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Germany-Austria-Poland late Nov/early Dec Itinerary

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Hello, My husband and I are heading to Europe from November 25 to December 8. We could use some help planning what to see, after some research I've decided I want to see everything. We found super cheap tickets in and out of Oslo, but we weren't planning on spending much time there (just the night we fly in since we arrive fairly late), then head to Copenhagen on the overnight ferry and spend one night there to see their Christmas market at Tivoli Gardens. Then on to the main attraction: Germany/Austria/Poland for 10 nights, 11 days.

That's the part that's up in the air. We know we like pretty countryside and charming little towns when traveling. (We've been to Europe once before, and liked Venice but loved Torcello, and loved Slovenia, and liked villages in Crete better than Santorini).

On our trip we'd like to experience
- Christmas markets of many different types (different regions,
countries, sizes, etc). This is pretty much the point of the trip this time of year.

- charming towns (love old architecture)
- a few interesting historic cities (though we'd prefer smaller towns)
- good food (perhaps a Polish cooking class since my husband is the cook and that's his ancestrally) and
- castles.

We also wanted to take a boat down the rhine and visit the villages/castles around it, but it seems like maybe it isn't good that time of year for the rhine? Which is a shame because it would be nice to see Strasbourg. We're also looking to balance "touristy must-sees" with a few areas that are a little more "off the beaten path".
As far as locations, we've considered
- Germany: Berchtesgaden, Wurzburg, Innsbruck, Salzburg, Rudesheim, Passau, Nuremberg, Munich, Potsdam, Dresden, Bonschau, Erfurt, Freiburg, Cochem, Bamburg, Miltenberg, Regensburg, Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Eichelstadt, Dinkelsbühl... I could go on and on. Please help me narrow them down or add another charming small town to the list that beats them all!

- Austria: Innsbruck, Salzburg, Hall, and Hallstatt seem lovely (is Hallstatt good this time of year?) This might be where want to stay with a family in the mountains and take a sleigh ride.

- Poland: other than Krakow, Warsaw, Boleslawiec, Karpacz, and Zakopane are possibilities

We'd like to travel by train if possible, but car if needed and flights are OK too. Any suggestions?

Posted by
3391 posts

For just 14 days, it's my opinion that your itinerary is just far too spread out geographically. The distances you are wanting to travel are quite far especially if you are wanting to take trains...it's an 8 hour train ride just to get from Oslo to Copenhagen...and that's the shortest travel day of all the ones you will need to take to get to the places you want to go. You should consider flying between the farther-flung places. Copenhagen to Krakow is a 26 hour train, bus, ferry trip. Krakow to Munich is 12 hours. You need to fly wherever you decide to go. Unfortunately when you find a cheap airfare, it sometimes ends up not being cheap since you need to spend money to get to where you REALLY want to go!
If it were me...I would get off the plane at Oslo and then fly directly to Copenhagen...it's only about an hour vs. an 8 hour train ride.
Spent 3 nights in Copenhagen.
After that fly to one more geographic area and spend the rest of your time there. If it were me I would choose Bavaria and Austria since it sounds like you are hoping for wintry charm and holiday festivity! I agree with you that it's not a great time to cruise the Rhine...there probably won't be snow yet and everything will just be rather brown.
I would suggest Nuremberg for the Christmas market and the beauty of the town. Take the train to Munich...again a beautiful place at this time of year.
Finally, I would head for Salzburg...there is nowhere more charming during this time of year and you won't be sorry that you went. From there you can take a day trip to Hallstatt or one of the other beautiful places in the mountains.
Save Poland for another trip. You don't have enough time.

Posted by
15611 posts

My Xmas markets trip went through Alsace, southern Germany, and Salzburg. The Alsatian markets are much different from the German/Austrian ones. Strasbourg was nice, Colmar was much better. The other big highlight for me was the medieval market in Esslingen, a short train ride from Stuttgart (also nice market). The least interesting was Frankfurt, but I was able to visit Mainz and Wiesbaden on a single day trip, and both markets were very lovely. Munich had several markets and the best potato pancakes I've ever eaten.

You only have 10 nights and you're starting in Copenhagen in the morning. It's going to take you half a day or more to get to your first stop and probably all of your 11th day to get back to Oslo. That gives you 9 days. I'd start by looking at where you can fly to from Copenhagen and where you can fly to Oslo. Pick a start and end point (or maybe 2-3 options) and come back so we can help you plan a good trip.

The markets usually start up around lunch time, so there's plenty of time to sightsee in the morning and early afternoon. The German/Austrian markets got really crowded by 7 p.m. when the locals are through with work for the day and congregate to eat, drink and socialize. Then it is hard to walk through them.

Posted by
2914 posts

That's not a lot of time at all considering where you're flying into and out of and where you want to visit. We did two "Christmas Market" trip in late Nov./early Dec. 2010 and 2013. Innsbruck was hands down our favorite. Visited Innsbruck from our base in nearby Hall in Tirol (another favorite) on both trips. We've actually stayed in Hall in Tirol 5 times for 18 nights. Love the entire Hall/Innsbruck area and have reservations to stay again later this year.

Yes, some of the markets get crowded in the evening, but it's not a problem. My wife has issues walking and with balance and she got by fine. We visited Salzburg, Berchtesgaden, Konigssee, St. Gilgen, St. Wolfgang, Hallein, Innsbruck, Rattenberg, Hall in Tirol, Hungerberg, Sterzing and Brixen, the last two over the border in Italy, about 40 minutes from Innsbruck.

Keep in mind that smaller villages and old towns do not have markets open daily. Some are just Thurs. to Sunday, some are only weekends, some are only one weekend and that's it. The Salzburgs and Innsbruck's are open daily.

Paul

Posted by
14580 posts

Hi,

You have three options...fly the discount air line, take the ferry, check out those routes, and the night train to save on time. It all depends how creative you want to be in tailoring the routes. From Oslo to Kiel can be done by ferry, then take the train to Berlin and Poland.

Posted by
12 posts

Hello all, thank you for your replies and feedback! Based on your replies we've decided to give up on the rhine and streamline our Germany stays, and possibly cutting Austria. We considered cutting Poland, but since my husband's family is from there we keep finding a pull to visit (plus we like the idea of seeing a different type of Christmas market and it's so inexpesnive!). Here's our current idea:

  • Day 1: Arrive in Oslo and board plane to Copenhagen right away. Arrive in Copenhagen around 8pm, sleep there.
  • Day 2: Explore Copenhagen, see the viking museum and the market at Tivoli Gardens. Sleep in Copenhagen.
  • Day 3: Catch a.m. flight to Munich (or we might change this for Innsbruck if we want to go south). Stay in Munich.
  • Day 4: Day trip to Neuschwanstein Castle, sleep Munich.
  • Day 5: Travel to Rothenburg OTB. Take Nightwatchman tour. Sleep Rothenburg.
  • Day 6: Explore Rothenburg's markets and Christmas museum. Sleep Rothenburg.
  • Day 7: Travel to Dresden area, stopping to see the Nuremberg market on the way. Sleep Dresden area (perhaps Dresden, Gorliz, or a castle in the Saxon area).
  • Day 8: Explore are we're staying in, perhaps take day tour to Stiffen in search of scenery and nutcrackers. Sleep Dresden/Gorlitz area.
  • Day 9: Travel to Boleslawiec, Poland. Stay somewhere in route to Krakow.
  • Day 10: Travel to Krakow, perhaps seeing a castle such as Ksiaz on the way. Sleep Krakow.
  • Day 11: Explore Krakow (maybe see Salt mines). Sleep Krakow.
  • Day 12: Explore Zakopane. Sleep Krakow or Zakopane.
  • Day 13: Slow down and explore area. Rest. Sleep Krakow or Zakopane (I'm thinking a few days in Zakopane might be a scenic/relaxing send off.)
  • Day 14: Fly out (probably catching a plane from Krakow to Oslo)

As much as I like these places and don't want to cut anything, I'm still not sure about the pace. I'm also a little concerned most of the places we're going are touristy. I was thinking of maybe trading a city out for some small, pretty village with a little Christmas market that's a little out of the way...any ideas for a little German town like this (hopefully more on the Eastern side).

For transportation, we're becoming more comfortable with renting car.

Posted by
46 posts

If you are wanting to visit a small town not too far from Dresden AND you are going to rent a car...I MUST suggest Seiffen. It is a very small, very quaint 'Christmas' town. I cannot speak for Seiffen's Christmas market(s) as I have only visited during May. The entire village is made up of Christmas like scenery...from the town lanterns to the restaurants and hotels. Seiffen is in the Erzgebirge (Ore) mountains south of Dresden. All of the stores sell wooden ornaments and wooden pyramids....a lovely, lovely, town.
If you decide not to rent a car, you can train from Dresden to Freiberg and catch bus #95 to Seiffen. This may sound creepy, but we love to visit cemeteries...Seiffen has a beautiful cemetery next to the Seiffener Kirche...a short walk up hill from the town.

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