miss depending on my mobile coverage.
So far most people seem enthusiastic about speaking English to us, even if we try to use terrible German. The only people who cannot speak English (or French-- I tried!) are the toilet police in the subways. It costs 50 cents to use the toilet. I put a 1 euro in, accidentally moved the metal stall pass through thing to get in, and so I went under and my friend and I got chewed out - they acted like they didn't pay! We told them we paid 1 euro and they didn't believe it and gave us an angry look like we were stealing a chance to pee. Go figure.... even though from where they were sitting they would have seen us put a coin in, or could have checked the machine...