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Mittenwald in December

We, a family of 4 with two male teenagers, will be in Bavaria the week before Christmas. We will stay near Rothenburg (yes, I know it is touristy...we've been there before) for a couple of days and in Munich for 4 or 5 days. We are staying in vacation apartments and will have a rental car. I've been thinking it would be lovely to spend one night in or near Mittenwald between our stays in Rothenburg and Munich. I'm dreaming of snow (I live in TX), mountains (I live on the prairie) and a warm guesthouse with a lovely German breakfast. What activities will there be for non-skiers? I've been in this area several times but never in December. What Christmas markets do you recommend? We won't be going to Neuschwanstein. Not doing much of anything for a day is also perfectly acceptable.

Any thoughts as to road conditions? I've never driven in snow! We like the flexibility of having a car outside of larger cities. I've driven thousands of km's in Europe just not in the winter.

Any advice as to a lovely pension or guesthouse?

Thanks!
Lorri

Posted by
7814 posts

Hi Lorri, we were just staying in Mittenwald a few weeks ago. If you're staying in a hotel in the area for a couple of days, they will give you a free Karwendel Visitor Card which gives you free travel on all of the buses in the area that go to the ski lifts and to areas to hike. There's some nice hikes in the area, and I really enjoyed the violin museum. If you decide you don't want to drive there, we took the train from Munich.

We stayed at the Hotel Alpenhotel Rieger which was a block from the cute downtown street. They have a great breakfast but not sure if your sons would enjoy that location since it's decorated like "Grandma's house". But, the price was very good - $135/night.

Posted by
19274 posts

No need for a car to get to Mittenwald from Munich. There are hourly trains from Munich Hbf to the Mittenwald station. Most are direct; a few require an easy change of trains in Garmisch-Partenkirchen. The trip takes less than 2 hours (about as long as the drive, if nothing goes wrong).

If you go directly from Munich to Mittenwald by train, snowy roads will not be a problem.

If you want to get off the beaten path a bit, on the way back, take the bus (RVO 9608) to Kochel, past Walchensee, then the train from Kochel back to Munich. I've been on this route twice, it's very scenic.

Posted by
5511 posts

Consider the Hotel Princess Bergfrieden in Seefeld. Absolutely great for a family.

Posted by
12040 posts

Snow is almost never an issue on the main and secondary routes in Germany. This is a ski resort, the town's winter livelihood depends on keeping the roads open and easily drivable.

Back streets may not be completely plowed, but they're managable.

Posted by
16 posts

Thanks for the replies so far.

Jean, "Grandma's" house might be fine since we are doing this trip instead of visiting Grandma! LOL

Lee, we will have a car on this trip. I have done trains a lot in and around Germany and elsewhere in Europe. I've driven the route you suggested to take by bus and it really is quite beautiful. I think the Kochel See is one of the loveliest. We are pretty committed to the car since we will actually be staying outside of cities with minimal public transportation. We also like the flexibility of stopping and starting when and where we want and not lugging even our traveling light luggage on and off trains. I've done it both ways. I've actually used this area as a base to go into Munich as a day trip. Most people do it the other way around. I live in a big city...I like staying out in the country.

Emily, thanks, I will look into that.

Thanks, Tom, I just needed a little encouragement!

Posted by
328 posts

If you get lucky enough to have some snow then I'd just spend my time wandering around Mittenwald and maybe some of the other small towns in the area. Snow makes this lovely region even more like a fairy-tale in my opinion. We spent a few days in Oberammergau just before Christmas two years ago and had snow ... all we wanted to do was wander around the village and soak in the beauty. If the timing is right, you might be able to find some pre-Christmas carolling or a church service for a little added atmosphere and culture - one of my best childhood memories is the music at a Christmas Eve service in one of the grand Rococo Churches in Bavaria. Your hotel should be able to help you with that type of thing.

If there is snow, you may even be lucky enough to find a sleigh ride topped off with some hot chocolate, gluhwein or schnapps. Again, your best bet is to ask your hotel for this type of thing.

I'm pretty certain there is a Weinachtsmarkt in Mittenwald, although I've never been. There is one in Oberammergau and probably a half dozen other little towns around you. A quick google search should give you the information you need.

Driving in the snow can be tricky if you are not used to it. In my experience snowy roads are very well maintained so you shouldn't have any real problems. If you do encounter snow ... just make sure you take it slow, try to follow in other driver's tracks and don't make any sudden turns with your wheel.

Posted by
12040 posts

One caveat about snow and driving... my remarks about you not having any problems driving implies that you're not behind the wheel while the snow actually falls (and immediately afterwards to allow the crews time to clear the roads).

Posted by
2981 posts

Hi,

We stayed twice in Mittenwald and visited just once in winter, very early December. It was completely dead the second day of December, just about nothing was open. Regardless, it was snowing, the ground was snow covered and Mittenwald resembled a snow globe. Absolutely charming.

That day we drove from Hall in Tirol to Seefeld to Mittenwald and back (in the dark on the way back) and it was snowing going both ways. Take it slow if caught in the snow. Plows were out immediately in our experience.

Garmisch's market is 11/28 - 12/23
http://www.gapa.de/christkindlmarkt

Mittenwald's Christmas Market is from 12/17 - 12/20/2015.
http://www.alpenwelt-karwendel.de/christkindlmarkt-in-mittenwald

Oberammergau's markets are 12/12 and 12/13
http://www.bavaria.us/christmas-market-in-oberammergau

Ettal
http://www.carnifest.com/events/germany/garmisch-partenkirchen/726/ettal-christmas-market-oberammergau-weihnachtsmarkt-2015.aspx

Paul

Posted by
16 posts

Thanks for all the feedback. It is sounding more and more delightful all the time!

Posted by
334 posts

I was there last year and fell in love with Bavaria in general. I so want to go back lol I think the roads will be fine and a place to stay should be also easy to find. We stayed in a small B&B and while kind a rustic it was beautiful . It was pretty inexpensive as well. Enjoy your time in Europe. I will be in Europe as well right before Christmas .

Posted by
1389 posts

Don't count on snow in Mittenwald in December. I've been in Garmish in early December with no snow and in Mittenwald in February with warm temps and not too much snow. Sled riding was out of the question. Maybe better to plan a spot in Austria in higher elevations; however one overnight might be difficult to book in early ski season and over the Christmas and Silvester Holidays. As far as driving in snow, just follow the traffic and don't get too confident.