Rhine, Bavaria in a few days

Burg Eltz is not on the Rhine, it's located in the backwoods up and beyond the Mosel river. If time is tight and you decide on the Rhine option, look into Marksburg, which is the best preserved castle on that river, located above the town of Braubach.

Don't overlook all the great stuff around Heidelberg, either. The Neckar river upstream from Heidelberg is flanked by a valley rather similar to the more famous Mittelrhein. There's about a dozen or so castles and most of the towns are pretty attractive... I think the Rhine towns in all the guidebooks have nothing on Dilsberg, Hirschhorn, Eberbach, Neckarsteinach, and Zwingenberg, for example. And before you decide to head off a few hours to the south for the Black Forest... look around you in Heidelberg. Those forested mountains are the western edge of the Odenwald region, where you will find beautiful small towns, and countless castles. The landscape is very similar to the Black Forest. I particularly like the towns of Lindenfels, Erbach, and Michelstadt.

"I arrive in Frankfurt on a Monday morning, have 4 days (Mon-Thurs) to play"

"Then I have Wednesday and Thursday (just two days) before I leave from Frankfurt on Friday morning."

It would make sense to visit your more distant target (Bavaria) starting on Monday. Visit the Middle Rhine valley on Wed and Thu.

I like the Black Forest very much, but I think with your limited time that Tom is right - the Neckar Valley offers similar charms. You might have time from Friday through Tuesday while you're in Heidelberg to see some things right nearby. In addition to Tom's suggestions look into LADENBURG (about 15 train minutes from Heidelberg) and Bad Wimpfen. (Triberg by the way, except for the Black Forest Museum, is an oversold disappointment.)

And talk about oversold... Neuschwanstein - King Ludwig's most well known "castle" - isn't a castle at all, just a late 19th century palace/home that looks amazing on glossy tourist brochures. I wouldn't waste the 5 hours it would take you to get there and back from Munich. I'd suggest instead that when you visit Munich, you see Nymphenburg Palace instead. And later, see some real castles in the Middle Rhine Valley.

BAVARIA: Consider a FRA - Würzburg (northern end of the Romantic Road) - Nuremberg - Munich route for Mon - Thu. On Monday you could take the train straight to Würzburg (northern Romantic Road city,) drop bags in a locker, sightsee there, then travel one more hour to Nuremberg for 3 nights. Spend one day on a day trip to Munich. Spend a 2nd day on a daytrip to Bamberg or IPHOFEN + Nuremberg (these 2 daytrips are very doable - only 45 min by direct train each way.) Then on Thursday see more in Nuremberg before you head to Heidelberg. Daypasses for these day trips are very cheap.

MIDDLE RHINE: Wed. morning, take the train to whatever town you'll stay in. (Boppard is excellent - lots of accommodations choices - and would position you well for trips to all the Rhine towns and for the longer trip to Burg Eltz. You can also catch direct trains from Boppard to FRA on Friday. St. Goar is also a good central option.)

Instead of using the train only, it is possible, if your choice of town is Boppard or St. Goar, to get off the train in Bingen with your bags, walk to the KD dock, and board a cruise boat to either town. Boppard takes 2.3 hours, St. Goar takes 1.5 hours, and you'll see the best part of the river scenery with either as a goal.

I would agree with Tom that Burg Eltz would be very time consuming. It might be best to visit the excellent and never-destroyed MARKSBURG CASTLE instead, which you can reach more quickly from the Rhine towns. From St. Goar (home of Rheinfels Castle ruins, by the way,) just ferry across the river (runs all day) and take the train 20 min. north to Braubach. From Boppard, ferry across the river, walk north maybe 15 min. to Filsen, and catch the train 7 min. north to Braubach. English tours at 1:00 and 4:00. Day trips by train here are quite cheap as well - if a little confusing to the first-time visitor.
Rhine/Mosel day passes

Not to dissuade you from this direction of travel, but just for the sake of argument, I'll point out that some further cities become "close" if served by fast trains, such as Frankfurt-Berlin direct trains at 4 hours each way. Further north on the Rhine, I've also enjoyed Cologne's sights that are right by the train station (1 hour from Frankfurt) - Gothic Cathedral, Roman museum, and modern art museum.

Thanks a bunch! I realize I can live without the Black Forest and also without King Ludwig's castle. I just thought it would be kind of fun to see. I will attempt to see more surrounding areas of Hiedelberg, per your suggestion while I'm there. And I was actually looking at Bad Wimpfen, I wasn't sure how easy it would be to get there though. I appreciate the suggestions about the middle Rhine.

One question. Does one need to book hotels/hostels in advance in Germany? On previous trips to Europe I usually just called a place a day in advance and had little trouble finding cheap but convenient and safe Hostels. I'm not sure what the situation is in Germany, however.

Russ, I noticed that you suggest taking a side trip Iphonen + Nuremberg as an option and then seeing more Nuremberg on Thursday before heading to Heidelberg. So did you mean a half day trip to Iphonen? Also, Iphonen looks great from the pictures I have seen, but I can't seem to get much info on the town. Is it a hidden gem? Any tips on where I can get more info?
Laura, thanks! I thought about that, but decided to go a different route this time.

"Does one need to book hotels/hostels in advance in Germany?"
It's a good idea to book if you don't want to waste time looking for a place or money staying somewhere that is overpriced if there is a rush on rooms. That said, you need to be sure when you book; German law does not automatically guarantee cancellation rights, and cancellation policies vary a lot. You're best off looking at the local tourist office websites for rooms - they have the most complete listings and include less expensive private B& B's.

Boppard accommodations
St. Goar accommodations

"Russ, I noticed that you suggest taking a side trip Iphonen + Nuremberg as an option and then seeing more Nuremberg on Thursday before heading to Heidelberg. So did you mean a half day trip to Iphonen?"

Yes, you could see Iphofen in half a day easily enough. It is on the main train route between Nuremberg and Würzburg and is served by direct train.

"Also, Iphofen looks great from the pictures I have seen, but I can't seem to get much info on the town. Is it a hidden gem?"
You could say that. It's a very special old walled town, a place with a focus on wine and art. Most visitors are Germans. I'd just as soon Rick never laid eyes on the place (lest it become disproportionately populated by the international tourist crowd.)

This Iphofen TI office brochure should be helpful.

Don't mean to complicate your decision making, but this region has other such gems as well. The Franconian Freilandmuseum is a true highlight - a collection of 400-600-year-old rural buildings reassembled in Bad Windsheim that really takes you back through time. From Nuremberg, Bad Windsheim is less than one hour by train.

Franconian Freilandmuseum
This detailed articlemay be helpful.

I should have given you the daypass info for the Nuremberg region. HERE IT IS. €17.50 for a full day of travel to Bamberg, Bad Windsheim, Iphofen.

If you don't want to stay in Nuremberg, there are options. I've stayed in Neustadt an der Aisch twice previously; it's a small, typical, non-touristy Franconian town between Iphofen and Nuremberg. Last year I was alone and had a mini-studio on the top floor of a private home right near the center of town and within walking distance of the station. The friendly Haag family has this webpage with availability chart, photos, and prices (in German.) Use an online translator? Price is about €19/night for one person - make your own breakfast in the mini-kitchen. Email: familie.haag@freenet.de

Neustadt an der Aisch in winter

From Neustadt an der Aisch it's easy to day trip to Nuremberg, Iphofen, and Bad Windsheim, and it would be easy to get to Würzburg on the day you leave as well (40 min. away.)

Russ, Thank you so much again for your help. The info on places to stay in middle rhine will be invaluable, I'm sure. I am now thinking that I will go straight to Nuremberg, although Neustadt an der Aisch sounds great. I contacted the Haag family but I think they are booked. If I did find an alternative in Neustadt an der Aisch, I'm not sure it would be as convenient as if I were to stay in Nuremberg, however, since that day pass from Nuremberg is so convenient. So nice to stay in small charming towns, though! And I totally understand what you mean about not wanting Iphonen to become overcrowded with tourists. Anyway, I think I will do a day trip to Iphonen and maybe Bad Windsheim and/or Bamburg (not sure if thats too much for one day), spend one day in Nuremberg, and make another day trip to Munich. Then as you say, I could stop in Würzburg on my way to Hiedelberg. Would you buy bus tickets in advance online, or just wait till you were there?

Thanks again! Germany is such a big and spread out country to know what to see in a short time, and you have been such a great help. :-) Kari

06/21/14 07:35 AM
3 posts

"If I did find an alternative in Neustadt an der Aisch, I'm not sure it would be as convenient as if I were to stay in Nuremberg, however, since that day pass from Nuremberg is so convenient."
The daypass isn't ONLY from Nuremberg. You can use it from any town within the VGN area to any other town within the VGN area - so using it from Iphofen, Bad Windsheim, or Bamberg is no problem. It's just that Nuremberg is THE train hub for the area and approximately equidistant to these other destinations - so N'berg is a more ideal base town, generally, than Neustadt/Aisch. But if your daytrips do not include Bamberg - but do include Iphofen, Bad Windsheim and Nuremberg, then Neustadt an der Aisch would actually be better.

"I think I will do a day trip to Iphonen and maybe Bad Windsheim and/or Bamburg (not sure if thats too much for one day)"
Yes, too much. Iphofen and Bad Windsheim might be combinable in a long day. Bamberg is in the opposite direction and good for a day of its own.

"Would you buy bus tickets in advance online, or just wait till you were there?"

Bus tickets?? Würzburg and Heidelberg are destinations you would reach by train. I don't know the date of your Thursday trip to H'berg, but you can check the ticketing options at the DB itinerary page HERE. Standard fare for journeys that include high speed trains run about €60-70 from Neustadt or Nuremberg if you buy there. If you find a good advance-purchase saver fare, say from Nuremberg to Heidelberg - some are as low as €29 - you should try scheduling a stopover in Würzburg for several hours and see what sort of fare you get.

The other option - using the regional trains only - might take up to an hour longer. The fare is €38.40 from Neustadt to Heidelberg, about €5 more from Nuremberg. You can find regional-only trains at the DB site by specifying "only local transport" under "means of transport" at the above link. You can just buy these tickets later when you travel - no savings are available online in advance.

Just FYI, Iphofen is pronounced "Ip - hoe - fun" - roughly.

Russ- Thanks for all your help and the specifics on train info. I will look into those options. Oops, yah, I meant Train Tickets. I am very excited for my trip! Oh, and thanks for the pronunciation. :-)