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Black Forest versus Bavaria

I'm torn with my precious limited time between these two destinations. Travelling with my husband and 15 year old son, we will spend probably 4 days in Berlin, as we love cities. But the rest of the time we are hoping for castles and rural German experiences. My son would like to incorporate a German car manufacturer tour. I want to see the Romantic Road and end up in Munich but I worry that this itinerary brings me too far east of the Black Forest. We live outside Seattle, on the Olympic Peninsula (with mountain views) and have spent time in the Dolomites. I tell you this because we have seen our share of mountains. Rick suggests that the Black Forest might be underwhelming, so I'm wondering if we should skip the Black Forest altogether?

Thoughts?

Posted by
7072 posts

When you say "Bavaria" you are referring just to the Bavarian Alps, I think.

In the map below, the Bavarian Alps are at the south end and tan in color. Everything green to the north is "Bavaria" too.

Map of Bavaria

Bavaria isn't exactly chock-full of castles. They tend to be fairly few and far between.

"But the rest of the time we are hoping for castles and rural German experiences."

Your best bet for rural and castles is closer to Berlin than the Alps and the Black Forest... The Upper Middle Rhine Valley and the Mosel River Valley are close to each other, bathed in castles, and... very rural, and beautiful. Both places happen to be on the way to the Black Forest, and both offer hiking, biking, river cruising, wine tasting, and other nice travel options.

Map with Rhine Castles between Koblenz and Bingen... click on castle icons for info.

Map showing location of the Rhine and Mosel Valleys and the Black forest in Germany

And between the Rhine and the Black Forest you will run into Stuttgart, home to both Mercedes Benz and Porsche.

The Black Forest itself isn't filled with tall mountains but still qualifies as one of Germany's most scenic rural spots. I've been there myself on at least 6 different multi-day stays, exploring new places each time. I've read Rick's Black Forest suggestions and seen them, and they are indeed somewhat underwhelming... Baden-Baden, Freiburg, Triberg, and Staufen were some of my least favorite places. Makes you think he may not have gotten around to some of the nicer places. Have a look at some others... Gengenbach, Gutach im Schwarzwald (Open Air Museum), Schiltach, St. Blasien, Haslach, Calw, Titisee and Neustadt (for the scenic hiking, mostly) and Löffingen (Wutachschlucht hiking)

Railway map for these last three:
https://de.academic.ru/pictures/dewiki/86/Verlaufskarte_Hollentalbahn_2.png

I like the Black Forest also because it has undergone less in the way of modern development than the rest of Germany, as a rule. Old ways have persisted a bit more than elsewhere.

I think you'll really feel like you're in Germany with a Berlin > Rhine/Mosel > Stuttgart > Black Forest itinerary.

Posted by
2548 posts

How many days do you have? And what time of year?

After spending a week outside of Salzburg, I was disappointed by the Romantic Road. If you are looking for castles, scenic beauty, and lots to do with teens, consider Salzburg. Check out the fortress and ice caves in Werfen, try paragliding, check out the Red Bull hangar, ride a sommerrodelbahn, go to a salt mine, visit Hallstatt. The options go on and on. Salzburg is super charming, and the surrounding areas are super cute. If you have a car, this would be a great option for an apartment: https://www.booking.com/Share-kTTIQG

I just saw Russ’s post and will echo the recommendation of the Rhine River area. We love Boppard as a base.

Posted by
2588 posts

Look at Stuttgart for automobile museums and possibly a Porsche factory tour. Then going south thru Tuebingen and the Swabian Alb, the upper Danube valley. Markopolko on the Tripadvisor german forum has many good suggestions

Posted by
8022 posts

If you like castles and a rural German experience, then I would bypass Munich and Bavaria and focus on the Black Forest and the Rhineland.

The Black Forest is filled with small, charming towns and half-timbered houses, surrounded by lakes, rivers, gorgeous valleys, and wildlife and has some wonderful hiking trails. You could stay there for a few days in one of the many small villages, although I recommend Gengenbach, which is on the major train route. Gengenbach is lovely (it's been called a "chocolate box" village) with a picturesque, medieval town center and I loved my 4 night stay here. Also, if you stay here (or other places in the region), you are entitled to a free KONUS card that allows free travel by train, bus and other public transport throughout the KONUS area.

After that, you could travel to the Rhine area, where castles abound. I stayed in Boppard and traveled around the area by train and bus to see castles and also cruised along the Rhine. It's a beautiful area with a lot of history and gorgeous scenery. And so many castles! Don't miss Burg Eltz - that was my favorite.

And as Sam pointed out above, Stuttgart is nearby, which would allow your son to see all the automotive museums and the Porsche factory.

Posted by
7072 posts

Some supplemental details for the good suggestions you've received above...

Boppard is largely overlooked in Rick's materials but as mardee and travel4fun have said, it's a great base town for the Rhine. I've stayed there on several occasions as well. What wasn't said is that Boppard offers free local train/bus travel to all who book there, so getting to Rheinfels Castle (St. Goar) or Marksburg Castle (Braubach) or Burg Eltz (Wierschem) or Reichsburg Castle (Cochem) and to other places within the VRM zone will be free of charge.

Also, the KONUS program for the Black Forest mardee mentions has been in place for many years - I've used it myself on separate trips - very simple, convenient, and free. Here are some links so you can better understand how the KONUS Card in the Black Forest can be acquired and used.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KkgzMXQ7blQ
https://prospektbestellung.toubiz.de/media/prospekt/file/5736289_KONUS_GB_2022.pdf

Posted by
33 posts

Thanks everybody for your replies. I think partially what has me confused is that Rick gives Munich and Bavaria & Tirol his 3 star "Don't Miss" status. But perhaps I should just skip it. Looking forward to hearing any other opinions on this.

Posted by
7072 posts

I think partially what has me confused is that Rick gives Munich and
Bavaria & Tirol his 3 star "Don't Miss" status.

The advice thus far has been personalized... you were specific about BERLIN (which is way down on Rick's funny little prioritized list...)

https://www.ricksteves.com/europe/germany/itinerary

And you were also specific about castles and more rural places... also about your having seen your fair share of mountains.

So I don't think you should concern yourself at all that you are "missing out" on a second urban destination like Munich, or on the Bavarian Alps (mountains that are actually somewhat less impressive than the Dolomites and the Swiss Alps IMO.) Keep in mind that Rick is a marketer of tours, travel materials, etc. to the general public and must keep his recommendations in line with all kinds of preconceived ideas about Germany among his reader-clients back home. And when the consumers of his products back home think "Germany", they often conjure up associations and stereotypes like Bavaria, Hitler / Nazis / Concentration Camps, Walt Disney, Lederhosen, beergardens, Alps, etc. Bavaria and Munich are an easier sell.