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Help - Spring trip to Hamburg and vicinity

I would greatly appreciate help for a trip next May to Germany My husband doesn’t like to fly so we are planning to take a trans-Atlantic ship to Hamburg and can be in Europe for three weeks (when we return to the US from Southampton). . We are in our 70s and prefer leisurely travel, with time to enjoy wherever we are, love history and museums and nice hotels. . We have traveled extensively through Europe and are looking for places that are unique to the area . We will be using public transportation and prefer to stay in one place for a few days rather than changing every night or so.

Here is a very rough idea of what we are planning —

Hamburg 7 days The Madison? The Marriott (we have points)? Steigenberger?
Days 1 - 4 Arrive in Hamburg. Visit the Ballinstadt Immigration Museum, Bergedorf Castle.Bunkermuseum, Hamburg dungeon, Hamburg Museum (under renovation - not sure if it will be open), International Maritime Museum, Kunsthalle, Museum für Küntz und Gewerbe, St Michael's Church, St. Nikolai, U-Bootmuseum, Rathaus

Days 5-7 Day Trips from Hamburg -
Trains to Schloss) Ahrensburg, Lüneburg, Celle

Day 8-10 4 days Train to Schleswig OR Eutin for some quieter down time -
Schleswig Romantik Hotel Waldschlösschen,?
Visit Viking Museum Schleswig-Holstein State Museums, Gottorf Castle, Danevirke Museum-

Eutin - Hotel SeeLoge Eutin?
Visit castle and gardens, lake

Day 11-15 7 days Lubeck
Visit Hanseatic museum, Willy Brandt house museum,Holstentor, Cathedral, Old Town, Salt Storehouses, Buddenbrookhaus (if open - under renovation), Hospital of the Holy Spirit, House of the Seamen’s Guild, Museum Behnhaus Drägerhaus, Rathaus. St. Annen Museum:

Day 16-17 Lubeck Day Trips
Travemünde, Schwerin

Day 17 Now where? Other places in Geermany? Berlin? Copenhagen?
Note - we would need to be near an airport to fly to Southampton/UK.

Please help -

Is the amount of time for each place about right? We have time to spare so we could easily expand or contract.
I’m struggling with where we will stay - really don’t want to b e in Hamburg for so long but it looks like the center for places we might like to go, rather like spokes on a wheel. Would there be a better base?
I have a lot of places to go in Hamburg - too many. What would you suggest we drop - or should I add more time here?
We do love castles but I realize that there are several on our list. Would you suggest some over others?

Day trips - Are each of these towns worth a day trip? Are they so similar that one would be picked over another? Others we should consider?
to Schleswig or Eutin for a change and for some down time? What do you think? A good move? Which one or someplace e else? We would like to get out of the big city.
In Schlesweg, Is Haithabu really interesting? (I’ve not added it because
we’ve been to a number of ‘re-creations’ and were not impressed).
8. Are these good choices? Would you recommend others?
9. Nice hotels? Convenient to sights? Other options?

Thank you so much!!

Posted by
2150 posts

As someone who also has points and permanent status with Marriott i always look at those as an option. Since I've been back in Germany (two + years this time) Steigenburger has also become a favorite. I've not stayed in the Hamburg one, but have used the ones in Bad Homburg and Konstanz. Very nice; better than the Marriott's usually are.

Add the St Pauli Bunker to your list of places to see in Hamburg.. It's one of three remaining WWII German Flak towers, and an amazing piece of work. It was built in 6 months, and they have "repurposed" it because it would just be too much to tear down. (The others are in Vienna, now an aquarium, and Berlin, semi destroyed and home to underground tours.)

Posted by
35 posts

If you’re into that even remotely, try out the Wattenmeer (Wadden sea) and possibly the North Frisian islands. It is quite unique - the whole sea becomes land twice a day for miles and miles, so you can even walk between islands.

Posted by
1755 posts

Love your trip - I did much the same 2023. My preferences for leisure travel and longer stays at one spot are the same as yours.

Hamburg Marriott - we stayed there multiple nights. Fine hotel, close to Botanic Gardens. I wouldn't say better or worse than other Marriotts world-wide. There was a convention when we were there - no problems, even breakfast time had enough room for all. I would stay again. Caveat - I am not a Rick Steves, must-find-a-family-run-hotel traveler - been there, done that, too uneven for me. I tend to stay on points at Marriott, Hilton, higher level Accor, etc. I do always check the current reviews of any hotel I'm about to book even if I've stayed previously.

Hamburg Sites that we visited - Caveat - Museum lover, art lover, history lover:

International Maritime Museum - surprised that this ws a favoriete - I had avoided in past trips. We spent at least 2 hours and I could have spent longer.
Kunsthalle - fabulous
Museum für Küntz und Gewerbe - another fabulous
Ballinstadt Immigration Museum - I was quite disappointed when I had been expecting to enjoy it. The first building was interesting, but as the museum progresses it becomes less specific about Hamburg Immigration and is a museum of Immigration/Emmigration world-wide. Something nice for late grade-schoolers, but not at an adult level of consideration or exhibition, in my opinion.
Hamburg Museum (was open on a previous visit) - very good - definitely consider if it is open
churches - need not take a lot of time

Did not visit your other sites - Is the Hamburg Dungeon really something other than a tourist trip - I don't mean to be offensive, but that was my impression - I don't know and could be dead wrong(!) as we didn't go.
I would recommend the Miniature Wonderland train museum - easily 2 -3 or more hours, amazing. Buy tickets well in advance. https://www.miniatur-wunderland.com

Also, walk the old warehouse area.

Schleswig -
Museum and castle - Fabulous, all adjacent easy to visit
Have a walk in the Holm area
Will you have a car? We did for this area. It may be difficult to get to Danevirke Museum. Not sure as we had a car, I am not checking the website for info which is probably there.

Lubeck-
Yes to all! Loved the city and its offerings.

Travemunde - We drove through and walked the beach. This was a March trip - no one else, pleasant Didn't explore beyond that

Schwerin - historic city center, State Museum if re-opened is fabulous, Schwerin Castle - very good (and I've visited a lot of castles....)

I loved my visits to this area! If you consider a car, I found the driving very easy. We rented out of Hamburg Airport to explore Lubeck from where we day tripped to Schwerin, then on to Schleswig area with day trip to Kiel. I do understand not wanting to rent or drive - my trips the last few years and as I foresee going forward are/will be carless. I mention because this area seemed so very easy to drive.

One more thought (which you don't need!!!) - last trip we took a day train trip from Hamburg to Bremen. Good art museum, some interesting streetscapes and older city areas. But, probably not necessary as Hamburg itself has much to offer!!

Posted by
1755 posts

Re Haithabu

We had a car so could easily drive. We stopped first to visit the Dannewerk which is interesting if one understands the background.

Moving on to the reconstruction at Haithabu, we arrived shortly after opening hours to see a group of folks waiting outside the locked gate. No sign of employees. We waited 15 - 20 minutes, nothing. Disgusted, we left. Walking back to the car, we encountered one of the employees in costume apparently arriving 30 minutes late to open the gates.

Since we didn't go in as the opening was so late, I can't comment on the experience. From what I could see at the gate, the area was smaller than I expected.

Posted by
1755 posts

My thoughts on post - Hamburg/Schleswig Holstein:

1) The explorations you've already noted could be expanded for a more leisurely time without moving on to Copenhagen or Berlin. Have you had a look at DeutscheBahn to check on connections and time involved with the itinerary above? I find that that train travel does sometimes impact my itinerary and the length of time I allocate to any one city/stop. Sometimes the trains don't run as I want(!) so I need to add an overnight. https://int.bahn.de/en

2) We did the Hamburg to Copenhagen train - it also runs through Schleswig. Copenhagen is a great city for leisurely travel - much to see in city center and some very easy day trips. Train also goes through Odense, Denmark. That could be a stop off en route to Copenhagen with Hans Christian Andersen sites, historic city center, good museums.

3) Berlin - lots to see in this city. Another spot for a leisurely, multi-day stay.

Copenhagen and Berlin are very different. - I think it is just up to the traveler what seems of most interest. You can't lose.

Posted by
314 posts

Many, many thanks for so many helpful suggestions! Planning is one of my favorite things and I'm most grateful for your help. In going thru the comments, I think we will simply add a few more days in the north - been to Berlin and Copenhagen, several times, and enjoyed them both but it seems that there is much to offer in Germany - no need for a filler!

Posted by
2208 posts

I hope you get to Lüneburg. We thought it was one of the prettiest towns we’ve ever visited. An easy train ride from Hamburg. Lovely little town for wandering. My memory is awful but something makes me think we were advised there were two stations in this little town, perhaps next to each other? We made it OK so anybody can. Safe travels and enjoy your transatlantic…we’ve taken several and like them a lot. The journey down…or is it up?… the Elbe into Hamburg is rather scenic in itself, or so we thought, so be up on deck if you arrive early to enjoy it.

Posted by
289 posts

Another no longer Hidden but gem at the Baltic Coast near Travemünde/Lübeck 20km/35km

https://www.schwansee.de/hotel.html

Quite spot in springtime by the sea when we were there
Had Cup of Coffee and a piece of cake in the Manor House Restaurant
Walked the alley down to the natural beach and had a nice afternoon by sea

Remote spot nice for a day to relax

We took our bikes for a 10km ride east along the Baltic Coast from Travemünde-Priwall to Schlossgut Schwansee
waymarked Biking Route "Ostseeradweg" 1hr

Posted by
314 posts

Oh my goodness - this hotel looks lovely but is it accessible by public transport or taxi from the station? We're not planning to rent a car this trip, which limits us.

Posted by
15518 posts

I am in the same group as you, mid-70s, and I heartily suggest Eutin/Holstein , been there several times, the last 2016 and also Schwerin of the former Mecklenburg-Schwerin.

Not only is the Schloss (chateau) is the primary attraction , the entire Zentrum and Altstadt is well worth your time in exploring if you want more that a superficial view of the city as a cultural and historical site.

Eutin...see the Museum/House of Carl Maria von Weber, Beethoven's contemporary, my first destination in Eutin 50 years ago. The Schloss is important, in the gardens is the German WW1 military memorial. The tourist office in Eutin is located in the Zentrum.

If esoteric Prussian history is of interest to you, since you're in Hamburg anyway, take the S-3 from Hamburg Hbf to Pinneberg , walk the 35 mins. or so to the "Samland Museum," the focus of which on a specific geographic region in the former East Prussia. I saw it 1989.

There is more sites you can get to taking the S-Bahn from Hamburg Hbf if historical sites related to the same historical subject are your focus.

Posted by
289 posts

@crooney You def need a car to get there from Lübeck or
two bikes when you ar fit enough to go the 10km by bike to Schwansee from Travemünde on the Ostseeradweg( Baltic bicycle way) along the beach That would be a full day out

So sorry guess you have to look for a different place then

Posted by
314 posts

Fred, it was serendipity that you enthused over Eutin because I've been debating simply visiting in a day trip from Lubeck, rather than 2 overnights. Now, I think we will stay. And, thank you for suggesting the history museum - that's now been added to our Hamburg day trips! We LOVE history, all history and try to visit both the well-known and obscure (which are often the most interesting). So nice to know that others our stage are still wandering about!!

Posted by
314 posts

Fred, just to follow up - I've researched the Pinneberg Museum and it does look fascinating - but everything I've found is in German. Yes, my grandparents were German but I don't speak a word (well, maybe some - enough to order dinner). Are exhibits in English or is there an English guide? Thank you again.

Posted by
15518 posts

@ crooney...It sounds as though history is very important to you. On the Samland Museum in Pinneberg, I went there in 1989. Then it was all in German, the museum curator spoke to me in German as I did automatically to her, all written explanations were in German. I read the language generally with no problems, grammatically and vocab-wise. Now that was back then.

I have not been back since, who knows whether any other languages such as English may have been added in the 21st century.

Generally, I have seen that the more esoteric the museum on German history or on a geographic region, it's only going to be only in German, I saw that in 2023 in Ettingen/Bayern, which if you're interested in seeing that in Pinneberg, you would be interested in Ettingen.

Posted by
15518 posts

part 2 here

@crooney...Since you're in the Hamburg and Lübeck anyway, two more esoteric museums on Prussian-German history can be visited. The first is accessible by taking the S-Bahn from Hamburg Hbf to Friedrichsruh im Sachsenwald , easy to get , signs point the way from the S-Bahn stop, very walkable.

This is the Bismarck Museum.

The other museum is located in Lüneburg, the East Prussian Museum on Ritterstraße, (Ostpreußisches Landesmueum) located in the Zentrum, walkable from the train station to the city center. Over the years this museum has expanded in scope topic-wise and size.

This museum is heavy-duty and very esoteric . Chances are than audio phones with English could be available, I don't know, I never use them anyway.

I would suggest checking with the Tourist Office in Eutin, I found the primary attractions in addition to exploring the Zentrum are the Schloss, the cathedral that escaped the war damage, and Carl Maria von Weber's House/Museum, very enlightening if you're interested in German music in the Romantic Age, Weber is a central figure in that movement.,

Posted by
10182 posts

As for flights to Southampton, the nearest are from Amsterdam.

Ryanair also fly to Bournemouth from Wroclaw and Krakow (Poland)- taxi to Bournemouth station for trains to Southampton.

Otherwise it is easyjet from Berlin to Bristol (for Bath and/or direct trains to Southampton from Bristol Temple Meads), Heathrow (direct National Express bus or train via the Woking or Basingstoke bus links) or Gatwick (direct National Express bus or train with 1 change).

Posted by
35 posts

Fully second Fred as to the language: The more esoteric it gets, the less likely English will be available in the exhibition.

That being said: If you‘re interested in a museum but unsure, just write an email and ask. Even if the exhibition is not in English, the staff will most likely know enough of it to answer such a question - English has been compulsory in schools for about 60ish years now (35 in the former GDR) so almost anybody in the workforce should have some basic grasp of it.

Posted by
1755 posts

English translations are always welcome to me(!), but as another lover of “esoteric” history museums, I have found the translate option on IPhone photos very useful. I used extensively in Japan and Korea. The app managed those scripts quite well. It does slow down a museum visit a bit, but I didn’t feel I missed out totally on context and description.

Just a thought…. I don’t know android phone options or IPad.

Posted by
314 posts

Fred, Part 2 looks fascinating and, as you say, Google translate is a wonderful resource! I will be reading German history in the coming months and am sure that we will be able to get a great deal out of the more 'esoteric';. Thank you!!

Posted by
314 posts

Just a note on flights - we would return to Hamburg art the end of our land travels and I've found many flights from Hamburg-London in May - no problem at all. In the past, we've simply used a car service from the London airports to Southampton (Gunwharf Travel in Southampton) and been very pleased - a bit expensive but very reliable.

Posted by
15518 posts

Hi,

The Museum covers the area between the Vistula and the Memel (zwischen Weichsel und Memel) as one its brochures pointed out, including the most northeastern strip known formerly as Memelland and the city of Memel, now Klaipeda, Lithuania. You can get to Klaipeda/Memel by ferry from Germany, a 26 hour ride from Kiel.

I don't know about air flights, I don't use the air option anyway.

Years ago, 2010?, the Museum held a special summer exhibition on Memelland . I missed it.

Posted by
15518 posts

@ crooney....You have , as planned, day 17 earmarked for a possible outing to Schwerin. I would heartily suggest that you do that trip to Schwerin, set aside an entire afternoon for that in order to do at a more leisurely pace some real deep exploring of the city on foot. Numerous cafes in the Zentrum.

Logistically, a snap, from Hamburg Hbf less than one hour, a direct shot, Twice as long from Berlin or more.

In Schwerin you'll see and gain an unique insight into a different part of Germany, vis-a-vis the architecture, the city contour in the Zentrum and Altstadt, the lovely Schloß Schwerin of Mecklenburg-Schwerin, the cathedrals, etc.

Above all, you'll have a different feel, that subjective factor, in Schwerin. I have been in and visited at length or superficially numerous towns and cities in eastern Germany.(both famous and back-water places) ....Weimar, Potsdam, Neuruppin, Neustrelitz, Leipzig, Prenzlau in the Uckermark area, Magdeburg, Frankfurt an der Oder, Dresden, Meissen , Neuhardenberg, Jena, etc.

Next to Dresden the city of Schwerin stands out as stunning and enchanting along with that subjective feel of the city as to its difference.

Historically, Schwerin and Eutin/Holstein have one common feature quite noticeable, ie, a large and tall memorial to the War of 1870 (as the French call it), ie the Franco-Prussian War in English. (So does Magdeburg). In Schwerin that is located in front of the Schloss, Euttin in the town square as you enter the Zentrum.

Posted by
314 posts

I truly wish that we were leaving tomorrow - so many wonderful suggestions and enticing places! Thank you!!

Posted by
1755 posts

I have to chime in and second the Schwerin recommendation. I just checked - it looks as if the State Museum (art) will be open again in about 3 months. If you enjoy art, this is a wonderful collection. Well worth a visit as well as all the other sites enumerated by Fred above.

Posted by
941 posts

A bit too much for one trip, but nevertheless (and perhaps for next time), I'd like to speak up for Bremen. And especially not just the city of Bremen, but also Bremerhaven, located on the North Sea, about 40 minutes away by train from Bremen central station. A large harbor and relatively modern architecture, but the fantastic Emigration Museum is a must-see, in my opinion.

https://www.dah-bremerhaven.de/en

Posted by
314 posts

Mignon, I debated Bremen/Bremerhaven but , apart from the Emigration Museum (and we've been to EPIC in Dublin and the Immigration Museum in NYC), did not see that it would be unique to Germany. Are there other sites that would be compelling? Right now, we have possible day trips to Ahrensburg (castle), Celle (castle), Friedrichsruh im Sachsenwald (Bismarck Museum), Lüneburg (lovely and Salt Museum), and Pinneburg (Samland Museum). Clearly, we will need to make some decision as we won't have time to see them all - so much to see!!

Posted by
941 posts

My reason for visiting Bremerhaven would be the museum and the modern architecture. I enjoy photographing architecture. But honestly, especially in your case, it's not that exciting then. Bremen, yes, but going the extra mile to Bremerhaven, not so much.

Posted by
314 posts

Thank you! Winnowing down places to go is getting harder and harder - I do wonder if we will be 'castled out' by the end so it's nice to have options. Bremen may be added!!

Posted by
941 posts

It's actually a nice problem to have so much choice. There's so much to see in northern Germany, and unfortunately, it remains hidden from many tourists from abroad. That's why choosing is really difficult. I love vacationing on the Baltic Sea and have a favorite spot (Ahrenshoop on the Fischland-Darß-Zingst peninsula), but there are so many other regions/cities/places where I either haven't been or where I'd like to spend more time.

Posted by
314 posts

I couldn't agree more! It's been great fun researching where to go and what to do - and this forum has been an amazing resource.

Posted by
15518 posts

"There's so much to see in Northern Germany...." Ain't that the truth !

I would say based on totally subjective observations from my days spent there that Northern Germany still does receive more foreign tourists than does eastern Germany., maybe with Dresden in the lead.

Foreign tourists are simply not going to Weimar, Greifswald, Halle, Magdeburg, Jena, Werder an der Havel, Leipzig , Ludwigslust, Strasund or even Schwerin, even though on my day trip from Hamburg spent in lovely Schwerin I did see a few Asians , (they were Japanese, individual parties, not groups) visiting the Schloss area...bravo !

Posted by
941 posts

I know what you mean, Fred, with the reference to the East, and you're absolutely right. However, the Luther cities and Leipzig are also enjoying increasing popularity.

If you ask a smart AI how to divide Germany, it would be as follows:
North: Schleswig-Holstein, Hamburg, Bremen, Lower Saxony, Mecklenburg-Western Pomerania.
East: Brandenburg, Berlin, Saxony, Saxony-Anhalt, Thuringia.
South: Bavaria, Baden-Württemberg.
West: North Rhine-Westphalia, Hesse, Rhineland-Palatinate, Saarland.
But, however, this classification is a simplified representation and serves as a general guide.
So when I talk about Northern Germany, I mean it exactly as written above :-)