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Middle Rhine Valley, May 2026

Hi friends, my wife and I are flying into Frankfurt next May (2026) and are searching for a home base to spend four nights to explore the Middle Rhine Valley. I know Bacarach is Rick's go-to suggestion. But, I'm having trouble deciding on a hotel and/or village to use.

Does anyone have any thoughts or suggestions? We'll be using rail only, direct from the Frankfurt Airport station. We're intending this as a low-key, restful adventure before seeing friends of ours who live elsewhere in Germany. Preferably, we'd spend all four nights in one hotel. We're really not picky, so long as there is rail access, a little Edeka-type grocery store, and pretty surroundings. We like to hike, so nearby trail access would be a plus.

Thanks

Posted by
514 posts

Bacharach is nice, we like the Altes Haus restaurant there. But we prefer St. Goar. We've stayed at the Rhein Hotel in St. Goar, nice place, very close to ferries and railway. You definitely want to take a boat downriver, and probably take a train back up to St. Goar. Lots of castles, Deutsche Ecke, vinyards, etc.... Rudesheim is very interesting, lots to see there, but very touristy, may be very crowded. I wouldn't stay in Rudesheim. But from Rudesheim, there's a nice hike and/or chairlift toward Niederwald.

Posted by
6757 posts

We really enjoyed Boppard, as it's right on the Rhine, has a nice energy, and is close to transportation connections. The Belleview Hotel is our favorite. And, we enjoyed the chairlift and view from the top.
Note that Bacharach is very tiny, and is back away from the Rhine, behind the railroad tracks.
Have a great trip!

Posted by
9618 posts

Take a look at Eltville. Big enough to have what you want, but still a small village feel. Nice promenade along the Rhein. Lots of good places to eat. The near-by Eberbach Monastery is a must in my opinion for anyone visiting the Rhein area. Hiking is near-by too. Trains going to Wiesbaden, Mainz and Frankfurt every hour, as well as the other direction to Rüdesheim, Koblenz, St. Goarshausen, etc.

Posted by
7853 posts

"We like to hike, so nearby trail access would be a plus."

ANY Rhine town will provide this access. It's an absolute hiker's paradise. Same goes for the train stations.

But it does pay to be "picky" about scenery. All towns within the Rhine gorge are attractive on some level, but St Goar (travelerguy's tip) and Boppard are at the top of the list when it comes to river scenery. Both of these towns have riverfront hotels with great views across the river:

ST. GOAR: Rheinhotel St Goar (some rooms with balcony) and Hotel Rheinfels offer great views and good proximity to KD cruise boat dock and the station. AND to the ferry crossing to reach the opposite riverbank. You can see both the KD dock and the tip of the ferry boat in the photo below, taken from the Rheinhotel:

https://dynamic-media-cdn.tripadvisor.com/media/photo-o/18/9e/0f/df/rheinhotel-st-goar.jpg?w=1400&h=-1&s=1

BOPPARD: Check out the Bellevue and the Ebertor (has both rooms and hostel rooms) for starters. There are others along the nicely-developed waterfront promenade as well, with several restaurants sandwiched in there as well. It's a slightly longer walk from the waterfront to the station in Boppard, but cruise boat docks and a ferry crossing are right there on the promenade as well.

The views in St Goar are better IMO. And Rheinfels Castle is right there in town. The ferry crossing there is a little handier than Boppard's since it's a short walk to the station on the opposite river bank for trips to Marksburg Castle, Rüdesheim, etc. AFAIK, there is just one small grocery store in St Goar (operated by the town.)

The Boppard waterfront is a fun, more active place with more options. Boppard is a larger town with multiple grocery stores and more going on including the Rhine's coolest chairlift. Visiting Rheinfels Castle is not hard from here since St Goar is only 10 train minutes away. Boppard has a much larger choice of restaurants in town. And as previously mentioned, the Guest Ticket is offered to every guest there once they've checked in. That covers most of your train/bus transportation needs during your stay, including trips you might make up the Mosel to Cochem and Burg Eltz, or further up the Rhine as far as Remagen. (Note that such trips, if you will be making them, will require a bit less time from Boppard than from St Goar.) Also: Boppard is served by direct RE train from FRA airport. Getting between St Goar and FRA will always require a change of train.

So generally, the game goes to Boppard, IMO, but St Goar is a great choice if you want to spend extra time just enjoying the river views from your hotel window or balcony.

Eltville and Rüdesheim: I rate these lower as travel base towns. Eltville lies outside the gorge (less natural scenery) and R'heim is a bit too touristy and generally less scenic as well than the other towns further north. Both are nice towns to visit if you have time.

Bacharach: A must-visit town for the half-timbered buildings there. But not really as scenic since the town is set back from the river too far for views, the exception being the splurgey Auf Schönburg Castle/Hotel at the top of the cliffs (not a good choice for train travelers, unfortunately.)

Oberwesel: Not as good a base town either... but a great hike exists from St Goar to Oberwesel along the clifftops, figure about 2.5 hours... and the remnants of the old town fortifications there make for a nice walk as well... use the Oberwesel train station to return to your base.

https://www.tripadvisor.com/Attraction_Review-g198501-d2189241-Reviews-City_Fortifications-Oberwesel_Rhineland_Palatinate.html

Posted by
2 posts

Thanks all! Extremely appreciated.

I've booked in St. Goar. Eltville looked very promising, and has a cruise dock. But, I can tell that it must be popular among Germans because all of the hotels I looked at there are already booked for the Saturday we land. Also, distance is a bit of a concern. Likewise, Boppard looks amazing --- and will be our backup plan in case of any reservation issues. We will definitely take the short train ride up to visit and take the chair lift. Kaub wasn't mentioned (probably due to its tiny size), but we really want to go there for a day trip. They've an interesting looking museum, and the island fortress of Pfalzgrafenstein.

One last question --- does anyone know if the VRM Guest Ticket adds any added value over the Deutschland Ticket? https://www.vrminfo.de/en/tickets/tickets/leisure-tickets/vrm-guest-ticket/

We plan on traveling on our Deutschland Tickets on the Regional Trains (RE) out of Frankfurt to and from St. Goar, of course. But, while in the area, does the VRM Guest Ticket give us anything extra? Maybe ferry access across to the other bank on the Rhine?

Thanks again to you all.

Posted by
7853 posts

The VRM Ticket is not for sale, nor is it automatically available to you if your base is St. Goar, where individual proprietors decide whether to offer it to you. Perhaps the place you booked DOES offer it. You can inquire. However, there is no additional transportation value to this ticket beyond the Deutschland ticket unless you have certain days which are not covered by the D-Ticket (which is valid only for a CALENDAR month.)

Neither the D-Ticket nor the Guest Ticket can be used with the St Goar ferry, AFAIK, though I have read that it's accepte on certain ferries to the north (Remagen, Linz, Koblenz.) Of course, if you end up with one, it never hurts to present the Guest Ticket just in case.

From St. Goar to Marksburg Castle: I may have implied that the ferry was necessary to reach Braubach (home of the intact, medieval Marksburg Castle and a stunning half-timbered town; just click on the link below for 3 pages of photos.)

The ferry is not needed. Just take the train from St Goar to Koblenz and change there for the 10-minute ride to Braubach.

https://www.stadtbild-deutschland.org/forum/index.php?thread/7322-braubach-am-rhein-und-marksburg-galerie/

Handy transport map for the area:

http://www.loreley-info.com/eng/rhein-rhine/walking-hiking.php