Berlin: What Do You Wish Someone Had Told You?

As of 2015 (it might have changed) there were a couple of significant issues with the Museuminseln add-on for the Berlin Card (probably not the correct term--I'm talking about the pass sold by the tourist office):

• You get no skip-the-line benefits, and in the summer the lines soften exceed 1 hour.

• If a museum has a special exhibition that drives up the entry fee, you get no benefit from the card at all; you will pay the full (higher than usual) entry fee, not just the amount attributable to the special exhibition.

It's not exactly a secret, but a lot of the museums are very, very large. That will affect how many other things you have time to do the same day.

Also, the city sprawls, and you may spend more time than anticipated moving from sight to sight. Note especially that switching from the U-Bahn to the S-Bahn or vice versa can entail a lot of walkimg. Some time spent marking your target sights on a map will help you group things efficiently. The geography, coupled with the time required to see many of the sights, means that the city card is less likely to pay off than one might expect. It is probably best for folks planning to see a bunch of non-museum sights.

There are many wonderful Cold War sights in the city, not all of them covered in every guidebook. Some time at the tourist office, looking at the brochures on display (or on TripAdvisor), may turn up some gems, especially if you're interested in the post-WW II era. Some of those sights are open into the evening.

It's a very good city for non-German restaurants, which you may appreciate if you're spending a lot of time in Germany.

Restaurants tend to sell extremely small bottles of water. I often received 0.2-litre bottles (roughly 6 oz.) Do not walk into a restaurant thirsty! Perhaps beer is cheaper. Two or more people traveling together should inquire about a large bottle of water. You will need to specify whether you want still or sparkling water.

Stress not if your hotel charges too much for breakfast. Counters with a wide variety of sandwiches (and not ridiculously large ones) are all around, and you can easily find cups of cut-up fruit.

It is not, in general, a physically beautiful city. If you need some pretty, you can hop over to Potsdam.

Berlin, differently than most European capitals, doesn't have all its attractions within walking reach. If you decide to walk all around, you will miss several interesting sites.

BVG, the local public transit agency, has day, week and monthly passes that are quite cheap. Even if you are not staying a full week, check if the price doesn't but buying several day passes (many people make this silly mistake of ignoring longer passes because their trip is shorter than that). Subways, trains and trams are preferable to buses and will take you anywhere you might want to go.

Don't overthink these issues about "the locals". Trying too hard is probably annoying as well. Berlin is a global city with many foreigners, you will not be the first or the last, and in all likelihood, not even someone locals will register. Nothing stands out in particular about supermarkets and shopping.

In regard of restaurants, as in most of continental Europe, do not expect the same faux-friendly butleresque style of service common in US. Waiters and servers are better paid, consequently, there are fewer of them compared to a similar restaurant in the US (size, cuisine, food quality, price level). So there will be fewer pretend-smiles and fewer people walking around the eating room(s). Tipping is something optional at places with a la carte dining and table service and never expected at counter-service places like bars, Starbucks etc - people working there earn decent wages and are not depending on tips to feed or clothe themselves. Do not tip taxi drivers (if you use them), hairdressers or airport staff.

Wish I had known about the Green Man (Walking Man) store, would have budgeted more gift money there! (Green/walking man was the symbol on traffic lights to stop or walk.)

Only the most formal restaurants in Germany expect you to wait at the entrance to be shown to a table. Establishments that in many other countries would want you to wait at the entrance instead expect you to just walk in and find a seat.

Be warned that if you are upstairs on a Berlin double-decked bus the driver will NOT wait for you to walk down the stairs at the stop. Unless you are already at the exit door when the bus pulls up you will be overcarried. Hence you shouldn't go upstairs unless you are happy with descending the stairs on a moving vehicle.

Berlin isn't really Germany. It's an international city like New York or London, and is essentially a city-state. Berliners are Berliners before they are German, and you'll hear a LOT of English on the street.

Best way not to annoy the locals? Don't be an expat or a Swabian. Berliners don't mind tourists, but some of them are not fond of Berlin's new status as the international "It" city as foreigners and Swabians are moving in and driving up their formerly low housing market prices. So embrace being a "tourist", no one will judge you.

Supermarkets are pretty close to the US standard, except that you bag your own groceries and your US credit card may not be accepted (chip and PIN probably will.) Smaller markets, bodegas, liquor stores, kiosks you should just plan on using cash. Same for non-fancy restaurants. Berlin is getting better about accepting cards than the rest of Germany but it's not fully there yet.

Berlin is spread out and the neighborhoods all have a distinct character. My suggestion is to spend a half day checking out an attraction in a neighborhood and then just walking around, browsing shops, cafes, restaurants, bars, etc.

For me, the former East is far more interesting than the West. I definitely recommend staying in the East.

There's not really a Berlin cuisine unless you're counting currywurst or "New German" which is upscale takes on traditional German dishes. Sure you can find plenty of schnitzel, but just as much burgers or Asian food or Turkish food. Go ahead and embrace it, German food gets boring quickly anyway. Berlin is an amazing food city for the diversity and price of the food.

Depending on the weather, Berlin has a lot of great green areas within the city and reachable quickly. So if it gets warm and you want a break from the city, it's easy to find!

Expect to pay 50 cents for public toilets, in museums sometimes, etc. Don't get annoyed, just pay it.

And just enjoy! Berlin is my favorite city in Germany. I could be there for weeks without running out of awesome things to see and do.

The first day you get to Berlin I would get the map of the public transportation and utilize it as much as you can since Berlin is very sprawled out city. It is very easy to use and it is clean.

Tipping at restaurants - after you get the check if you pay with CC you would tell them, the total cost with tip included. I believe the standard tip was 10%.

Visit Mauerpark on Sunday, they have karaoke, bands, and beer carts. RS mentions it in his book and episode. This big party had a different feel and energy with everyone from little kids to older adults coming together having a good time.

Learn basic German phrases, just like any other country Germans seemed happy to help after a simple hello or thank you in German.

Also, I definitely agree with Sarah that East Berlin has more character. I stayed & spent the majority of my time in Berlin exploring East Berlin.

For sure plan to spend at least four days, there is so much to do and as has been mentioned, things are quite spread out. I bought the Berlin Welcome card at the airport - many will argue over whether it's a value, but having a no-fuss transit pass and entrance into many of the museums I wanted to visit was worth it. You don't get to skip the line at most, so if there is a place you really want to see (e.g. Pergamon museum) go about a half hour before they open. You'll be in line still, but the crowds aren't as bad. On first day, take a walking tour (I did an Insider Tour) to get a good overview and lay of the land. There are many free museums, mostly cold war/wall oriented - every single one I went to was awesome. Especially this one and this one.

If they're offered while you're there, definitely book a guided behind the scenes tour of the Reichstag Building - they have evening time slots and the tour ends at the dome (view is awesome). Allow time to get through security (similar to airport screening). Reservations are online and open about three months ahead (currently you can reserve through the end of December). Go up the dome (also reservable) even if you can't get a guided tour.

Grocery stores have easy to go type meals (salads, sandwiches) and the beer is SUPER cheap (33 euro cents a can at Aldi). You can stock up on Haribo candy in all shapes and sizes. Take your own bags. Konnopke Imbiss (Schönhauser Allee 44B) does have excellent currywurst (and I'm not a hotdog fan).

Don't be a loud American. If you are in an environment where people are not talking or are speaking softly, speak softly. For example, on public transportation, there is not a lot of conversation happening. So, keep discussions with travel companions on the U/S/etc at a low level.

There's not really a Berlin cuisine unless you're counting currywurst
or "New German" which is upscale takes on traditional German dishes.
Sure you can find plenty of schnitzel, but just as much burgers or
Asian food or Turkish food.

Actually, a Berlin cuisine exists of course, but the dishes aren't that good since the region was always poor, and the soil not fertile. And most German restaurants in Berlin offer what tourists expect, and they want the few German dishes they know. That's why you usually can't get the Berlin version of a schnitzel for example but the one from Vienna. The traditional schnitzel in Berlin was either made from udder, or a Wiener Schnitzel with fried eggs, caper and fish. It's the same with Eisbein vs. Schweinshaxe. Eisbein is the traditional dish of Berlin, but in many restaurants you also find Bavarian pork knuckle.
There are only a few restaurants which offer authentic local dishes, and most of them can be found in the Nikolaiviertel next to the city hall, like Mutter Hoppe, Zum Nußbaum or Zur Gerichtslaube.
Typical dishes are Eisbein, Liver with onions, Königsberger Klopse (that's what I would recommend), blood sausage and liverwurst with potatoes, Buletten (fried meat balls) with potato salad, or beef in a horseradish sauce. The typical beer is Berliner Weiße with flavoured syrup, and a typical drink is Fassbrause.

I forgot to mention that all the government-run museums required me to check my normal-sized cross-body bag. It appeared that you were not allowed to carry anything into the display space. There were usually lockers. The fee was 1€, with only 1€ and 2€ coins accepted. Have some 1€ coins, because no change is given if you use a 2€ coin.

Fair point Martin, perhaps I should have said that there's not much worth fussing about with Berlin cuisine. I know a few Berliners and I have asked them all about their local food (I do this with everyone) and they've always said, "Eh, don't bother," while tucking into a plate of maultaschen enthusiastically.

Anyway, I do think Berlin is the best food city in Germany but not due to a local food culture based on tradition but rather being a city based on embracing differing cultures.

However the New German cuisine that has been created largely in Berlin is well worth a splurge. I had a birthday dinner at Hermann's a few years ago and it was amazing.

In the same day, I spent most of it at Sachsenhausen and the rest at a Berlin Wall watch tower. I did this on my own as my husband was not with me on this trip. Be careful of seeing so much horror in one day. I woke up in the middle of the night with one of the worst nightmares of my life of seeing my family tortured by both Nazis and Soviets. I woke up in a sheer panic.

So my advice is plan to experience something beautiful if you choose to visit an historic site of pure evil and terror. Maybe walk in a park and see life continuing, spend time looking at beautiful paintings/sculpture.

Hi,

This notion that you cannot just go after German food in Berlin is a myth. You mainly have to know where to go. There are plenty of places in both the eastern and western parts of the city, ie, Charlottenburg and say, Köpenick. Try the Rathaus Köpenick restaurant. As recommended "Mutter Hoppe" is just one of those restaurants serving traditional German cuisine. On the Friday in June I was in the Nikolaiviertel the place was booked up and the outside was all occupied. This was at 1900 hrs. If I had come back at 2130 hrs, there might have been a table.

If you're looking for local cuisine and drink particular to Berlin, Berliner Eisbein is one such dish. There are local Berlin beers...Schultheis, Berliner Kindl, and , of course, Berliner Weiße, served in a big "ice cream sundae" bowl. Berliner Weiße mit rot is what I order, at least once per visit there. It is a beer served only in Berlin. Of all the places I've been to in Germany on 23 trips in forty-six years, I saw one other town where Berliner Weiße was served...Sigmaringen.

If it's ethnic or international cuisine you want, tons of such places in Wilmersdorf and Charlottenburg aside from the chic places in Prenzlauer Berg.

If there is one thing that I wish I had known prior to arriving in Berlin the first time in mid-July 1971, it was the heat, which caught me by surprise, and I thought then, this (heat) must be the famous "Berliner Luft" as praised in the Berlin songs.

"...great advice or ideas" on Berlin to pass on: Don't just see the usual tourist sites in Berlin, get out to other areas, Spandau, Köpenick, Karlshorst, Zehlendorf, Grunewald. Take advantage of the S-Bahn system, This last trip in June I spent two full weeks in Berlin, booked 14 nights at the Pension, used the S-Bahn extensively.

Hi,

On planning this trip in 2018, keep in mind that historical Berlin is eastern Berlin, ie, east of the Brandenburg Gate, if that is one of your interests. Like you I'll be going back to Berlin in 2018 too but in the summer.

Interesting thread, I'm 99% sure I'll be going to Berlin next May so I'll be following this.

I wish someone had told me earlier what a wonderful city it is-or I'd listened harder! Not only did I love it's compelling history, welcoming and friendly inhabitants and beautiful and unique architecture, but I absolutely agree with everyone who spoke to the terrific food to be sampled there. Just there for 10 days last May and already planning a trip back. I enjoyed catching the #100 bus from the Zoo station near our B&B and just riding around the city. It also has a very walkable city core. Bought a 7 day transit pass which also covered our day trip to Potsdam.

I would say study up on the public transportation systems. We ended up using the buses way more than the subway. It was not as easy to figure out as London or Paris. Try and get a good map that also shows the transportation systems on it.

Great advice here, but I would like to comment on two of them:
Andre: "Do not tip taxi drivers (if you use them), hairdressers or airport staff." - I disagree. Tipping taxi drivers is common and expected (if you were satisfied). My usual tip is around a Euro for short taxi trips, and around 10% for longer ones.
Hairdressers are usually not well paid, so I think most people tip them, too.

acraven: Almost all lockers I have encountered in German museums are free, but you have to pay a deposit (i.e. you get the Euro back when unlocking the locker). There may be exceptions, though.

Aah, Chris, I must have left some euros behind!

What Do You Wish Someone Had Told You? Why did you wait so long for your first visit?

Thank you to everyone for your contributions. I hope to contribute more when I return from Berlin.

Thanks, Acravan...good input. I plan to go to Potsdam on at least one or two days.

Andre, I plan to get the 6-day Berlin Welcome Card. I will probably get at least two of them to cover up to two weeks.

Zoe, I did some preliminary research on the Green Man shops. Funny...that will be a must for me!

Philip, I have a keen understanding of German punctuality and efficiency...so point well taken.

Sarah, I never heard the term, "Swabian." Agree, pay toilets are good and clean...just pay for them.

Adam, I am well on my way to learning German. Every day, I try to learn a few more German words or proper pronouns or sentence structure.

Once my locations are established, I plan to post numerous questions about food, restaurants and shopping. Thanks again, everyone.

We just returned from Germany on Saturday so I thought I'd offer my thoughts while they're still fresh in my mind. We spent 2 nights in Berlin and it was one of my favorite things on our adventure (we were in Germany for 9 days, rented a car, and did entirely too much...but it was amazing!). We stayed in Prenzlauer Berg, on the eastern side of the city. We parked the car and walked the entire time we were in Berlin...and while we could have used public transportation, I am so happy we walked everywhere as it was really a great way to see the sites. BUT - be more brave than I was, and at least give the public transport a try. :)

We did the Discover Berlin Walking tour through the Original Berlin Walks group. It was worth the two blisters that developed on my toe. I would definitely do a tour through this group again. At the end, the guide made sure we knew how to get back to where we started, and offered suggestions on restaurants or other sites to see on the way.

Most restaurants you find your own seat, and be prepared to enjoy the whole experience. Dining is not rushed or perfunctory like it is in the States. Service will seem quite slow compared to what we're used to, but please enjoy it.

Be sure to request still water if you're not into the sparkling mineral water. You'll also need to request ice cubes if you prefer your drinks that way, but I found the drinks to be an acceptable temperature.

One question I have for others with respect to dining - is it common for people to ask for to-go containers? I didn't see this in all our time in Germany, but I wasn't sure if it's because we were all hearty eaters :)

Watch for the bike traffic - they're on a mission! There is a lot of graffiti, but that doesn't mean you've stumbled into a bad part of town. I never once felt unsafe or unsettled in my surroundings, which is really something to be said for the amount of people out and about.

If anyone asks you to sign something, just walk away.

Take in all the sites and experiences. Go to a bakery for pastries and coffee. Eat the street food. Giggle at the Tribant museum and enjoy the tourist trap that is Checkpoint Charlie. Soak in all the atmosphere. Listen to the people speaking around you.

Except for pizza, fast-food places and spots like patisseries, taking food out of an establishment--especially leftovers--is not very common in Europe. I wouldn't be surprised to see this change over time, but it's still pretty rare. Most places simply won't have suitable containers unless they're already in the carry-out business (like many pizzerias these days).

@Kim- does the Discover Berlin tour go past all the sights and is it easy to stay with the group? I've read more than a few reports of people getting lost in the crowds and being left behind.

As far as doggie bags take out it's still rare as our visit Spain showed. We couldn't eat all our food and requested it to go. After some minor miscommunications we indeed get a container to take home but from the look our waitress gave us, it's not common. I think it helped we were we're the "crazy" Americans!:)

I've heard on here many times over the years about take away is not common in Europe and I've never really understood it as we do it quite often, and have for years, both in Germany and here in Italy. I'm not sure I've ever encountered a restaurant that didn't do it if you asked.

We were in Berlin last spring and before we left my husband and I both read:
The House by the Lake: One House, Five Families, and a Hundred Years of German History-Thomas Harding
The Tunnels-Greg Mitchell

Also, it was interesting to watch the movie "Bridge of Spies".

Have a wonderful trip and I hope you enjoy Berlin as much as we did!!

That East Prussian restaurant in Berlin referred to in another post does ask you if you want the "doggie bag" That expression is used when they are speaking to you in English and know that you're American. There is another restaurant on Bleibtreustraße a couple of blocks from the East Prussian one that offers "good old typical Berliner Küche." Their sign says so.

Those super rare occasions when I opt for a taxi in Germany, I tip them, especially when the fare is in double digits.

Read the In the garden of beasts by Erik Larson - interesting lightish read that takes place in Berlin just as hitler is elected chancellor.
Leave lots of time for the German history Museum. we did 1/2 day and didnt have enough time. Or go directly to the sections you are interested in. they have a nice cafe there as well. the Film Museum is very interesting as ell- we went because we wanted to see other things in that area and realy enjoyed it.
the food stalls in the Alexandrplatz are great. Rick's book recomends a Bus - I think it Bus 100 - he's right. we used it often as a sight seeing bus. our hotel was on the route close to the Alexanderplatz . Very convenient area.

Oh, and another thing about Berlin double-deck buses - you go UP the staircase at the front and DOWN the staircase at the back. Get it wrong and other passengers will not be happy.

I take home doggie bags all the time at restaurants. They do not have a problem with this.

I tip my taxi driver a couple of euro and I tip at the hair salon and the nail salon if I am happy with the service. It doesn't have to be much, maybe 2 euro.

Restaurants - 5-10% if you are happy. Do not leave it on the table.

I wish someone had told me that if you're not enrolled in the DB frequent traveler program, DB will not notify you when it has changed its rail schedule that affects the tickets you bought even though they have your email address.

So if you have purchased advanced tickets on the DB, check its schedule regularly to make sure your trains are still running.

Thanks for the replies on the "doggie bags" - I'm always interested in these little differences, and happy to know next time I don't have to try to scarf down all my schnitzel in one sitting.

@heather - The Discover Berlin walking tour was great, and the highlight of our trip. Our group consisted of about 15 adults and no one wandered off or got lost. If we were separated by traffic signals, our guide would wait for the others to catch up. It does not go into museums or buildings, but merely takes you by the attractions so you could decide to go in at a later time. Our guide (Rick - he was great!) was very candid about certain museums not being worth the time/admission price, and at the end of the tour he stayed close to answer any and all questions from the group - including how to get back to where we started, which restaurants were worth checking out, or why there's so much dang graffiti all over (compared to what we're used to seeing in the States).

A few quick observations based on a very recent trip:

--I certainly recommend on the first full day a Berlin walk by a reputable company. The walk will provide a good introduction to the city. However, a four-hour walk is sufficient. I went on a six-hour walk, thinking the additional two hours would provide greater depth. It did not. Instead, the tour guide used the extra time not for sightseeing, but for too many bad jokes and a lunch break.

--I stayed in a very small bed and breakfast with great reviews. The hotel was fine. But because Berlin is relatively inexpensive, next time I will consider as a treat staying at one of the top hotels in the city, which can be very reasonably priced depending on time of year and advance booking.

--It is said that one goes to Berlin to understand, rather than to see, and it is easy to overdose on the history of the city, which in recent times has been exceptionally bleak. The city's layers of history are the principal reason I went. I am fairly knowledgeable about recent German history. But I found that there was a saturation point where I had had enough history and needed to do something else. That said, the simple Gleis 17 Holocaust memorial right outside the city is moving.

--There are very good concerts several nights each week at the Kaiser Wilhelm Church.

--A high point of the trip was a visit to the Reichstag building with an English-language tour. Book in advance.

--A museum that does not get the attention it deserves is the German Resistance Museum.

--Note that there is much signage in Berlin that is in English as well as German.

--There are parts of western Berlin where you feel as though you are in Manhattan or Chicago.

Went to Berlin for the first time this summer with a close American friend who lives in Germany. Here's a few things that come to mind:

**It's very touristy. The poster who said it's more like NYC than a mental image of traditional Germany is right. Along those lines, carefully choose which attractions to go to; my friend who spends a lot of time there warned me that a lot of places feel more like a Disney ride. You'll see a bunch at Checkpoint Charlie, for example. (Story of Berlin was the most disappointing; I did not go to it.) We did not see many local Germans, though we had a good conversation with some Tunisians who ran an Italian and German restaurant across from our hotel.

**The German History museum takes nearly all day but is worth it.

**Definitely map your attractions ahead of time to be efficient since they are spread out. I used google maps.

**Berlin welcome card was a great idea, esp. for hassle-free transport. We only got the AB version which takes you nearly everywhere. Public transport is very easy--no need to scan your ticket every time like in the USA.

**There is a cruise company which does something called the Seven Lakes Tour. I found it on Trip Advisor. We were planning on that cruise, but there was a longer 3 hour one that goes to Potsdam and back, with English narration that we took instead (the Cecilhof boat, it was called) and loved it. Lots of historical sites from the 1700s to Cold War (inc. going under the Bridge of Spies twice). Ask the ticket guy and show your Berlin card for a discount.

**Beware of the cyclists when you get off buses. They think they are in the Tour de France or something and you need to cross the bike lane to get on/off the bus.

**Get to the Brandenberg Gate either very early or very late since it is mobbed.

And finally, the most important: if you go to city or state-run places like the Topography of Terror, look for sandwich boards near the entrance (or ask the staff if you don't see one). Police set these up with instructions on what local pickpocket gangs are up to lately. When I was there, the popular scam was asking to sign a petition for disability rights, and they were happy to take phones and cameras not just money. The board had a copy of the "petition" and warnings in English. If approached, yell at the criminals LOUDLY until they run away and be aware of others sneaking around you. I was accosted twice that same day and the following day, there were 14 (!!!) of them at the Soviet War Memorial near the Victory Column. Took a picture from a safe distance for a memorable story for my family.

Enjoy your trip!

"It's very touristy." It can be. In some ways I agree, in other ways I reject that assessment. Ku'damm, Unter den Linden, Friedrichstraße, Potsdamer Platz, the area of the Kaiser Wilhelm Gedächniskirche, etc can be very touristy but in Berlin especially you have to know where to go since it is such a spread out city, instead of the mainly frequented tourist sights. Yes, it is an international city with international cuisine....Greek, Czech, French, American, Austrian, Vietnamese, Thai, Japanese, Mexican, Mandarin Chinese, Italian, etc, plus Berliner cuisine and traditional old style German.

It is a city worthy of repeat visits, I like going from the west, say Spandau to east say, Karlshorst. Get away from the tourist spots in Mitte and Prenzlauer Berg.

Wondering how one can tell a local German from all of the people who live and work in Berlin? What in the world does a local German look like?

There is no need to yell loudly at the petition girls. They are in every city and even in the woods along the Camino trail. A firm no thank you and keep on walking works very well. Have never felt the need to yell at them and I encounter them on almost a daily basis.

Not seeing locals.The same could be said for any big city in the US. Berlin is a melting pot and locals come from all different lands. Doesn’t mean they aren’t German.

I wish I knew that you need to book tickets ahead for some places. I also noticed that you can save a lot on transportation and metro tickets if you purchase a pass online before the trip. I guess that's about it and there were not that many surprises on my first trip to Berlin. Here are two short travel itineraries that I wrote about Berlin for first timers.

http://www.routey.net/City/Berlin/Route/312/Charlottenburg-Palace-Walking-Route
http://www.routey.net/City/Berlin/Route/314/Contemporary-Art-Berlin-Walking-Route

To help other travelers, I decided to post something about Dresden since that will be a side trip for me from Berlin. Someone recently posted this and it is a great reminder to be aware of.

The Historic Green Vault (HGV) is not covered by discount tickets. Dresden.de shows many Welcome Cards (i.e., museums cards, city cards, etc.), but none of them include the HGV. They may include the New Green Vault, but not the HGV. Rick Steves 2018 Germany Book confirms this. You need a separate ticket for the HGV.

Richard's advice about visiting the Reichstag building is worth repeating. It is a fascinating blend of old and new, with a glass observatory on the roof that offers stunning views across the city. However you must register in advance for the tour. The issue is security in a key government building.

https://www.bundestag.de/en/visittheBundestag/dome/registration/245686

https://www.berlin.de/en/attractions-and-sights/3560965-3104052-reichstag.en.html

Essential research tool: https://www.visitberlin.de/en