Ideas/ Itinerary for Christmas trip to northern Bavaria

I'm not particularly interested in Christmas markets, but I understand that the one in Nürnberg is the best one.

Bavaria has perhaps the best system of public transportation in all of Europe. Why rent a car?

Look for train schedules on the German Rail (Bahn) website, here. The exact train schedules beyond the second weekend in December have not yet been published, but they shouldn't change much from today's schedule. For planning, just use the same day of the week late in the current schedule.

Just north of Nuremburg is the wonderful city of Bamberg. If you get tired of fighting the crowds in Nuremburg, there is a smaller, less crowded and more manageable one in Bamberg. Because of the tourist influx due to the Krist Kindl Markt, I'd stay in either Bayreuth or Bamberg.

This region of Bavaria gets a little colder than the German average, and generally sees heavier snowfall. Plus, visiting the countryside can be a very low yield endevour in winter. So, given that calculus, I would use the rail system for this trip. Nürnberg is the regional rail hub, so you may as well stay there.

I'm personally not a big fan of the Nürnberg market, mainly because being the most famous, it attracts crowds that it can barely accomodate. But if you're staying in town, you may as well check it out anyway. Perhaps in the evening when all the day trippers have left.

Most of the city Christmas markets close a few days for the actual holiday, so don't expect to see many of them on this trip.

Bayreuth is a university town, so it might be kind of dead during your visit. Worth a visit if you're a Wagnerite, however.

In my opinon, Coburg has Germany's best castle. Don't miss it.

I've also visited Erfurt. Although it didn't blow me away like it did Rick Steves, it is a very pleasent and attractive city. Very typical for the central region of Germany.

Bamberg was also mentioned, so I'll just say, yes, I agree, try to visit. I'm pretty sure it's on the same rail line as Coburg.

I particularly like the Franconian Switzerland region (despite the name, it looks nothing like Switzerland) to the north east of Nürnberg. It's filled with lovely little towns, castles and interesting rock formations. However, visiting is much more low yield in winter, and you would need a car anyway.

"We will be flying into Nuremburg and staying there for a couple of days to do the Christmas Market (also heard the Regensburg market was worth the trip) What other day trips are worth the while?.. We like the small town history and architecture."

(I haven't been to all the Christmas markets in these places - only Nuremberg's - so these suggestions are based mostly on your interest in historical towns and interesting architecture.)

There are many excellent day trip options from Nuremberg that lie with an hour's train ride. Use either the Bayern Ticket or the VGN Tagesticket (for just 2 adults, valid to towns on the map that follows) to get around.

You can use this rail line map to locate the towns that follow. Regional train lines have an R#... Bayreuth is on the R3 line. Bamberg (R2, UNESCO World Heritage old town) is outstanding in many regards. Amberg (R4) is a handsome little place. Bad Windsheim (R1 to R81) and its open-air museum (which is open ONLY on Dec. 30 during your stay, 10:00 - 16:00) provide a unique look into local history over the last 600 years or so by means of its excellent collection of historical homes and other buildings. Iphofen stepped out of some fairy tale. Würzburg (beyond Kitzingen on R1 but not shown on the map) and Regensburg (also UNESCO WH, beyond Parsberg on R5 but not shown) are larger but also great destinations. All these towns are walkable from the train station.

"Should we base ourselves out of Nuremburg or Bayreuth?"
Nuremberg (note spelling) is the logical train traveler's base. It is also an excellent destination in its own right apart from the Christmas market.

Coburg would require 2 hours from Nuremberg. Erfurt is 3 hours away, more than you'd want to do on a day trip, I think. I share Tom's feelings about Erfurt. If you go, stay, and consider visiting Eisenach (Wartburg Castle,) Bad Langensalza, and Mühlhausen as well.

Thanks for the suggestions guys! If you think of anything else please let me know. All of this is good to know!
Dan

Regensburg is our favorite town for visiting at this time of year, both for its market at the Thurn and Taxis palace and the town itself.

https://mcchelsea.smugmug.com/Advent-2010/Thurn-and-Taxis-Palace-Market/

https://mcchelsea.smugmug.com/Advent-2010/Regensburg/

We also like Rothenburg, especially at this time of year. The main knock on it is the crowds. They are pretty minimal during Advent.

https://mcchelsea.smugmug.com/Advent-2010/Rothenburg-ob-der-Tauber/

Bamberg has a very limited market but the town is always worth a visit.

I was about to recommend the Esslingen am Neckar Medieval Christmas Market in Baden Württemberg, but research has revealed that their final day is 12/22. Traditionally many of the German markets begin in the last few days of November and wrap up around Christmas, give or take.

I will still put in the good word for Esslingen for others reading this thread. Esslingen is a beautiful town with intact medieval sections and a unique market that snakes along multiple streets through the old town. Here is a page describing the medieval market in Esslingen: https://www.esslingen-marketing.de/en/the-esslingen-medieval-market-and-christmas-market.

We also did Nürnberg and it was nice, but prefer the smaller towns. If you want a unique experience then do Nürnberg on opening night when the Chkristkindl (a young woman who reigns for two years) appears. It will be extremely crowded, but that is a unique experience.

An interesting town in Bohemia (Czechia), not far from the German border is Karlovy Vary (Karlsbad). I can't speak to their Christmas celebrations, but it is a beautiful town terraced along a gorge with classic hotels (google Hotel Pupp) from the German era, many baths and spas where you can bath or travel to each and sample the spring water, and take a ride up the lift to high above the town at the Diana lodge. This is worth a day trip from Bavaria if you have a car.

Looks like the first Advent weekend for Weihnachtsmarkt begins Friday 25 Nov 16 this year. You will have two days to visit Weihnachtsmarkt, as most are not open 24 Dec (Heiligabend). So with Nuremburg you probably only have one other choice.

Regensburg Weihnachtsmarkt is my favorite in this region. The Old Stadt is lighted very nice and I would recommend that you visit in the evening. The Weihnachtsmarkt is located in three different Markets squares in the Old Stadt. There is also the Weihnachtsmarkt in the Thurn und Taxis Schloss. You have to pay to enter Thurn und Taxis and it can get very crowded. The Regensburg Weihnachtsmarkt is open every night. Many great cafes, bars and restaurants, more than you'll find in Nuremburg Old Stadt. Many sights, churches etc, to see. They eat sweet mustard on their Bratwurst here.

We go to Bayreuth for the Weihnachtsmarkt every year for the first Advent, because it is so close. The first Glühwein of the season. It is is open every night too. Around the The Old Stadt in Bayreuth there are sights to see and many nice cafes and restaurants. As mentioned it is a University town.

The Fortress in Colburg is impressive. The Weihnachtsmarkt is small and I think open only two Advent weekends. Not much going on for cafes, bars etc.

I have never been to Erfurt (Thüringen, Old East), but have heard it has a very nice Weihnachtsmarkt too. Lots of recommendations in Rick's blog too.

I would guess basing out of Nuremburg gives you better train connections.

I would stick to the larger Cities for Silvester/New Years. I was in Regensburg one year for New Years and really enjoyed it. Finding a nice place with entertainment and dinner without reservations could be difficult. Germans can go crazy with Fireworks and it is a sight to see. You would be surprised how quickly the Weihnachtsmarkt come down once the season is finished. They are put away by New Years.

If you go the car route, I would think your Son can point out some local sites to see including the Bath towns in the Czech Republic. Maybe visit a Zoigl Stuben (Community Brewery, Pub) in northern Oberpfalz for a real local experiance. http://www.oberpfaelzerwald.de/data/mediadb/cms_mime/%7Bbbbc673a-fa50-9024-e6c4-52a567552d58%7D.pdf