Need advice on a two-week itinerary for Bavaria and Salzburg

I won't comment on total itinerary but offer my experiences for Munich and Salzburg. In Munich we took a trip out to Dachau (I think we were back in Munich about 2:00 in the afternoon). We found it a worthwhile experience. Apparently some people are too moved to do anything the rest of the day; we did not have that experience. While we already knew a great deal about WWII and the Holocaust, all of us learned something new while there. I highly recommend it. We also took a day trip to Berchtesgaden while in Salzburg. We took the tour recommended by Rick Steves (David and Christine) and found it a knowledgeable experience. We learned far more than we ever would have going on our own. It was worth the money.

During our last trip to Germany/Austria, we went from Munich to Mittenwald to Salzburg to St. Wolfgang (then on to Melk & Vienna) - all by train except we took a short bus ride and boat out to St. Wolfgang. In Mittenwald, we hiked around the area and took the gondola up the mountain. We also rented bikes and rode around town. I went through the violin museum in town which had fascinating history of the town, also. St. Wolfgang was one of our favorite stops - quaint village on a beautiful lake with hiking around and the Schafberg Cog Railway up the mountain. We were in Salzburg for 4 days during that trip and always enjoy returning. The Salzburg Card was an excellent option for us.

For us, we enjoy staying in the smaller towns overnight, so we can experience the ambiance of the town in the evening and morning. For anyplace touristy, that can be an important consideration.

I haven't been to Nuremberg so can't comment regarding that area.

4 nights may be a little long for Salzburg, unless you use one day for Berchtesgaden, one for Hallstadt and another for a Sound of Music Tour. Although the modern city is fairly large, the old center occupies a surprisingly small area. About as large as a shopping mall.

Nuremberg or Bamberg for 5 nights (to see both cities and take day trips to other towns like Rothenberg and Regensberg and any others you may suggest) Give Coburg a look. I think the main castle, Veste Coburg, is the best in Germany.

How about seeing the castles on your way to staying somewhere in that direction, as opposed to a day trip? It makes a long day trip from Munich for the little time you will spend there.

I think a day trip to Hallstatt would be rushed. It's much better as an overnight trip. I've been to both places (Hallstatt once, Berchtesgaden 4 times). Both are worth visiting, but Berchtesgaden is much closer.

I wouldn't bet a rail pass. A daily Bayern-Ticket will cover you for anywhere in Bavaria (and to Salzburg) for a lot less. There is also the Einfach Raus Ticket in Austria.

There is a lot to see in Munich, but Dachau would not be high on my priority list.

If you have reservations in advance, the castles could be done as a day trip from Munich (with a Bayern-Ticket).

We will be getting the regional (Germany and Austria) rail passes

Like Lee says, just use regional passes instead. It's getting more and more difficult to find value in rail passes these days. For example, the cheapest Germany/Austria pass right now is the 4 travel days over 2 months pass. For two adults, 2. class, traveling together, with the current 20% off special, plus 15% for traveling together the cost comes out to be 350€ or 87.50€ per travel day for two people. Compare that with a daily Bayern Ticket for two people at 31€ per travel day for two people.

A Bayern Ticket also covers local transport in Munich and Nuremberg (U-Bahn, trams and buses) which a Eurail pass does not.

Munich for 5 nights (to see the city and take one or two day trips south to see castles)

Take train to Salzburg.

Salzburg for 4 nights (to see the city and take a day trip to Berchtesgaden or Hallstadt...which is better?)

Nuremberg or Bamberg for 5 nights

4 days in Salzburg would be overkill to me. It can be done as a day trip from Munich. Hallstatt is nice but a bit out of the way especially if you are not planning on spending the night. If you are just looking for a small town on a lake in the mountains there are more accessible options closer to Munich (Kochelsee, Walchensee, Tegernsee, Schliersee, Spitzingsee, Köningsee). What I would suggest instead is after your time in Munich, do a day trip to Salzburg but stop for 2-3 nights in Berchtesgaden before heading up to Nuremberg. Nuremberg is probably better as a base for day trips by train than Bamberg but it really depends on what you are planning on seeing.

My 2¢,

DJ

For a wonderfully "off the beaten path" activity in Salzburg that allows you to rub shoulders with locals, take a 30-minute walk from the old town to the modern, architecturally-interesting Stadtbibliothek (city library), where you can enjoy a coffee and an impressive view in the library's cafe. The easy trek to the library (directions below) includes a very pleasant stroll on a paved riverside footpath and a walk along a city street filled with a variety of ethnic eateries. The building in which the library is located conjures up the image of a dinosaur (at least in my mind), with the head of the dinosaur housing a cafe that offers majestic views of the old town, the modern city, and the surrounding mountains. A diagonally-traveling elevator carries you from the 2nd floor of the library, through the neck of the dinosaur, and up to the cafe. Pop into the Interspar across the street from the library to see the European version of a a large grocery/hypermarket; grab an Almdudler from the cooler on the way out to enjoy the lemon-ginger ale flavor of Austria's soft drink. On the walk back to the old town, the riverside footpath offers one of the best views of the old town that Salzburg has to offer.

Directions to the Stadtbibliothek from the old town: walk northwest on the riverside footpath along the Salzach River, pass a small playground (stop long enough to marvel at the creative slides, as well as the climbing structure that would never be allowed in the US), walk under the bridge for trains, ascend to Ignaz-Harrer-Straße, turn left on Ignaz-Harrer-Straße, walk 6 blocks to Hüttenbergstraße, turn right onto Hüttenbergstraße, look up to the left, and follow your eyes to the building that vaguely resembles a dragon. This brings you to the back of the building, which is more visually interesting than the front; walk to the front of the building to enter the library.

Buying an Austria/Germany rail pass is throwing money down the toilet. Use Bayern or einfachraus tickets instead.

For the Salzburg portion, 4 days is right on to me. I'd do B'gaden and Hallstatt. Consider St. Wolfgang and the Wolfgangsee as well.

I like the looks of Bamberg over Nuremberg as our base. Is that a good choice?

Not if you plan a day trip to Rothenburg, which is easy from Nuremberg but adds at least two hours train ride from Bamberg. And while Bamberg is certainly an historical gem, Nürnberg has a much better selection of hotels and restaurants. And the medieval city has much to offer, too.
If you stay in Nürnberg over the weekend you could do Rothenburg and Bamberg on saturday and sunday with a single VGN+ ticket (ca. 19 E. for the family).