Hi Everyone - I am deployed in Afghanistan and just begginning my plans for an R&R trip (I need it!!) to Europe in April 2015, and would welcome your suggestions for an itinerary. I'm thinking Germany, Czech Republic, and mountain hiking as my highlighted goals. I'm a single female traveling alone (and enjoying the heck out it!). I have not locked anything into place as yet - the only fixed destination I might have is a retreat I hope to attend on 24-26 Apr in the Black Forest area. I also would love to hike in the high mountains and stay at the huts along the way, or if that is too ambitious (or too early in the year) just some good mountain hiking anywhere with fresh air (can't do any of that in Afghanistan - I miss it!!). Want to take in lots of castles and medieval/renaissance history, and cultural events like flea markets or festivals. I want to visit Prague and Cz Rep as my father's side of the family is from a town called Louny - anyone heard of that? I prefer to stay in one place for several days and do day trips. Am wondering about trains/buses vs renting a car - am open to either - I do love the freedom of a car, but not if it's a hassle to drive/park in cities, or worry about theft and insurance, so am leaning more toward trains/buses. I would appreciate any suggestions from you all - thanks very much!
Peggy
I know Louny. The town is preserved and quite nice, but nothing special... apart from the main church and some fortifications. Could be a nice day trip from Prague. Don't forget to visit the cemetery, with some luck you can still find some distant relatives (less likely if they were Germans though). The area is historically quite interesting, since Louny borders on the Sudetenland, the former German settlement area in Bohemia, which was highly significant for the history of the 20th century. I think Louny was mostly Czech, but the next village, Postoloprty, was German. That's where the biggest massacre of the 20th century in Czechoslovakia happened (and not in Lidice). But it's no place of remembrance like Lidice, and visiting the village only makes sense if your family was affected by this episode. If you want to see more of this area better see Litomerice or Zatec, which are both pleasant, preserved towns. Close to Litomerice is also Theresienstadt.
April/early May is too early to hike in the Alps. That's the bad news. The good news is that one of Europes best hiking regions isn't far away from Prague and Louny. If you take the train from Prague to Dresden you cross spectacular Bohemian and Saxon Switzerland, where hiking looks like this, this, this or this, and views like this, this, this or this. You can take these nostalgic paddle steamers to see this, this or this. To see this, this, this or this you would need a car. This area really offers everything from mountains and vineyards to castles, palaces, museums,cute town and villages.
PS: here is a site with hundreds(?) of hiking tours in Saxon and Bohemian Switzerland: click me.
As Martin mentioned, April is too early for hiking in the Alps. But southern and central Germany is criss-crossed by many other low mountain ranges. You can hike in most of these in April (perhaps not the high peaks of the Black Forest either). Come up with a rough itinerary and I can probably recommend some regions where you can hike along the way.
I am not a big fan of staying at Military Hotels and more military contact on R&R may be the last thing you are looking for, but you are aware of the Edelweiss Lodge and Resort in Garmisch-Partenkirchen? They have many day trips etc. and Garmisch is a great location. You could hike the valleys and go up to the top of the Zugspitze on a clear day. They probably have trips to Salzburg and the King Ludwig II Palaces too. You might want to check the Army Grafenwoehr MWR for trips to Prage, Pilsen etc. Louny looks to be northeast or Prage toward the German boarder. You might consider checking out the old East area of Germany like the town of Oberwiesenthal in the Ore Mountains. This is off the beaten path, but could be nice for a day or two with some hiking and then up to Dresden and/or back to the southeast, Bamberg, Bayrteuth, Nuremberg etc.
http://www.edelweisslodgeandresort.com/
"love to hike in the high mountains... lots of castles and medieval/renaissance history, and cultural events like flea markets or festivals... stay in one place for several days and do day trips... stay at the huts along the way, "
Except for the high mountains part, the Middle Rhine Valley should be on your list. There are 40 castles on 40 miles of river between Bingen and Koblenz. Trails with aggressive profiles on both sides of the mighty Rhine get you from village to village through forest, vineyard, and pasture and offer a good supply of hostels and inexpensive B&B's.
The Rhine Castle Trail (Rheinburgenweg) covers the "left" (west) side of the river for 200 km.
The Rheinsteig Trail graces the right side of the river.
Trains connect nearly all the towns and villages along the riverbank too. Ferries get you across the river at strategic points. So no need to carry your stuff with you the whole way...a base town strategy is very doable here. You can bike the area too - and take your bike on the trains, which offer bike cars: PHOTO
The Klettersteig near Boppard is popular with the sure-of-foot: PHOTO
Marksburg in Braubach and Rheinfels in St. Goar are popular destinations.
There are places like the Weinmuseum in St. Goarshausen's old town tower where you can stop in and taste local wines.
No huts I am aware of. Hostels in Kaub, Bingen, Bacharach (castle-hostel,) Rüdesheim, Koblenz, Oberwesel, and St. Goar (but currently under renovation.) Or try an apartment like this one where I stayed recently in St. Goar - free bicycle use there too - for €30/night:
Appartement Geissler
Festival: April 30 is Wine Witch Night (Weinhexennacht) in Oberwesel: the townfolk burn a straw wine witch and crown a new wine queen to usher the old wine season out and bring the new one in. PHOTO
There's a parade and music, and lots of wine and fireworks: PHOTO
Cologne isn't far if you want to visit Germany's most impressive Gothic cathedral and take in a few museums.
Car is not a necessity in Germany or Czech Republic. Very good connection by train or bus practically everywhere. While in Prague you can see 3 big castles: Karlstejn, Krivoklat, Konopiste. Easy day trips from Prague. Beautiful hiking around Krivoklat. Unfortunately no hiking in high mountains in April (maybe cross-country skiing :-) . Louny is only about 1 hour from Prague by bus. Together with Zatec (which is also in Louny county) are famous for its hops. There is some hiking around Louny in Nature Reserve Ceske stredohori (Bohemian Middle Uplands). There are some less known castles and ruins there. Visitor Center in Louny is a good place for information. You will find a lot of information on this website:
http://www.louny.eu/en//1/ . For bus connection in C.R.: http://jizdnirady.idnes.cz/autobusy/spojeni/ . From Prague to Louny it's about 2 to 3 hours by train with one change. Bus is faster.