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Berlin or Munich in 2021?

Here are the relevant facts:

My wife and I are both retired. We have plenty of time and plenty of resources. In recent years, we have gotten away from the idea that we have to see everything in one trip, and we don't want to constantly move from place to place. We like to go somewhere and stay there for about 2 weeks at a time- relax, see the sights, soak in the local culture. We take day trips to surrounding areas. We are interested in art, architecture, history, and natural beauty. We aren't interested in bars or clubs or nightlife. We like to wander around, and discover things. We've been to quite a few places in Europe, and a few in Asia, but we've never been to Germany. So we're planning to spend a couple of weeks next year somewhere in Germany. And for some reason, I'm kind of stuck on this decision. Although I have plenty of time, for some reason, I can't seem to decide on a place to go.

Given the above parameters, where do you think we should go? I've kind of narrowed it down to Berlin or Munich. Which of those two places do you think we would enjoy the most, or is there some other place we should consider?
Berlin seems like a big, sprawling, gritty, international city, both pretty and ugly. Lots of things to see, but spread out.

Travelogues about Munich make it seem like a place where you go to drink beer and eat sausage, neither of which interest us. On the other hand, it is much more compact than Berlin, and prettier and more relaxed.

Give me your opinion, please. Berlin, Munich, or someplace else in Germany?

Posted by
8248 posts

We lived in Augsburg, Germany, about 50 miles west of Munich, for four years. We loved Munich, but also we loved Berlin. As a young man, you could have asked me which I liked blondes or brunettes and giving an answer would be difficult.

Both cities are loaded with great sites. Berlin may have more to see than Munich, but Munich is near some wonderful places in Southern Bavaria. Places like Augsburg, Chemise, Berchtesgaden (and Salzburg, Austria), Garmisch/Fussen, and more.

Do some research and pick one and see the other on another trip.

Check this out:
https://www.tripadvisor.com/Attractions-g187309-Activities-Munich_Upper_Bavaria_Bavaria.html
https://www.tripadvisor.com/Attractions-g187323-Activities-Berlin.html

Also, you got to try the bratwurst and sauerkraut as well as a great Bavarian beer.

Posted by
213 posts

I've been to both Berlin and Munich, although I've spent more time in Berlin.

Berlin: Summer language course at the Freie, summer 2004; a four-day research trip, summer 2007; long weekend, November 2009.
Munich: Three days, summer 2004; three days, summer 2010.

I think for the things you want - art, architecture, natural beauty, history - you can't go wrong with either one of them. You note that Berlin big and sprawling - which it is, and if you were only going to one German city for, say, the weekend, I might give Munich the edge. However, as you are planning to spend two weeks in one place, I think you'll find Berlin to be quite manageable. You have time to focus on one section or neighborhood a day, and really get into and explore the city. This is what I did in '04 - after class, I would ride the UBahn into the city and just focus on one or maybe two places at a time. There are also a lot of green spaces in Berlin, at least in my memory. The Tiergarten is beautiful, and on the outskirts you have Schlachtensee and Wannsee. Potsdam would make for a great day-trip. I'd also recommend taking the train down to Dresden, even if just for the day (although spending the night would also be fun). I spent a summer in Dresden and loved it, but it's small/compact enough that you can hit the major sights within a (long) day. I also give Berlin the edge as far as history and museums, although the Pergamon seems to be perpetually closed (I think it was closed when I was there in '04, and my other trips I didn't have time to attempt it).

I think you would also have a fabulous time in Munich. The art museums are wonderful, you can day-trip to the castles or even Salzburg, and the Alpine scenery would be gorgeous.

But - if can only pick one, with your interests and, more importantly, your timeframe - I'd go with Berlin. This is just my personal opinion, but I think you'd get bored with two weeks in Munich, whereas in Berlin, you'd still be discovering places on your last day.

Happy Travels!

PS- I should note that, in all the time I was in Berlin in my twenties, I never once stepped foot into a nightclub. They are certainly there, but I don't want you to think Berlin after-dark is all raves, all the time. There's plenty to do at night that doesn't include glow sticks and house music :-)

Posted by
1678 posts

I've never been to Berlin but two weeks based in Munich would be easy for me. Plenty to see and do in the city and close by, easy to get in and out of: https://www.muenchen.de/int/en/tourism.html

I'd rent an apartment, though I have no information to pass on regarding rental agencies. Cities close by and worth at least a day visit (by public transport): Augsburg, Nuremberg, Ulm. Bamberg and Würzburg a little further afield. I've read good things about Regensburg, Landshut and the spa at Erding.

Landsberg, Murnau and Bad Tolz are all attractive towns, easily reached and at the edge of the alps, with hiking opportunities. Easy train to Garmisch, as noted above. Train to Prien and onto Chiemsee/Schloss Herenchiemsee/Frauenworth Abbey. Ammersee and Stanberger See (cruises and scenery) can be reached easily enough.

Popular, more distant trips, are Füssen and the castles close by, Berchtesgaden, Salzburg, Mittenwald and Innsbruck.

Posted by
4046 posts

My personal scorecard since beginning travel to Germany in 2015: Berlin 40 nights, Munich 3 nights (+5 nights near Berchtesgaden). I'm in my late 40's. I like history, art, architecture, and hiking. Not into bar/club scene, though I did see one of my favorite German bands at Lido a couple of years ago. I don't really see Berlin as "gritty," though there are some areas that are. Munich, of course, has a lot more to offer than beer and sausages. Transportation in both cities is great, so Berlin's "sprawling" factor has never been much of a deal to me.

Art? Both cities have great art museums. Museum Island probably tilts things toward Berlin, though I personally rather like the Berggruen Museum.

Architecture? I would give Berlin a huge advantage. The embassy area is pretty intriguing (e.g., Norway vs Japan). There is a fair amount of Bauhaus architecture to be seen. Comparing the post-WWII architecture of the (Communist) Frankfurter Tor area vs the (West Berlin) Hansaviertel is quite interesting. There is a group of Weimar Era Modernism housing developments that collectively are a UNESCO World Heritage site; I particularly recommend Großsiedlung Siemensstadt; Goebelstraße 2 (how does that street exist?) is the site of an information station, along with the photography office of Christian Fessel, who loves to talk to people who are interested in the buildings. (If perchance you did that, don't miss a quick glance at Siemens headquarters [architecturally interesting in itself for its lack of flash] or the prominently-placed Monument to the Fallen of Siemenswerke, which lists those workers who lost their lives as soldiers in WWI and WWII).

History? Berlin has Prussian, WWII, and a very rich Cold War history. Munich has Bavarian and WWII history (with Nuremberg, Berchtesgaden, and Ludwig II palaces nearby). I have a strong interest in 20th century history. Berlin wins this for me, but I suppose it depends on what you are interested in seeing. One of my coolest travel experiences? Exploring bunkers on a former Soviet base outside Berlin where nuclear warheads were stored (involved a little climbing... and paying off a guy rumored to be associated with the Italian mob).

Natural Beauty? Being a day trip from the Alps utterly crushes anything Berlin has to offer. Berlin has some nice things, though. The Tiergarten is pleasant, especially Luiseninsel, with its flower beds. Britzer Garten is a nice escape from the city -- impressive tulips in late April/early May, rhododendrons in May, roses later in the year. Volkspark Friedrichshain is a pleasant place to walk and watch Berliners be Berliners (has playgrounds, sports facilities, a fairy tale fountain, 2 hills built out of WWII rubble, and a memorial to Polish soldiers and German anti-Fascists). There are other pretty places.

My rank ordering of how I would spend two weeks?

  1. Berlin x 2 weeks
  2. Munich x 1 week + a base elsewhere in Southern Bavaria in the Alps x 1 week
  3. Munich x 2 weeks (I think I would tire of doing day trips to try to fill in a 2-week stay in Munich)
Posted by
365 posts

I have never been to Berlin, but it's next on my list. Germany is a beautiful, beautiful country and I want to see it all.

Having been to Munich twice it sounds to me like that's where you and your wife would have the kind of vacation that you're looking for, especially if you rent a car. Germany has great train service, but it's so drive able and there are so many great places o drive to.

We loved GP for natural beauty, and the Lake Constance are looks equally stunning. You could spend 3-4 days in Munich, then go either south east to Berchtesgaden area and over to the Lake District in Austria, or go south west and do Oberammagau, Fussen and Lake Constance.

https://www.tourism.de/lake-constance/

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=owI1QBHhbS0

Alternatively, you could make it a road trip and drive the alpine route: https://theculturetrip.com/europe/germany/articles/the-ultimate-guide-to-driving-germanys-alpine-route/

Posted by
3009 posts

With 2 weeks time the standard answer would be "and". :-)

Munich is for most pople too small to fill two weeks meaningful. but if you look for the Bavarian picture of Germany you will find it in Munich.

Berlin is the only metropole of Germany with also a lot of interesting day trips around. A lot to explore in the outskirts, over 100 museums, the most opera houses in one city on the planet, a lot of quirky things to explore and also some special places located right in the city but mostly ignored by tourists.

Finally up to you: Both are wonderful cities with their own character - and only 4 hours by train away from each other. Tip: beautiful Bamberg is on he way.

Posted by
4162 posts

A profusion of great advice above , so I'll advance another perspective - These are both great cities , but trying to choose one over the other , is for me , like asking me which of my children do I love more ( Or who is your favorite painter , composer, architect ) ? Since time and money are not an issue , and you are retired ( we are in a similar situation ) , why not add a week to your trip , and spend ten days in each ! You won't be sorry , and as has been noted , the trip between is fast and easy . Fly into one , and out of the other , open jaw .

Posted by
1406 posts

Why don't you fly into one city and fly home from the other? One week in each place should give you plenty of time to hit the highlights and then see another exciting place. I visited Berlin for 3 nights in 2003 and Munich for 3 in 2017. If you need a recommendation for only one I'd say Berlin - it's the country's capital, most important and most historic city.

Posted by
91 posts

Thanks for the great responses, everybody. You have all been very helpful.

Just to reiterate, we want to do slow travel. We want to rent an apartment, shop at the local markets, cook some of our own meals, and yes, see the tourist sites, but also blend in a little. We want to build in time to relax, and just sort of live there if only for a couple of weeks. We did it last year in Florence, and it was great.

So that's what we're really aiming to do. I'm starting to lean towards Munich this time.

Posted by
980 posts

This is a tough choice but I've give Munich a slight edge given your stated interests: "We take day trips to surrounding areas. We are interested in art, architecture, history, and natural beauty. We aren't interested in bars or clubs or nightlife. We like to wander around, and discover things. "

  • I give the edge to Munich for day trips, natural beauty and wandering around. The you can easily reach the Alps, lakes, Austria, and several notable cites (Nuremberg, Regensburg, etc). Also Munich a little more compact compared to Berlin making it easier to wander in my opinion plus the English Garden is tough to beat for a long stroll.
  • I give the edge to Berlin for art and architecture.
  • Its a toss up for history. From Munich you can visit Roman and even prehistory sites (like Hallstatt culture) all the way up to historical sites from the 20th century.

You would do well in either place but if you are leaning towards Munich I would recommend making your home base in Haidhusen. Lehel or Maxvorstadt as you will have slightly better transit connections that in areas to south and west of the city center.

DJ

Posted by
4162 posts

In Munich , the hotel I call home is in Schwabing , a ten minute U Bahn ride to Marienplatz . This site will show you two walking tours ( Schwabing and Bogenhausen ) filled with stunning Jugendstil ( Art Nouveau } Architecture . These places are great eye candy , I am always on the prowl for Art Nouveau , wherever I go , and Munich is at the top of my long list - https://www.annees-de-pelerinage.com/art-nouveau-walking-tour-munich/

Posted by
3050 posts

Personally, I much prefer Berlin. However from what you're saying, I think you should favor Munich. Berlin is a big international city, not particularly "German" although neither is Munich, it's Bavarian. However, Bavaria is what most Americans think of as Germany.

"Living like a local" in Berlin means eating international food, a real urban experience, nothing particularly quaint about it. I think it's one of the world's best cities, but I'm not sure it fills what you're looking for.

However for what you're looking for, perhaps even a smaller city would fit as well. Nurnberg has a great restored historic core and is well situated for many great day trips. Stuttgart gets a bad rap because of it's modern architecture, but it's much more like a collection of towns strung together between hillsides, and it's easy to really "live like a local" here with day trips to the Black Forest, Lake Constance, touring vineyards and eating Germany's best food. Similar arguments could be made for Mainz, even Frankfurt (like Stuttgart has a bad modern reputation but is a great base for trips and has plenty of charm in it's own right), Dresden which is stunning...

You've got time, so what I'm suggesting is that maybe you consider some of the "second cities" as it relates to tourism. .

Posted by
565 posts

Marty, I was hesitant to respond because so many of the responses above are simply superb in the insight offered and the suggestions made. Personally, I would spend a week in each city or region, but I don't share your stated travel preference for spending so much time in one place. And my caveat is that it has been decades since I spent any real time in Munich, though in recent years I was in Salzburg, which I like very much.

If you are looking largely for a big-city trip, Berlin wins easily. The history there is extraordinary, I would not describe it as gritty, and there is an excitement cousing through Berlin that you associate with great cities. There are sights to see outside Berlin. But if you decide to spend two weeks in Berlin, the reason should be that you really want to explore Berlin in depth. If you intend to spend a large amount of your time traveling through the adjacent region, then the appeal of Bavaria and Austria--certainly in terms of natural beauty--is exponentially greater than that of the area around Berlin. If you decide on southern Germany, you may wish to consider Dave's recommendation of a week in Munich and a week in a smaller city nearby.

Good luck. I think your questions have been answered. It is just a matter of sifting though the information offered, weighing different factors and interests, and making decions.