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Bavaria/Austria Trip Advice

Greetings. I will be traveling to Munich with my wife and 8 yr. old daughter in late June and am torn on where to visit and lodge. We fly in to Munich on a Tuesday afternoon and fly out on Sunday evening. We certainly want to see some of Austria, and don't want to spend all our time checking in/out of lodging. I thought we would use Munich as a base and only travel to Salzburg in Austria, as Vienna seems too far (unfortunately). The town of Berchtesgaden and nearby(Konigssee/national park/Eagle’s Nest) near Salzburg also looks nice, but not sure how to fit that in without staying overnight. My wife would like to see a lot of old Germany and (hopefully)castles along the towns of the "romantic road". Upon a bit of research, I found that the romantic road is a long car rental ride from Munich, and it seems the towns along the way are what is interesting, not the actual drive. Rothenburg (and Heidelberg) seem wonderful, but they are quite far from Munich. However, I also read that there are old/medieval towns near Munich, like Mittenwald for example. I'd like to spend as little time as possible getting from one sight to the other. I also have read a lot about Fussen and the palaces there, but am conflicted because many say they are swamped with tourists, not really castles, and eat up a lot of time. Additionally, we have an 8 yr. old, so we need to do things she will like. She is quite social, so I was thinking of places where other children congregate at least one day, like a park in Munich, or a children or science museum in Munich. I know those choices exist, so we will certainly explore Munich at least one day - maybe on our last day in town before the flight. My wife and I both enjoy culture and history to a large degree, and also enjoy the outdoors. Additionally, my father's side of the family has been in the USA since the mid eighteenth century, and I have never visited Germany, which is where my father's ancestors are from. At this time I have not pinpointed the area where my family is from, although southern Germany seems to be accurate.

My core questions are: Do we really need to venture out on the Romantic Road? Should we stay overnight in Salzburg (and explore Berchtesgaden(rent car?) , or is a day trip enough from Munich? Should we go to Fussen area? Should we go to Rothenburg? Do we need to rent a car? And really, what is a good itinerary for each day?

The option I am leaning towards is to see Munich first day, visit Berchtesgaden and Salzburg next two days, and see castles in nearby towns to Munich last 1.5 days, hopefully using Munich as base. I would not be opposed to using another city as a base, but since we are flying in/out Munich and Munich is a hub for transportation, seems most practical. Your suggestions are appreciated. Thank you.

Posted by
21163 posts

Think about Nuremberg. It is a good transport base using the VGN network to visit towns like Rothenburg, Bamberg, and Dinkelsbuehl (by bus from Ansbach), as well as a beautiful old (rebuilt after WW II bombing) city in its own right.
Munich would be a good base to visit Salzburg, Fuessen (Neuschwanstein), and Berchtisgaden. You can travel everyday, all day, on a Bayern Ticket for 28 euro a day after 9 am. Your daughter travels free. Saturday and Sunday its good all day (no 9 am limit).

Posted by
1389 posts

That's a lot of travel in like 5 days. Think you need to narrow your expectations. Even with the best conditions there are Staus on the Autobahn. Maybe just stay in the Berchtesgaden area relax, and visit Salzburg with a trip to the Chiemsee? You cold venture to the Fussen area, but think Rothenburg and Heidelberg are a bit too much.

Posted by
12040 posts

"I also read that there are old/medieval towns near Munich, like Mittenwald for example."

There are old, well-preserved towns everywhere in Germany, but the historical building styles vary depending on the region, even within Bavaria alone. The preserved towns in northern Bavaria (like Rothenburg odT) are more similar to others in the bordering states of Hessen, Thüringen and Saxony than central and southern Bavaria. A lot of Fachwerk... if I'm not mistaken, that picture is of Miltenburg, in far NW Bavaria near Frankfurt. You see very little of this style in central and southern Bavaria, where this brightly painted style tends to predominate. I don't know what the proper term is, but I call it "Austrio-Bavarian Baroque" for lack of a better description. Then, in the Alps and Alpine hinterland, you find an abundance of chalets, often with elaborately carved woodwork and brightly painted frescoes.

So, with not much time, pick which style you want and go for it. As long as you're OK with not seeing Fachwerk, I think concentrating on southern Bavaria would make a better use of your time. Pick one destination outside of Munich and use it as a base. Could be Salzburg, Berchtesgaden, Rosenheim, Oberstdorf, Mittenwald, Garmisch-Partenkirchen or others. The Romantic Road towns are nice, but not indispensible. And not even all that unique for the larger region of central Germany. You can find plenty of kids in any of these towns (well, somewhat less so in Oberstdorf. I don't know why, but it always seems to be an older crowd there).

Posted by
980 posts

When we lived in Munich we hosted several friends and family that came for short trips so I'll try and address your core questions based on what I've seen:

Do we really need to venture out on the Romantic Road?

With only 4 full days and arriving and departing from Munich I'd say no here. The "Romantic Road" is just a tourist promotion from the 1950s (I think it's funny the sign posts are in German and Japanese so it tells you who they cater to). Yes, the towns can be charming but you can find charm in any region you will be traveling through so don't be hung up on driving the route.

Should we stay overnight in Salzburg (and explore Berchtesgaden(rent car?) , or is a day trip enough from Munich?

Salzburg can be visited as a day trip from Munich by train (use a Bayern Ticket). Berchtesgaden can also be done as a day trip but I'd recommend renting a car. Trying to do both in the same day will be a day spent mostly in a car, not recommended.

Should we go to Fussen area?

Yes, and it can be done as a day trip with a rental car. My bet is that an 8 year old would enjoy seeing the castles over a well preserved town.

Should we go to Rothenburg?

If you are already planning on going to Salzburg and Füßen I would not recommend squeezing Rothenburg in with a 5 day trip. An 8 year old girl will

Do we need to rent a car?

No, you don't need to rent a car but it will make traveling to some of the destinations you suggest easier. If you do rent a car I recommend renting one in the city to avoid the airport surcharge. I personally use Sixt in Munich.

And really, what is a good itinerary for each day?

Here is a sample itinerary we gave our guests who visited with children aged 6-10 (pared down for 4 days/5 nights):
Day 1 Tues - Arrival and fight jet lag
Relax and freshen up a bit. Get outside and do a quick tour of down town (fresh air will help you stay awake).
Marianplatz (Altstad, etc)
Frauenkirche
St. Peterskirche
Hofbrauhaus for meal
Asamkirche
Sendlingor Tor

Day 2 Wed
Continue on with sightseeing in Munich. I would recommend the Residenz in the morning and either the English Gardens or Nymphenburg Palace in the afternoon. If the weather is bad the BMW or Deutsches Museum in the afternoon.

Day 3 Thursday
Take the train from Munich to Salzburg for a sightseeing day trip
See the Cathedral, Castle, old town, etc
Back to Munich in the evening

Day 4 Friday
Check out of Munich hotel. Rent a car and drive to Füssen stopping at charming towns along the way and the Wieskirche. If the weather is nice go for a walk in the countryside or hills near the Weiskirche or Füßen. Spend the night in Füßen or Ruette.

Day 5 Saturday
Wake up and tour Hohenschwangau & Neuschwanstein Castles (book tickets ahead of time!) then depending on weather or your schedule stay another day in Füßen area (hiking, explore the town, or just relax).

Day 6 Sunday - Departure
Not sure how much time you will have to do much sight seeing. If you are still in Füßen area taking it easy on the way back is your best bet.

Hope that helps.

Posted by
16895 posts

I don't think an 8-year old will care about the distinction between a fortified castle and a more modern palace. Both are very interesting. For instance, I don't think she needs to know much about Wagner operas to enjoy Neuschwanstein's colorful mural paintings of those stories.

Posted by
11 posts

Thank you so much for your insightful comments. I am very grateful for your help. With all the information I have come up with a plan, but have a few follow-up questions. We are going to stay near Berchtesgaden at Ramsau bei Berchtesgaden, and it seems like I’ll certainly need a car since we may stop at Herrenchiemsee Palace, and will need to drive in/out of Ramsau bei Berchtesgaden, etc. We will drive straight from Munich airport to Ramsau bei Berchtesgaden on Tuesday afternoon, stay for 3 nights, visiting Salzburg, Berchtesgaden area first two days, and third day(Friday) drive back to Munich, possibly stopping at Herrenchiemsee Palace. This leaves us with all day Saturday and part of the day Sunday to explore Munich, and then fly out. One variation would be to drive the Alpine Road to Fussen on Friday and see Hohenschwangau and/or Neuschwanstein (or Linderhof). This looks like a bit more driving, but I read the Alpine Road is not a typically difficult mountain road to drive, and is quite beautiful (and this will get us to Ludwig's palaces). Regardless of the route we take back to Munich, we still would want to get there on Friday evening. So in one day we may drive from Berchtesgaden to Fussen area to see one or more of Ludwig’s palaces, then drive back to Munich. Is this feasible?

Side question; I assume biking/mountain biking is good in Berchtesgaden. Can anybody recommend a good rental place in Berchtesgaden area? I was hoping to find one that would drop off and also carry kid’s bikes. I’ll also ask the proprietors of www.mayringerlehen.de , but figured I’d ask this group to see if anybody has biked here. I am an avid cyclist and will be renting a road bike on the second part of our trip in Provence, but thought mountain biking or hiking would be wonderful in Berchtesgaden.

As far as Munich; since we will be pressed for time, can anybody recommend a good economical residence ($150/night max) and/or area of the city to stay that is close to sights and might also entertain kids in some fashion (or be close to kid-centric attractions)? This also leads to the car rental question I had. Seems rentals are more expensive from airport, and I’m also not sure if a car rental the last few days in Munich would be worthwhile because of potential parking issues. Therefore, I’m trying to figure out if, on the day we fly in to Munich, should we rent a car from airport and return there either on Friday or on Sunday when we fly out? Or, should we try to rent one close to where we will be staying on Friday/Saturday nights and also return it there and then find other transport to airport. Quite the conundrum. ;-)

Finally, my favorite architecture is the German fachwerk. Any knowledge of it near Munich or the route we will be traveling? Was about to give that up and realize now it is more in northern Bavaria, but thought to ask. Thanks again!

Posted by
12040 posts

"Finally, my favorite architecture is the German fachwerk. Any knowledge of it near Munich or the route we will be traveling?"

I'm thinking hard over this one, and I really can't remember any examples along your route. You'd have to drive about two hours west deep into Swabia or the same distance north to Franconia or the Oberpfaltz regions to see much of it. It just isn't native to southern Bavaria.

Posted by
1221 posts

Berchtesgaden/Konigsee is a really easy day trip from Salzburg, and you get more lodging options if you base out of Austria. Just make sure your rental car has the Austrian 'vignette' expressway sticker- available at every single gas station in the region for a token amount for the ten day version- because the Austrian cops do sometimes set up a checkpoint looking for them at the turnoff toward Berchtesgaden from Salzburg.