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First trip to Germany coming up.....I got questions

My wife and I have decided we want to experience Germany rather than just visit...we don't want to feel like we're sprinting through the country in an attempt to see as much as possible in a limited time....so our questions center around how long to stay in specific areas in order to feel like we've experienced that area.
We want to experience to following areas:
- Rothenburg.....is one night enough....do we need two?
- Fussen/ Oberammergau/Bachtesgaden.....no idea...need input
- Munich.....three nights?....or four?
- Bacharach/ Oberwesel- is a day trip w/ river cruise enough or should that be an overnight?

Also, our preconceived notion is we'd enjoy the flexibility of renting a car and driving the entire trip with the exception of Munich but I'm not too keen on driving mountain passes or even "mountainous" terrain. So, how is the terrain in the Fussen/Obermmergau/Bachtesgaden region? Pretty level....or pretty much white knuckle?

Would very much appreciate your input.

Posted by
3696 posts

I have driven all over those areas and for me that is the best way to feel like I am experiencing the country on my terms... when I see something I like, I stop. No schedule, just a rough plan. Obviously one or two days is not enough to 'experience' an area, but if you stay in smaller villages, etc. I feel it gives you a little more of a local feel. I have driven all over Europe and that area is not one that I consider 'white knuckle' Although there are plenty...there might be a few side roads that are a bit unnerving, but you can always turn back around it if doesn't feel right. Definitely the Romantic Road is slow, lazy hills. With such a short time I would just do one night in Rothenburg... it is definitely a tourist town. You can experience that in a day. A beautiful area not too far from where you are going is the Lake of Konstanz (Bodensee)

Posted by
12040 posts

There aren't really any mountain passes between the points you listed, unless you take an extremely indirect route through Austria. Some of the roads wind a bit with gently undulating elevation, but nothing difficult. It's mostly driving through valleys. The most difficult drive I could imagine is if you descend down into Bacharach from the A62 Autobahn. The access road is very winding and narrow in some places. But driving into the Rhine gorge from Bingen and heading north will let you avoid the descent.

"My wife and I have decided we want to experience Germany rather than just visit" Then avoid tourist funhouses like Rothenburg.

Posted by
44 posts

Great information guys. Much appreciated and I will build my plan around your comments.

Shocker about Rothenburg though. It's all over the travel dvd's we've seen and most of the package tours at least stop in there on their way by so it looked like a no brainer. I'm thinking now we might just make it a day trip rather than staying over.

What about Bacharach or Oberwesel......would you overnight there? Day trip there ? Pass on it altogether?

Again, candid responses are what I was looking for when I came here so I do appreciate it.

Posted by
10344 posts

I thought the Bacharach area was worth a visit. The surrounding area, the river....

FWIT, as a rule of thumb in Europe, when changing locations: 2 nights = 1 full day, 1 night does not = 1 full day of sight-seeing.
Munich could probably be "done" (whatever that means) in 2 busy days, which would = 3 nights.

Posted by
3696 posts

I know Rothenburg is a 'tourist' town, but I have taken any number of friends there and it has always been enjoyable. I always stay in the town a few miles away called Dinkelsbuhl... less touristy and a bit more quaint. I would not drive hours out of my way to drive the Romantic Road, but to drive part of it and visit a few of the little towns in the German farmland/countryside was a nice experience. I know, there are lots of beautiful roads to drive on in Germany, but if you are in the area this one makes sense. I have seen it when the fields were the color of a bright yellow maker (canola, I think) and when the trees were covered with sparkling ice crystals... I have very wonderful memories of my drive on that road, as well as car picnics.

Posted by
12040 posts

"Shocker about Rothenburg though. It's all over the travel dvd's we've seen and most of the package tours at least stop in there on their way by so it looked like a no brainer."

One of the great pleasures from my time of living in Germany was seeing how this modern industrial powerhouse of a nation comfortably coexists side-by-side with it's scenic historic past. You don't even have to look very hard. All throughout the country, and particularly in the south and center of Germany, you can see beautiful old preserved towns that exist in their present state not specifically to attract tourists, but because the residents liked it that way and felt it was worth maintaining.

Now, Rothenburg is pretty, no doubt about it. But you said you specifically want to experience Germany, not just visit. But with all the attention that Rothenburg gets from tourist promotion, the old walled portion of the town nowadays is little more than a place to feed and sell souvenirs to visitors. Nothing wrong with that, but you'll experience little of what makes modern Germany tick.

Like Terry Kathryn, I prefer Dinkelsbühl for the reasons given. Also, whereas Rothenburg isn't nearly as unique as the tourist literature claims, I've never seen another town in Germany where the buildings look quite like Dinkelsbühl. Another Romantic Road town, Nördlingen, even moreso offers a glimpse of the mix of modern and historic Germany. And this is only one small corner of the country...

So, I'm not saying don't go to Rothenburg. Just put it in perspective. If you just want to visit a pretty town, go for it. But if you want to experience Germany... go to Fritzlar, Büdingen, Bad Homburg, Bad Neuenahr-Ahrweiler, Dillenberg, Braunfels, Wetzlar, Heppenheim, Schwäbisch Hall, Bad Wimpfen, Weinheim, Hirschhorn, Marburg, Michelstadt, Memmlingen, etc.

Yeah, you won't necessarily experience much of the real Germany in Füssen either. But Neuschwanstein really is something unique. There's not to many other fantasy castles located in such stunning surroundings.

Posted by
3696 posts

I love all the BAD towns... one of my favorite is Bad Groenenbach. Last time I was there about 15 years ago, there were very few people that we ran into that spoke English. We stayed in little B&B out in the country and it was charming. We went to a festival in the town and drank Pils. There was a fountain there with the 'healing water'. The one person in town we knew was a German who worked in the US and we met him through a friend. He hosted my daughter and I and his German wife cooked us this amazing food. She was a therapist that worked at the sanitorium and also rode horses, as did his two preteen daughters. They tried to practice their English with us... We had 3 days with them. That was our first trip and one of the most authentic experiences I have ever had. We ate white asparagus, watched the girls ride in a local horse show, had dinners in their dining room (which was upstairs) They lived in a kind of old castle and next door was the blacksmith who was actually did these wonderful metal sculptures and gates, etc. It was spectacular.

Posted by
7072 posts

"My wife and I have decided we want to experience Germany rather than just visit."

If the experience you want is to be with visitors/tourists, then keep Rothenburg and Füssen - both places are almost exclusively about tourism. If you want to see some nice places but still be around Germans and see what life is like there, then I'd go elsewhere.

Nördlingen is pretty similar to Rothenburg but a real town on top of the tourism.
Bamberg isn't too far from Rothenburg. It's wonderfully regional, maybe the best place around for food and grog. Brewery-restaurants and fine old pubs abound. Its old town is a UNESCO World Heritage site. Tourists go there of course, but it's also a multifaceted city and home to an important university as well.

Neuschwanstein may be unique but it's also a unique fake - not at all the knight's castle it pretends to be. It's a 19th-century home, an exotic one, but built by a theatrical set designer, and construction was still in progress in 1892. It's a lot of trouble and €s for a 30 minute shoulder-to-shoulder tour, IMO.

Suggest you spend 3 nights in the Rhine area so you can see some real castles, places where you can experience centuries of German history.
Marksburg Castle in Braubach - Virtually unchanged from medieval times
Rheinfels Castle in St. Goar

Lots of cute towns on the Rhine, but the best "REAL" town on the Rhine IME is BOPPARD.
Main square
Riverfront walk
View of Boppard from Gedeonseck overlook (short walk from top of chairlift)

Posted by
2588 posts

I love Rothenburg and Fussen. You might want to visit them but since you will have a car, stay in a nearby village. See Bavaria Ben's website www.bensbauernhof.com for some examples.

I don't know where you mght be staying to make the Rhine a day trip. Spend a couple of days in one of the viilages

Posted by
485 posts

I couldn't tell what time of year you'll be traveling. I've been to Rothenburg four different times but they were all during December, a most magical time of year to visit. We stayed 3 nights and LOVED it. The Christmas market, the lights, the COLD... all made our visit special. Yes, it's touristy but it is beautiful, like a storybook and worth seeing. However, if I were going in summer I'd only stay 1 day, if at all. I just don't think it would have the same magic as in December.

I would stay longer along the Rhine and even maybe experience the Mosel (Cochem and Beilstein are quaint towns and Burg Eltz is nearby).

Munich is definitely a 3+ day stay. You can do a free walking tour of the old town where you meet at the clock tower in the Marienplatz. We also did the 'hop on, hop off' bus tour of Munich another day. There's also the BMW Museum and Dachau concentration camp that I think are must-sees. And don't get me started on fun places to shop...

Posted by
70 posts

A tip for Munich.
Visited St. Peter (Alter Peter) near the "Marienplatz" .The best time is early in the morning. You should be fit in climbing stairs. Then you have from the 91-meter-high tower of the "Alter Peter" one of the most beautiful views over München. From "Alter Peter" you not only have an excellent view of the towers of the "Frauenkirche" and the roofs of the old town, sometimes you can even see the Alps, in this case it's the perfect postcard panorama. The tower of St. Peter's is open daily.