The usual Middle Rhine Valley towns between Bingen and Koblenz - Bacharach, Ruedesheim, St Goar, Boppard, etc. - have made for good stays in the past, but for this visit I felt an urge to spend my 4 nights in some lesser-known places. I landed slightly randomly on Hirzenach and Bad Salzig, both with train stations on the west-bank railway that is shared by Boppard, St. Goar and Bacharach. These two villages are located in between Boppard and St. Goar - see map:
https://www.seat61.com/images/rhine-train-map-detail.jpg
That's right, Bad Salzig and Hirzenach aren't shown, but they're there, and if you've used this famous Rhine railway before, you probably didn't notice them at all, since you were likely checking out the great river scenery on the other side of the train.
Bad Salzig is just a few train minutes upstream from Boppard. Hirzenach is just a few train minutes further upstream from Boppard. And just upstream a few train minutes from Hirzenach is St. Goar. The situation roughly resembles Italy's Cinque Terre towns. Here you can easily walk or bike along the river between these towns, but the hourly train service that serves them is extremely convenient. I had a GREAT 4 days here.
Bad Salzig and Hirzenach have both been incorporated into the municipality of Boppard despite their geographic separation. One clear advantage of this for the traveler is that Boppard's free Guest Ticket (which allows for free rail/bus travel locally and certain discounts) is issued automatically to anyone who books accommodations not just in Boppard proper but also in Bad Salzig and/or Hirzenach. My goal in the area was to get in some nice walks in some new places and take outings by train. Both towns have a couple of places to eat, but I chose to do my p.m. dining in Boppard, Koblenz and St Goar.
So... using booking.com I picked accommodations with riverfront situations that are near the train stations and promised views of the river...
Bad Salzig: Hotel Die Perle am Rhein, homepage under construction:
https://www.perle-am-rhein.com/
Nutshell review: 10/10 Small but very attractive, recently updated and spotless single room/bath with good bed, wardrobe, TV, balcony, small desk w/chair, coffee maker w/capsule and great views across river. Family-owned and operated across generations. Very friendly and professional owner/manager. Traditional German feel to the entire facility. Fantastic breakfast/dining room, also with great views to the river and handsomely decorated. Breakfast was very good - great basket of Brötchen + deli items, with hot bevs of choice, juice, yogurt, eggs, muesli available on request. (I took no other meals there.) €80/night incl. breakfast.
And my digs in Hirzenach: Pension Röhrig
https://pension-roehrig.de/english/sightsee.shtml
Nutshell review: 8/10 Older facility in building with a medical practice on the ground floor. Very friendly and attentive owner/manager (Esther) who speaks excellent English. Booked a double room for single use upstairs without breakfast (available for additional charge, but I was not interested.) Monstrous bed, desk + office chair, older easy chair, wardrobe, TV, large-ish window with an amazing view of the river. Sound-proofing windows keep out noise from trains, cars, boats. Room has a dated feel, but was clean and serviceable. Slept well. Private, recently remodeled bathroom was spotless and also has a big window (with roll-down privacy blind of course.) KITCHEN is in hall just across from room... cooktop, coffee maker, toaster, microwave and two mini-fridges + cookware, cups, plates, etc. are all for shared use by all guests. Big table with chairs. This is an old-feeling kitchen, ok for storing sandwich supplies and making coffee but not to sit for a meal IMO. Would stay here again without hesitation though. €62/night w/o breakfast.