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Christmas Market itinerary review—your thoughts? (Munich -> Stuttgart)

I’ve just asked a bunch of general market questions in a separate post. Here’s our itinerary, and I do have accommodations fully booked. It wasn’t always easy to find what we wanted, but I’m happy with the result. Would love your thoughts and ideas, or things we haven’t considered.
Sat Dec 3 – arrive Munich 9:30 am and take the train to Salzburg. (Connecting from the airport through the Munich main station.) Staying at an old seminary on the other side of the river, apparently 15 m walk to Old Town/market. Would like to visit a market, and stroll some of the iconic streets in the old town. Planning to nosh at the market as we wander.
Sun Dec 4 – morning in Salzburg, hoping to make it up to the castle. Our plans for Munich are light, so we don’t plan to leave Salzburg until 1-2 pm. (I’ll post a couple of questions about Salzburg in the Austria forum.)
Take afternoon train back to Munich.

? Staying at Hotel Isartor, so once we get in Munich, taking the s-bahn to the hotel from the hbf seems like a reasonable idea?

We’ll also probably walk to Marienplatz for the market there. Honestly, it’s early in the trip, so any market will probably be magical.

Mon Dec 5 – pick up rental car near the hotel. (I know driving isn’t for everyone. Husband lived in Germany for a year and we love a road trip. Also, bad weather does not bother us, being hardy Canadians.) Only big driving day—off to Alsace, about 5 hrs. We plan to take the route that passes near the Bodensee, and take our time. Two nights in Colmar. (Will post questions to France forum)

Wed Dec 7—drive to Esslingen. ViaMichelin says 2.5 hrs but we plan to take our time, arriving in Esslingen before dark. Booked at Hotel am Schelztor. Really excited about the Esslingen Medieval Market! We could take a train into Stuttgart, which I understand has a lovely market, but we’re happy to stay in Esslingen and not kill ourselves with extra arrangements.

? Anyone been to the Esslingen Medieval market? I really want to know if adults are allowed to try the traditional carnival games! Tiny ax throwing! Archery! And who knows what else?

Thurs Dec 8 drive to Rothenberg ob der Tauber, 2 nights at Goldener Hirsch inside the walls. (About 2 hr drive from Esslingen.) I really, really wanted to be in RodT after the daytrippers leave. If it’s too crowded during the day, we can go to some of the cool nearby towns. Definitely want to do the Nightwatchman’s tour. So much to see in this area.

(Friday more of the same from base in Rothenberg)

Sat Dec 10 Dinkelsbuhl (45 min drive from RodT). Staying at Goldenes Lamm, inside the wall. Last day for a small town market, but happy to wander this beautiful area if we are marketed-out. Would love to stop in Nordlingen, and perhaps Augsberg, but again, we are on vacation and don’t want to kill ourselves with plans. (Could also check out Nordlingen when we are in RodT, as the drive isn’t too strenuous.)

Sun Dec 11 back to Munich (2.5 hrs from Dinkelsbuhl). Drop off the car and settle in to Hotel Isartor again. Enjoy the evening in Munich. We don’t depart the next day until 4 pm, so we can take our time in the morning.

? We plan to take the s-bahn back to the airport—is this reasonable?
That’s a lot, but I’d love to hear from those of you who have done the markets and/or this area.

Posted by
158 posts

in Rothenberg there are the amazing Kathe Wohlfahrt stores which are just as much fun as the Christmas Market. My husband watched me pick small wooden ornaments that would be easy to carry in a suitcase, then whispered to me, “They ship.” What a game changer! The box arrived a few days before Christmas and everything was packed well so no breakage. There is the cost of shipping but that can be reduced by the subtraction of the VAT. Tip: There are a number of shops in town owned by Kathe Wohlfahrt and if you start a box to be shipped in one store then find something else in another store, they will combine your order!

Posted by
4046 posts

The Esslingen medieval market is great. As I recall, there were medieval games that adults were allowed to play.

Posted by
9222 posts

Both Stuttgart and Esslingen are at the top of my list of best Christmas markets in Germany. Not sure if you can play the games or not, but being in Esslingen after dark when they light their lanterns and torches was unique and fun.

Posted by
2480 posts

(Connecting from the airport through the Munich main station.)

You could save time by connecting already at Munich East to the Meridian (local) train. This connection is not slower than going all the way to the Hbf and taking the (expensive) long distance train there. The entire trip from the airport to Salzburg would be covered by a Bayern Ticket (€34/2).

? Staying at Hotel Isartor, so once we get in Munich, taking the s-bahn to the hotel from the hbf seems like a reasonable idea?

There is no better one!

BTW, some of your calculated driving times are somewhat optimistic.

Posted by
263 posts

CAJan, we went to the Kathe Wohlfarht store in Heidelberg this summer--it was wonderful. We replaced our original tree topper from 1986, which sadly had a tragic fall in 2020. (We still had the original box, with the price sticker in DM.) Good tip about the shipping--the tree topper came in my carry on in May, and I was worried the whole time. I'm looking forward to the Rothenberg store, which I understand is the "mother ship"!

Thanks Dave and Mrs Jo, sounds like we were well advised to prioritize Esslingen. I will definitely try some of the games if they'll let me! Thank you for the feedback.

sla019, I'll look at the train info carefully. I guess this is the "local travel only" option to take advantage of the Bayern ticket? Glad to have your feedback on the hotel. And I am laughing a little at the drive time estimates. I use a combo of viaMichelin and google, but never seem to get the same answer twice. I have liberally padded the drive times in my daily plans, as we also want to be able to stop and explore, take more minor roads--or just allow for the occasional stau.

Posted by
5620 posts

https://community.ricksteves.com/travel-forum/trip-reports/christmas-markets-switzerland-france-germany-2019

Pls forgive me if I already posted this on your thread - senior citizen here.
Rothenburg was only really crowded on the Saturday night that we were there. But, just go one block away from the plaza, and all was calm.
Check the Night Watchman's website. I'm not sure he does English tours every night in the winter.
Esllingen markets are not to be missed, but I'm also adding another vote for the Stuttgart markets. They decorate the tops of the vendor huts in such an elaborate manner.

Esslingen-There were adult games, but not as many, and there is a hot tub area, requiring reservations in advanceEnjoy your magical trip!

Posted by
2480 posts

I guess this is the "local travel only" option to take advantage of the Bayern ticket?

Right. And if you compare that option / connection with taking the long distance train from the Hbf, you will see that it is not only a few minutes faster but also saves approx. 50% of the regular fare (you could of course, gamble and book a train specific saver fare, but in times of instable flight schedules you are very likely to be the loser in that game...).

Posted by
263 posts

Thanks Pat, I have read your trip report, but will give the link to my husband, who hasn't!

We are in RodT Thursday and Friday night. I originally booked earlier in the week but it was impossible to find anything in Alsace at the weekend so I flipped the direction of our loop. I hope it's not too crowded, but I hope the shorter days will make it easier for us to get to bed at a decent hour and up and out earlier in the morning! The hot tub sounds interesting, but meh, I'm not into People Soup so much (especially these days!) I will keep Stuttgart on my list, as it does sound special. I found your trip report quite inspirational, so if you think of anything else, I'm all ears!

Thanks for the additional detail sla 019! Will do my best to sort it out in my head before we go--it's always easier to read timetables and rules in my armchair than standing at a ticket machine!

Posted by
5620 posts

JoAnne, remember that it doesn't get light until 8am in the winter!

Posted by
263 posts

Lol, I know--but an 8 am start is early enough for me on vacay!

Posted by
4046 posts

but being in Esslingen after dark when they light their lanterns and
torches was unique and fun.

Yes, yes. It is super cool.