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Christmas Market - home base

Hi all:

Planning a 2015 Christmas Market trip, that will start in Germany. We will hopefully fly out Thursday 12/17, arriving 12/18. If that works out, we will have 4 full days (not counting arrival day) before we move on, likely to Strasbourg on 12/23.

I've done a lot of researching and I am thinking of basing in Nurnberg... I would also like to visit the Nazi sites so it seems a good place to base, plus their market is supposed to be awesome (but I'm sure super crowded!). I was thinking a day for the Nazi sites, a day to see other stuff + market, which leaves me two days.

Thinking of daytrip to Regensburg? And perhaps another daytrip to somewhere close (perhaps Rothenburg)? Or....? Or I could base somewhere else if needed....how is Nurnberg as a base?

If we get those flights we will have 5 nights (including arrival) so in theory I could split 3/2 with another destination, but hesitant to move the kids around too much. If we can't get the Thursday flight and have to fly out Friday, then we will only get one day trip in, and definitely only one base.

If I only see two Christmas markets in Germany, are Nurnberg and Regensburg good choices? (We will also visit some in Strasbourg and Belgium). Or should I head for somewhere else in Germany? We will have the boys, 10 and 12, with us, plus possibly my 70 year old parents, not sure about that yet.

Thank you!!!
Kim

Posted by
1633 posts

If you base yourself in Nurnberg, you could go to the Christmas markets in Rothenburg, Regensburg, Bamberg, and Wurzburg. Using my experience from these markets, I really like Bamberg and Rothenburg. Rothenburg's market is small and quaint. Bamberg's Allstadt is beautiful and there are two markets within walking distance of each other. One is more commercialized and the other is a craftsman's market. If you would like to read my blogs and see pictures from the markets I visited in 2011 and 2012, send me a personal message for the blog website. I hope your parents can go with you. The markets are a wonderful, once in a lifetime experience.

Posted by
3049 posts

You don't say where you're flying in and out of, which would color my advice.

That said, my favorite Christmas market towns are not my favorite towns to visit on their own, and vice versa. I love Bamberg and Nurnberg, and am probably the biggest cheerleader on this board for visiting Strasbourg, but I found the Christmas markets of the first and last to be lacking (and haven't visited Nurnberg's due to lots of bad "word of mouth" amongst the expat communities)

I was also not particularly impressed with the Christmas markets in downtown Munich, although at least the gay christmas market was unique! (but not that much fun IMO)

To be honest - and I am trying to separate this from regional pride - the best big city market I have been to is Stuttgart's. (Jo agrees with me!) It winds it's way through the lovliest spots in our Mitte, and focuses on individually decorated stalls that seem to outdo each other every year in creativity and beauty, or sometimes cheesiness, but it's all fun to witness. We also have the unique section of our "Finnish" market, which isn't that attractive but has the best smoked salmon and teepees with fires in them to warm up by in the shadow of our Alte Schloss.

10 minutes away from our main train station is Esslingen, which combines a great traditional market with a medieval market that is just magical at night with food I crave year round.

There are many other cities with interesting markets that are day trippable from Stuttgart, although some only run for one weekend, so you'd have to plan carefully to see another.

If you're intent on sticking to Bavaria, I liked Augsburg's market more than any others I'd been too in that state, although I have yet to visit Regensburg.

And again - was really underwhelmed by Strassbourg's market. I love that city, but for Christmas market goodness, I'd head south to Colmar if possible.

Posted by
6625 posts

"We will have the boys, 10 and 12, with us, plus possibly my 70 year old parents, not sure about that yet... ....how is Nurnberg as a base?"

Nuremberg is the area's rail hub and ideal as a transport base for trips to Regensburg and Bamberg. Rothenburg is further but also possible. Consider a visit to Würzburg as well. There are certainly other base town options. I've based myself in smallish Neustadt-an-der-Aisch on separate occasions - a nice normal non-touristy Franconian town mid-way between Nuremberg and Würzburg with reasonable accommodations, IME.

Family passes for train outings are a good deal. The Bavaria ticket daypass is a good way to get around - use it for Regensburg and Würzburg. The VGN Tagesticket plus is cheaper and good for the trip to Bamberg and Rothenburg.

Posted by
1479 posts

Regensburg is our favorite combination of city and Christmas Market but Nürnberg is a better transportation hub to visit multiple places. Regensburg has a typical Christmas Market in the city center and a "Romantic Market" at the Thurn and Taxis Palace. It is almost a shame not to be there overnight.

http://mcchelsea.smugmug.com/Advent-2010/Regensburg/15028020_t5NQGm

http://mcchelsea.smugmug.com/Advent-2010/Thurn-and-Taxis-Palace-Market/15030947_4WtqMc

We have also visited Würzburg, Rothenburg and Bamberg at that time of year. You can not miss with any of them for the sights of the town. None have Christmas Markets that are special. All of them are worth seeing, especially at this time of year.

I agree with Sarah that Stuttgart might have the best big city market that we visited. Esslingen had a Medieval Market that I was less impressed by. The town itself was very attractive to us and I hope to get back in another season.

In short, I think that Nürnberg is an excellent choice for base. The market also has a craft section as well as a very large typical market. BTW, our favorite Wurst Stand is on Karolinenstraße near Deutsche Bank. We started eating there in the 1980's. Have one for us.

Posted by
967 posts

I love Nurnburg, but after a number of trips there, the last 2 years ago in December, I have decided it is just TOO crowded on Christmas market weekends to be enjoyable. If you arrive on Friday, 3 of your 4 full days are going to be in shoulder to shoulder crowds, the kind where you lose 10 and 12 year old boys and exhaust 70 year old parents. I've always done this with a car, but I really like Rothenburg for a base. The market is not big, but the town is calm and so easily walkable in the evenings and mornings, and you can venture out to Nurnburg or Bamburg during the day.

Check the dates for markets on the 23rd. I think I remember that as the last day for the German markets, and on the 24th, the marketplatz would be swept clean without a trace of the previous day's festivities. And I don't remember a single Belgium market that I thought even held a Christmas candle to the German ones!

Posted by
2394 posts

From Strasburg you might make a trip to Gengenbach, home of the largest Advent calendar. I would also recommend visiting the Narren museum there. Www.stadt-Gengenbach.de

Posted by
993 posts

Oh my, so much to think about!! Ack!! :)

I guess it may depend how much time we have... if we can do 2 day trips or one. I feel like I had read the advice somewhere to be sure to go to a city you want to visit, and then also do the market. And where we can get flights into - I figure if we go somewhere kind of central, we could fly into either Frankfurt or Munich, giving us some options for flights. We could also do some of Northern germany instead... don't know much about there... and further if we want to go to Strasbourg.

I wonder if we should stay in Colmar or Strasbourg? Especially if my parents come I want to hit this region since my dad's family is from the Alsace area. Also, my husband visited Strasbourg on business and liked it. I figured we really only have like 2 days here (even though 4 nights) since Xmas eve/day will be pretty much hanging at home, maybe a walk... We will rent an apt.

I wonder if Nurnberg will just be too awful crowded... we could plan to hit their market on 12/21 or 22 (Mon/Tues) and do a daytrip to a smaller market on Sunday.

Or maybe stay in Regensburg and daytrip into Nurnberg for their other sites... I think we would for sure like to visit the Nazi sites as my kids learned a little in school and they were pretty interested in WWII.

More thoughts are welcome!! Such a hard decision! Thanks everyone for weighing in! I'll definitely check out Bamberg, that wasn't on my original list.

Kim :)