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German Christmas Markets - Freiburg, Frankfurt, Sankt Wendel

Drove down Saturday morning with the intention of seeing the exhibition of Impressionist paintings at the Augusteiner Museum before it closes on 30 NOV. Stayed at the Marriott Courtyard, which is perfectly located near all the museums, the planetarium, and the holiday market. This was the first weekend for the market this year.

The market is spread out, with the main concentrations being near the Archäologisches Museum Colombischlössle (on both sides of the RR tracks), by the Rathaus and by the Fischbrunnen. The normal Saturday was still running around the main cathedral, although they did have some holiday stuff there. Primary lights are purple and white, with some green, red, and yellow depending on the streets. There was a lot of "Black Forest" themed stuff for sale, with some bleed over of stuff from the Alsace. I think the best carvings were offered down by the Unterlinden square. If you collect the holiday glasses you need to know that some of the different vintners have their own, so instead of just one "city" glass, there are several available. Also, something becoming rarer now days, they are actually glass and ceramic, not plastic.

For anyone interested in what else there is to do the Archäologisches Museum has an excellent collection of materials from the neolithic to Roman times with very well laid out displays. And, as noted the Augusteiner has an excellent display of Impressionists that normally don't get much exposure, as well as one of the best displays of stained glass going back to the 1300's available anywhere.

Note both the main cathedral (the Freiburger Münster) and the Augustiner Museum are undergoing repair and almost entirely covered in scaffolding.

Posted by
4445 posts

Thanks for sharing your experience and for the heads up on renovations at the cathedral and the museum.

Posted by
2392 posts

Last weekend was Advent, one of the four times a year all the churches in Frankfurt ring their bells for 30 minutes in unison. I'd not experienced that before, so it was on my list. I rode the train, which was delayed, but arrived in plenty of time. I met up with Ms Jo and she was nice enough to show me around a couple places I'd not seen before. The Christmas market is, as in many of the town, somewhat spread out. If you haven't been in a couple years, Frankfurt's has grown considerably. It's now on both sides of the river, and the area from the Rathaus to the Romerplatz was very congested, with a couple hundred stalls, some of which are multiple story structures. The Eisemer bridge was also crowded, mostly with folks waiting for the bells to ring. As always, the food is good. The usual wurst and raclette, grilled salmon, and potato pancakes abound. There's a lot of choices for drinks also, and I had a very good apple gluhwine that reminded me of the mulled cider you can get in the PNW.

When the bells start it gets very loud if you're anywhere near one of the churches. And just turning a corner can make a big difference in the sound. The bell in the Kaiserdom especially is felt as much as heard. The whole building vibrates.

There's a really excellent Merry-Go-Round in the Romerberg, and the Honighaus by the Rathaus is something I've not seen anywhere else.

If you have the time I highly recommend a visit to the Archaologisches Museum, if only to view the murals in the courtyard.

Posted by
2392 posts

Sankt Wendel is not on most peoples lists, but its one of the better Christmas Markets in the Rhineland. It's fairly easy to reach by train, and the bahnhof is just a short walk from the market. It only runs for 10 days, usually the first two weekends of December. It's one of the larger markets, with over 150 stalls, and there are a couple nights when the stores stay open late also. This is a "Middlealter Markt" with a large percentage of the booths selling local made crafts, wood carvings, ceramics, metal, glass, etc. You can find some very unique tree ornaments, high quality knits, or a life sized carved bear if you don't already have them. The food was all local, with the metzgeri and vintners all having special stuff just for the event.

One thing that sets this town apart is the Zwergenwald (elves forest), a space set aside with around 20 small puppet displays of elves going about their lives. The hospital, the school, the gasthaus, the toymaking shops; all are lit and animated. It's a big hit with the families. There's also a series of large nativity scenes dating back over 100 years, and multiple places with live music.