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Germany's Christmas markets

Hi, My family will be in Germany in December to spend Christmas with our daughter who will be studying abroad in Lubeck. We are pressed for time as we cannot get there any sooner than Dec. 15th, due to our other daughter's college finals. I definitely want to get to Nuremberg's Christmas market (I've heard it's the most authentic and doesn't sell any imports) but am torn between Stuttgart's Christmas market and Dresden's. We are heading to Berlin for their markets (and to see Berlin) before picking up my daughter in Lubeck. Stuttgart is closer to Frankfurt (where we are arriving at 1:20pm so it's a bit closer to get to before it's fully dark - hopefully). But Dresden is less out of the way for the rest of the trip (Frankfurt to Nuremberg to Dresden to Berlin). I have researched and researched and cannot decide which city and Christmas market to go to: Stuttgart or Dresden. Beyond the Christmas markets, we don't have much time for exploring those two cities, so it's the charm of the markets themselves I'm interested in. Has anyone been to both or at least one? Please any input helps! Just to put a wrench in it all, Rothenburg is actually even better (closer to our arrival and not out of the way to Nuremberg), but it seems to be a very small Christmas market and I've ruled it out because of this (I know the city is beautiful as my husband and I have been there, but we are going for the markets this time). So, unless you can tell me it's fantastic and better than the larger Christmas markets in Stuttgart or Dresden, I'll keep it ruled out. Thanks everyone! Yes, it's a LOT, but we really want to experience as many Christmas markets as possible!

Posted by
537 posts

How much time do you have? Based on a Dec 15 arrival, your would have a max of 9 days? I was just there a few months ago and home based in Nuremberg. I went to 6 different markets (Frankfurt, Mainz, Rothenberg, Regensberg, Bamburg and Nuremberg). Of those, Nuremberg was our least favorite. I have been to Dresden and Berlin at other times of the year and they are great towns to explore. In my opinion, your might be traveling too much to really enjoy the markets. Unless if you are flying home from Berlin, I would suggest staying closer to Frankfurt and not go to Dresden and Berlin. If you are flying home from Berlin then just hop on the Christmas market websites and explore so you can make informed decisions. Good luck!!

Posted by
24 posts

Thanks. Just curious, what made the Nuremberg market your least favorite? As for time, I'm trying to work it all out but we are used to doing a lot in a little time. I may have to adjust, though. Berlin is on our list because we have to pick up our daughter in Lubeck and it is a close city that we'd like to explore (and not just for the markets). We are also heading to relatives in Luxembourg for the holidays so staying in one place is not really an option!

Posted by
930 posts

We go over every year for the Xmas Markets - we have seen lots of ones in France, Austria, Switzerland and Germany. We were just there a couple months ago. Nuremberg is one of our all time favorites for food and products. If you need a good hotel, we love Hotel Victoria. There are 3 great cathedrals that are a 'do not miss' very close to the Market. They also have wonderful concerts at the market in front of the Cathedral - esp gorgeous at night when all the lights are on. The old wood bridges are worth walking across during the day. Don't miss the fried potatoes with herbed sour cream and apple sauce and the Gluwein that they light on fire and melt the sugar cube in.

Unfortunately, I can't speak for the others you mention, I was not overly impressed with the Frankfurt market, but I have heard it is better. We do like the one in Passau a lot, and we love the town. Regensberg is only worth it if you go the the Private Thurn & Taxis Market - i think it is 12 Euros (you get tickets online) --it is def one of the best we've ever been to with incredible food in the courtyard of the Palace. I wouldn't recommend Regensberg unless you go the the private Thurn and Taxis Market.

Whatever you decide, you will have a great time.

Posted by
1479 posts

There is a craft area at the Nürnberg Market that may sell only local items but I do not believe that applies to the whole market. We lived in Nürnberg in the 1980's and much enjoyed the Christmas Market. We go back for visits but it is not our favorite or more authentic to us.

We thought that the Sttutgart Market was our favorite among the larger cities. We liked the layout better. Plus a day trip to the Esslingen Middle Ages market was fairly unique.

Regensburg and Würzburg are our favorite cities in Germany and so we enjoy visiting them repeatedly. Rothenburg's market is small, but one snowy Christmas there was probably our most scenic market visit ever.

Posted by
3 posts

Hello, we are a family travelling to Prague just before Christmas this year and are considering making a stop in Germany before heading to Paris for New Year.

Munich is the easiest stop logistics-wise (we have three young children with us), but we have been there before, so Nuremberg is our foremost candidate right now. However, we won't be arriving there until the 25th. The market ends on the 24th so we'll be missing what seems like the main attraction. Is Nuremberg still worth visiting in December after the market has closed? Does the atmosphere completely die down after the 24th?

Some thoughts we are weighing right now:
- Kids will be 6, 4 and 1 by December
- Prague has its own nice Christmas market so maybe this shouldn't be the main reason to choose the nest destination
- Maybe just go straight to France and save Nuremberg for a future trip when the market is open?
- Other options in Germany with easy train access from Prague and to Paris?

Posted by
8938 posts

If you are on FB, there is a page called Christmas markets and Easter Markets. There you get input from 100s of people going to multiple markets. I would say Nuremberg gets a lot more nays than yays. Not sure where you have read that it is the most "authentic" (what does that mean?), but the horribly, massive crowds put people off. All the stands look the same, which isn't very photogenic. In towns or cities where each stand looks different, the markets are a lot more beautiful. Every time I see a photo of the Nuremberg market, it just looks so boring. With 3 small kids, I would not go there either. My husband hated it and many of my friends have said they have not enjoyed it at all. It also is not the oldest, though many towns and cities vie for that honor. Even Frankfurt is in the running for that, with a start in 1393.

Stuttgart is a favorite and combined with Esslingen, an excellent stop. It is laid out nicely and even though one of the largest in Germany as far as numbers go, it never felt crowded to me. The medieval market in Esslingen is very unique.

Up around Frankfurt, you could go to Marburg or Limburg, if you are looking for smaller markets in quaint settings. Many of the houses here are centuries old, and the winding streets are charming. Add in a massive cathedral and not as many crowds, the markets in these towns are better when you have kids.

Dresden is considered one of the nicest ones too, but so is Cologne and Dusseldorf. If you are going to Lubeck, why not look around at some of the smaller towns there to see when they have Christmas markets.

There are markets open after 22/23 Dec. (that is when most of them close. If you arrive on the 15th, you only 7-8 days for most of them. Check dates. I know Speyer is open later as is Limburg and Koblenz.

Posted by
537 posts

For us, and it was just the opinion of my wife and I, we liked the others because of the themes, ambiance, and small town charm of the other markets. For us Nuremberg was too crowded with too many stalls and not enough room to hang out and enjoy the good food and drinks. Most other markets had all of that, which we preferred. With kids, I would recommend Rothenberg and Regensburg (Thurns & Taxis) as I think there are more things for them to do and space for them to roam. Those were two of our favorites.

Posted by
79 posts

Definitely Dresden over Stuttgart, especially since you don't have much time. You can explore several markets in Dresden's old town in a couple of hours - all of different ambience. Striezelmarkt at Altmarkt square is the largest (and famous and oldest) one, the one at Neumarkt square in front of Frauenkirche is themed about anno 1900 (very charming!) and there is a medieval market in the former stables courtyard of the Royal Palace (very atmospheric in the Renaissance courtyard!). Then there is another cute one next to the Royal Palace ("Piazza") and across the river is the more modern/stylish "Augustusmarkt" along the pedestrian boulevard Hauptstraße (white tents instead of wooden booths, drinks and food from Dresden's international sister cities e.g.)

If you have time, don't miss one of the many events related to Advent/Christmas season. Like concerts, gingerbread baking, demonstrations of Stollen baking and manufacturing wooden Christmas items, special exhibits (in the folk museum and the city museum e.g.)

Posted by
3834 posts

I visited the Nuremberg market somewhere around 2016 or 2017. I enjoyed the market during the day -- not as atmospheric as night, but I could move around and see the products on offer at the stands. The market was miserably crowded on the weeknights I was there -- like "can't move" crowded.

I enjoyed the Stuttgart market. I liked the nearby Esslingen medieval market even better.

I have not been to the Dresden market but it is high on my list of markets to visit.

Posted by
450 posts

I would consider Lübeck itself, of course! It's got a lovely market.

While I normally don't say skip Hamburg, when it comes to markets we leave a lot to be desired here. Instead consider Bremen. It's one of our favourites, particularly the medieval market at the harbour.

Stuttgart is all about the Glühwein; it's wine country, and the wineries want to show off their own creations. You also have great nearby options--baroque Ludwigsburg, Esslingen, etc. I can't speak to Dresden, but it's supposed to be lovely. Any reason you settled on these two cities? Because you might also consider places like Mainz (I personally really liked this one) or even crossing into Strasbourg (also wine heavy). Both are close to Frankfurt, so that's a bonus.

I personally liked but didn't love Nuremberg. It was definitely too crowded for my taste. But there is a lot to like, too.

Posted by
980 posts

Another "Nay" for Nurembreg. It's a victim of it's own popularity and can get extremely crowded at times. Personally we like the Dresden market better but our favorite markets are the smaller, neighborhood ones and the Mittelaltermarkt (medieval) ones.

I'd recommend planning a trip that hits big and small markets instead of just the main ones.

DJ

Posted by
141 posts

I was in Dresden this winter for their Christmas Markets. Wonderful! Their main market is the Striezelmarkt in the old town plaza. It is the oldest market in Germany going back to the 1400s. It is popular with Germans but I heard little English. Dresden is close to the Ore Mountains where they make all the quality nutcrackers, pyramids, arches, etc. and the market has a great selection of the best German decorations made! There are other markets too in Dresden, one is a Medieval Market that is fun with costumes, music, archery, food that is from that period. (Surprisingly you needed cash to get in, no credit cards, about 5 euros.) I highly recommend Dresden.
I like Nuremberg too. I have been 3 times. The crowds are not bigger there than other large markets. The most important thing to remember is weekends are always more crowded, with Saturday night being the worst. It starts getting dark about 4 pm, so you can enjoy the lights and atmosphere before it is considered nighttime.
I have been to many, many Christmas markets and they are all pretty great. I recommend Dresden, Nuremberg and Frankfurt. I have not been to Stuttgart.

Posted by
4675 posts

I vote for Stuttgart and nearby Esslingen. Esslingen has a medieval theme that they take very seriously . In One section all the vendors are in period costume , using bonfires instead of electrical lighting. Another section is period games for children, Santa is handing out candy, kids are dipping candles, etc. There's street theater, fire juggling , magic, and a parade. It wonderful for children! It was wonderful for me!
In Stuttgart, the vendors decorated the roofs of their stands elaborately , each one different, and spectacular. Visit during the daylight to see them in all their glory. The glueWEIN IS GREAT, ONE VENDOR BURNING BROWN SUGAR AND BUTTER INTO THEIR LARGE VAT. (Oops, the caps.)
I love Rothenburg, was just there this past April, but the Xmas markets are very small, and pretty much limited to the town square.
If you go to Stuttgart, then it's only a short train trip to Strasbourg, France. I have never seen towns as decorated as STRASBOURG and Colmar. The businesses decorate every floor, up to the roof. The lighting is magical and is hung in waves across the pedestrian streets. As a senior, it took my breath away , as if I were a child. It's truly magical.
Have a great time planning and deciding.
Mrs Jo lives in Germany and she's our resident expert on the markets.
Safe travels!

Posted by
8938 posts

This was my Christmas Market Trip report for 2022. I usually make one each year.
https://community.ricksteves.com/travel-forum/trip-reports/german-christmas-markets-in-2022

Thanks for the shout-out Pat, but I am not the only person on the forum that lives in Germany.

Pat - the Glühwein drink you were talking about sounds like Feuerstange Bowle. That isn't brown sugar and butter unless they have created some new drink. It is a sugar cone that they pour rum over, light it and it drips into the wine. At the Ravenna Gorge Market, they had small, individual pottery cups that had a small sugar cube, soaked in rum and then lit. Looked wild watching people walk around with these flaming cups!

Posted by
24 posts

Thanks everyone! After analyzing my itinerary and reading all the messages, I have changed a few things. First, I took the advice that I was probably trying to get in too many Christmas markets in too little time. :o( Sadly, we no longer will be heading to Stuttgart. We are going to be driving directly to Dresden, with an overnight stay on the way (we arrive later than what we wanted but that's just how it goes with "affordable" airfare!). I also chose the Christmas markets of Dresden over Nuremberg since we will be there for the weekend and although Dresden will be busy, it appears that it won't be as busy as Nuremberg. Let's hope this is true! Rather than squishing everything, we will spend 2 nights in Dresden and then drive to Berlin and see the markets there along with some sights. I have us then leaving a day earlier so that we can get to my daughter in Lubeck and actually have time to see where she will be living for the year rather than only giving us one short evening there before driving to relatives in Luxembourg. Thanks for all the advice on the markets! My husband and I will just have to come back when we aren't bound by two college daughters' schedules!

Posted by
79 posts

Thumbs up, good decision! You will be in Dresden on 3rd Advent weekend which will be very busy in the shopping centres but not that bad on the Christmas markets. I highly recommend to visit the cute, small-ish Christmas marketin the residential area Loschwitz (Körnerplatz, next to Blue Wonder bridge) which ends that Sunday:

https://elbhangfest.de/weihnachtsmarkt/

Posted by
37 posts

I did a retirement Christmas market trip in 2018, along with the RS Munich, Salzburg and Vienna tour. On my own, I visited markets in Berlin, Dresden, Erfurt and Nuremberg. I had the misfortune of being in Nuremberg on an unseasonably warm opening Saturday, and cut my visit short because of the massive crowds. In Berlin, I took a tour with Berlin Walks that took me to three markets, one of which was a Scandinavian themed local market. I will say my favorite among your choices is Dresden. The main market and the market by the church are just a few blocks apart.