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Hamburg or....?

Hi all!!

We are thinking of a trip for 2024 early June. We have been to Europe quite a few times so looking for some new places. We are wanting to go from Köln to Copenhagen... looking for somewhere in between for a few nights. What do you think of Hamburg? Or somewhere else sort of on the way? We could go to Berlin but we have been there so hoping to try a new place. This will be about mid-trip so a relaxing place would be good - but could also be more sightseeing. We aren't super outdoorsy, but do like some nature. We like drinking beer. :) Museums and historical sights too, as well as just general wandering around in cute places. Thanks for any ideas!

Kim

Posted by
6649 posts

"...a relaxing place would be good - but could also be more sightseeing."

Hamburg is Germany's 2nd largest city, and while there's a good bit of bustle there, I found the atmosphere enjoyable. It could make sense on its own, perhaps... have a look at the sightseeing options if you haven't already to see what appeals to you. With a few days, you could play it by ear. There are some nice day trips you could make if you decide you've seen enough of Hamburg.

Lüneburg is one of those day trips:

Day trip guide: https://lifeslittleadventures.typepad.com/lifes_little_adventures/2009/09/l%C3%BCneburg-germany.html

Green spots in Lüneburg: https://www.lueneburg.info/eng-nature-in-town

Lübeck and Bremen might suit you and are easy outings from a Hamburg base.

Posted by
14521 posts

Between Cologne and Kopenhagen Hamburg is a very good choice. It is 2nd largest city in Germany next to Berlin in pop. and the cultural center of North Germany. Now, if the choice is between Cologne or Berlin, then Berlin most definitely.

Re: the relaxing factor, choosing Berlin means usually seeing Potsdam, on your own or by guided tour. The trams from Berlin central station go to Potsdam, 3 lines do this, just look for Potsdam Hbf as the terminus.

If you prefer to stay in the greater Hamburg area, or further north in Schleswig-Holstein looking a relaxing site, numerous small towns fit the bill, south and north of Hamburg. I would suggest based on those I am familiar with or have visited a few or numerous times: Eutin/Holstein, Lüneburg, Lauenburg an der Elbe. Schleswig, Ploen,

On the beer aspect: Lüneburg has its own brewery and beer garden located right by the famous history museum.

Posted by
2257 posts

Hamburg is a good idea, offering also enough for 2-3 days; depending on your interest. Coffee lovers will have the chance to taste different roasters.

Besides mentioned Lübeck and Bremen incl. Bremerhaven) also Flensburg including visiting one of Germany's most famous breweries. On request they offer also tours in English language.

On the way between Hamburg and Flensburg are viking museum Haithabu and Gottorf Castle.

In Denmark you can start Jutland with Ribe - a very old town. Aarhus with old town museum and also very new architecture attractions are worth a visit. There also a lot more danish attractions on the way then to Copenhagen.

Posted by
14521 posts

One logistical advantage staying in Hamburg is that it puts you on the direct lateral train route to Schwerin, that famous and lovely chateau (Schloss) in the former Mecklenburg-Schwerin, easily doable as a day excursion. Much easier to get to Schwerin from Hamburg than to reach it from Berlin .

Posted by
8946 posts

Hamburg would be a great place to go, but if you want something a bit smaller and more relaxing, try Potsdam. Certainly enough to see there over 2 days, with charming streets for strolling and the huge park/estate. I really like the Dutch Quarter. Lovely architecture, lots of small stores, cafes and restaurants.

Posted by
142 posts

I realize I’m going against the grain here but I thought Hamburg was a disappointment.

It is a large, busy city. I would not characterize it as relaxing. There is a big nightlife scene which I’ll just summarize as chaotic. Maybe some bad luck on our part but we ran into some rather rough-edged crowds on a night out.

Although I’ve not been, if I was planning your trip I’d look at Aarhus as another commenter mentioned. I found Denmark to be more my vibe in general compared to Hamburg.

Posted by
776 posts

I have stopped in Hamburg twice now as you are considering.

I’m sorry, and surprised, that the above poster found Hamburg disappointing. As museum lovers, we were spoiled for choice! Take a look at Museum für Kunst und Gewerbe for decorative arts and culture broadly, the very fine Kunsthalle, Deichtorhallen contemporary international art and photography. Moving away from art - International Maritime Museum which I visited at my companion’s insistence and had to be dragged out of, Miniature Wunderland - unique and amazing, Ballinstadt immigration museum, if a music lover - the Composers Quarter ( Komponistenquartier). I’m probably missing some.

Easy city to walk. Stroll the canals, Alster Lake, and Unesco warehouse area, courthouse, city center. Bigger city than places like Lubeck, but in both trips (one completed only a couple weeks ago) I found the city charming and as relaxing as I wanted. And, there was an international triathalon going on city center when I was just there!

I’m not a night life person, so can’t comment. I have been told that Hamburg is quite popular for nightlife in the Reeperbahn area for those from the UK and other far flung places, but I have avoided that area of town as it isn’t my interest. I wouldn’t doubt the above poster’s experience.

Easy train (or airport) connection on to Copenhagen. Other suggestions above are good also, but train connections may not be as convenient.

Rick doesn’t consider Schleswig Holstein in his guides, so if you want to consider other areas in that region north of Hamburg, a different guide is needed. The city of Schleswig has a very interesting museum and an interesting old fishing quarter. IC train from Hamburg to Copenhagen runs through there.

Posted by
6415 posts

I agree that Hamburg is a great place to stop, it is an underrated city in many ways and well worth a few days.

Posted by
6353 posts

I loved Hamburg and recommend it highly! It's a beautiful and very cool city with so much to see and do. As ORDTraveler said, the Museum für Kunst und Gewerbe is fantastic! I could have easily spent all day there. And btw, they have a wonderful cafe inside with excellent food. I highly recommend it - you can even enjoy a glass of wine while you eat.

And walking through all the canal streets, seeing the harbor and the gorgeous architecture, like the Elbphilharmonie concert hall, is such a great experience. Don't miss Diechstraße (Dieche Street). This is a row of gabled houses that were the homes of 17th and 18th century merchants. Most of the houses in the Altstadt burned down in a terrible fire in 1842, which destroyed over 1700 homes and killed 51 people. This area was one of the few that was saved.

Other beautiful buildings include Saint Nikolai Memorial, where you can go to up to the tower and overlook the city. Also, the Rathaus, which is probably the largest town hall I have ever seen. The building is extremely ornate but very beautiful. It was built in the late 1800s and houses the government of Hamburg, including the mayor, parliament and the Senate. There are currently 647 rooms and counting (every once in a while they find a room that no one knows about). :)

Posted by
776 posts

I'm so glad Mardee recommended all the above places that I left out of my post, primarily a museum survey! I've visited all and highly recommend as well!

The cafeteria Mardee mentions is a real treat along with the entire Museum für Kunst und Gewerbe - Mardee, I'm glad to hear that someone else enjoyed it as much as we did!!

Posted by
6353 posts

ORDTraveler, I loved that museum - and the cafeteria! In fact, I was surprised that the food was so good - you usually don't find that in museum restaurants, but I was really impressed. And very healthy offerings as well. I still remember the dessert I had; a cheesecake made with lemon, citron and quark - SO good!

Posted by
87 posts

Hamburg is great! We took a tour around the lake and saw some gorgeous homes. Took a separate tour on the river and got up close to the large container shipping area and through the canals that have converted warehouses to residences. I liked the atmosphere!

Posted by
32795 posts

Mentioned up thread by ORDtraveler is Miniatur Wunderland - well worth the trip on its own. You could easily spend a whole day there and not see the whole thing.

https://www.miniatur-wunderland.com/

It is however full except some 7:30am slots for several weeks. It is, deservedly, popular.

Posted by
571 posts

I’ve got Hamburg in my sights as well. I read on another site that big residential sections in the west of the city escaped much of the war bombing and have beautiful late 19th century architecture.

Posted by
457 posts

Well, I might be biased, but Hamburg is unbelievably special.

You say you like drinking beer--so visit the Ratsherrn, take the brewery tour, and enjoy Sternschanze and that scene. Or drink a Störtebeker beer inside the Elphi. But really, any beer is better when you are drinking it on the waterfront at Strandperle or Strand Pauli or just along the Landungsbrücken. Or try Überquell brewery near the Fischmarkt. And if you haven't had the beer-and-live-music-for-breakfast experience, have you really lived? For that, visit the Sunday morning Fischmarkt. Oh, but you want more green spaces? Head to the beautiful Blankenese Treppenviertel and down to the beach and shipwrecks there to have a beer. Or maybe head to the Spanische Treppe for a glass of wine instead, then rent an SUP and explore the canals of the Alster. Or a beer and a canoe at Bobby Reich. Or, if you want to get a bit more off the beaten path, go to the Boberger Sand Dunes and have a beer there!

People have mentioned a number of the good museums here in Hamburg, but none have mentioned the Museum of Hamburg History. Learn about the great fire, see the growth from Viking target to Hanseatic trading port to modern shipping hub. And see the alleged skull of pirate Klaus Störtebeker, for whom the above mentioned local beer is named--and find out why he haunts our city! You can also visit the Ballinstadt Emigration Museum and learn about those who passed through here on their way to somewhere else.

Site seeing? Our Elphi costs nothing to visit the observation deck, and it is amazing. You can reach it by ferry after taking the harbor tour and seeing the port as well as the Speicherstadt brickwork buildings. The bombed out Nikolai church (with basement museum on the firebombing of Hamburg) or the cute and not well known Krameramtstuben behind the Michel (St. Michaelis) are also worth visits for many. Actually, when it comes to churches, Hamburg is home to four of the world's top 20 tallest!

But don't forget the Reeperbahn! While it is known for being "seedy," and parts of it are, it is a place worth looking at more closely. The Nobistor marker may be right outside a sex shop, but it marked the border between Hamburg and Altona--and anyone who knows their Catholic-Protestant history knows why this is significant. The Beatles Platz at the start of Große Freiheit ("great freedom") street is cool enough, but far better is to walk down to the Catholic church. You see, non-Lutherans were forbidden to practice in Hamburg, but Altona, which at that time was part of the Duchy of Holstein, had religious freedom. So "great freedom" refers not to sexual freedom, as many assume based on the clubs, but to religious freedom. In fact, taking a Reeperbahn tour is worthwhile not just for the history, but also because the character and soul of the neighborhood is really incredible if one looks underneath the layer of grit.

Nature? One of the main parks in the city is Planten un Blomen, with amazing flower gardens and the Wasserlichtkonzerte https://www.hamburgausflug.de/wasserlichtkonzerte/ , a water and light show in the fountains at night in the summer. Another is the Stadtpark, where you can grill and play and relax with the locals near the Planetarium or catch a concert at the open air venue. And the Altonaer Volkspark with its rose garden, dahlia garden and the adjacent Ohlsdorf cemetary (worth a visit--really! https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ohlsdorf_Cemetery ) is another great place to drink a beer. The Wildgehege Klövensteen is free and beautiful, but Schwarze Berge is even better! It's a zoo of regional animals, right next door is the Kiekeberg museum--an open-air museum of what life was like in northern Germany in the past. I love this museum!! https://www.kiekeberg-museum.de/en/

More to follow.

Posted by
457 posts

Some people do the Airbus museum, and for total junkies it might be fun, but we were less impressed. Far better to see if you can visit the beautiful Altes Land and the village of Jork and nearby Estebrügge or to wander the beach from Blankenese (see the shipwrecks) to Rissen / Wittenbergen. Another "museum" is the concentration camp Neuengamme. I hesitate to call it a museum, but it is more than a memorial.

Ferries are the free way to see the city by water, by the way. You can ride them with a HVV day ticket. Grab an ice cream and visit the Museumshafen Övelgönne https://www.museumshafen-oevelgoenne.de/ to see the old ships, wander around the Hafencity development https://www.hafencity.com/en and see the Oberhafen-Kantine https://oberhafenkantine-hamburg.de/ for some local fare at the alleged birthplace of the hamburger. Small castles in Bergedorf https://www.bergedorfer-museumslandschaft.de/ and Ahrensburg https://www.schloss-ahrensburg.de/ are easy to reach with public transport as well.

People have already recommended towns like Lüneburg (and I cannot disagree--by the way, if you are at all a horse person and your visit coincides, the Luhmühlen event is one of only 7 of its kind in the world. https://tgl.luhmuehlen.de/en ). Stade and Wedel are cute and nearby. A bit further afield is a personal favourite--Glückstadt--which also has its big festival in June.

People have mentioned a few other places--Haithabu, for example. But also the Wattenmeer and its beauty, the Kiel canal, Lübeck, and -- well, I could just keep going. The point is that I LOVE Hamburg and am happy to make sure you get what you want out of this city. This is a great place to live, and if you visit, you can get a taste of what the lucky among us get daily. ;)

Posted by
776 posts

We loved Museum of Hamburg History as HowlinMad suggests on our first visit. It is undergoing rehab at the present with much closed so we didn't stop this trip. OP, this is one to add to your list if it is again open for your visit.

And, Mardee, the Museum für Kunst und Gewerbe is one of my all time favorite museums of anywhere. My husband kept commenting about it also which doesn't typically happen.

Posted by
993 posts

WOW thank you everyone for all of this great advice!!! I am going to copy it and save it for our planning! :). Thank you all so much for taking the time to respond! :)

Kim