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Berlin History too much?

We have a very brief 2.1/4 days in Berlin. Planning the itinerary includes DDR Museum, German Museum, Topography of Terror, Reichstag and surrounding memorials, Check point Charlie Museum and two tours, a general intro to Berlin and The Third Reich and a river cruise. and somewhere I need to fit in the Berlin Wall Memorial. Normally we do not have such short visits and rather than having leisurely lunches and later afternoon "feets up" this itinerary would require go, go go. I have arranged the visits by proximity to each other and making the best of opening times.
We both enjoy history the most though my husband is more sensitive than I when it comes to viewing and hearing of the atrocities of history. Perhaps as a former teacher of the Holocaust I have developed a stronger tolerance. of all the stories. The itinerary I would enjoy is total focus on the Third Reich and the DDR. My question to those of you that have visited Berlin did you find the information about the Third Reich and DDR overwhelming? Is it just too much to take in in such a short time? Though I have not discussed the itinerary ( I develop it and then hand it off for his input) I know he will suggest there must be lots of repetition. Any thoughts most appreciated.

Posted by
5545 posts

The DDR museum is very well done and actually fun in certain parts, it's not a heavy museum in any way so it may be best suited for the end so as to finish on a lighter note. The Topography of Terror is definitely heavier and does not shy away from the attrocities of WW2. I didn't find it as impactful as visiting a former concentration camp for example but it's certainly not for everyone. I haven't been to the German Museum and the Berlin War Memorial can be visited in as long or short a time as you wish. If you can find time then the Holocaust Memorial is quite sobering.

Your itinerary is very tight, I wouldn't be able to do justice to all the musuems and sights you've listed in the time you have available. I would probably drop the river cruise and Checkpoint Charlie Museum, whilst it's interesting and iconic there's not a great deal to it and the emphasis seems to be centred on making money from souvenirs. Be mindful of the many scam artists and beggars in the vicinity

Posted by
8056 posts

I don't know that I would skip the river cruise. It's a fun and relatively quick way to see Berlin, and you can catch a boat right outside the entrance to the DDR Museum. They only last an hour so it's not a huge time investment and it's fun to do.

I do agree with JC about the Checkpoint Charlie Museum. I did not not go as it looked very touristy and seemed to really push the souvenirs. I also agree that the Topography of Terror is worth a visit (along with the DDR museum). It was certainly heavier than the DDR museum, but not as much as Dachau, for example. It was very thought provoking, and I'm glad that I went. You can see parts of the wall outside the building on your way in.

Posted by
8254 posts

I haven't been to either of these museums, perhaps they didn't exist in 1991 when I left Germany.

I can say that this history should be remembered. I visited Auschwitz in Poland and that death camp was still a bit of a shock, even though I had studied the history very well.
My wife and I had nightmares after our visit. Still, I am glad that I visited.

Posted by
1143 posts

DDR Museum - agree with above, something different, life in East Germany with a lighter point of view (I suspect one could get grim easily, but this museum doesn't)

Checkpoint Charlie - skip, Disney recreation, you can walk down to the general area if interested

Berlin Wall Memorial - agree with above, whatever time you wish to give it, as heavy or not heavy as one wishes to make it. (I was very jet-lagged, I admit my perspective may not be the best.)

German Museum - temporary exhibits now https://www.dhm.de/en/exhibitions/our-exhibitions/ I think re-opens fully sometime in 2025. I visited before the closure - spent 2/3's of a day easily.

This place, Berlin Underworlds Museum, was actually my favorite stop - unique. Various tours of one of the air raid bunkers and across the street, a flak tower. I took the Tour 1 - Dark Worlds. It is a bit out of the way compared with other sites you are considering, but easily reached by public transport or taxi. I'm not sure why the site doesn't get more attention.
https://www.berliner-unterwelten.de/en/the-association/projects/the-berlin-underworlds-museum.html

Posted by
283 posts

The Topography of Terror was definitely a heavy experience. It was a vivid account. There was a lot of reading-the exhibit is on a series of placards in a large room. I believe there were also some audio/visual things. All this to say that a more sensitive visitor could skim through and get a general idea. And someone who wanted to read all of the details could spend more time. We got the audio guide and found it helpful/less reading.

I agree with others that the DDR is lighter. It was interesting to see how everyday people lived through those times.

We also took the English guided tour of the Reichtag and found it enjoyable. Even if you don’t do the guided tour, the dome walk is worth the time.

To see many of the big memorials and sites, we used Rick’s Berlin audio walking tour which is on his app.

Posted by
1143 posts

Forgot - Reichstag tour is well done. Or, if time is a factor, just do the dome. (as suggested above!)

Be sure to check the requirements for booking. I don't know currently, but in the past, you needed to have a reservation including passport number. There were long lines of those who hadn't booked, but hoped to get in. Many didn't. Reservation lines went very smoothly.

Posted by
4046 posts

Sights are cool. People are cooler. I think you would find a private tour with Robert Sommer very enlightening. He was the 15-year-old punk-rocker son of a high-ranking DDR bureaucrat the night the Berlin Wall fell. He can tell you about growing up in the DDR, and he can tell you about what happened in his DDR bureaucrat home the night the wall fell (and over the next few days). A tour with Robert gives the intellectually curious traveler a chance to get something far, far richer than the victor's perspective on the DDR.

Robert can also tell you about living as a squatter in post-unification Berlin, too. WWII history? He ended up getting a PhD in history with a thesis dealing with prostitution in concentration camps, so he knows that, too. I know your schedule is tight, but consider him for a half-day tour perhaps to include or to end at one of the places you want to visit.

Here is a list of tours on his website: http://thetrueberliner.com/tours. BUT he can adapt to anything you want. Heck, he's taken me into former Soviet bunkers outside Berlin that held nuclear warheads during the Cold War.

Posted by
1038 posts

I’m fresh off 4 nights in Berlin and visited a number of these sights. Maybe what I decided to skip can tell you something too.

The German History Museum is closed (for a good while I believe) for renovations.

I largely skipped through the Topography of Terror just because I knew right away I didn’t have the energy for it. The content can be difficult naturally, but it is also very content-heavy. It’s all photos and reading. Just from a sightseeing perspective, on such a short visit I would give this a pass because it’s both a physical and psychological brick.

The Reichstag dome was cool, but I’m not so sure it’s a must either. A good chunk of the dome is a guide to the Berlin skyline, which (as in my case) can suffer in poor weather. Still, if you can book a favorable time slot, it’s a good starting point to see the surrounding memorials.

The Museum of the Wall and memorial were very good. I think the development of the Wall and its geography within the city can be a tough thing to get a grasp of, and they explain this very effectively. There’s also a DDR museum nearby in Prenzlauer Berg, a few minutes on the M10 tram located within the Kulturbrauerei. I thought this was terrific, and makes a nice complement to the Wall Museum. If you’re staying in Prenzlauer Berg, seeing these is super easy.

You mention some tours, and I think it’s a good idea on your tight schedule. Dr. Robert Sommer was highly recommended on this site: [email protected]. Unfortunately, we just couldn’t get our schedules together. But If you can arrange it, I think he’d be a great fit for you. He’s very interested in tailoring a tour to your interests, and I thought his price was very reasonable given the personal attention on offer. I get the feeling he’d connect a lot of these threads for you, and give you recommendations besides.

Posted by
2049 posts

Bundestag tour if you can. The dome is great but you can also get a tour of the building and see the Russian graffiti left over or redone after the war.

Sadly, Checkpoint Charlie was pretty much a dud. Everything is fake and after taking pictures in front of it, that's pretty much all there is.
I would suggest a walking tour. We took the Berlin Walks 3.5 hr Discover Tour and learned a lot about the history and got to see all the Nazi attractions.

Posted by
334 posts

Visiting the Reichstag Dome is a bit of a production but well worth it. We’re currently in Berlin for 10 days and went to the Reichstag Dome at sunset tonight. An advance online registration/reservation is required even for an independent visit. We registered several weeks ago to get our preferred sunset time. We were asked to provide our names and birthdates to be cleared for the visit. I think maybe a day later we received a confirmation email. Tonight, we arrived ½ an hour early for the check in and presented our passports before going through airport type security. We then waited in a holding area and were escorted as a group up to the elevator to the dome. We spent an hour in the dome as the sunset and the lights of the city came on.

My husband is the one who can stomach the heavy WW2 history and Soviet occupation stuff. I lived in Germany for three years and visited Berlin at the end of the Cold War. Many of the historical sites are too much for me so my husband and I split up. While he was at the Topography of Terror, I opted for a nice walk.

I’m very careful to have palate cleansing options to fall back on when the history feels overwhelming. On a past visit, I really enjoyed our 1 hour Spree boat tour. It was a nice orientation to the city and a good mood lifter. The pretty Monets at the Alte Nationalgalerie helped me reset on Saturday morning. And there are lots of very nice walks.

Posted by
14988 posts

No, re: too much Berlin history and all that horrific Nazi history.

I came to Berlin the very first time in 1971 with the aim of seeing these sites pertaining to the war (military aspects) and also Nazi history and I've been do that ever since in Berlin, tracking down and discovering sites pertaining to this history as well other sites connected with Prussian-German history.

See more of the eastern districts of Berlin, ie east of Mitte.

On Nazi history aside those sites already mentioned: The one site you'll be struck by the horror of it all is the Gedenkstätte Ploetzensee .

Posted by
7900 posts

keep in mind:
The Jewish Museum (although not a big architectural success)
The Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe
Stolpersteine
Neue Synagogue

In nearby (S-Bahn & taxi) Mahlsdorf, time consuming but rewarding site of Pulitzer prize winning play, I Am My Own Wife,
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/I_Am_My_Own_Wife
and a superb museum of the Grunderzeit, and a real Weimar bar and, er ... professional woman's garret room.

Advance tickets needed for Reichstag, hard to get, passport needed day of use.

I find the Berlin Wall remnants a misleading artifact of a tough time.

Posted by
3080 posts

I really enjoyed the Bundestag/Reichstag tour: then and now history, the government structure lesson. Where else are you going to see Russian graffiti from WW2? Tours fill fast so sign up as soon as your date opens. Since these are government offices and parliament, I think they do a background check before issuing tickets. It takes several weeks to get tickets after you apply.

The most upsetting for me was the Topography of Terror. I thought I knew what to expect from a Nazi history lesson. I had to leave. If you believe that history repeats itself, the parallels between then and now were more than I want to envision. Dachau was not as upsetting to me.

The Book Burning Memorial at Bebelplatz is worth a visit to reflect on censorship.

Skip Checkpoint Charlie. It’s now a photo op, not the menacing border crossing between West and East Berlin that I saw in 1969.

Berlin transportation is easy to use; trams in former East Berlin, buses in former West Berlin. Buy a pass for quick access to both plus the subway from the BGV app. Your choice is 1-day or 7-days, so you probably want to buy the 1-day pass each day.; easier than individual tickets.

PS: Currywurst is awful. Hot dog smothered in curry powder flavored catsup. Best I can say is I tried one.

Posted by
2734 posts

I echo the suggestion to do the full Bundestag tour (including the dome). You don't say when you are going, but advance reservations for this are required and sometimes things are closed due to parliament being in session. So you may have this option ruled out just by virtue of schedule (and as noted above, the security process to get in to the building).

One smaller memorial that I found very moving was the Palace of Tears (Tränenpalast) a border crossing station. Topography of Terror was too heavy for me and I left before making it all the way through.

Posted by
14988 posts

There is another site where Russian graffiti from WW2 and their subsequent occupation of Berlin can be readily seen. That is in Berlin-Krampnitz, now ruins but was intact in 1945. It was a tank site.

I agree with dropping Checkpoint charlie...not worth it given your short stay. Since the German History Museum is closed, how about the history museum in Berlin-Karlshorst, showing the horrors of the Russo-German War after Hitler broke the Nazi-Soviet pact.

There is obviously more history in , ( ie, The Resistance Museum) and around Berlin on this period, eg, Seelow, Neuhardenberg, and Halbe ...the next trip?

Posted by
28128 posts

I believe the folks telling you there's nothing much at Checkpoint Charlie have not been to the Mauermuseum, Museum Haus am Checkpoint Charlie, which focuses on escape attempts. I found it very interesting in 2015.

https://www.mauermuseum.de/en/exhibition/

That said, I fear you are already overcommitted, time-wise.

Posted by
14988 posts

This summer I finally made a concerted effort to explore the area around Berlin Ostbahnhof, having stayed there a couple of times but never really explored it at all. Plus, I was looking for that restaurant which had reviews telling prospective US guests not to go there due to its rudeness, anti-American "atmosphere" and all that. Exactly a place to check out.

Opposite to Berlin Ostbahnhof's main entrance is an open field with an exhibition of the Wall, its art and poetry, mostly in German but some of it in English too. Obviously, revealing.

Posted by
377 posts

What great answers, thank you all. You helped me make a few decisions.

Posted by
9224 posts

I am an historian and Berlin never has too much history for me. I easily spent 6 hours in the Historical museum. Because I already knew so much of what was presented at the Topography of Terror and had seen the same photos multiple times, I didn't stay here long. I found the museum under the large Holocaust memorial to be very well done.
Doing some tours will show you many of the sites on your list in an efficient way. It is what I do every time I go to Berlin. In addition, a visit to Track 17 and the Olympic stadium were very meaningful.

Posted by
2049 posts

Last year, I bought tickets to a tour of a WW2 air raid shelter in Berlin. While some of the reviewers were disappointed by the bunker, I thought seeing the actually air raid bunker rooms and listening to the stories of the "enemy" on the Homefront was worth it. I would highly recommend this tour. The most interesting thing I learned is that any hill you see in Berlin was made from the left over rubble from buildings as Berlin itself is flat.

Dark Worlds- Berliner Unterwelten was the name of the tour.

https://www.berliner-unterwelten.de/en/guided-tours/public-tours/dark-worlds.html

Posted by
1167 posts

The last thing you need is more historical museum recommendations, but my wife and I probably enjoyed the Spionage Museum as much as any of the others. It's a hoot, and surprisingly scholarly.