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Itiniary tips for Germany vist, including the Mosel, Rhine, and Bavaria

My girlfriend and I are planning a trip to Germany this summer for 13 full days + 2 travel days. The rough sketch of the itiniary looks like this:
Day 1 - Arrival in Dusseldorf in the evening and take a train to Cologne
Day 2 - See the Cologne cathedral and travel to the Mosel in the evening
Day 3-5 - Mosel, Rhine and onwards to Mainz
Day 6 - Mainz
Day 7 - Rothenburg
Day 8-10 - Open
Day 11-14 - Munich (including a day trip to Neuschwanstein)
Day 15 - Departure from Munich in the morning

Now, we're trying to find the best use of our time. We're planning on traveling by train mostly, but we definitely want to do some kind of river cruise on either the Mosel or Rhine or both. As I understand it the Mosel mostly has shortert trips that do little rounds up and down the river, while the Rhine has more of a hop on/hop off type of thing. The most important thing for us to experience is a visit to a vineyard/wine tasting, visiting some castles (especially Burg Eltz), and we think Bacharach looks especially cosy. We love small towns that are sleepy and not overcrowded, but its nice to be able to find a bite to eat. Other than that we have no predispositions on where it is best to stay, so all our preliminary plans are just based on what we think is "best".

We are considering spending a night each in Cochem and Bacharach. On the Mosel side we think it might be interesting to visit Beilstein and Burg Eltz, while on the Rhine side we thought we could take a boat from Koblenz to St. Goar to have a look, and then on to Bacharach. I know that we would be traveling upstream on the Rhine, and I don't know if that will be very time cosuming. I am also very confused about how the cruises work, so I would love some advice on which websites to check out. I read somewhere that there is no need to book these cruises in advance, even the ones with refreshments on the Mosel. Also there was supposed to be a Rhine pass that let you do the hop on/hop off. Is this true?

The only thing that is booked are the flight tickets, so if it is more feasible to take a train and then travel downstream by boat on the Rhine to save time, that is possible. Also, are the castles along the Rhine accessible, or is it mostly the castles near the towns that are worth visiting? We are not afraid of a hike! I'm also wondering if 2 days in Mosel and Rhine is a good amount. Also, as you can see there are quite some days open. We figured Rothenburg is quite touristy, so we only wanted a quick visit. I love medieval history, so I thought it could be nice with a visit to Aachen right after Cologne, and maybe a visit to Bamberg or Regensburg. I'd love some tips about this too!

I hope this post is comprehensible and not too long. Thank you if you read it all. Any tips, big or small, are greatly appreciated!

Posted by
4032 posts

Two things from my side.

Close to Mainz you will find Eltville at river Rhine which is much smaller and quaint. Good opportunity to stay.
For movie fans Kloster Eberbach (monastery) is a great opportunity for overnight stay and wine tasting - you know parts of it from the name of the rose with Sean Connery.

After Rothenburg odT you can consider either Bamberg with World Heritage old town and / or Herzogenaurach, global HQs of Adidas and Puma, with nice old town elements and outlets of both brands plus Nike (link). Tip: check for VAT refund.

Have a good journey.

Posted by
2822 posts

I’d take your 3 open days and split them 2 to Rhine/Mosel and 1 to Rothenburg

Posted by
2193 posts

I'd add days on either the Rhine, or the Mosel. And if you like medieval history, and you don't visit the Fortress Ehrenbreitstein above Koblenz you're missing one of the greats (much better than Burg Eltz). Likewise, if you go all the way up the Rhine to Rudesheim you should go up to the Niederwalddenkmal. (I don't understand why more tourist don't visit this). Don't miss the Roman temple to Isis in Mainz, or the Chagall windows at St Stephans. There are a lot of castles on the Rhine, but Rheinfels is the one to hike up to for the view. If you must cruise, take the Rhine as a day trip. If you have a car just head to Trier from Cochem, along the river, and stop any place you find. (You probably won't make Trier, but there's a lot to see enroute.) More medieval stuff near Rothenberg is the open air museum in Bad Windsheim. You should also take a look and see if there's a fest while you're here; they have them every weekend somewhere along the Rhine and Mosel.

Posted by
4 posts

Thanks for all the great suggestions. I think I'll definitely add one or two days to Mosel/Rhine. Also I read that Boppard might be a better base on the Rhine over Bacharach since it may be too sleepy, so I think I'll take that into account.

Posted by
128 posts

Your trip very much resembles mine last summer, although we traveled by car when we left Dusseldorf then returned the car when we arrived in Munich.

Day 8-10 - Open
Day 11-14 - Munich (including a day trip to Neuschwanstein)

After Rothenberg Obt, I would recommend staying somewhere in the Alps, either Garmisch-Partenkirchen or Fussen. It really is a beautiful region. That way, you eliminate a day trip to Neuschwanstein while in Munich and it opens up a day trip to Salzburg if you're so inclined.

Posted by
1467 posts

Your post is just fine, frankly the more information you provide, the better. Welcome to the Forum! There's been some great ideas already posted, so I will only comment on my visit last week to Mainz. I really enjoyed it, though the Old Town is small, there is plenty to see. Personally, I would prioritize the Chagall Stained Glass windows at 10:00 AM opening, it was empty, (take cash for post cards & if you want the audio guide, which was great). And the Gutenberg Museum (closed Mondays). Print demo on the hour until 4PM except 1PM included in your ticket price.

Here's my trip report, for a longer version! I did find a nice cafe within walking distance of St Stephans, worth it for the baked goods alone. And I've linked a worthwhile Stephen Fry documentary on Gutenberg in TR. Enjoy your trip, it sounds wonderful! https://community.ricksteves.com/travel-forum/trip-reports/6-nights-in-germany-mainz-heidelberg-heidelberg-was-gorgeous.

Posted by
21 posts

We just got back Wed from Germany and Amsterdam trip. We stayed in Boppard for two nights at the Bellevue Rheinhotel. Beautiful room with a balcony overlooking the river. The hotel staff were all so welcoming. We did a day cruise with KD from Boppard to St Goar and back, purchasing tickets about 15min before the cruise started. While in St Goar we toured the Burg Rheinfels castle. It was a great day trip, highly recommend.

Posted by
4 posts

Thanks for the tips on Mainz, Sandancisco! I know very little of the town, aside from the historical importance, so it's great to have some insight on what to see!
AnnieD, after reading some here on the forum I think Boppard will be our base for the Rhine, so I'll be sure to check out the Bellevue Rheinhotel. Did you visit the Mosel too? If so, was it the same deal as with the KD, where you did not need to book the cruise in advance?

Posted by
21 posts

Hallvard, no we only stayed on the Rhine. We only had 2 days there, and now wish we had stayed longer. The towns of Boppard and St. Goar were really nice to walk around and stop in shops, cafe's. etc.

Posted by
4 posts

From my side I would suggest you to have a look at this hotel in Munich, where I had a great stay couple of months ago. Excellent value for money!

Posted by
7608 posts

Please take AnnieD's comment regarding more time for the Rhine/Mosel. 2 days will not do the trick.

http://www.loreley-info.com/eng/rhein-rhine/walking-hiking.php

The map above covers the most scenic part of the Rhine Valley. There are nice Rhine towns outside this zone (Mainz, Eltville,. etc.) but a stay within the scenic part will enhance your experience. Boppard is great. St Goar too. If you add time to the area, as you should, and wish to stay in just ONE place, Boppard works well for doing a day trip to the Mosel. One Mosel day is better than no Mosel days, but you will feel like AnnieD did about leaving too early... make time for 2 days there (Cochem?) with at least one overnight if possible.

If you love medieval history as you claim, please don't skip Marksburg Castle. Click on the map icon and go to the Marksburg Castle page for details. Rheinfels (in St Goar) is a worthwhile set of ruins if you have time; Marksburg is essential. The town of Braubach (home of Marksburg) is only 12 minutes from Koblenz by train and quite enchanting - walk through and have a meal there during your visit.

Cruising the Rhine: AnnieD's cruise missed the most scenic part. Cruise from Bingen (or Rüdesheim) to St Goar (or St Goarshausen) at a minimum; continue past St Goar to Boppard with an additional hour if time permits.

Cruising the Mosel: We've found the segment between Traben-Trarbach and Bernkastel the most rewarding... 2 hours on the water, some time in these two wine towns (Bernkastel has stunning old half-timbered buildings!) and an hour of transport to Bernkastel beforehand, with a little less time for the return to your Cochem base town afterward... This is a full-day undertaking, but very worthwhile.

Mainz: A night there should be adequate. If you are pressed for time, consider turning Mainz into a stopover between the Rhine/Mosel and Munich. Mainz has station lockers where you can leave bags while you do some focused sightseeing there for a few hours. Mainz > Munich by train takes about 4 hours if you leave town at around 16:00.

Posted by
8774 posts

One tip: Figure out what days are Sundays, and verify your itinerary those days. In Germany almost all shops, stores, supermarkets, and a variety of other things will be closed. Most restaurants and tourist sights will be open though. Some towns are a bit dead on Sunday, but parks and outdoor venues will be more crowded than usual if the weather is nice. The same goes for Holidays. For Summer, Whit Monday, Corpus Christi Day, and Assumption might apply.

If your plans align with a medium size town, with a Market, Saturdays can be really vibrant and fun, just to wander the city center and mingle with people.

Posted by
1524 posts

Yes visit Franconia and Oberphalz. Lots to see and the Bier is 1/4 price.