Is Heidelberg that bad?

Its a great destination. I think it had a reputation of being too Americanized because of the heavy US and NATO military presence in the area, but I think that is much reduced. The castle looming over town makes it worth seeing. Its a living breathing city, so commercialization is no different than anywhere else.

Is it really overrun by Americans and ruined by commercialization?

Not more than Bacharach and Füssen... ;-)

I don't think anyone who's ever visited Heidelberg understands Mr. Steves' critique of it. Even at the height of the American presence in the city, US soldiers were a drop in the bucket compared to the Germans, especially the large university population . And now, the bases are closed, so the US presence is probably limited to a small population of ex-pats. I also don't understand the comment about it being "too commercial". It's a thriving university city. Yes, it receives a lot of tourists, but except for the bridge and the castle, their presence is barely noticable among the students. Unlike some of the tourist funhouses he highly recommends (Rothenburg odT, Bacharach) you'll find very few trinket shops.

Ignore Mr. Steves on this one.

Thanks for the quick replies! I'll add it to our itinerary and start looking for someplace to stay!

It's not really a BAD place and is not overrun with Americans - not like many places (If you're worried about tourists, why are you in Füssen? For Neuschwanstein??? ) Hi'berg is just OK, not so very exceptional IMO. Kind of a big city at 150,000 people.

Your train route to Bacharach probably goes through Mannheim. Ladenburg is a good small-town alternative to Heidelberg and 15 minutes from Mannheim by train: http://www.virtualtourist.com/travel/Europe/Germany/Land_Baden_Wuerttemberg/Ladenburg-43630/TravelGuide-Ladenburg.html

My advice. Ignore Rick Steves. Rothenberg is a tourist zoo (but a very attractive one) compared to Heidelberg.

I really like Heidelberg and don't understand at all why Rick slams it. The castle is beautiful, the view from there is gorgeous, and the Apotheke Museum that comes with your ticket to the castle and funicular is actually very interesting. Riding the funicular is a fun trip in itself.

The 2 main churches are well worth some time and I find the Jesuit church to be truly elegant, with clean lines and colors. Go in the garden off to the side.

Make sure to visit the Student Prison and the Aula of the university. I went to Heidelberg many times before visiting the Student prison, not knowing what a unique place this is. There are also many nice side streets to explore, with cafes, and even a Kathe Wohlfart store.

Mark Twain knew what he was talking about when he praised Heidelberg. If it was good enough for him, it is good enough for me.

We will discuss Mainz and Wiesbaden some other time, they get the same slamming treatment in the books.

I like Heidelberg very much. Why RS hates it is beyond me.

Interestingly, sometimes he builds up a place so much it gets over-run.

He hasn't yet railed against the Cinque Terre, but in a recent video blog he did he absolutely trashed San Gimignano in Italy saying it was nothing but a tourist trap. Isn't he the guy who sent hundreds of thousands of people there?

You're right Nigel. In earlier times RS highly recommended San Gim and sent many many people there, it was right up there with RodT in his books. So many of his early back doors have become victims of his enthusiastic recommendations.

As for this thread, I agree with those who like Heidelberg, I loved it too and don't understand his feelings. But, for whatever reason it's not on his 'good' list. That just means fewer blue book carriers thronging there and really ruining it for those of us who like it just as it is. It's a 'real' city vs a 'tourist' must see, much like Ghent or Antwerp are in Belgium as opposed to Bruges.

Add another vote in favor of Heidelberg! I liked it so much the first time I went that I went back a second time. I like Rick's opinions about many places, but not this one.

Nice to read the replies. We will be spending 3 nights in Heidelberg in Sept. We will have just 1 day to explore Heidelberg as we will make a day trip to Neustadt an der Weinstrasse during the wine festival activities. Ms. Jo, I have made a note of the Student Prison and the Aula of the University, thank you. Now Heilbronn, I haven't found much on it but we are using it as a place to stay for a few nights while we spend a day in Stuttgart and 1 day in Schwabisch Hall. Will be interested in you comments on Mainz. We loved it in 2013 and will spend 3 nights there this time. Intend to revisit the Gutenberg Museum ( which is fantastic), see the Chagal windows again and just have some R&R with good German food, beer and wine before heading home

Heilbronn, admitedly, is somewhat less interesting. Mostly post-war. It doesn't help that a large power plant pretty much dominates the cityscape.

Visit nearby Bad Wimpfen, if you get a chance.

Another vote for Heidelberg! It is crowded, however it is so charming. I would have enjoyed spending more time. It is a college town. While walking in town we saw a student wearing our college alumni t-shirt (Cal Poly, SLO). We struck up a conversation with the students. He happened to live near our home town, small world. The students suggested sights to see! The prison was very interesting. They also have a wonderful Christmas shop. Wish I had bought a wooden carved Nutcracker that I saw there! I'll have to return just to purchase it!

Will you folks please quit praising Heidelberg! If Rick gets word of this, he may rethink his earlier view of the place and then praise it to the top of the castle walls, like he does RodT. Then the tourist hordes will flock there (believe me, you do not want to be trampled by flocking hordes) and ruin Heidelberg for the residents, students and tourists who share Mark Twain's appreciation of the place. To anyone still on the fence about this, but not minnfinn: Ignore the praise of Heidelberg that you see in this forum, and stick to Rick's favorites. The residents, students and people who enjoy visiting Heidelberg will thank you for leaving them alone. ; > )

One of the more interesting things about Heidelberg is the diverse mix of tourists that you encounter there. It certainly isn't a majority of Americans, nor Chinese. Lots of Spanish speakers, French, Dutch, British, Australian, Indian, Turkish, Middle Eastern, and yes, many Germans!

I think Heidelberg is a big enough place to absorb a few more RS readers. It's been on the tourist trail since Mark Twain.

Thanks, everyone, for all of the information! I really appreciate your observations and look forward to our (short) trip to Heidelberg. Here's to it not showing up as a recommendation in future books. Prost!

Thanks Tom for recommending Bad Wimpfen. I have checked it out as well as the train schedule from Heilbronn. We are definitely going to spend time there in Sept.

My guess is that during Rick Steves' first visit to Heidelberg in 1973 or whenever, he got annoyed by a rowdy group of American soldiers who disturbed his sleep or something. And first impressions are lasting impressions. I was stationed in Heidelberg from '05 to '08, and I never noticed that many Americans on the Hauptstrasse. Hell, a lot of soldiers would drive a half hour to eat at the TGI Friday's at the Mannheim base, but would never drive ten minutes to eat at any of the great restaurants in the Heidelberg Altstadt. The Hauptstrasse was full of tourists in the summer, but as stated above, they were a diverse lot from near and far.

I was in Heidelberg for a day in 1988. I didn't think it was that bad, but, I haven't had any desire to go back. I wouldn't call it a "must see", but not a total bust, either. The castle is really just a "Schloß" or palace, not a real fortified castle - just a collection of buildings with a partial wall and a few towers. The giant keg (Faß) was interesting to see.

We love Heidelberg! It is fairly close to FRA airport, so we have stayed there to take advantage of airport shuttle from the hotel and it is a convenient base for day trips instead of Frankfurt. Heidelberg is scenic and easy to navigate on foot, which is what we like in a town. We stopped renting cars in Germany a few years ago, so Heidelberg is a perfect stop for us as we fly in/out of FRA, YMMV, of course. On a pretty day, the walk up to the schloss is nice and the view is amazing. It is not a place with tons to do, so plan on some day trips or just move on after a day or so. I think RS needs to go back and revise his assessment.